"What do you think of this application ?" "I don't know what the application is, Commander," I replied.

"Well," he responded, with a look of mingled gallantry and responsibility, "this lady comes to me with this lieutenant from the lines below. The passes are all right. The document states that the parties are bearers of medical supplies for the wounded in the late battles at Front Royal. They are anxious to get on to reach the sufferers, and I don't like to detain them, as this is the last point to be passed before they reach the Confederate lines. Still I am in doubt as to my duty. What do you think ?"

I

fuse a pass for such necessities as these; even for our enemies?"

"Certainly not," I replied. "But are you sure that carriage contains nothing else besides hospital supplies ?"

"I-think-so," the Commandant answered, with some hesitation. "I have had a partial examina tion made. A gentleman don't like to peer too closely into the baggage of a lady, you know."

"Well, Commander," said I, "since you ask me my opinion in this case, I will frankly advise you to detain these interesting travellers until you can ascertain more about them. I have my suspicion that all is not right. You know we are in an enemy's country, and surrounded thickly by most cunning spies-especially ladies."

"Very true," the Commander responded. "But these parties come to us so strongly commended,

"And so good looking !" I ventured to interpose.

"Yes," he continued; "but every way modest and unassuming. She is a perfect Virginia gen

VOL. XIII.-19

tlewoman! Why, do you know, she actually reminds me of my sister, pleading for wounded and suffering brothers at home. How can I refuse to let her hasten on with such an errand of mercy?"

"Do as you please, Commander," said I; "the responsibility is yours. You have asked me my advice, in my professional capacity, and professionally I have given it."

We reëntered the apartment. The Commander gave another look at the lady, as she welcomed him back with one of her loveliest smiles. It seemed as if her soft and winning looks had reimpressed him with her resemblance to his absent sister—and, it may possibly have been, to the sister of some one else, far away-for he immediately sat down at the post-table, and wrote:

"Pass these parties through the Union lines, to Front Royal.

"Post Commandant, "WINCHESTER, VIRGINIA."

In a few moment the suspicious carriage and its more than suspicious occupant was out of sight up the distant hill, and wending its unmolested way down the Shenandoah Valley.

Before noon of the next day I was summoned to march to the field at Front Royal. Toward the setting of the sun, as I took my place of command, I saw a cloud of dust rising in the dim dis

tance. With my field-glass I discovered by the side of the road that led directly to the scene of action, the identical horse and carriage that stood a few hours before in front of the Federal headquarters at Winchester. At the bottom of that innocent-looking old Virginia carryall, covered all over by equally innocent-looking bottles and boxes of medicines, bandages for the wounded, and clothing of all sorts, adroitly concealed in a lady's apparel was a full and complete outline of the condition of the Federal force in the Valley, especially of every one of its weakest points.

While I looked at the broken-down horse and vehicle through my field-glass, not knowing what would come next, the sudden and sharp rattle of Confederate musketry rang from a neighboring wood. In a moment more whole files of our brave boys, standing unprotected in the open field, bit the dust. A moment after, as if by magic, a squadron of Jackson's picked horse dashed over an intervening hill, where they had been lying in ambush, charging with fearful havoc on our little unsheltered band, and mowing them down like grass in a summer field.

At the head of this thundering and smoking troop, shouting as loudly as her sweet voice would permit, and waving in her dainty hand a bloodred banner, was the beautiful lady of the day before in the office of the commandant— THE SPY OF THE SHENANDOAH,

I.

In the summer of 1856 it was my fortune, in company with Colonel Clarence S. Bate (now a well known planter residing near Louisville), and the late Confederate General "Dick" Taylor, to visit the Mammoth Cave. During our explorations we made an important discovery, by which the cave was found to be eleven miles in length instead of nine, as had hitherto been supposed. Before, however, detailing minutely this discovery, it may be well perhaps to glance rapidly at the chief features of this eighth wonder of the world.

The Mammoth Cave was undoubtedly used as a place of sepulchre by a prehistoric race. This is proved by finding in it from time to time the gigantic skeletons of a people regarding whose history even tradition is silent. It was first brought to the notice of the whites by a hunter, who stumbled upon it while in pursuit of a bear, in 1802. It attracted, however, but little attention until the War of 1812, when it was extensively used by the settlers for the manufacture of saltpetre; and indeed so strongly is its atmosphere impregnated with this substance, that the footprints of the oxen employed in the cave at that time to draw out the saltpetre are to be seen to this day.

The main avenue, after extending to the distance of some two miles, divides into two branches, one called the "Short Route," which is three miles in length, and the other known as the "Long Route," which is eleven miles. Confining our attention first to the "Short Route" we will examine this section of the cave.

II.

The first object of interest is the Haunted Chamber, so called from the fact of two Indian mummies having been disinterred there in a perfect state of preservation. These were found seated in two niches, and were surrounded by all the implements of the chase. There were their bows and arrows to kill the game in the "happy hunting grounds;" their pipes to smoke at the close of the day's labors; a fragrant roll of tobacco designed as a propitiatory offering to the Manitou

or Great Spirit; a spear with which to provide food on the way; and two earthen jars of parched maize to sustain them should the game be scarce. Most unhappily for the cause of archæology, these precious relics fell into the hands of the discoverers, an ignorant, stolid lot of "poor whites," and consequently any light which their possession by science might have thrown upon the manners and customs of the early aboriginals was utterly and forever quenched.

From the Haunted Chamber the visitor is conducted down a gradual descent and through a long gallery into what may be called the Great Vestibule of the cave. Here the darkness and gloom are intense. The torches which each one carries scarcely penetrate a foot into the surrounding blackness. It is above you, below you, and on each side of you. You can hardly believe you will ever again see; and the bright sunshine, left but a few minutes before, now seems like the confused memories of a forgotten dream. But the old guide, "Steven," having lighted up the place by means of a Bengal light, a spectacle of awful sublimity appears above you, where at the height of two hundred feet the tesselated ceiling is seen vanishing in the dim obscurity. Here indeed is the true cavern of the Gnomes, compared with which its counterfeit representation on the stage seems superlatively feeble and farcical. Louisa's Bower and Vulcan's Furnaces are now passed. Underneath the latter-so named from a heap of nitrous earth, similar in appearance to cindersthere was unearthed a few years since a skeleton, the bones of which indicated their possessor when alive to have been eight feet in height. The New and Old Register Rooms next appear. The ceiling of each of these rooms is as smooth as if it had been plastered, and would have been of a spotless white had not visitors, with most consummate egotism and vanity, from time to time disfigured it by tracing upon it their names with the smoke of their lamps. A few steps further, and we are in the Gothic Chapel, one of the most, if indeed not the most magnificent part of this avenue.

1 Since dead.

This chapel is elliptical in form, and is eighty feet long by fifty feet wide. Huge stalagmite pillars form the two ends, while equidistant from the two sides and extending its full length two rows of stalactite columns reach from the ceiling to the floor. The guide having hung the lamps around the chapel, a spectacle of beauty appears unsurpassed even in our wildest dreams. It is difficult indeed not to imagine that we are in Titania's Bower, and that from behind yonder pillar Puck will not come laughing forth, followed by Mustard Seed and Cobweb. The rays of light falling upon the different columns reflect back upon each other a thousand different hues, thus giving the walls and ceiling the appearance of being studded with thousands of diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires.

The

Leaving the province of imagination, it might be a curious study for the scientist to determine the length of time these stalagmite and stalactite pillars have been in process of forming. problem is to a large extent one of chemistry, assisted by observation. How long would the formation of such massive columns of stalactite, deposited by water dripping from the ceiling of the cave, require? In the calculation it must be remembered, first, that the drip must be moderate, otherwise the deposit will be washed away; and secondly, that in this cave, evaporation, which so much facilitates the deposition of stalactites under bridges, arches, etc., is wholly impossible. Nor is the answer to this question entirely conjectural. Fortunately we can at least somewhat approximate to it. In Kent's Cavern, in Devonshire, England, we have, at a point where the stalagmite floors are thickest, a kind of time scale or gauge. In that cave, on a rather large knob or boss of stalagmite, a recent traveller, by the aid of a tallow candle, easily read this inscription: "Robert Hedges, of Ireland, February 20th, 1688" (the letters, about an inch in length, having been cut or scratched in with a knife). Although the hard water still continues to drip on this name, one hundred and ninty years have served to dim but not efface this inscription. "The film over the letters," says the traveller, "certainly does not exceed onesixteenth of an inch in thickness." Putting aside the immense time requisite for the formation of all the other strata, "it appears," continues the traveller, that the stalagmite floors alone, at this rate, would have required over six hundred thou

sand years for their deposition." But the "stalagmite floors" here spoken of are only from two to five feet in thickness; whereas these columns in the Gothic Chapel in the Mammoth Cave are some twelve to fifteen feet in height. Consequently the time for their formation must have been fully 1,800,000 years, a length of time before which reasoning and even imagination are dumb. Leaving the fairy realm of the Gothic Chapel, we pass the Devil's Chair. This is a perfect chair, formed by Nature in a huge stalagmite pillar. After the visitors have ail sat in this chair, influenced perhaps by the same feeling which induces people to sit in the Coronation Chair in Westminster Abbey, we pass by the Elephant's Head and the Lover's Leap, and soon reach Napoleon's Dome. This is a huge arched dome of some fifty feet wide by two hundred and twenty feet high. The guide illuminates this in the same manner as the Grand Vestibule, producing an effect truly sublime. Elaborate Corinthian cornices are seen supported by the walls, from which massive and regular arches in graceful proportion spring up, meeting at the centre. Near by a beautiful lake meets one's view, appropriately named Lake Purity. The water is delightfully cool and affords a delicious beverage to those who fatigued by their walk have just seated themselves upon its banks.

We now retrace our steps and enter again upon the Grand Avenue. The scenery from this point for quite a distance is quite tame, until the Giant's Coffin looms forth from the almost tangible darkness beyond. This is to all appearance an immense sarcophagus, fifty feet in length. Some of the most delicate incrustations to be found in any part of the cave are to be seen here. Growing into every variety of shape, they frequently assume very natural forms. Here you see flocks of birds; there one of the finny tribe; while directly over your head you are sure that that huge panther is about to pounce directly upon you.

Passing down a flight of natural steps behind the Coffin, we pass through the Deserted Chambers, so called from the prints of Indian moccasins remaining to this day, to the Saddle Pit, the Covered Pit, and the Bottomless Pit, the latter of which is the most noted. The guide having thrown a lighted torch down this pit, the appropriateness of the name is apparent. For three hundred feet nothing is visible but black, murky walls; and as you gaze your eyes follow the lighted

brand as it revolves slowly round and round, until a hissing sound announces that it has reached the sluggish pool at the bottom. Near this pit is a small cave diverging from the main one. It is filled with quartz, red ochre, gypsum, chalcedony, and various salts. Passing within, we soon reach the Crystal Chambers.

The ceilings as well as the walls of this remarkable formation are covered with crystalized salts; and frequently the agitation of the air made by visitors causes the crystal to fall so thickly as to give the appearance of a snow storm. Advancing a hundred yards further, a most spacious and magnificent amphitheatre meets the view—an appropriate antechamber to the great curiosity of the whole of this route, viz.: The Star Chamber. This is the end of the Short Route, or the first day's trip. We will therefore close it with a description of the Star Chamber, from the pen of Jules Benedict, one of the party that accompanied Jenny Lind to the Cave a few years previous to our visit. Mr. Benedict says: "Here the cave widened, and we found ourselves standing, as we seemed to emerge from the avenue, under a broad and sable sky, spotted with unknown stars. Almost for the first moment you might dream that you had entered upon another world. The illusion is complete. Above you lies the vault of the novel heaven, seamed with apparently countless planets; and around you stretches the dark and weird-looking horizon, apparently dying away into the gloom of that strange firmament. Here also our guide shone in all his glory. First he would withdraw within the entrance, carrying the torches with him. Then the stars would disappear one by one, until we were left in silence and darkness: Anon a crimson light would break out among the rocks, whose intense brilliancy would give us some idea of the grandeur and splendid proportions of the Star Chamber, sparkling in its brilliant glory on the glistening spots of the sable coping."

III.

The following day was devoted to the exploration of the Long Route. The scenery of the two routes is as entirely different the one from the other as if they lay miles apart. If Nature has bestowed a few rich gifts upon the one, she has lavished her choicest ones upon the other. The first part of this jaunt abounds not so much with objects that appeal to the finer feelings as they do

to those which draw out the deeper and more sublime emotions of the soul. You do not recognize the beauty so much as you do the intense grandeur of the objects, in the contemplation of which you are lost.

After proceeding from the mouth of the cave to the distance of five miles, you find yourself on the borders of the Dead Sea. Surrounded by dark precipitous rocks, you gaze upon the murkish, sluggish waters, some two hundred feet deep, beneath you, until with a shudder you turn away, and walking up the Pass of Elghor you find yourself in Arabia Petra. Here we come to a larger and similar lake called Lake Lethe. Whether or not it has the same properties as the one described by Dante I know not. It is certain, however, that the way in which it is crossed is in a much less mythological way than formerly, which is nothing more nor less than by an immense natural. bridge thrown over it at the height of some sixty feet. Crossing this bridge, and proceeding up Silliman's Avenue, we meet the river Styx. Cerberus not being on guard, there was no Charon to ferry us across-consequently we had to do this ourselves, and presently found ourselves not, gentle reader, upon the banks of the Elysian Fields, but close upon the shore of the greatest wonder of the cave, Echo River.

This river is a mile long, and from eight to forty feet deep. At certain seasons of the year it rises to such a height as to prevent visitors from going further; but when it is sufficiently low to admit of a boat this sail alone is well worth the whole trip. From the fact that the rising of the waters of Echo River corresponds precisely with the rise of Green River it is thought, and with great probability, that Echo River is a branch of that stream.

The reverberations at this point are so strong that a few notes sang in a low key have all the effects of a large cathedral organ. The echo frequently lasts from ten to twelve seconds; so that when a flute or any wind instrument is played, the effect is intensely grand. From crag to crag and from chasm to chasm the sound leaps, until, coming together, one vast column of music is heard issuing from the farthest extremity of this part of the cave. When Jenny Lind. was here she sang, at the request of the party, one of her finest songs. The effect is described by those who heard her as simply "superb."