« AnteriorContinuar »
that they were not large limbed enough, for about him. I pleaded for the poor prisoner, Goemagog, one of the hugest of them, was and he was released.
We passed through not too big for Corineus to carry. I con- Combmartin, an old, and dirty, and poor ceive it, therefore, being unable to trace place; one house, once a good one, bears any other inhabitants of Britain who pos- the date 1584 ; another is built in a most sessed power enough for the wonder, to be ridiculous castle style, and called the Pack the ruins of some work erected by the devils of Cards. Near is Watermouth, a harbour who concubinated with the fifty daughters of not used, but strikingly beautiful, the one Diocletian ; not that Diocletian who chose side formed by a peninsular rock running to lengthen his name of Diocles for the same out parallel with the shore, with herbage on reason that the inhabitants of Frog Lane its summit—and a little islanded fragment in Bristol, in contempt of the original god- at the end. fathers of the said Frog Lane, have gen- Similarly formed is the harbour at Ilteelized it into Frogmore Street—but the fracombe, and much of the town stands on Thracian king, and this diabolic origin ac- the peninsula. The shores are broken and counts why the process of nature in cloth- fine, the country naked and dreary. To ing the rocks does not proceed here beyond Barnstaple is eleven miles; as you approach a luxuriance of lichens.
the town you have a fine view of the bay, On the summit of the highest point of and river, and town, of Biddeford on the the hill, two large stones inclining against right. each other form a portal; here I laid my- Sunday 11. A rainy day, and the devil self at length — a level platform of turf | himself dislikes walking in the wet, for it is spread before me about two yards long, and written that he wandereth up and down in then the eye fell immediately on the sea- dry places. I went by stage to Taunton, a giddy depth. After closing my eyes a in the coach were a daughter of Dr. Cul. minute, it was deeply impressive to open len, a woman unhappily ugly, a Scotchthem upon the magnificent dreariness, and man, myself, and another young man of the precipice, and the sea. A Mr. Williams about my age, and like me in a white hat. led me here in the morning ; in the evening I found hin universally read, and an oriI came alone, and resigned myself to the ental scholar; he interested me, and told me solitude. This Mr. Williams is a natural if I came to Exmouth he should be glad to son of the Duke of Gloucester.
show me the place. Breakfast at South MolThe alehouse at Linton is bad. Mr. ton, twelve miles; dinner at Tiverton, eighLean was there and claimed acquaintance teen; Taunton, twenty-two. The Scotchwith me, because his son bad met me at man and I past the evening together; he Bristol. He is a pleasant, intelligent man, chose theology for the subject of conversaand showed me where to walk. I learnt tion, and exprest much surprise that I talkafterwards that he travels twice or thrice ed intelligibly and without anger: he gave a year with a cartful of goods round Ex- me his address and a friendly invitation. moor; and when he arrives at a village, it is Samuel Watson, Tanner, Ayr, Scotland. proclaimed at the church door that Mr. Monday 12. Bishops Lediard five. Here Lean is come.
I astonished my aunt Mary by breakfastSaturday 10. To Ilfracombe five hours ing with her. Seven over Quantock to and a quarter; the distance variously com- Stowey. puted from fifteen to eighteen miles. Two At Wellington I saw a very fine boy, about young sailors were my guides ; and an ac- twelve years old, who lost both his legs by quaintance of theirs went part of the way. the severe cold last winter. At Linton, in He caught a young lark, and it was quite a little shop window, I saw caricatures of distressing to see the parent bird fluttering the coalition. At Tiverton, the boiled beef
had an herb-stuffing which pleased me place; there are persons here who always much.
call the Americans the rebels. One great
street, Fore Street, runs through the city, TUESDAY, Aug. 27. To Taunton twelve. the rest is dirty lanes; as you cross the To Honiton eighteen. At Honiton they put bridge you look down upon a town below the Coleridges into a chaise with cart-horses. you intersected by water in a strange way. We were told that the towns-people there The river Ex is fine, and the walks on its are remarkably dishonest, and have been banks. There is a canal whose shores are so ever since the borough has been venal. completely naturalized, and most beautiOn the road is one rich view over the vale fully clothed with flowers. of Taunton.
Wednesday, Sept. 11. Coleridge and I Wednesday 28. To Seaton twelve. A set out to Moreton, for about seven miles hilly and uninteresting road, for some miles the way was hilly and heavy. We then crost over an open heath so luckily lonely that the Teign by a beautiful old notched bridge, we found our trunk, which fell off some and ascended a woody hill rich in magnihalf mile before it was mist. At Seaton no ficent views of woods and the river below. lodgings were to be had. It is a high, open, It rained incessantly the last half of the naked, Dorsetshire sort of country, with way, and we rejoiced in expectation of the nothing to make me leave it with regret or waterfall to-morrow. To Moreton twelve. remember it with pleasure. To St. Mary Thursday. Through Bovey and ManniOttery, twelve. The church here is very ton, two beautiful villages, to Becky Fall. beautiful, the place itself remarkable as the The stream falls among huge round stones, birth-place of Gower, and Browne the -a striking scene. But we were some hours Pastoral Poet, and Coleridge.
too late for the rush after the rains; and From Ottery I walked with S. T. Cole- waterfalls, unless they are Niagaras, usuridge to Budley Salcombe; on the way we ally disappoint. Mediocrity in a cataract past the mansion of Sir Walter Raleigh. is as bad as in poetry. Near this is LustIn Lord Rolle's park are the finest beeches leigh Cleeve, a similar scene. Indeed the I ever saw, one in particular which is quite whole county repays a pilgrimage. We dead, but in its ramifications even more touched upon Dart Moor, and passed very beautiful than the summer trees; it branch- near Heiter Cliff
, the highest point in the ed into three great branches, one of which county,-a rocky summit, visible almost shot immediately into three smaller ones. everywhere, and sometimes looking like a The Otter enters the sea at Budley Sal- ruin. This we left on our right, descending combe. I forded it at its mouth. The sce- into the vale. The road is intricate, and nery upon the river is tame and soothing; the directing posts of no use to a stranger, like all the Devonshire rivers it often over- or little, for they are only marked with the flows.
initial letter of the town to wlrich they Also we went to Sidmouth, a nasty wa- point. One spot I remember with pleasure, tering place, infested by lounging ladies, and saw with delight, a little vale watered and full of footmen.
with a mill-stream, the circling hills high, Monday, Sept. 2. To Exeter twelve. and on one part deeply wooded, the vale
Exeter is ancient and stinks. The ca- sprinkled with fine old ashes, that seemed thedral looks well in those points where to have been spared by a man of taste when both towers are seen, and the body of the he rooted up a grove. The mill stood unbuilding only half. The bells rung for the der the hill, a neat, comfortable habitation. surrender of the Dutch fleet. One church A saw.pit was before it. There was just with two bells went ding dong, another had enough of man, and what there was, was in but one, and could only ding. It is a bigotted | keeping. Ashburton twelve, a good town.
Friday. Totness eight. The road affording EXETER. Mr. Grainger's garden is sinprospects worth looking at, and fine where gular in its kind. It is in the Castle ditch, it crosses the Dart. Totness is a neat town, and this accident has been made the most which spread very finely as we looked back of. It is well planted with many and noble upon it. The right way to see the country trees. There is the finest poplar that I reis to go by water to Dartmouth; bu member. I have Iso seen the pictures of were too late for the boat, and were there- Mr. Abbot, an apothecary here. I never fore compelled to walk ten miles along a saw better landscapes; finished even with road heavy, uninteresting, and objectless, Dutch niceness, yet good in effect; interestbut not flat, for the calves of my legs suf- ing in every part, yet fine wholes. He fered most Procrustian extension up the seems to have studied nature with uncomhills.
mon care and success. His shadows are Dartmouth is a strange and beautiful particularly fine,-not the vulgar black of place. The river is broad, some half or painters, but ever partaking of the colour three quarters of a mile to the opposite town,
of the object. Kingswear. The hills not high enough, The corporation used to compel people but yet beautiful. The walk to the Fort to keep their doors clean. Twelvemonths leads along the waterside by a terrace, for since it was discovered that they had no authe town is built high. By moonlight we thority to do this, and now the people will saw it.
not clean away the dirt, because" they can't Saturday. Crossed the Dart to Brixham, force us to." five. Torbay is shored with red sandbanks. At Exeter is a choice collection of waterWe were wearied with its insipidity, and colour drawings, in the possession of Mr. struck for Newton Bushell sixteen.
Patch. The two masterpieces of Paine are Sunday. Exeter fourteen. The walk af- there, and some incomparable pieces by forded some Devonshire views, that is, ex- Smith, Turner, and Pococke. tensive scenes in which the eye found no
Honiton sixteen. The vale rich and beauone object to rest upon.
tiful. Axminster nine. Bridport twelve. By Newton Bushel we saw a board, “Man
Dorchester sixteen. A hideous country, culTraps and Spring Guns are tilled in this
tivated without enclosures, the hills scored Garden." Tilled, therefore, is prepared,
with furrows like roast pork. Wareham ten, made ready.
dreary and desolate. Poole ten. Christ Devonshire has been overpraised. The
Church fourteen. hills are high, angled over with hedges, but no wood. A new country that had no TUESDAY, October 29. Ringwood eight. forests would look like it. They are high Rumsey seventeen. On the way is the Picked enough to fatigue, and yet not enough to Post, an extra-parochial alehouse, where unexcite admiration. The rivers make the married women go to lie in, out of the reach beauty of this county,—clear, melodious,
of the constables. There.is also on this road down-hill streams. Its great merit is Clou- an oak, once venerated, and still visited, beted Cream, of which I make honourable cause it buds on Christmas day. An open mention!
country, some of the forest scenery fine. Winchester eleven, in part through the fo
rest. The cathedral has more to admire than | It is from the A. S. tilian, to prepare. Todd quotes aptly the lines of Browne,
? The garden at Eccleshall Castle, the Palace “ Nor knows he how to dig a well, of the Bishop of Lichfield, is also in the ditch. Nor neatly dress a spring :
It was the admiration of poor Bishop Butler, Nor knows å trap or snare to till.” and I am not likely to for geta bed of Gladiolí
J. W. W. he pointed out to me there.-J. W. W.
I have seen, and Milner has described formed a semicircle round the fire, admitit with catholic feeling.
ting light only by the way in, which was in Wednesday, 30th. Southampton twelve. the middle. Of course the visitants within Some fine forest views. This is a town which could see to do nothing but smoke and drink. nothing but the folly of fashion could have An old peasant came in, and called for beer. made famous. A muddy river, and flat He opened upon us with ignorant Jacoshores, rather bushy than wooded. The binism, but it was honest, and the man, though gateway is fine, but it is an unpleasant and with some strange notions about the Union imposing place.
and the wool, was a strong-headed man. This Thursday, 31st. Ringwood twenty. En language was no novelty in the alehouse. I tering the Rumsey road at Stoney Cross had overheard a low conversation between again.
the two women of the house, upon the pro
priety of removing a print from the wall of MONDAY, April 14, 1800.
a certain personage, whose head somebody From Bristol to Old Down, sixteen. A had cut out one day. Upon enquiry, this hilly and little interesting road. Seven to spirit was not wonderful. The war which Wells. The cathedral fine in the view, and enriches Plymouth and the farmers of Dethe Tor. Glastonbury,'six, a town quite vonshire, oppresses the poor heavily; the unmodernised, beautiful by its ruins and country is stripped for the fleet ; butter was churches, and dear by all feelings of reve- 18. 6d. per pound, meat 8d. and 9d. in this rence and chivalry. Bridgewater, sixteen. village, twenty miles from the bay! The Taunton, twelve.
peasantry are the sufferers, because they Tuesday, 15th. Six to Wellington,-an- cannot retaliate by raising the price of their tiqua sedes Southeyorum. Twelve to Cul- labour. If they will not work for what their lumpton, one of those towns where the inn- employers choose to give them, they must keepers have enough business to make them starve. procure good accommodations, and not A very decent soldier joined us in the enough to render them negligent. Twelve alehouse; a marine of the Le Loire frigate, to Exeter. Nine to Chudleigh. It was fair. returning from a visit to his family at DursThree hundred and twenty French prisoners ley, in Gloucestershire. This man, too, had were looking at the merriment through the in his family felt the pressure. We made wooden bars of their temporary prison. them very happy by paying their shillingThey were crowded like brutes. I learnt worth of drink. The old man was delighted, they were on the way to Bristol. Ashbur- and would give his tobacco-box in return. ton, nine. The rivers in Devon are beau- There was written upon it, “Unity, Peace, tiful, but only the rivers. Old mince-pie and Trade." If ever he saw it again, he bridges, dangerously narrow.
should know me.
It was not easy to avoid Wednesday, 16th. Detained to have an
his present. This man wished the fleet sunk, old chaise patched. Our horses were foun- so much did he perceive the burthen. Our dered. The fleet was in Torbay, and of horses arrived, pair who, as we learnt course this was a miserable time for the upon meeting the stage, by a dialogue bepoor beasts. At three miles from Ashbur- tween the two drivers, had been foundered ton they stopped, and could proceed no far- yesterday. We rode in pain ; every stroke ther. The driver was cruel and obstinate, of the whip was a conscience-blow. It was but the animals wanted power, and this, an abuse of power, a tyrannous cruelty to more than my exertions, succeeded in mak
the brute creation. The crazy chaise was ing him return for other. We the while en
forgotten in this stronger feeling. But tered the kitchen of a little alehouse. The
crack, and down! a gentle, and broken, and wooden bench was well contrived there; it harmless fall. Its consequences were less
pleasant; a mile and half walk through dirt we meet again ? He ran out and ordered and rain to Ivy Bridge. The stage is thir- the four horses, and Edith and he and I teen miles.
were immediately exhilarated. At Ivy Bridge we breakfasted. Walking New difficulties. The innkeeper had no into the garden with Edith, a voice behind,
more horses; he had depended upon pro“God bless my soul !" It was Tom. He had curing them at the other inn, as it was to taken horse to meet us, breakfasted in the keep up the custom of the road. But he room adjoining us, and watched every chaise was a new comer, and the inns had quarthat drove to the door, but omitting to keep relled: they would lend no horses. At first, a look out for foot travellers. But for this from a pretence of pride, their horses should accident, he would have lost us. The bridge not be the leaders, to drag the other man's is ivied, but small, very small, a mere one- cattle as well as the chaise. Put them in arched brook bridge. The stream consti- the shafts then. No! The ostler referred tutes the beauty of this well-known spot. us to his mistress, --he would if she would. It rolls among huge stones adown a little The mistress rebutted us to her ostler,glen. The inn and several gentlemanlike she would if he would-backward and forlooking houses, where only cottages, and ward. The woman was civil, but rogues those all quietness, ought to have stood, and liars all. At last the ostler swore that spoilt the scene. I was pleased and disap- Tomlins' cattle had the distemper. This pointed. To Plymouth, eleven. Some fine decided it. It would ruin her horses; they views in the last few miles. We saw the should not go in the way of the distemper docks, which excited in me no surprise, no for any sum whatever. I laughed with very pleasure. It was all huge,-a great deal of vexation, and Tom laughed, and we cursed power, and 3000 men, and God knows how Cornwall and its road-horses, and its roads, many thousand thousands of money, employed in now doing mischief.
I went back to the first innkeeper. “Look Mount Edgecumbe we did not cross to you! if you cannot take us on, I will go to It was pretty, but not what travellers re- the other inn, and take places in to-morrow's port. The people who so bepraise Devon- stage. Why are travellers to be delayed for shire, must either have come from Cornwall, your quarrels?” This last question was our or they have slipt through Somersetshire, language to both. It ended well. Tomlins, the country of real beauty.
a rascal, said the pair could take us very Thursday, 17th. Our Bristol chaise com- well; he had only recommended four as panion broke his engagement, and instead pleasanter travelling; two could do it with of coming to me to consult about our ar- ease. And this fellow had positively refused rangements, went on the water. We left to take us, not half an hour back; and even him, and crossed with Tom to Tor Point, demurred when Tom said he would not acin the Phæbe's boat. A chaise had been or- company us, and we had offered to walk up dered. We had no sooner set foot in Corn- every hill. Now, mark me!" said Tom, wall than an attempt to impose upon us took we will all go; we will ride up the hills, place. The stage was long,-eighteen miles, if we please.". “ The horses can do it; I -the roads very bad,—we did not know warrant them; I know they can do it.” Off how bad,-our luggage was too much, -a we set. This Tomlins had been detected pair of horses could not draw us. I had been in purchasing stolen stores from the Mars, cautioned against this Cornish rascality, and kicked out of the ship, and ordered never resisted. Tom at last said he would give up to set foot in her again. Tom knew him then his journey with us to Liskard; but therefore. his heart failed him, and mine also. I was The road was rough, but only sixteen going to another country, and when should | miles, though charged eighteen. This false
and its rogues.