ing, once swept the neighing steeds and enthusiastic | the very large number of guests rendered futile his followers of Cœur de Lion in all the glory of conquest anxious exertions to accommodate all, and my com and religion, shouting for the sepulchre.

panion and myself, on our return from a short walk Some few miles beyond the gates, we entered the vale through the Bysa, finding the berths pre-occupied, of Sharon, where those beautiful flowers of Solomon were compelled to make a soldier's shift with blanstill bloom as of yore. "I am the rose of Sharon and kets on the floor, where, independent of our uncomthe lily of the vallies." Proceeding on our route, fortable position, we passed an indifferent night, being the scenery became very monotonous and dreary, and repeatedly roused by the loud and mournful howls of the soil remarkably dry; but I was informed it pro- innumerable dogs collected in the long square immeduced crops of cotton, figs, olives, and limes, and occa- diately in front of the house; these animals recognise sionally large harvests of excellent grain. The day no master, and stray in immense numbers within the became exceedingly hot and sultry, and water could walls and in the outskirts of all eastern cities; they not be obtained to quench the intolerable thirst we are extremely voracious and cunning, and at night-fall all experienced; not a human being passed us on our penetrate into the more populous regions in quest of way, but, occasionally, afar off, standing on an isolated prey, where their snappish barks and dreadful cries rock, or clambering among the cliffs, some solitary resound through the lonely streets in frightful concert. half-naked Arab, with crook in hand, and long-eared, At dawn of day, we hastened to our horses, anx wild, shaggy dog by his side, would be tending his ious to recommence our journey ere the blazing sun goats. The scenery grew more and more desolate had fired the cool and grateful breeze of morning. and lonely; the plain extending far away in the dis- When mounted, those who had not taken time to tance, without an object to break the stale monotony, snatch a hasty breakfast drank off a cup of Turkish or relieve the tired sight; not a human habitation coffee, the very essence of the berry-and, bidding could be discovered, and the casual appearance of the farewell to our kind host, we dashed away through Arabs soon disappeared altogether. The impressive the crowd toward the gate. For a few hours, our dreariness, however, which apparently oppressed the journey was delightful, as we rode over the still and whole cavalcade, was in a great measure soon dis deserted plain, inhaling the fragrant airs wafted across solved. Some Mahommedan horsemen prepared for the vale, blooming with flowers; but about two one of those mock combats, which, at Constantinople, o'clock, P. M., the breeze died away, and the sun and in Persia, are conducted with so much splendor shone down with burning heat, apparently withering and eclat; the furious charge and shout, the command- every living thing beneath the influence of its lurid ing check and masterly retreat at the moment of ter- blaze. Scorched, and choked with dust, we plodded rible onset, were all enacted here with the usual grace on until a large grove of figs and olives by the road and skill. The spacious plains were filled with the side, stretching out their shady branches, welcomed snow-robed chieftains; their tremendous yells rang the way-worn, weary pilgrim; here, beneath the unthrough the air, while the sun, with meridian ray, brageous green of these Scripture trees, we rested our flashed on their clattering arms, as hurling the djerred, tired limbs-from a neighboring pool we obtained they rushed away with the speed of lightning. By cool and delicious water, and with the assistance of some mischance in the shock of fight, a dark, furious-porter, cheese, crackers and cold beef, made a hearty looking fellow was thrown, "dashed thundering to the luncheon. A delicious dessert, in a small sugared fig, earth," where he lay in his fanciful costume, the stern strewed the ground, while the lightest shake of a tree reality of Byron's beautiful image, “fallen Hassan lies, would bring down a fresh supply in copious showers. his unclosed eye yet lowering on his enemy." The Again we mounted, and after riding some fourteen turban torn from his shaven head, floated away with miles from our halting place, reached the barren and the breeze, exhibiting to the defiling gaze of the desolate mountain which binds the plain or valley of Christian dogs, the long raven lock cherished for the Sharon; a scene of more complete sterility and nakedHouri's in Paradise; while his face, discolored withness never presented itself to the eye of man-rock rage and dust, his garments rent, and the wild steed plunging riderless over the plain, breathed forth the poetry of an Oriental discomfiture.

As the sun declined toward the horizon, the caravan, gradually closing, silently pursued the dreary road until about dusk, when a bye-path conducted us to the decayed and dingy town of Kamba, the ancient Arimathea. We made our way through a crowd of admiring, half-naked Arabs, to the residence of a rich Armenian, who received us very kindly, and prepared a most excellent supper, served up in the eastern fashion. Cucumbers stuffed, à la mode Oriental; assafoetida broils; spiced ragouts; whilst an immense dish of Pilau, (rice and boiled fowl, sprinkled with lemon,) sent up a savory steam from the centre of this rich profusion of Asiatic taste. Our kind host made every endeavor to arrange a bed for us; but

piled on rock, with occasionally a stinted shrub or wilted olive, seeking life amid the crevices and craggy steeps. Up this broken and rugged scene we toiled our weary way for many a mile, and, gaining the summit of a lofty ridge, a grand and noble prospect was before us-bounded by the blue waves of the Mediterranean Sea.

While clambering up a narrow defile, we suddenly came in contact with a detachment of Ibrahim Pacha's army-returning from Jerusalem. The party, consisting of horse and foot, were conducted by a black chieftain superbly mounted; the soldiers wore a red uniform, after the fashion of Europe; their bag gage and artillery (long brass eighteen pounders) were lashed to the backs of camels; their standards were furled; and the whole band, enveloped in a cloud of dust, moved slowly down the heated and rocky road,

sounding their bugles, and gazing with astonishment The church was erected by Helena, mother of Conon the pale-faced Christians. stantine, during her pilgrimage to the holy land, in The sun had set; long lines of golden crimson commemoration of her conversion to the Christian were flushing up the western sky; we reached a lofty | faith. It stands entirely upon the hill of Calvary, eminence, and eager excitement seemed to pervade embracing within its body the base and summit of the the van, when suddenly a cry of "Jerusalem" rent hill itself, the sepulchre of Christ, and the cave at the the air. "Jerusalem," cried the anxious centre of the foot of the hill, in whick the cross was discovered in cavalcade, and the thronging rear pressed forward. a dream to the empress. The keys of the church are The city of David was before us; Jerusalem, rearing guarded by the governor, and during the delay in high its walls in the gloom of even-that city of mys- procuring them, we had ample time, within the shatery and crime, with all its recollections stood before dow of the building, to admire the chiselled columns of me. · Jerusalem! O Jerusalem! thou that killest the verde antique and purple porphyry with which the prophets, and stonest them that are sent against thee, front is beautifully ornamented. Chasms in the moulded behold, your house is left unto you DESOLATE,”-pillars, and bruised architraves and capitals, exhibited and never was a promise more fearfully verified. The the stern passage of time, or the ruthless hand of dered banner of the heathen waves in triumph from the structive man. The keys being at length produced, dark and age-marked walls; Mahomet's children rear the large and heavy doors, studded with brass, were their Pagan towers within the once holy sanctuary of thrown open; the incense and gloom of the interior God; and the chosen and beloved tribe of Israel, broke upon us. I stood, an American, a wanderer heart-broken and discarded, are wanderers over the from a far country, within that building for whose poswhole earth; her mountains are desolate and barren,- session the gallant crusader had wrested with the her vales, sterile and fruitless,-fountains and streams, swarthy infidel, now, as then, the lord and master. dried up and withered. That awful denunciation yet The dying groans of a bleeding Saviour were ringing hovers o'er the land-" cut off thine hair, O Jerusa-in my ears; crowds of exasperated and taunting sollem, and cast it away, and take up a lamentation on diery were pictured on the mind; the Scribe and the high places, for the Lord hath rejected and forsaken Pharisee were there; a thorned crown pierced His the generation of his wrath ;"" for the house of Israel dripping brows, the scoff and the shout of the multiand the house of Jacob have dealt very treacherously tude rose above the vaulted dome. "Hail, king of the against me, saith the Lord." Gathered on the brow Jews," was insultingly echoing round; the expiring of the hill, silently we gazed on that hallowed site of sigh of the Son of God trembled on the palsied airman's redemption; not a sound, not a murmur, es- Eli, Eli, lama Sabachtham;" darkness covered the caped the lips of the awe-struck cavalcade, as they land, and the vale of the temple was rent in twain looked on this sad witness of a crucified Redeemer. from the top to the bottom. On the right stood that Night darkened in the west ; the cavalcade proceeded; | lofty and accursed rock, shattered in the midst. I sethe Turkish guard threw open the gates, and we en-parated myself from my companions, and, in company tered Jerusalem. Winding our way through narrow with a young Italian priest, ascended the mount of streets flanked with lofty stone buildings, we proceeded suffering and of hope. On the summit, a slab of marto the Greek Convent, whose poor but obliging in-ble commemorates the spot on which Christ was nailed mates received us with hospitality. Our accommo-to the cross, and a round hole in the fissure marked dations were not of the best; the chambers, surround-its erection. I was lost in the once terrible scene ening a naked court below, were small and poorly furnished-swarming with fleas and exhaling a most noisome stench. Never in the whole course of my existence did I pass a more abominable night than tais, my first one in Jerusalem. On the morrow my body was one festering blister from the attacks of the ungovernable animals whose flying squadrons covered the helpless and wearied pilgrim. Morning at length dawned on the suffering and jaded traveller; refreshing ourselves with a cup of coffee, and a short walk in the lemon gardens attached to the convent, we sal lied out to view the hallowed sites of scriptural events. Conducted by our guide through long and narrow streets, we suddenly found ourselves, on turn ing a corner, before the large and chequered square of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We paused to gaze on the nobly sculptured yet defaced façade of this building, whose marble walls and lofty dome enclosed the sad testimonials and criminal record of the Christian faith. Immediately opposite, the gray minaret of a Turkish mosque rears high the crescent of Mahomet above the turrets of the Christian fane, scorning and boasting over the helpless arm of the civilised world.

acted around me; here trampled the fierce soldiers of Pilate-here arose the hootings of the mob-over this cold gray stone flowed the blood of the Son of God. On each side of the centre other holes are situated, wherein the two thieves who suffered with Christ were crucified; a lamp of gold glimmered faintly from an altar situated in the back ground, opposite the place of death, lighting up the holy gloom which pervaded around.

With a soul filled with sorrow and reverence, I went down that mount of infamy, yet of redemption. Descending far below, I stood in the cavern where, it is said, the true cross was discovered. After making the tour of the church, I found myself before the sepulchre of our Lord, the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea, the good man and the just. The door, through which he conveyed the dead and anointed body of Christ, stood open and hade me enter; the stone was rolled away, and the Angel of God, clothed in a raiment of light, had sought the blest bowers of heaven. I entered; forty golden lamps shone, and shine eternally, over the marble sarcophagus, which contained the mangled body of our Saviour; perfume and incense

me.

were wafted throughout the sepulchre, while fresh | city of the kings David and Solomon, with all its reroses and jasmine were strewed around. The holy collections, was before me; the winding brook of father in attendance pronounced his benediction over Cedron glides through the sepulchred banks; the gar den of Gethsemane stands to the right within the valley, where the olive waves its branches over the place of betrayal; there is the hill of Zion, and the scene of the Last Supper; on Mount Moriah, where once existed that gorgeous temple of the living God, stands the mosque of Omar, wherein no Christian foot dare enter; the standard of Mahomet, and the green banner of David are preserved within; the walls without are handsomely sculptured, and the spacious court tessalated with black and white marble; far in the distance the Dead Sea, still and lifeless, covered those guilty cities of Sodom and Gomorrah; while the Jordan, through banks of sand, rolled on towards the stagnant waters of the lake. The mountain, whence the kingdoms of the earth were tempt. ingly exhibited to the Son of God, rose its desolate and craggy head high among the clouds; whilst, beneath, the distant plains of Jericho, wild and uncultivated, stretched for away in the north.

I passed several hours within the walls of this solemn edifice, gazing on the scriptural paintings, and listening to the seraphic strains of an Italian organ. On leaving the church, rambling along through crowded streets and lanes, I came at length to the Via dolorosa, along which Christ was carried a prisoner to Calvary. The spot is shown were Simon the Cyrenian was taken and compelled to bear the cross, and were Christ, fainting three several times, sat down to I saw the window in the house of Pilate from whence the governor showed the Saviour to the people: "Then came Jesus forth, wearing the crown of thorns and the purple robe; and Pilate said unto them, Ecce homo'-Behold the man ;" and they cried out, "Crucify him-crucify him."

rest.

In the evening we mounted our horses, and, conducted by a guide, took our way without the city walls; passing through the northern gate, whilst the Muezzins from the minarets, in clear and impressive tones, were bidding Mahomet's children come to pray er-"Mahoma, Alla! il Alla Mahoma Alla ackbar!" We descended the hill down a rugged path to the valley of Jehoshaphat, through which still flows, though shrunk and wasted, the brook of Cedron, upon whose once flowery banks flourished the garden of Gethsamane; thousands of Jewish tombstones covered the hill side, and among the many broken fragments which strewed the ground, the sepulchres of Absalom, of Zachariah, and of Jehoshaphat, where conspicuous; while to the left of the bridge a flat stone marks the place where Stephen the martyr was stoned to death. Retracing our steps under the shade of some venerable olive trees, we stood in the garden of Gethsemane, beyond an old fence, a carved stone marks the site where Christ in his agony prayed to the father, that, "If it be posssible, let this cup pass from me; never theless, not as I will but as thou wilt." A little farther on is the place where he sweated great drops of blood, and beyond that, where he returned and found the disciples sleeping.

After wandering about, and dwelling some time amid the interesting locations of our Redeemer's grace, we ascended the opposite hill, directly in front of the city. The mount of Olives, the vales and the plains of Judea rose, sunk, and extended far around me, one gloomy picture of barrenness and sterility; the mighty curse of Jehovah hangs yet terribly over this once blooming land, redolent with nature's choicest blessings. On every side, in every direction, blasted ruin reigned supreme. "Hear, O Earth: behold, I will bring evil unto this people, because they have not harkened unto my word, but rejected it; therefore will I cause to cease from the cities of Judea and from the streets of Jerusalem, the voice of mirth, and the voice of gladness; the voice of the bride-groom and the voice of the bride; for the whole land shall be desolate."

From beneath the shade of an olive tree, I stood calmly looking on Jerusalem; the once magnificent

The sun went down in glory and gold, as the shades of evening settled on the sterile and stony fields. I cast another glance upon the once chosen of God; the red banner of the heathen was yet waving over its lofty walls; camels and asses, as in times of yore, with skins of water, were passing to and fro; the Syrian soldier guarded the city gates, and the drums of the Pacha resounded from within. As I turned to descend, my eye caught the river of John and the blue waters of the sea of Galilee. Descending, we stopped at the decayed monastery erected over the spot where our Saviour weepingly foretold the destruction of the temple, and the ruin of Jerusalem.

On the next morning we rode to Bethlehem; winding down the hill from the Jaffa gate, we passed the field of blood, the potter's field, and entered the great plain beyond the city. We paused at the pool of Hezekiah, and the tomb of Rachel, who was buried by the road side. We drew up on the fields where those celestial messengers, the angels of heaven, appeared by night to the shepherds, declaring the birth of a Redeemer; that blazing star which guided the wise men of the east, once lighted the path we were pursuing. as, meek in spirit, we entered the gates of that city wherein the lamb was born. "And he shall be great, and shall be called the son of the Highest; and the Lord God shall give unto him the throne of his father David, and of his kingdom there shall be no end."

Beneath the floor of the great church erected by the devout Empress Helena, and supposed to have been originally a stable within a cave, was born the Saviour of mankind. Conducted by the monks, and holding lighted tapers, we descended, and stood where Jesus Christ was born. In the apartment, lamps are kept constantly burning, and daily orisons ascend. The church was once very magnificent, but through Musselman cupidity, has been sadly abused. From the summit of the convent, we beheld the field were Abraham kept his flocks—it was bare and drear. The good monks received us kindly and bade welcome with plenty of excellent cheer.

On the twentieth, we bade farewell to the once proud | city; a denouncing judgment hovers o'er its awful decity of Judea, the empire of Solomon, the once chosen solation-but the glorious prophecy of hope rung with of God. I stood upon the last hill to take one long, lin- trumpet echo on my ear. I turned, and dashing down gering look. With a sorrowing heart and chastened through rock and bramble, joined the cavalcade for spirit, I cried farewell to that mournful, yet mysterious Jaffa. DECARLE.

RAISE the "Star Spangled Banner!" on high let it | Stand firm. Be undaunted. Already they yield;

Unsheath the keen sabre, and wield the bright lance, Burn bright in our own till the last drop is shed.
With vict'ry elated, our tyrants advance.

R. E. W.

IMPROVVISATORI,

WITH AN EXTEMPORANEOUS TRANSLATION OF PISTRUCCI'S LAST IMPROMPTU POEM.

BY DOCTOR SOUTHEY.

THE art of improvising, or reciting impromptu when a nightingale from a bush in the vicinity began verses upon any given subject, is intimately connected to compete with him for the mastery of song. Anto with the earliest portion of the history of poetry in every niano pursued his course till the wondrous melody of clime. Many of the Holy Lyrics, and the chant of the bird compelled him to desist; but after a few mo the ancient Druids and the bardic rhymes of the Celts, ments' pause, he addressed the feathered songster in a were undoubtedly of impromptu production. The strain of the purest poesy, and apostrophised the beauHomerides, or wandering Rhapsodists of the Greeks, ty of her song in verses so full of harmony and feeling, the Troubadours of the middle ages, with their lays of that his audience melted into tears. love and chivalry, the Suabian Minnesingers, whose poetical contests are exhibited in the Manesse collection and the northern Heldenbuck, or "book of heroes," the master-singers of the thirteenth century, who celebrated the War of Wartburg at the mountainous castle of that name-the Provençals of France and Spain, and their descendants the minstrels, whose venality brought disgrace upon the gentle craft-all, more or less, practised the art of extemporaneous production in verse.

A vigorous, lively, and unrestrained imagination, with a ready flow of words, are essential requisites in the formation of an improvvisatore; hence we find many specimens of extemporaneous poetry among barbarous tribes where fancy is unrestained, and the language sonorous and figurative. Frequent instances have been observed among the aborigines of America; and the modern improvvisatori of Europe utter their rhapsodies in the rich tones of the genial south.

In the papacy of Benedict the Thirteenth, the fair hands of the Bavarian princess Violante placed a crown of laurel upon the brow of Perfetti, the improvvisatore of Sienna; two volumes of his poetry were given to the public in the year 1748. This man sang his verses, and appeared dreadfully fatigued after every poetic ebullition. Metastasio was addicted to impro visation, particularly in the early part of his career, but was compelled to decline the practice, on account of his sufferings from the attendant excitement. Bernardi, a Roman advocate; Zucco, a Veronese; and Lorenzi, his pupil, were somewhat celebrated for the:: impromptu powers in the eighteenth century.

Several ladies have graced the annals of the gentle craft; and, besides the names of the celebrated im provvisatrici Giovanna de Santi, the nun Barbara, and Cecilia Michelli-the Tuscan lady, Maddalena Fernandez, "bought golden opinions from all sorts of people." The empress Catharine invited her to Petersburg, but the invitation was declined; she was re

The celebrated Petrarch, his rival Serafin d'Aquila, and a poet named Bernardo Accolti, were distinguish-quested by Francis the First to honor the court of ed in this elegant accomplishment in the early portion of the Provençal range. Strange things are said of the wonderful powers of the latter personage, whose pro. ductions, when he recited them in the streets, congregated the whole population about him, to the material injury of the trade of the cities. Leo the Tenth encouraged the professors of the gentle craft, and assigned places at his own table to two of the most cele brated, Andrea Marone and Querno, who also embodied the more profitable avocation of court fool. Signor Querno was allowed to drink wine from the pope's own glass, on condition that he invented two Latin verses upon any proposed subject for every glass of wine; and if the verses were considered of an inferior nature, the quality of the wine was to be reduced by the addition of a proportionate quantity of

water.

Cardinal Silvio Antoniano, who flourished in the sixteenth century, was surnamed Poetino, on account of his great talent in extemporaneous production. A pretty little incident is on record of the nature of his powers-he was exhibiting his wonderful faculty of improvisation, one evening, before some friends who were assembled in an arbor at the end of his garden,

Vienna with her presence-an honor that she accorded, and was received with every possible civility The Arcadian Academy chose her a member, and styled her Corilla Olimpica, and, in the year 1776, she received from the Roman Senate the name of nobile cittadina, and was awarded the glory of a public crown. Theresa Bandettini, who called herself Amarilli Etrusca, was a distinguished improvvisatrice; she was originally an actress, but scarcely distinguished herself above the common herd. one day she listened to the lucubration of an improv visatore at Verona, and became so moved with the ge nius of the poet, that she broke forth in a strain of energetic praise, and achieved the glory of extempo rising a splendid poem. She delivered a wonderful impromptu on the death of Marie Antionette, before the Prince Lambertini, at Bologna, and has since pub lished several poems, of various excellence.

The improvvisatori of modern times are neither numerous nor wonderful in their powers, with the single exception of Pistrucci, of whom, more anon. Several impromptu rhymers have earned distinguish ed names, but the specimens of their productions which have been printed scarcely attain mediocrity.