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ASCENT OF MOUNT TABOR.-AROUND AND ON THE SEA OF GALILEE.

ON

N Monday morning the party made a good start in the direction of Mount Tabor and the Sea of Galilee. The tents were sent direct to the camping-ground which had been selected for the night, while the travellers made a détour to the summit of the historic mountain.

They looked back from the crest of a ridge on the road, and had a fine view of Nazareth. An hour's ride from this point through a wooded. valley brought them to the foot of Mount Tabor, the Jebel-et-Tur of the Arabs, and a famous name in biblical history. Unlike many of the mountains of Palestine it is covered with trees to the summit, and the ruins scattered about its sides show that it has been the home of many people through numerous generations.

"We had a zigzag ride up the side of Mount Tabor," said the youths, in their journal, "and made frequent stoppages for our horses to take breath. When we reached the top we found it was not a peak, but a sort of rounded ridge, half a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide. All the space on the summit is covered with ruins, and there have evidently been towns, temples, fortresses, and other buildings on this commanding spot. We learn from the Bible (Joshua xix. 22) that Tabor was occupied when the Israelites first came into the country, and it is probable that there was a town here at that time. In another place (Judges iv.) we learn that Deborah ordered Barak to gather an army here; and it was from Tabor that the Israelites marched when they defeated Sisera. From that time down to the Christian era Tabor continued to be an important point, and was the scene of several battles. In the fourth century it was regarded as the scene of the Transfiguration, and many pilgrimages were made to it by the early Christians. Hermits formerly dwelt here in caves, and subsisted on the charity of visitors.

"Several convents and churches were established on Mount Tabor, and the Crusaders built a monastery on the summit, which was afterward destroyed by the infidels. There are two monasteries here now,

but they are not of much consequence; one belongs to the Latins and the other to the Greeks, and, as we did not wish to show any partiality, we visited both of them. There is great hostility between the monks of

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the two establishments, and those who visit one are generally excluded from the other. Each party claims that the scene of the Transfiguration was on the spot where its own church stands. Both these statements are generally disbelieved; and it is the opinion of the majority of those who have investigated the matter that the great event occurred elsewhere than on Mount Tabor.

"Our ride from Nazareth had given us a good appetite, and we were quite ready for the lunch which Ali brought for us in his saddle-bags. While engaged in satisfying our hunger we enjoyed the view from the summit of the mountain; it includes Hermon and Carmel--the latter almost hiding the thin strip of the Mediterranean, and itself partly concealed by the nearer ranges of hills. Looking to the east we saw a part of the Lake of Tiberias, and beyond it the chain of the Hauran Mountains; and, as we turned toward the southern horizon, the guide pointed

THE VIEW FROM TABOR.

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out the mountains of Gilead. Apparently at our feet was the Plain of Esdraelon, with its ancient battle-fields, and on the hills around us were Endor, Nain, and half a dozen other villages of less importance. The deep Valley of the Jordan was revealed for a considerable distance, and we realized more than ever before how great is the depression where the river flows. The top of Tabor is more than two thousand feet above the level of the Mediterranean, while the surface of the lake is six hundred and forty feet below it. Consequently, we looked down nearly two thousand seven hundred feet to the waters on whose banks we were to pass the night.

"While descending Mount Tabor we disturbed several partridges and other birds, and one of us thought we had a glimpse of a fox darting among the trees. The guide said there were several kinds of game here, but nobody paid much attention to it, since it was not easy to get at.

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The Arabs sometimes catch hares and partridges in traps, but the foxes are too cunning to be taken in that way.

"Down and down we went, and from Tabor to Tiberias it was a descending road the most of the way. We passed the Khan el-Tujar,

or Caravansary of the Merchants, which is very much in ruins, but was evidently a strong place at the time of its erection, three hundred years ago. It was built by the Pacha of Damascus for the protection of the merchants from the robbers, who frequently plundered the caravans and made the road dangerous. A market is held here once a week, and the

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people from Tiberias, Nazareth, and other places in the neighborhood come to sell their wares, but we could not learn that they had much to sell.

"Cana of Galilee, where the water was turned into wine, is off our road, and we had to be satisfied with the indication of its position. It is now called Kefr Kenna, and has a population of five or six hundred, half of whom are Moslems and the rest Greek Christians. The Greeks have a church in which they show one of the jars or water-pots in which the miracle was performed. There is another Kenna or Cana between Nazareth and Mount Carmel, and some authorities think it was the scene of the miracle, and not the one we have been talking about.

"As we rode down the hills we had a full view of the sea or lake of Tiberias, which is also called the Sea of Galilee, and the sea or lake of Gennesaret, and known to the Arabs as Bahr Tabariyeh. It is smaller than you might suppose from its importance in history; it is thirteen miles long and less than seven in width, and in the midst of a region with very few inhabitants. As we looked at it, it seemed little more than a pond, and the hills beyond it were bare and desolate. The fertility of the region must be far less now than it was in the time of our Saviour, and it is

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the general opinion that the country has undergone many changes. We passed the ruins of several villages and towns, and for nearly all the time of our journey the evidences were all around us that a great many people

once lived here.

"The most populous town on the banks of the lake is Tiberias, but it has not more than two thousand inhabitants, and the majority of them have a poverty-stricken appearance. Like all the people of Palestine, they begged persistently for backsheesh, and would not leave us till we threatened to appeal to the Governor and ask for a guard to protect us. We noticed that a great number of them were Jews, and several spoke to us in German; this roused our curiosity, and we asked the Doctor what it all meant. He explained it to us in this way:

"Tiberias is like Jerusalem in one respect--it is a sacred place with the Jews, many of whom believe that the Messiah will rise from the waters of the lake and establish his throne on one of the hills back of the little town. For this reason many Jews of Poland and Germany make pilgrimages to Tiberias, and some of them remain to pass their lives in the sacred spot. They are generally a worthless and lazy lot, and are supported by the charity of visitors and by money sent by wealthy Jews of Europe.'

"More than half the inhabitants of Tiberias are Jews; the rest are Moslems and Christians in about equal proportions. The Latins and Greeks have churches here; one of them is dedicated to St. Peter, and the miracle of the draught of the fishes is said to have taken place in front of the town. There was a terrible earthquake here in 1837, which threw down large parts of the walls and killed great numbers of the people. There has been no attempt to repair the damages, and it would be easy to ride into Tiberias without taking the trouble to enter by the gates.

"Our tents were pitched on a little cleared space outside the walls and close to the lake, and after it became dark we indulged in a swim in the waters of Galilee. The next morning we went to the warm baths for which Tiberias was once celebrated, and tried them for a little while; but the smell of sulphur was so strong that we did not much enjoy our visit. These baths were famous among the Romans, and were believed to possess many curative qualities; the water is very salt and bitter to the taste, and is certainly disagreeable enough to be good for invalids, provided they can stand it. We put a thermometer into the water, and found its temperature 144° Fahrenheit. There are four springs altogether, and there is a building over the largest of them. The baths are taken almost entirely by strangers, as the residents of Tiberias have

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