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responding with the dress, should be sufficiently distinct The melianthus with its pale green blossoms hanging to avoid its resembling an envers. The pelerine should in clusters, is a very pretty ornament. be edged with black blond.
SCARPs.-Clear muslin scarfs, brown ground with There is scarcely an article of the toilet on which designs, such as palms, bouquets, or foliage; woollen black blond or lace is not displayed. Redingotes com muslin scarfs, or muslin printed, are well adapted for posed either of gros de Naples or foulards, are entirely summer demi-toilets. trimmed with black lace.
Linen.—Nothing can be prettier than the night Many pretty aprons are composed of blue or rose- dress made wrapper-fashion; they are open in front coloured gros de Naples, embroidered Greek and other down to the waist, trimmed with a plaited cambric designs in black silk; trimmed with black blond; the frill, edged with narrow lace, a large square falling col. pocket holes are edged with a narrow lace in gathers, lar similarly trimmed, and round the neck a row of terminated at bottom by a gauze noeud with tassels; cambric formiug ruche; the same at the bottom of the when the apron has shoulder straps, they are also sleeves, which are mounted on a very narrow wristband. trimmed with lace, which projects on the sleeves and The two sides of the opening in front, the wristbands, has a very pretty effect.
and the collar, are sometimes ornamented with a narrow We have noticed an India muslin dress with printed Per embroidery, the lace is then placed flat instead of on sian designs from the edge of the hein to above the knee. the edge of the trimming. They generally are comThis dress, much lighter in designs than the embroi- | posed of cambric, jacconot, or long cloth; these last dered cashmeres which have been so long fashionable, are more negliges, and are trimmed only with a broad appeared to us to be a very happy innovation, and we hem, back stitched, and a plaited ruche round the neck. have no doubt but that some of the large houses will Under this last trimming a small foulard point is often shortly bring out some of the same description, which / tied. will be a relief to the eye, after the multitude of de- HATS AND CAPotes. -Quilled crape capotes are signs which have so long covered both foulards and seen, which have high pointed crowns. A næud or a chalis.
flower is placed on the top in front of the shape, and A handsome dress redingote, was composed of poult from this ornament originates the brides or ties. de soie with roses on a white ground. The under dress
Clear muslin capotes lined with pink, are generally ornamented with a deep Aounce of white lace; the adopted for morning negliges. skirt wide open towards the bottom, trimmed with a Some clear muslin hats are embroidered in small ruche ; the outside corsage half-high mounting, flat, colonades that widen from the crown to the edge of the closed en coeur and ornamented with a mantilla of white shape, the ends concealed under a garland which borders lace, which formed pélerine over the back and shoul- the shape. Flowers of a light shade or iced ribbons ders ; under dress, the corsage deep cut, and close form the trimmings of these hats. We have seen a very fitting; the sleeves short, trimmed with large sabots of handsome one, lined with pink and ornamented on one white lace, descending below the elbow.
side with a rose encircled with buds. The crown was A very handsome white silk muslin dress, embroidered round, and the brides were fastened under a næud placed with pale rose coloured floss silk, the front and hem on the summit. bordered with a similar embroidery, the corners round We have seen a most becoming hat of British plaited ed; trimmed all round and on each side with a round | straw dashed with green, lined with green poult de soie, ruche of silk tulle ; the skirt entirely lined with rose ornamented with wheat-ears and dark blue ribbons. coloured sarcenet. Nothing could be lighter, more ele. A rice straw capote, lined with white crape, trimmed gant and fresh looking than this toilet. The profusion with cherry-coloured, light-green and mais ribbons iced, of silk net on so transparent a material is very becom Poult de soie hats covered with Iris coloured crape, ing to the features.
are next to rice straws, the most fashionable hats. Negliges.—White muslin striped or checkered is the Rice straw is still in great favor for promenade dress material most employed for wrappers. Pelerines are hats, and evening negliges. indispensable with those redingotes; the pelerines and We have seen one with a fine tuscan plait let in, sides are always trimmed with a narrow lace.
which supported a beautiful moss rose and bud; the Jaconot and muslin wrappers or redingotes should I shape was lined with rose coloured gros de Naples, iced : be bordered with an open worked hem, which, round two flat circles of rose-coloured taffeta ribbon, iced, were the skirt and on both sides in front should not be above twined round the crown. This mode of encircling the three or four inches deep. Above the border a narrow crown is much adopted for English straw capotes. serpentine embroidery, either a myrtle leaf or small By one of those caprices of fashion, which it would rose buds. These wrappers form large plaits deep and be difficult to account for, during the last week or two, close to one another all round the waist. The sleeves | most of the light green crape hats are ornamented with of the ordinary cut, only less narrow towards the arm, deep coloured bluebell-flowers. when the dress is a complete neglige. Below the waist CAP8.-We have some pretty black blond caps, the band is a small plaited cuff, or a flat laid Valencienne crowns of which were entirely cut, allowing the gracelace.
ful disposal of the curls and plaited tresses to be seen. FLOWERS.—Pinks are in great vogue this season; The trimming in front was composed of blond, with a they are more generally employed in small bouquets of | very light and open embroidered design, arched over a various shades, and displayed on the upper part of the garland of dwarf roses without leaves, which crossed crown of Tuscan straw hats; the stems are encircled by the forehead. On one side, above the ear, was a rose a ribbon which forms the ties.
coloured gauze ribbon noud, with long ends falling on A new sort of honeysuckle called rondbékias, is much the neck ; this small cap, a little inclined on one side, employed on rice straw hats.
formed a couronne of blond and roses, coquettishly displayed on the head.
The trimmings of tulle or muslin caps are still nar- | open shape, high pointed crown, ornamented with a row. The crowns close fitting to the head. Some bouquet of flowers. morning caps are trimmed with a double row of lace, CAPOTE & Back View.-A muslin capote, open instead of a ruche. Ribbons are displayed in innumer. shape, pointed crown, trimmed with næuds of cut able variety. Some forming two circles round the ribbon ends, and ornamented with oak foliage. head and fastened on the side; others are cut out in the
FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW.-A rice-straw hat, small shape of leaves and cross the forehead. A sort of open shape, round pointed crown surmounted by a small cockade, composed of rose-coloured gauze ribbon large noud, and ornamented with two branches of iced, these cockades placed close to one another, form a
lilac. kind of garland figuring roses without leaves, is placed Second Hat & Back View.—A crape hat, round on the forehead and supports a trimming of British
open shape, a silk crown figuring a shell, trimmed point lace.
with ribbon bows, and ornamented by a small bouquet. MATERIALS AND Colours.-The black grounds pre Third Hat & Back View.-A silk hat, half open dominate: in almost every tissue : cashmere, chaly, and shape, high pointed crown, ornamented with a large woollen muslin are printed in that colour. A light
næud that covers the top of the crown, and a moss rose material, well adapted for morning dresses, is a
adapted for morning dresses, is al with foliage and buds. jaconet of this description, a black ground with a
CAP & BACK View.- A muslin cap, with a single sprinkling of rose branches with their leafs and blos. row of trimming in front, the crown high, and forming soms. These flowers are varied; forming colonade,
spirale on the top, tastefully ornamented with ribbon bouquets, intermixed, &c.; the pretty effect of the rose coques and bell-flowers. and green colours on a black ground, makes this mate
PLATE TWENTY-SIX.-FIGURE 1.-WALKING Dress. rial one of the most piquante fantasias of the season.
-A gros de Naples redingote, high mounting flat corFoulards enjoy too great a degree of favour to be sage with pointed pelerine and square falling collar ; slightly passed over. The taste and variety of the de
the skirt trimmed in front from the ceinture to the signs, the vividness of the colours all contribute to extremity of the hem; the sleeves wide at the shoulmake this material particularly adapted for morning
ders, close fitting from the elbow. A muslin hat, the dresses of every description. Those with black, brown,
shape square cut under the ears, ornamented with two and dark green grounds flowered in various colours, or branches of fancy flowers. in colonades, are employed for walking dresses. For
FIGURE II.---Opera Dress.---An organdi dress, the wrappers, foulards with small designs composed of two
corsage close fitting and deep cut round the shoulders, colours only are employed.
trimmed round the bust with a ruche. A black lace Painted gros de Naples are still fashionable, but seen
mantelet figuring short redingote, open in front and only amongst the most elegant.
reaching a little above the knee; the sleeves of the White is much employed for morning negliges.
usual cut and dimensions; the skirt plain. The turban The grey shades are numerous and quite fashionable.
of black lace ornamented with an esprit and a jewelled band round the forehead.
Figure III.-.-WALKING DRESS.--A muslin dress,
coral root designs in colonades, high mounting corsage DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
edged round the throat with narrow scolloped lace; the
wide part of the sleeve divided by a band, giving the Plate TWENTY-FIVE.-FIGURE I.WALKING DRESS lower louffan the appearance of a sabot. A gauze -A silk-muslin dress, draped corsage ; black blond scarf with fringed ends. A rice-straw hat trimmed pelerine, the points descending in front of the skirt; with gauze ribbons, and ornamented with snow-drops. short sleeves closed on the arm by a wristband, and FIRST HAT & BACK View.---A silk hat, bibi shape, forming bouffana tulle chemisette, closed by a ribbon doom shaped crown, trimmed with næuds of cut ribbon nõud. A crape hat, small open shape, ornamented ends and ornamented with a branch of roses. with a louquet of feathers arching over the shape.
SECOND HAT & BACK VIEW ---A rice-straw hat, silk Figure II.-MORNING AT Home Dress.-A jaconot crown, inclined, tastefully trimmed with gauze ribbon dress, close fitting corsage cut in dents all round the noeuds and ornamented with a bouquet of feathers. bust; embroidered pelerine widening over the shoulders THIRD Hat & Back View.---An embroidered muslin and cut in deep dents, and embroidered, the points hat, open shape, low, fiat crown, inclined, trimmed crossed over the ceinture; the sleeves short and forming with ribbon coques and ornamented with branches of double bouffans. Black silk net mittens. An em- | dwarf flowers. broidered chemisette, half-highmounting, edged round FOURTI Hat & Back View.-.--Muslin capote em. the neck with narrow lace. Coiffure, the hair turned broidered in colonades, the shape closed on the cheeks, ap behind and elevated on the summit of the head en the crown high and inclined behind, surmounted with chou, separated over the forehead, and descending in an embroidered maslin noud the ends of which form long ringlets behind the ears.
brides, ornamented with a rose and foliage. FIGURE III.WALKING DRESS.-A silk redingote, COIFFURE & Back View.---The hair turned up smooth high mounting corsage, open in front, long wide and elevated in pointed coques on the summit of the sleeves, close fitting from below the elbow; the skirt head, the side tresses close plaited and turned up a la open in front, and ornamented on each side and round Clotilde, a string of pearls across the forehead. the pelerine with fancy dents. The ornament in front PLATE TWENTY seven..... Figure 1.-.-WALKING figuring under 'dress is composed of an entre-deux | Dress.-An embroidered muslin dress, cross draped and gathered up in small irregular plaits from the throat corsage ; edged with a narrow dented lace; a pelerine to the extremity of the skirt. A rice-straw hat, half | widening over the shoulders, and also edged with narrow dents, the points crossed under the ceinture; open shape, square crown, inlined behind, trimmed with the skirt embroidered in colonades; a tulle chemisette green ribbon and ornamented with an esprit. with a ruche round the neck, closed by a gauze ribbon CAP & Back View.-A muslin cap, close fitting to noeud with long ends. A rice-straw hat, open shape, the head, edged round the face with a double ruche of low flat crown, ornamented with a bouquet of roses ; a tulle and trimmed with ribbon egrets, and næuds of cut curtain behind.
ribbon ends. Figure 11---Evening Dress..--A muslin redingote, close fitting corsage, the pelerine forming coeur in MODES DE PARIS ET DE LONDRES. front, edged round with narrow lace, the skirt bordered
PUISEES AUX SOURCES LES PLUS AUTHENTIQUES, on each side with a row of open worked embroidery,
COMPRENANT UN CHOIX D'EXTRAITS DES JOURNAUX and a similar band supporting the gathers in the mid
DONT LES TITRES SUIVENT :dle; the sleeves long, and ornamented on the seam with a puckered band corresponding with those on the
" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"." Le Pettit Cour. skirt and corsage. Coiffure à la Clotilde, ornamented
rier des Dames"--" La Mode"---Journal des Dames" with a feather.
&c. &c. FIGURE III.---Evening Dress..--A silk dress, Modes.-Voici la saison des robes blanches, et cette draped corsage, edged round the bust with scolloped année surtout elles paraissent en grande faveur. Les blond; short sleeves forming double bouffans; the
peignoirs de jaconas et de batiste sont réservés aux skirt ornamented round the hem with a deep black toilettes négligées du matin, mais ces négligés sont blond. Coiffure, the hair separated in front and form d'une extrême élégance; la batiste particulièrement, ing full side curls, adorned with a black blond orna avec une broderie delicate et riche, autour d'un ourlet, ment, the ends of which figure brides.
haut seulement de trois doigts; une Valencienne au First Hat & Back View.---A rice-straw hat, round bord est tout-à-fait recherchée ; quelquefois cette batiste open shape, low pointed crown, ornamented with a | peut être doublée d'un marceline de couleur, ou d'un bird and feather,
léger gros de Naples, et presque toujours le jupon de Second Hat & Back View.---A drawn muslin hat, dessous est une robe de batiste brodée comme le peigclose shape, high pointed crown surmounted by a noir. On met avec, des doubles pélerines dont l'une se noeud ; a curtain behind ; ribbon ties.
termine en pointe devant et derrière, l'autre reste Capote & Back View.--A ribbon Capote, tastefully ouverte; ou toutes deux rondes, étagées. trimmed with a ribbon chou and noeuds, ribbon ties. Les mousselines très-claires, rayées de lignes mates
FIRST Cap & Back View.---A plain muslin cap, a et à côtes fines très-espacées, sont aussi très-bien pour double row of trimmings in front, trimmed with cut robes et pour redingotes. Ces étoffes de fantaisie, sont ribbon ends.
principalement choisies pour toilettes de fantaisie, et la Centre Cap & Back View.---A black blond cap, mousseline et l'organdi uni pour toilettes habillées. the trimming in front figuring aureole, the crown Les mousselines à raies sont charmantes avec des crossed with ribbon bars, ornamented with a rose and pélerines-mantelets,-la pélerine tombant extrémement rose-bud; the brides also of black blond.
bas et garnie tout autour d'un haut volant festonné, Plate TWENTY-EIGHT.-FIGURE 1.-A chintz gros attachée devant par des neuds pareils ou des næuds de de Naples dress, half high mounting corsage with ruban. square cut pelerine forming point in front and edged Une trés-jolie façon pour de la mousseline claire, est all round with a ruche; the skirt full wide, forming une redingote ouverte dont les devans sont bordés d'une thick and deep gathers; an embroidered chemisctte rangée de crevés en mousselines; entre chaque se trouve edged round the throat with a flat laid lace; the sleeves un næud de gaze citron; les crevés posés de biais; long, wide from the shoulder to the arm, and close ainsi que les nouds; la passe de dessous garnie de fitting from thence to the wrist, ornamented with nauds même ; a la couture de la manche se retrouve cinq of the same material as the dress. A cut Leghorn hat, crevés diminuant graduellement depuis le haut jusqu'au open shape, high square crown, ornamented with a fea bas; egalement des næuds dans chaque intervalle. ther. The hair separated over the forehead en bandeau. Ces manches peuvent se faire à une robe ordinaire ;
FIGURE 11.-EVENING DRESS - A silk dress, point- | puis, on place des nouds sur le devant de la pélerine ed corsage draped across the breast, the plaits supported depuis le cou jusqu'à la ceinture, et à la pointe est un by a band; the sleeves short and forming bouffans or naud à pans. namented with pattes, under which is passed a gauze On fait aussi des doubles bouffans, séparés par un scarf figuring crevés over the shoulders; the skirt plain, neud de taffetas glacé.—Les mêmes rubans sont jolis A silk hat, open shape, low flat crown trimmed with a pour attacher les pélerines et les mantelets, et sont plus gauze ribbon noud edged with lace, the ends forming distingués que les rabans de gaze. brides, and ornamented with two ostrich feathers.
La mode des capotes à coulisses s'est étendue cette FIGURE III.-WALKING Dress.--A muslin redingote année aux gros de Naples uni; mais elles doivent être lined with gros de Naples, close fitting corsage, round très-simples, aussi simples que celles d'enfant : elles pelerine edged with lace; the sleeves ornamented from doivent être ou très petites, relevées; ou grandes, avancees, the elbow to the wrist; an embroidered muslin che garnies, d'une ruche. misette. A rice straw hat, ornamented with roses and Les châles de foulard grenadine, soie forte en tissu dandelion.
clair, sont parfaitement portés, à fond noir ou foncé, First Hat & Back View.-A rice straw hat, close fleurs vives a ramages, une frange de soie tout autour. shape, gros de Naples crown, ornamented with ribbon On fait des écharpes en gaze du Japon; étoffe croisée coques and pinks.
en soie brillante, également à fond noir préférablement Second HAT & BACK VIEW.-A crape hat, small à tout autre.
Les ombrelles les plus élégantes, cet été, sont en pou
MISCELLANEA. de soie wil de corbeau, solitaire très-clair, écrui, ou vert
Isis.--Alluding to the antique mode of symbolising the anglais. Nerdier, rue Richelieu, les monte à månches
mysterions nature which is at the heart of all things, and con. de laurier de Chine ou de peau de serpens imitant l'epine. nects all things into one whole, Professor Kant remarks,“ that Les petits accidens de bois qui se trouvent dans le haut perhaps in all human composition there is no passage of greater des manches, se retrouvent également à la partie du bas;
sublimity, nor among sublime thought any which has been
more sublimely expressed, than that which occurs in the in. une petite plaque et des yeux d'or uni sont mieux que
scri tion upon the Temple of Isis (the Great Mother-Nature): l'or travaillé; une petite ganse de soie brune est nouée I am whatsoever is-whutsoever shall be : and the veil which is retombant en longs bouts terminés par de petits glands over my countenance, no mortal hand hath ever raised.” de bois ; l'anneau et les bouts des baleines sont en bois Prussian Burial Places. The cemeteries in this part of poli.
Germany are kept with great neatness. Every grave is in
general a flower-bed. I walked out one morning to the great Negliges.---Le blanc distingue les plus jolis négligés.
cemetery of Berlin, to see the tomb of Klaproth, which is On emploie toujours pour peignors beaucoup d'étoffes merely a cross, and announces uothing but his name and age. en mousseline anglaise, à raies ou à carreaux blanc sur Close by, an elderly-looking woman, in decent mourning, was blanc; une raie mate auprès d'une raie claire; des
watering the flowers with which she had planted the grave of carreaux clairs encadrés dans des lignes mates. Les
an only danghter-(as the sexton afterwards told me-who
had been interred the preceding week. The grave formed pélerines sont indispensables avec ces redingotes, qui nearly a square of about five feet. It was divided into little doivent toujours être garnies d'une petite valencienne beds, all dressed and kept with the ntmost care, and adorned qui badine autour des pélerines et des devans de la robe.
with the simplest flowers. Evergreens, intermingled with Les peignoirs ou redingotes en jaconas ou en mou.
daisies, were ranged round the borders; little clumps of violets
and forget-me-not were scattered in the interior; and in the seline doivent être entièrement bordés d'un ourlet à jour,
centre a solitary lily hung down its languishing blossom. The qui, au bas du jupon, comme sur les deux côtés du broken-hearted mother had just watered it, and tied it to a devant, ne doit plus avoir que la hauteur d'une main.
small stick, to secure it against the wind: at her side lay the Au-dessus de l'ourlet serpente une petite broderie au
weeds which she had rooted out. She went round the whole
spot again and again, anxiously pulling up every blade of plumetis : soit un petit dessin, une feuille de myrte, grass-then gazed for a few seconds on the grave-pat the une chaîne de muguet ou de boutons de roses. Ces weeds into her apron-took up her little watering pot-walked peignoirs forment de très-grands plis autour de la taille;
towards the gate-returned again, to see that her lily was
secure-and, at last, as the suppressed tear began to start, ils sont assez profonds et rapprochés pour donner beau
hurried out of the church-yard. coup de bouffans à la jupe, qui, du reste, peut avoir,
If a man cannot attain the length of his wishes, he may have jusqu'à trois aunes et demie de largeur. Les manches his remedy by cutting them shorter. se font toujours dans la même coupe, seulement on les
Italian Women.-Italy and England are undonbtedly pos. fait beaucoup moins étroites du bas lorsque la robe est sessed of a greater share of female beauty than any other très-négligée ; au bas odu poignet est une petite man conntry in Europe. But the English and Italian beauties, chette plissée, ou une valencienne cousue à plat.
although both interesting, are very different from one another, Des redingotes en mousseline fond blanc à petits des
The former are unrivalled for the delicacy and bloom of their
complexions, the smoothness and mild expression of their sins de couleur, se garnissent tout autour d'une valen
features, their modest carriage, and the cleanliness of their cienne.
persons and dress; these are qualities which strike every LINGERIE.---Les manteaux de nuit sont presque entière
foreigner at his landing. On my first arrival in England, I
was asked by a friend how I liked the English women; to ment supplantés par les chemises de nuit, qui ont beau
which I replied that I thought them all handsome. This is coup de recherche dans leurs coupes comme dans leurs
the first impression they produce. There is an air of calmness garnitures. On les fait à-peu-près comme des chemises and pensiveness about them, which surprises and interests d'homme, montantes, ouvertes sur le devant de la poi. |
particularly a native of the south. They seem to look, if I trine, et ornées d'un petit jabot en batiste plissée. Les
may apply to them the fine lines of one of their living poets--épaulettes sont formées par une pièce, comme aux
With eyes so pure, that from the ray peignoirs ; un grand collet carré et rabattu, garni d'un
Dark vice would turn abash'd away; plissé, descend jusqu'aux épaules, tandis que trois
Yet fill'd with all youth's sweet desires, petites garnitures semblables forment ruche autour du
Mingling the meek and vestal fires cou. Les manches sont assez larges et montées sur un
Of other world's, with all the bliss petit poignet entouré d'une manchette. D'autres, plus
The fond weak tenderness of this. élégants, ont le devant de la poitrine détaché et froncé The Italian beauties are of a different kind. Their features au bas de la taille, sur un poignet; depuis le collet
are more regular, more animated; their complexions bear the jusqu á ce poignet, toute la partie qui couvre la
marks of a warmer sun, and their eyes seem to participate of
its fires; their carriage is graceful and noble; they have poitrine est formée par des entre deux brodés, séparés
generally good figures; they are not indeed angelic forms, but par un doigt de la batiste de la chemise, plissée à petits they are earthly Venuses. It has been supposed by some, plits. Il se trouve ainsi de chaque côté trois ou quatre
that the habitual view of those models of ideal beauty, the lignes d'entre-deux. Au lieu d'un jahot de batiste, on
Greek statues, with which Italy abounds, may be an indirect
cause, conducing to the general beauty of the sex; be that as fronce une valencienne qui se retrouve autour du collet
it may, I think the five features and beautiful forms of the et au bas des poignets, qui doivent être brodés. Beau Italian fair have a great influence upon the minds of young coup de femmes portent au matin ces jolies chemises qui
artists, and this is perhaps one of the principal reasons why tiennent lieu de jupons et de chemisettes en-dessous de
Italy has so long excelled in figure painters. A handsome
female countenance, animated by the expression of the soul, leurs peignoirs.
is among the finest works of naiure; the sight of it elevates the mind, and kindles the sparks of genius. Raphael took the models of his charming Madonnas from natnre. Titian, Guido, Caracci, and others, derived their ideas of female beauty from the exquisite countenances so frequent in their native country.