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broad intelligent features; she is a voluntary teacher, doing the work without compensation. The Italian. is of typical Italian caste; classic features, bright and scholarly. The Spanish young lady has a dark complexion, jet black hair and sparkling black eyes; very much like the Spanish young ladies we meet on the streets everywhere in Spain, with black lace thrown gracefully over their heads and necks. There are two other Spanish teachers who do not speak English. They can teach six languages in the school, and their design is to add to their present work a school to teach the Spanish, Italian French and other languages to Spaniards, Americans, English and others who may desire to perfect themselves in these attainments. San Sebastian is the summer resort for Spain, as Newport is to the United States, and a more healthy, lovely place by the sea and mountains we have never seen in all our journeys. The walks, the rides, the boating, with picturesque scenery everywhere make. it a most delightful resort.

Mr. Gulick has in anticipation the erection of a monument here by American ladies and others, of a large ladies' school building in 1892, in honor of Queen Isabella, who made. it possible for Columbus to discover America by pawning or selling all her jewels to pay the expenses when all other means failed. What more fitting monument could be offered to so noble and self-sacrificing a woman? The location now overlooks Santa

Clara island and the castle on "Monte Orgullo," the harbor and bay of Biscay, and the mountains on either side. The larger number of the girls in the school are from Protestant families. All are subjected to the same rules and follow the same studies, including daily systematic study of the scriptures, and all study the same religious exercises. At first Mr. and Mrs. Gulick were subjected to scorn, and the missionaries and teachers were looked upon as people to be feared and shunned. Now, after seven years of work here, they are beginning to receive social recognition, and musicales are held in their chapel to which some of the best people go. Judging from what we heard, all branches, including music, are well taught, and the Andalusian dance with music by Andalusian girls from the south of Spain, though not taught in the school, was very quaint and interesting to us Americans.

I have rarely looked upon scenery more romantic than that from the walk we had to-day around the fortifications. The natural advantages on the high rocky hill or mountain are very great, overlooking the sea and commanding the harbor. It would be difficult to have a livelier walk than we had with one of the young lady teachers through the "Pases de la Caras," winding around Monte Orgullo, which the English took in 1813, and where monuments are erected to the officers who were killed during the attack. Lomas describes it as follows: "Let real Spanish sunlight

come glinting through the trees, lie hot on the white horseshoe of glistening sand that runs around to Santa Clara, light up the blue waves that dash fiercely, even upon ever so still a day, against the rocks below us, or the emerald green speck of La Isla, and make sleepy the old walls of La Monta that frown out on the world four hundred feet above, and it would be hard to say what is lacking to make a perfect picture." As we come down to the old part of the city-just one street not destroyed by the English in 1813-we come upon old, dingy houses and two churches, within a few minutes' walk of each other-Santa Maria and San Vicente.

In the morning, with two ladies who could speak Spanish and were familiar with the lovely surroundings of San Sebastian, we took a carriage ride some six or eight miles in the country to visit Hernani and Andovia with its huge Romanesque church on a high hill reached through a long narrow street, with houses, or flats, as we should call them. There do not seem to be any houses in the cities or large towns of Spain; they all live in flats. Our road leads over very steep hills, but when we reach the top we are amply repaid for our labor by the grand view of lofty pointed peaks and rugged mountain tops with villas on their sides, the ocean in the distance, and compact San Sebastian nestling by the sea beneath us. We pass the palace of Queen Regent Christina, who spends her summers here. We meet the peasants coming to the city

with their carts and handsome duncolored oxen. Sometimes a cow and bull were fastened together and a wooly sheepskin over their heads ; they draw their burdens by their heads and are not yoked together as with us. The driver does not look as intelligent as the oxen; he walks about ten paces ahead of his team, turning around every few minutes to point his long wand at the foreheads of the oxen and utter sharp "arre, arre' without a shade of effect. They all walk along leisurely with the absence of any purpose, save that of easeful existence. The Spanish are notoriously lazy and indolent. Everywhere in the country are numerous apple trees and "sidra" (cider) is the principal drink of the peasants and poor people. The wines are adulterated and brought from France. The peasant women are doing their washing in some small ponds of water, and as we came back by another road we saw them wade into the river kneedeep, along the banks, in long rows, washing. We soon came upon a large building in the shape of the Roman colosseum, and were told that it was built for bull fights, and would hold ten or twelve thousand people. building was the most attractive to be seen, built of wood and covered with stucco. The performances take place twice a week and many people. come down from France to see them.

The

We leave San Sebastian with regret, even with Burgos and all the other glories in the south of Spain looming in the distance. The scenery up the

valley of the Urumea is very picturesque. It is sufficiently wooded and is dotted with white villages, countrylooking farm houses, and quaint old churches. As we approach the Pyrenees it becomes much grander and is infinitely lovely. The train seems to crawl up the endless interlacing chain of mountains-the last spurs of the

Pyrenees. It was a lovely day
and the mists wreathed in fantastic
and ever-shifting forms around the un-
defined and indefinable peaks. We
pass through many tunnels, and soon
come to the other side of the moun-
tains, which are bare and rugged.
F. C. SESSIONS.

SAN SEBASTIAN, Spain, 1889.

"THE OLD AND THE NEW WEST."

TWO MEMORABLE SPEECHES, BY HON. MURAT HALSTEAD AND HON. H. B. CHAMBERLIN.

Ar the first annual banquet of the Denver Chamber of Commerce and Board of Trade, held January 7th, 1890, the Hon. Murat Halstead of the Cincinnati Commercial-Gazette, as one of the distinguished guests of the occasion, delivered a most interesting address in response to the sentiment, "The Old and the New West," the conclusion of which is as follows:

"I have long been estimating myself a Western man. Many and many a time I have spoken in the Eastern cities of our own country as a Western man, and this center of population that at the beginning of the government was near the city of Annapolis, following a line almost straight west for nearly forty years has been in the State of Ohio, in the census of 1870 it was found in the country and near the place where General Grant was born [applause], but at the last census it had crossed the Ohio river and was

in Kentucky. You know this matter of the center of population is ascertained with perfect scientific accuracy, as much as any matter of astronomy. The center of population was then seven miles southwest of Cincinnati. It is still on the way westward and the time will come, I fancy perhaps within the lives of those now living, when the center of population will cross the Mississippi valley and already it is becoming a matter of difficulty and embarrassment to ascertain just what is the West. But the three great states that are the actual center of the Union are, I believe, the States of Missouri, Kansas and Colorado. [Loud applause.] Ard this State of Colorado seems to have been set apart for a great destiny. It came into the Union, as I believe many thought at the time and perhaps President Jefferson himself, in violation of the constitution. A great

[graphic][subsumed][subsumed]

EAGLE RIVER CANON, NEAR THE MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS, COLORADO. On the Line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.

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