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in width of the bottom stone to receive the fall of the water. This second layer should reach exactly the grade of the outlet (3.50) or a height of 3 inches from the brook level. On the floor thus made, there should be laid the tiles which are to constitute the outlets of the several drains; i. e., one 3-inch tile for the line from the siltbasin, two 14-inch for the lines F and G, and one 24-inch for the main line E. These tiles should lie close to each other and be firmly cemented together, so that no water can pass outside of them, and a rubble-work of stone may with advantage be carried up a foot above them. Stone work, which may be rough and uncemented, but should always be solid, may then be built up at the sides, and covered with a secure coping of stone. A floor and sloping sides of stone work, jointed with the previously described work, and well cemented, or laid in strong clay or mortar, may, with benefit, be carried a few feet beyond the outlet. This will effectually prevent the undermining of the structure. After the entire drainage of the field is finished, the earth above these sloping sides, and that back of the coping, should be neatly sloped, and protected by sods. An iron grating, fine enough to prevent the entrance of vermin, placed in front of the tile, at a little distance from them, and secured by a flat stone set on edge and hollowed out, so as merely to allow the water to flow freely from the drains, the stone being cemented in its place so as to allow no water to pass under it, will give a substantial and permanent finish to the structure.

An outlet finished in this way, at an extra cost of a few dollars, will be most satisfactory, as a lasting means of securing the weakest and most important part of the system of drains. When no precaution of this sort is taken, the water frequently forces a passage under the tile for some distance up the drains, undermining and displacing them, and so softening the bottom that it will be difficult, in making repairs, to secure a solid foundation for the work.

Usually, repairs of this sort, aside from the annoyance attending them, will cost more than the amount required to make the permanent outlet described above. As well constructed outlets are necessarily rather expensive, as much of the land as possible should be drained to each one that it is necessary to make, by laying main lines which will collect all of the water which can be brought to it.

The Main Silt-Basin.-The silt-basin, at which the drains are collected, may best be built before any drains. are brought to it, and the work may proceed simultaneously with that at the outlet. It should be so placed that its center will lie exactly under the stake which marks its position, because it will constitute one of the leading landmarks for the survey of the drains.*

Before removing the stake and grade stake, mark their position by four stakes, set at a distance from it of 4 or 5 feet, in such positions that two lines, drawn from those which are opposite to each other, will intersect at the point indicated; and place near one of them a grade stake, driven to the exact level of the one to be removed. This being done, dig a well, 4 feet in diameter, to a depth of 2 feet below the grade of the outlet drain, (in the example under consideration this would be 5 feet below the grade stake.) If much water collects in the hole, widen it, in the direction of the outlet drain, sufficiently to give room for baling out the water. Now build, in this well, a structure 2 feet in interior diameter, such as is shown in Fig. 24, having its bottom 2 feet, in the clear, below the grade of the outlet, and carry its wall a little higher than the general surface of the ground. At the proper height insert, in the brick work, the necessary for tiles all incoming and outgoing drains; in this case, a 3-inch tile for

The drains, which are removed a little to one side of the lines of stakes, may be turned toward the basin from a distance of 3 or 4 feet.

the outlet, 2-inch for the mains A and C, and 1-inch for B and D.

This basin being finished and covered with a flat stone or other suitable material, connect it with the outlet by an

Fig. 24.-SILT-BASIN, BUILT TO THE

SURFACE.

single badly laid tile at this of obstruction to the flow.

open ditch, unless the bottom of the ditch, when laid open to the proper depth, be found to be of muck or quicksand. In such case, it will be best to lay the tile at once, and cover it in for the whole distance, as, on a soft bottom, it would be difficult to lay it well when the full drainage of the field is flowing through the ditch. The tiles should be laid with all care, on a perfectly regulated fall,-using strips of board under them if the bottom is shaky or soft,-as on this line depends the success of all the drains above it, which might be rendered useless by a point, or by any other cause

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While the work is progressing in the field above, there will be a great deal of muddy water and some sticks, grass, and other rubbish, running from the ditches above the basin, and care must be taken to prevent this drain from becoming choked. A piece of wire cloth, or basket work, placed over the outlet in the basin, will keep out the coarser matters, and the mud which would accumulate in the tile may be removed by occasional flushing. This is done by crowding a tuft of grass,-or a bit of sod,-into

the lower end of the tile (at the outlet,) securing it there until the water rises in the basin, and then removing it. The rush of water will be sufficient to wash the tile clean.

This plan is not without objections, and, as a rule, it is never well to lay any tiles at the lower end of a drain until all above it is finished; but when a considerable out. let must be secured through soft land, which is inclined to cave in, and to get soft at the bottom, it will save labor to secure the tile in place before much water reaches it, even though it require a daily flushing to keep it clean.

Opening the Ditches.-Thus far it has been sought to secure a permanent outlet, and to connect it by a secure channel, with the silt-basin, which is to collect the water of the different series of drains. The next step is to lay open the ditches for these. It will be best to commence with the main line A and its laterals, as they will take most of the water which now flows through the open brook, and prevent its interference with the rest of the work.

The first work is the opening of the ditches to a depth of about 3 feet, which may be best done with the common spade, pick, and shovel, except that in ground which is tolerably free from stones, a subsoil plow will often take the place of the pick, with much saving of labor. It may be drawn by oxen working in a long yoke, which will allow them to walk one on each side of the ditch, but this is dangerous, as they are liable to disturb the stakes, (especially the grade stakes,) and to break down the edges of the ditches. The best plan is to use a small subsoil plow, drawn by a single horse, or strong mule, trained to walk in the ditch. The beast will soon learn to accommodate himself to his narrow quarters, and will work easily in a ditch 2 feet deep, having a width of less than a foot at the bottom; of course there must be a way provided for him to come out at each end. Deeper than this there is no

economy in using horse power, and even for this depth it will be necessary to use a plow having only one stilt.

Before the main line is cut into the open brook, this should be furnished with a wooden trough, which will carry the water across it, so that the ditch shall receive only the filtration from the ground. Those laterals west of the main line, which are crossed by the brook, had better not be opened at present, not until the water of the spring is admitted to and removed by the drain.

The other laterals and the whole of the main line, having been cut to a depth of 3 feet, take a finishing spade, (Fig. 25,) which is only 4 inches wide at its point, and dig to within 2 or 3 inches of the depth marked

ISHING SPADE.

on the stakes, making the bot- Fig. 25.-FIN-
tom tolerably smooth, with the
aid of the finishing scoop, (Fig. 26,) and
giving it as regular an inclination as can be
obtained by the eye alone.

Often, large stones, which would cost much labor to remove, will be encountered in the digging. If these lie from 6 inches to a foot above the final grade, and are not too large, it will be easier to tunnel under them than to take them out, or to go around them; but, if they are very large, or lie close to the bottom, (or in the bottom,) the latter course will be necessary.

Fig 26.-FINIf the ground is "rotten," and the banks ISHING SCOOP. Of the ditches incline to cave in, as is often the case in passing wet places, the earth which is thrown out in digging must be thrown back sufficiently far from

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