isfactory results. Only sound, mature fruit should be used. If fresh fruit cannot be obtained, canned and preserved fruits may be used to good advantage. To obtain the best results in the use of canned, dried or preserved fruit it is very important that fruit of good quality be selected, because the drying and preserving alters the natural fruit somewhat. This is particularly noticeable in the lower and cheaper grades of fruit.

The fruit flavors most frequently called for are orange, lemon, raspberry, apricot, cherry, pineapple and strawberry. Orange and lemon flavor may be obtained in the form of an extract, but for ices and in making the finest quality of ice cream, the flavor should be obtained directly from the fruit.

Orange. Owing to its pleasant, mildly acid flavor, orange juice is used in a great many formulas for ices and sherbets, as it blends nicely with almost any fruit flavor. In preparing the orange juice, unless it is used in orange sherbet or ice, the fruit must be peeled to prevent any of the essential oil which is in the rind from getting into the juice.

Lemon flavor is not used so extensively in ice cream as in water ices and sherbets. In the ice cream trade both the juice and the extract are employed. The fruit juice is used not only to produce a lemon flavor but to supply the desired fruit acid and to modify the flavor of other fruits. The best lemons to select are the large, smooth ones with thin rinds. They should be stored in a cool, dry place until used. A very fine lemon flavor may be obtained by grating the outer part of the rinds of several lemons and mixing with the sugar. In fact, in many formulas where lemon juice is added solely to increase the acidity, the lemons must be carefully pared before being squeezed to prevent any of the essential oil from getting into the mixture, as it will

impart a distinct lemon flavor when it is not desired. The inner white rind as well as the outer rind must be removed and the lemons cut in halves and all the seeds removed before the fruit is pressed. Strain the juice before using.

The other fruit flavors, except pineapple and strawberry, are less frequently used. Many of these are most popular when the fresh fruits are in season. Since the desired flavor is easily obtained from the fresh fruit no great difficulty is encountered in supplying the demand for fruit ice creams. Canned or preserved fruits, however, may be used with very satisfactory results, especially for the pineapple and strawberry ice creams.

Pineapple flavor. It is impossible to prepare an extract of pineapple from the fruit; hence, the extracts of that flavor. are always synthetic products. The flavor of this fruit, however, is sufficiently pronounced that a good pineapple flavor may be imparted to ice creams and ices from the fruit alone and without the addition of extracts. If fresh fruits are used, care should be taken to select mature, well-ripened fruit. The fruit should be pared and the cores removed before the pulp is mashed and strained. Only as much fruit as can be used at once should be prepared at a time. Canned pineapples may be obtained from any supply house dealing in ice cream flavors and supplies. The high grade canned fruit is of excellent flavor and gives very good results as a flavoring for ice creams and ices.

Strawberry flavor. This flavor, like the pineapple, is best obtained by using the fruit. Select well ripened fruit of good color. Clean them carefully and discard all poor berries. They should then be crushed and strained through a fine wire strainer. Add a little sugar to the crushed fruit and mix thoroughly. Even when fresh fruit is used it is

sometimes desirable to add a small quantity of good strawberry extract to bring out the flavor and enough fruit red color to give a light pink color to the cream.

Many factories put up their own strawberries during the season of the year when berries are cheap. The berries are cleaned, crushed, and mixed with an equal part of cane sugar. The fruit thus prepared will keep well if stored in a cool place. If the factory does not have a cold storage room for supplies of this kind, it will be necessary to pasteurize the fruit after the sugar is added. The fruit is usually stored in barrels until needed. The flavor of the strawberries prepared in this way is nearly equal to that of the fresh fruit.

When fresh strawberries can not be obtained it will be necessary to use preserved fruits. In such cases an extract should also be used to bring out a good strawberry flavor. Lemon juice should also be used to increase the acidity and give a fresh fruit flavor.

Other fruit flavors such as raspberry, peach, apricot and cherry are very mild and it may be necessary to strengthen the flavor by using an artificial flavoring substance. When canned fruit is used, fruit acid must be supplied by the addition of lemon juice.

Fruit extracts. There are some flavors that cannot be obtained in extract form except as artificial or synthetic products. Most fruit flavors belong to this class. These artificial flavors correspond very nearly to the genuine flavor which is in most cases due to a class of chemical bodies known as esters or ethers,1 which are produced in the growth of the plant. These same substances may be obtained from other sources, such as the higher alcohols, 1" Year Book of U. S. Department of Agriculture, 1908."

and are used in the production of synthetic or artificial flavors. The synthetic flavors are usually colored with coal tar products and, according to the Federal and some State laws, must be labeled "Imitation" or "Artificial."

The extract flavors. Lemon, orange and vanilla are the most important of the extract flavors. There are some others, however, such as mint, wintergreen and certain nut

flavors which are sometimes used in extract form. According to the standards adopted by the Department of Agriculture, a flavoring extract "is a solution, in ethyl alcohol of proper strength, of the sapid and odorous principles derived from an aromatic plant or parts of the plant, with or without its coloring matter, and conforms in name to the plant used in its preparation." This definition at

once excludes all preparations which are not solutions in alcohol and eliminates the various forms of prepared flavored sugars used abroad.

Lemon and orange extracts are used only to a very limited extent in the manufacture of ice creams, largely because the flavor is easily obtained from the fresh fruit. These extracts are made from the essential oil derived from the rind of the fruit.

High grade extracts are made by dissolving this oil in strong alcohol. The alcoholic solution is filtered and is then ready for use. The alcohol is the most costly constituent of such an extract because it requires a very strong alcohol to hold five per cent. of the oil in solution.

Low grade extracts are made by repeatedly shaking the oil with dilute alcohol. These extracts have the odor of the higher extracts but the flavor will cook or freeze out quite easily. Citronella and lemon grass citral are sometimes used to strengthen the flavor, and glycerin, sugar, and other substances are added to improve the body of these cheaper extracts.2

Terpenless extract. The cost of producing lemon or orange extract may be reduced considerably by producing. terpenless extract. This is accomplished by making a solution of the oil in alcohol and then diluting the solution. The oil separates out and may be removed. Another method is to wash the lemon or orange oil with dilute alcohol. By either of these methods the citral, which is the principal flavoring substance of the oil, is removed, the terpenes remaining undissolved.

Peppermint and wintergreen are sometimes used either as the principal flavoring agent or to modify some other 2" Year Book of U. S. Department of Agriculture, 1908."