CHAP. XIX.

ATHENS, B. C. 460.

HERODOTUS LANDS AT THE PIRÆUS. —ATHENIAN WIT.-A BARBER'S SHOP. -WALK TO ATHENS.FIRST IMPRESSIONS. -THE AGORA, OR MARKETPLACE.FISH-MARKET, THE BILLINSGATE OF ATTICA. — LOVE OF FISH AND HATRED OF FISHMONGERS. -HERODOTUS'S DISPUTE WITH EUPOLIS THE MONEYCHANGER. CARRIED BEFORE AN ARCHON.PASSED OVER TO THE PRYTANES. - TRIAL. IMPORTANT EVIDENCE, RELEASE OF HERODOTUS.

HERODOTUS left Captain Phylarchus at the Corinthian port of Lechæum; for it was of no use staying there merely to see the ship unloaded and carried across the isthmus. In order, however, not to miss joining Phylarchus at Athens, he promised to call at the house of the Captain's father-in-law directly he was settled, and there to make known the name of the house at which he might be residing.

From Lechæum to Cenchrea was only a pleasant morning's walk along a very busy road; and at Cenchrea Herodotus found a ship just on the point of sailing for Athens, and soon struck a bargain with the captain for conveying him thither. In the afternoon of the next day the voyage was completed; and the vessel, having coasted the southern shore of the immortal isle of Salamis, entered the newly-constructed harbour of Piræus.

Herodotus landed amidst the Babel of a thousand voices. The Piræus was already one of the most bustling ports in Hellas. Throngs of retail buyers and strangers seemed to be constantly streaming in from Athens towards the deigma, or emporium, where merchants from all parts of the world exposed the samples of their several wares. Foreign ships of every description ap

peared to be continually discharging their strange cargoes and still stranger passengers and crews. The loungers on the pier, and among the taverns and shops, crowded to the water's edge on seeing a fresh vessel come in, in order to inquire what news from Corinth of the newly-arrived voyagers. Herodotus himself was bewildered by a hundred questions, and, in the utterly confused state of his brain, might have favoured an admiring audience with the whole history of the rascality of the house of Glaucus, which the mere mention of Corinth had brought most vividly to his recollection. Fortunately, however, some Athenian wags, struck with the Spartan quaintness of his figure, endeavoured to extract amusement instead of news, and repeatedly asked him if he had boiled down all his helots for broth, or wanted change for a pot-lid; by which it will be seen that national peculiarities, like iron money and black broth, rosbif, soup maigre, and wooden shoes, have always been chosen as subjects for international waggery. At last, several jokes were passed upon his long hair and untrimmed beard, from which it was pretty evident that some touting barbers had mingled in the crowd; and sure enough one of the noisiest of the jesters soon politely delivered the young stranger from his tormenters, and courteously escorted him to his barber's shop.

"Fair sir,” cried the voluble barber, "rest yourself, I pray you. The mob in the Piræus is really the noisiest rabble in Attica. Just arrived from Corinth, I presume. And how is trade at Corinth? Very bad here. The citizens will wear their hair short; Spartan fashion is what I like long hair, trimmed and dressed every day. Your head of hair is very fine; rather disturbed by your voyage though. The beard, too, requires trimming before you walk the streets of Athens. If you will allow me, I will put your hair and beard to rights in a trice."

In a moment Herodotus was under the hands of the

barber, who chattered rapidly and continuously during the entire operation; and, as he was an unguent seller as well as a hair-dresser, he was just as anxious to dispose of rich unguents and marvellous perfumes as any hair-artist or professor of modern times.

"Corinth, I suppose, sir, is much the same as ever? I have not been there these ten years.

Splendid chariot race, I understand, at the Olympic games. But perhaps you were present? Your hair is weak, very weak; should be cut and dressed oftener. That is the worst of travelling-no barbers. To cut and dress the hair is, as the poet* says,

'A lovely action of a cheerful mind,'

I have some fine unguents here; will brighten and perfume the hair, and prevent its falling off. Iris from Elis and Cyzicus; perfume of roses from Lycia; perfume of crocuses from Cilicia and Rhodes; extract of vine leaves from Cyprus; perfume of apples and marjoram from Cos; oils and essences from Egypt and Phoenicia; everything of the best, and cheaper than at any shop in Athens. I buy direct of the captains themselves. Great rogues some of them are; cannot cheat me though. Perhaps this is your first visit to Athens?-then I need not tell you to beware of sharpers and swindlers. The greatest cheats in all the world live and thrive in Athens. It is a great city though-finest in the world. In a year or two, they will begin building the long walls; and then the Piræus and Athens will be all one. Our new alliance with Megara is a fine thing; but I foresee a war with Corinth. I understand, from a captain whose beard I trimmed yesterday, that there is a revolt in Egypt. Have you heard the news?"

"No!" cried Herodotus, at last aroused. "What is it? I suppose you mean a revolt against the Great

* Athenæus, lib. xii. c. 37.

King. Did you hear whether the insurrection was formidable ?"

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Why, the captain told me; and he had only just come from Naucratis, which, I believe, is the only port where the Greek ships put in. He had a very long beard that required a great deal of trimming. He said that a king of the Libyans, between Egypt and Cyrene, had defeated the Persians, and that all Egypt was revolting against Artaxerxes the Great King. I suppose you know all about the death of Xerxes? He died five years ago. They call Artaxerxes by the surname of Longimanus, because his right hand is longer than his left. Half an obol, sir, is all I charge. Your beard and hair are now quite the thing. May I recommend you to purchase a box of this celebrated perfume? It is called the Panathenaicum. You have doubtless heard of it."

How much more the barber might have said if Herodotus had stopped to listen to him cannot be made known. Herodotus paid the half obol, but politely declined making any purchases on the present occasion. He had left his slave and luggage, together with most of his money, in the hands of his friend Phylarchus; and as he was therefore quite at liberty to do as he pleased, he could not determine upon doing anything at all. So, having at last resolved on postponing his visit to Athens until the following morning, he spent the autumn evening partly in strolling about the Piræus, and partly in one of its many taverns, where, for that night, he had fixed his quarters.

Early on the following morning Herodotus proceeded from Piræus to Athens. The road led over the river Cephissus and through beautiful groves of olives. After a walk of nearly two hours, he at last entered Athens at the Peiraic gate on its western side. The extraordinary wall which had been raised, in spite of the opposition of Sparta, by the crafty management of The

HERODOTUS AT ATHENS.-FIRST IMPRESSIONS.

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mistocles, attracted his first attention. It had been constructed of every variety of material, fragments of temples destroyed by the Persians, columns from tombs, carved stones, and, in short, of anything at hand which could be applied to the purpose. Entering the city, he proceeded onwards towards the agora, where he intended to inquire his way to the Prytaneum, or town-hall, in order that he might there present his credentials to the sitting Prytanes, and learn the name and residence of the Proxenus of Halicarnassus. Accordingly, he trudged along a winding street, having the hill of the Pnyx on his left hand, and looked eagerly and curiously around him, but was sadly disappointed at the aspect of so famous a city. He knew that, only twenty years before, almost every building had been destroyed by the ferocious barbarian, but still he had heard so much of the greatness, magnificence, and glory of Athens, that he had expected to see broad and straight roads lined with splendid structures, the fitting abodes of the mighty Athenian people. As far as he could see, however, the streets were narrow and winding, and by no means over-clean. The houses were mean and insignificant, and built of bricks, not hardened by fire, but dried in the open air. Projecting gables and balconies overhung the streets, which were still farther narrowed by stairs, railings, and doors opening outwards. Statues, altars, and sanctuaries he was continually passing, but still nothing would have given him an idea of the greatness of the city but the multitudes of people, which, even at that early hour, were moving through the streets in every direction. Citizens were hastening to catch their friends at home, for at Athens the people spent most of their time in the open air. Boys were going in merry troops to the school or gymnasium, each apparently attended by his own pedagogue. Women and female slaves were going, even from that distant quarter, to fetch water from the spring called Enneacrunos, near the Ilissus, at