« AnteriorContinuar »
A MOTHER'S LOVE.
Love! love !—There are soft smiles and gentle words,
BIANCA DI GONZAGA.
possession of her ducal dignity, she had been affianced to a prince whose dominions bordered on her own, and it weighed on her heart that he should coldly desert her when surrounded by her enemies : hence arose the air of sadness that clouded her marble brow when the stranger first surveyed her in the halls of Venice. It was true she had never seen the prince; that he had never knelt at her feet to breathe his passion : but from infancy she had heard him spoken of as one who was to be her future husband, and in that belief had hung on every tale of his growing valour which had reached the court of Pisa. Report spoke him generous, feel. ing, enthusiastic, noble, and Bianca was in love with his image
The stranger approached her, and commenced a discourse to divert her melancholy, in which he displayed powers of conversation but seldom rivalled. Bianca's eyes were soon lightened with a smile, and she replied, on her part, in a manner at once natural, easy, and graceful. A young Venetian noble, who had in vain pressed his suit with her since her arrival at the city, was offended at the evident gratification with which she listened to the words of a stranger, and, approaching, joined in the conversation, in a manner which partook of the nature of insult. Bianca blushed with indignation; the stranger levelled at the young patri. cian a bitter sarcasm, which, unable to answer in any other way, he replied to with a blow. Swords were drawn, and ere the gay crowd around them could separate the combatants, the Venetian received a wound in his right arm that disqualified him for fighting for a year at least.
Such hazard undergone in her cause rendered it impossible for Bianca to refuse giving the stranger a ge-: geral invitation to her palazzo, even if she had been previously indisposed to the measure. It was given, and the stranger, for the next month, was always at her side. Her partner in the dance, her companion in the song, he displayed a perfection in these accomplishments which few could boast. In a week or two his songs, however, began to torn always on love ; his guitar was never touched but to some plaintive tune, in which a despairing knight was the subject, who accused the cruelty of his lady. Bianca began to repent her encouragement of him, for, knowing nothing of him save his person and accomplishments, and being betrothed to another, she was by no means pleased at such close attention.
One evening as she was seated at a window overlooking the Grand Canal, on which many busy gondolas, in their black coverings, might be seen gliding past, the stranger approached on his usual visit. A short conversation ensued; and, after a few minutes, bend. ing one knee on the velvet footstool of Bianca, he made a declaration of love. The suddenness of the address surprised her: in a hurried manner she stated the many objections to the match; her want of knowledge of his family, his fortune, and his character; the espousals which at an early age had made her the affianced bride of the prince Adorno. At the end of her speech the stranger's eyes flashed with joy; he implored her to pardon the deception that love alone had caused, and avowed himself the prince.
That single word overruled every objection. It at once silenced every doubt as to his birth-he drew it from one of the loft est lines in Italy; and though bis fortune consisted bui of a paternal estate, and a sword
The annals of Venice record that towards the conclusion of the sixteenth century there arrived at that celebrated city a lonely stranger, who speedily purchased one of the most gorgeous pallazzi, near the Rialto, on the Grand Canal, and hired a train of domestics, whom he attired in the most splendid manner.
At that time a new doge was just elected, and a sumptuous feast was prepared on the occasion. In some of the old chronicles a very minute account is given of the riches of the masquerade, the delicacies of the banquet, the exquisiteness of the music, and the consequent approbation of the numerous guests. Amongst these was our mysterious stranger.
He wandered about amidst the crowds of splendid masques with a vacant and careless air, till he approached the lovely Bianca di Gonzaga, at that time the loadstar of all the eyes of Venice. At the sight of her his hitherto listless features were animated with a dark and fiery glance, and he bent on her a look in which the most powerful interest was deeply expressed.
Bianca di Gonzaga was indeed a lady never to be passed without interest. Even if her figure had been less faultless, her countenance less heavenly, the mournful circumstances of her sad story would have fixed attention. The descendant of a line of the most powerful nobles in Italy, she had at one time been duchess of Pisa. A rebellion had arisen in her do. minions, and a young baron had driven her from her throne to seat himself upon it. Alone, deserted by all her former friends, she had fed to Venice; where her misfortunes met with sympathy, while her beauty excited admiration. But the kindness of friendship could not efface the remembrance of love.. Whilst in
NO. XXXIII.-VOL. III.
that had already gleamed in numerous battles, his fame far outweighed every paltry objection on that account. As soon as Bianca knew that she saw before her the young hero whom she had loved before she saw him, she at once resigned herself to joy, and consented to become his bride.
“ And yet," said she, as she surveyed the manly figure before her, “ they did not picture thee to me as thou art. They spoke of blue eyes-thine are black as the raven's wing; of light fair hair-how jetty is thine!”
• Doubtest thou that I am the prince?" said the stranger reproachfully: “ behold, then, these proofs !" As he spoke, he produced a letter to the prince Adorno, and another signed with his name. The former was from a friend, and informed him of the rebellions by which Bianca had been driven from the ducal throne, concluding with an earnest request that he would return instantly from his travels and assert her rights ; the latter stated his determination of replacing her in her dominions. “ This," said the stranger, as he presented it, “ I have yet found no means of forwarding."
the documents by Bianca, who recognized the hand-writing, the stranget, again addressing her, besought her to consent to a plan he had formed for the nuptials. As there were so many of her lovers at Venice, he wished to spare them the mortification of seeing her become his bride, and besought her to consent to set out for his castle. A lingering consent was wrung from Bianca, and it was agreed that next day they should sail down the river, and, landing at some point near his domains, proceed thither as fast as possible.
The next morning was one of exquisite beauty. Never was there a more cloudless sky or a brighter sun. The blue waves of the Adriatic seemed bluer than ever; the river, with its banks clothed with trees and verdure, was a perfect paradise. Embarked in a gallant gondola, with a numerous train of domesties, the stranger and Bianca sailed down towards Pisa; and when evening was approaching, the lady half trembled as she saw, rising on one side of the stream, the domains of which she had once been duchess. At length they approached where, from the rocks that frowned above, a descent of steps, hewn in the solid stone, conducted to a broad landing-place. At the sight of this spot the stranger turned from Bianca, with whom he had been conversing, and wound a bugle-horn that hung by his side. A strange suspicion crossed the mind of the Lady di Gonzaga, as, in reply to this sound, another of a precisely similar nature was heard above, and a hundred men came tramping down the rocky pass, fully armed and weaponed. Alas! these suspicions were but too true! The stranger caught hold of her in one arm, as he drew his sword with the other, and leaped on shore from the prow of the gondola. Safe on the land, he flung Bianca to the newly-arrived soldiers, with a command to load her with chains. “ Farewell!” he exclaimed to the domestics in the boat; “ and back to Venice as fast as you can. There, if the Doge asks you the reason of my conduct, tell him, that for a month, without his knowledge, his deadliest enemy dwelt within his walls- tell him, to plunge him in despair, that he might have seized, but did not, Malvezzi, Duke of Pisa!”
The wretched Bianca had been at first petrified át
the conduct of the pretended prince; his concluding avowal opened her eyes to the misery of her situation, The villanous Malvezzi, so glittering without and so evil within; the unprincipled usurper to a throne to which he had not the slightest claim; had in reality, as she conjectured, intercepted some real letters of Prince Adorno's, declaring his intention of exciting a struggle in her favor. In the fear of being intercepted, Malvezzi had determined to attempt to gain her affections in disguise, and thus at once destroy every future idea of resistance to his power. A month had he spent in this task, and he imagined that Bianca's heart must have been melted by his numerous attractions. In this belief he declared his love. What was his surprise to hear her confess her affection for Adorno! The strongest dissimulation, a vice which Italian statesmen at that period almost considered a virtue, could only prevent the hatred he instantly conceived for the duchess from glaring in his deceitful countenance. His presence of mind suggested the thought of counterfeiting the prince. The intercepted letters which he still bore about him readily furnished him with the means of strengthening the imposture, in which he was unhappily but
to him that day at the hundred steps. The result was such as has already been detailed.
The outlines of this dark and iniquitous scheme Aashed across the mind of Bianca, ás chains were placed upon her delicate hands, and, guarded by the band of Pisan soldiers, she mounted the hundred steps. As the villanous Malvezzi followed, she darted at him a glance that almost, like that of the fabled basilisk, possessed the power to kill, but not a word of complaint burst from her lips, though her heart was full of torture. To what dark dungeon was she now to be born by her rebellious subjects? Her eye asked the question, though her lips moved not. Malvezzi, as they attained the summit of the lofty rock, pointed to a gigantic castle glooming over the distant woodland landscape, else. where splendidly illuminated by the rays of the setting sun, and said, in an accent of scorn, “ There is your prison."
Bianca recognized the time-worn fortress. In her youth, her father had once shown her the castle, from battlement to donjon keep. It contained the mort loathsome dungeons in Pisa—dwellings, where the wretched state-prisoners, who were confined there, clasping the duke's knees, implored, as a mercy, to be led to execution. Melting with pity, she had implored and obtained that they should be removed to more lightsome prisons, and that no one should henceforth be confined there How little at that time had she thought that it would ever be her own lot to be immured in these dreary dungeons! Her heart sank within her as they approached, and she burst intó tears. From the mountain which they were descending, the palace of Prince Adorno was visible, and the reflection that perhaps he might at that moment be within her ken, unknowing her fate, made her tears flow still faster.
Malvezzi, meanwhile, was conversing with a soldier. who gave him some important information.
The Prince Adorno was in reality returned-report said that he was assembling his vassals to invade Pisa--that he had sent a messenger to Venice to inform Bianca of his arrival and intentions. “ The lagging fool!" said Malvezzi, with scorn: “ had he but been a day sooner
my plans had fallen to nought-perhaps I might at
sceptre of her parternal dominions, and was not the this moment have been crossing the Bridge of Sighs. worse princess that she had once known adversity. By this time the Council of Ten must know Bianca's There are few persons who cannot picture to themselves, disappearance, and be conjecturing the cause-they without assistance, the festivities attending her entrance shall soon be informed."
into the city, and the magnificence of her nuptials Night was now sinking, and the heavy walls of the with the Prince Adorno, still more worthy in reality castle were almost towering above them. As they rode than fame proclaimed him. up the rocky path, at whose summit frowned its black battlements, the warder's voice echoed through the pass " Who comes there?" " A friend from Venice," cried Malvezzi exultingly,
THE CHAPLET. “Welcome !" said the warder ; "you have been im
To form a garland for my lovely maid, patiently expected. By'r Lady, your expedition is
I culled the sweetest flowers of fairest bue; miraculous."
When genial Spring her earliest blooms displayed, The heavy drawbridge dropped suddenly over the And summer's brightest beanties met my view.
The modest primrose wet with vernal dew, moat, the portcullis was raised with a grating sound,
The lily, emblem of her spotless miod, and Malvezzi entered, leading Bianca, trembling, with
of Innocence, in Eden only found, him. As his band were following he heard a struggle The half-blown rose its blushing sweets combined ; behind.—The portcullis was dropped—the drawbridge
The simple wreath with Love's green myrtles twined: raised.-"Some idle quarrel," fiercely muttered Mal
This fragrant chaplet on her brows I bound,
And smiled to hear my gentle Laura say, vezzi. “ This garrison is the worst disciplined in Pisa." “ These blushing flowrets, breathing odours round, And so saying, he strode haughtily onward through Like me, are but the blossom of a day; the dark passage that led to the great hall of the frontier But Innocence shall live till time itself decay." garrison.
In the hall a large table was spread, and torches were placed in the immense iron candlesticks, that shed
THE DRAMA. a broad flashing light through the apartment. But no one was as yet assembled at the banquet. * Fellow !" The Theatrical World is in a state of agitation. cried Malvezzi to an attendant, striding into a neigh- The great establishments cleave to their patent rights bouring room, “send your commander hither."
and privileges, with the desperate pertinacity common The miserable Bianca, whom Malvezzi had never,
to the tribe of monopolists, while the minors as firmly from the moment of the warder's challenge, suffered to
and resolutely demand to be allowed to share in the escape from his grasp, sunk, overpowered, into a
advantages derivable from a selection of the produc: chair, whilst the villain, scarcely concealing his plea- tions taken from the widest range of the drama. We sure, surveyed from the great window the rising moon,
deny in toto that Shakespeare cannot either be prothat, having emerged from the black clouds which had
duced or understood in any other atmosphere than that for some minutes obscured it, now cast a bright radiance
of Drury Lane or Covent Garden. Who but the blind. into the room. Exulting in the success of his treacher
est enemy of improvement, will contend that the finer ous plans, he scarcely heard the door open behind him; touches of feeling, those points in which Shakespeare, but the step of an armed foot in the room aroused him that most studious reader of the book of nature de. from his reverie. Hastily turning round, what was his lighted, and that require first-rate genius and nice astonishment to behold a warrior, in complete steel, discrimination to embody? who can assert that the stand between him and the entrance, indignation and delicate and more subdued emotions of the soul, -50 surprise painted in his noble countenance. At the same well understood by a late lamented tragedian,-can moment that the exclamation of “ Malvezzi" burst come home to the hearts of an audience more comfrom the lips of the stranger, Malvezzi himself, start
pletely in the immense arenas of the two patent houses, ing back a few paces, uttered with astonishment the
than in the walls of a smaller theatre,—such for inword “ Adorno."
stance as the Haymarket — Well do we remember the “ Yes! Adorno," cried the prince, “ Adorno, who
effect of Kean's most pathetic points, however fine and comes to wrest the throne of Pisa from the usurper." heart-stirring were all his bursts of passion, we always “ By heavens ! this exceeds my hopes," shouted the
thought that he far excelled in pathos.-Without retreacherous bravo : “ yield thyself, for it is imposible ference to the contested claims of either party, we to escape. My guards are all around.”
would reverse the system; let the huge theatres keep They were this morning," said the prince,“ but
their pageants, their ballets, their monkeys, and their the strong detachment' sent off to the hundred steps melo-dramas, but give our immɔrtal bard a chance enabled me to attack the castle with success.
It is now where his more tender beauties can be best appreciated in the possession of Bianca di Gonzaga.
“ Yield thee,
in houses of more limited dimensions. or die!"
The Italian Opera season terminated about a fortThe astonished Malvezzi, fixed like a statue, heard night since; "heavy losses;" “ grievous falling off;" the fatal intelligence. At length, suddenly rushing “ £30,000 out of pocket;" are resounded throughout forward, he endeavoured to stab Adorno; but the the London press; we who identify ourselves with the prince wrenching the dagger from his grasp, laid him public, and who are seldom troubled about what is prostrate at his feet. With a groan of agony the going on behind the curtain, assume not an intimate Wretch expired, whilst Adorno supported his fainting knowledge of the disbursements and receipts, yet we Bianca.
know enough to contradict these over-rated statements; The news of Malvezzi's death opened the gates of one thing does generally enter into the calculation, that Pisa to the duchess. She long and happily swayed the Laporte's affairs can hardly be said to be balanced,
NO. XXXIII.-VOL. III.
INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM
until the arrears of divers noble and titled box- in brilliant lamps 45 feet high! and more than all, a owners shall have been settled, which are
speech from the great original himself more brilliant temptible consideration, and which too often swell that than the lamps, more unctuous than the oil that filled dolorous list of the manager's ledger, headed “ Bad
them. Debts." Were we to examine his claims to public favor, we must concede him much merit for securing so LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS great a concentration of talent. But here our eulogium
FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES ceases, and we acknowledge his deficiency in the direction of the varied powers of his performers. With the most efficient auxiliaries at command, he neglected
« Le Petit Courrier des Dames"_" Journal des to bring out the compositions of the great composers,
Dames et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et
L'Indiscret”- -" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"-" Le or when produced, most frequently mutilated them. With the greatest resources, his operas were usually of
Mercure des Salons," &c. &c. the most ordinary merit. The stupidest ballet ever Dresses.-It is in vain that we try to discover any conceived, were occasionally made the medium of dis- thing novel in the make of dresses at the present time, playing the accomplishments of the most graceful we have visited the first-rate dress makers shew rooms, dancers, and of the most skilful in the expression of those noted for their taste and variety, but our researches pantomimic action. Let Laporte in his next season were fruitless, their talent seems to be on the repose at wed the creative power of the higher authors to the present. mimic skill of the actor--such we have a right to ex- We noticed at the last representation at the King's pect at the King's Theatre, and there is little doubt of Theatre, a very handsome half mourning dress, comsuch a management securing remunerative patronage. posed of black pou de soie, over which was a mantelet
The Haymarket, notwithstanding the temporary ab- of British point lace, trimmed round the neck with a sence of “ the only salmon in the market;" through falling lace figuring a collar: a black taffeta ribbon the determination of Morris to give entertainments of descending over the neck, was disposed en næud on the a varied and excellent description, still continues ex- chest; the lappels were not fastened. A rice-straw hat tremely attractive. Mr. Farren's illness suspended for lined with black and circled round the crown with a time the run of Nicholas Flam, which character he three black taffeta ribbons. Black silk stockings, so admirably sustained, but to make up we suppose for open worked, and gros de Naples shoes. the deficiency, we enjoyed the heart-thrilling and power- Wide sleeves terminated by a wide wristband, are ful tones of Mad. Malibran, who was introduced to sing becoming every day more fashionable, and will there is some of her most popular songs. Pyramus and Thisbe, no doubt entirely supersede the close fitting sleeves an amusing piece of absurdity, with no similarity to which have now lasted for three years. the beautiful original, caused at all events many a Pockets are no longer a novelty; they have hitherto hearty laugh, and we leave it to its glory.
appeared only with neglige or demi-toilets. The Adelphi with its Reeve, rages and roars of A very pretty pelerine for morning toilets is comlaughter, continues to draw after its old fashion, we posed of plain tulle, without trimming or embroidery. marvel that fatal cases do not more frequently occur
The first is buttoned in front over the chest; is straight through excess of laughter, a jury must in such cases cut and without points. The second is also rounded in return their verdict-Died by the visitation of the front: the third forms a collar. These pelerines exAdelphi!” The “ Yeoman's Daughter;" by Serle, is tremely light and transparent, are very becoming when a drama of no common merit, and admirably sustained. worn over a coloured múslin dress : light cravats only
To Sadler's Wells, which we had not for a consider- should be worn with these pelerines, such as a grenadine able time visited, we last week directed our steps. ribbon or a point of Dona Maria gauze. Peerless Pool which was still running successfully, it
MANTELETS.-Black lace mantelets are made of were needless to criticise, having long since obtained various shapes, but that most generally adopted, forms the suffrages of the frequenters of this theatre. a round pelerine behind, and long lappels in front. may observe however that the grouping of the living Some have plain grounds, bordered with detached pictures introduced during the piece was admirably bouquets, and edged with a blond that widens on the managed, and must please the most fastidious. In shoulders by means of a tulle sewed on the edge of the Eily O'Connor, a domestic drama, of no inconsiderable lace, and concealed by a second trimming hanging over interest, some of the scenes are forcible and striking, it; this second row of trimming does not extend beyond without violating probability. The company well as- the shoulders. Round the neck a falling lace, under sorted, and our evening's entertainment far exceeded which is a ribbon which is tied in front, or a ruche, our expectations.
and sometimes a square collar. Many mantelets are At Vauxhall every thing has been regarded as flat, seen with the ruche extending to the extremity of the stale and unprofitable, when put into competition with lappels in front. the all absorbing interest created in the public mind by Coloured taffeta mantelets trimmed with black lace, the benefit of the irresistible Simpson. But as not one have been made in some of our first houses. of our subscribers within twenty miles of London EnsemBLE DE TOILETTES.-For demi-toilets, white could possibly have been absent, (they would marshal muslin and organdi are much employed; short sleeves, at least 5,000,) we have only to announce the interest- with mittens, and scarf of black lace. A white organdi ing fact of this unprecedented event, for the informa- dress with deep cut corsuge is often trimmed with a tion of our more remote readers. Only think of the deep black lace caught up en draperie, and fastened in portrait of Mr. Simpson, “ 35 years master of the the middle by a rich brooch. ceremonies at the Royal Gardens, Vauxhall," was hung A sulpliar coloured muslin dress, the corsage deep
with embroidered dots, lined with lilac taffeta, and ornamented with a branch of lilac displayed on one side : these hats are sometimes edged with a ruche of tulle, but the prettiest have a deep lace or demi veil.
The greatest novelty at present is a puce-coloured gros de Naples capote with green ribbons; the shapes are oval, and ornamented with a bouquet of heartsease or a green rose. Heartsease is very pretty on
a white hat. Mignonette and turnsols are very becoming on white
cut round the shoulders; the sleeves short, trimmed with a ruche of black silk net; the ceinture of sulphur coloured gauze with black stripes, and fastened on the side ; black mittens; a bouquet of scented peas on the head.
A pale green pou de soie dress, with a sprinkling of 'small white embroidered flowers. A double mantilla of British point lace with long sleeves of the same material, ornamented from the shoulder to the wrist with green gauze nouds.
A black lace wrapper, ornamented with the most antique designs, richly embroidered border figuring shells, filled up with various open worked points; the ground was a semé or sprinkling in the old style; a pelerine and a falling collar, ornamented with a similar border and ground as the skirt; very wide sleeves completed this wrapper, which was lined with rosecoloured pou de soie, iced; the ceinture was a rosecoloured wide taffeta ribbon, bordered with black lace shells, the ends long, fastened en næud in front.
A very handsome toilet is a turquoise-blue silk muslin dress, the skirt open in front in a fan-like shape, ‘over the under petticoat of pou de soie of the same colour, to which it is fastened by black gauze nouds; the corsayesin pointe, is trimmed with a black lace mantilla, as also the short sleeves with sabots. White satin shoes and black mittens. The hair turned up behind in plaited tresses, with a tuft of screw curls projecting in front à la Mincini, supported by a bandeau of turquoises. A turquoise suite.
Another very pretty toilet was an India muslin dress, trimmed with hand embroidered volants, with a man. tilla similar to the corsage. A small open shaped hat of sky blue crape, trimmed with a ruche and ornamented with a bouquet of white feathers. A string of fine pearls round the neck.
Cuildren's Dresses.--It is difficult to make much variety in children's dresses; young ladies' dresses are still made short and full wide, with trowsers of striped jaconot, edged with a narrow lace. The dress is of the same material, also edged with narrow lace; the waist long; the sleeves long, and a pelerine slightly gathered round the neck and trimmed with lace. We have seen children in arms with short sleeves and open worked black silk mittens, An embroidered muslim dress, lined with rose-coloured taffeta ; deep cut corsage edged round the bust and the ceinture with narrow lace; the trowsers of the same materials, and similarly trimmed and lined. A rose-coloured gauze fichu on the neck. A small muslin capote, embroidered and lined like the dress, descending over the cheeks, but uncovering the forehead. The hair disposed in large curls, fell over the neck and shoulders.
Hats & CAPOTES---They have but slightly varied in shape since our last appearance. They are still placed far back on the head. Tho crowns narrow, but less pointed than at the beginning of the season. Capote shapes are short and closed on the cheeks. 'Those of hats are more open.
The interior lightly ornamented. The fashion of small ruche caps worn under hats, dispenses with all other accessaries.
Chintzed taffeta ribbon is much employed in Leghorn hats, lilac and white, lilac and green, rose and white or chintzed different colours, and sprinkled with shapeless flowers.
Embroidered muslin hats lined with rose or blue gauze, are numerous : we have seen one of organdi
Flowers are not much employed on rice-straw hats, for morning or promenade toilets, they are trimmed with taffeta ribbons.
Black crape hats are in general trimmed with rosecoloured ribbons; a few with black ribbon mixed with blue, pale-yellow, green and cherry colour.
We have seen a very tasteful hat of rice-straw, lined with apple-green, ornamented with two branches of vervain, trimmed with white gauze ribbon with a light border of light apple-green designs.
CAPs.—Many muslin or tulle caps are made with the trimming in front disposed à la Marie Stuart. This trimming is composed of two or three rows of rulle or lace forming a ruche, figuring a rounded pointe over the forehead and arched in half circles on each side; the interior of these circles, or butterflies, is filled by noeuds, or with tufts of hair, instead of nouds; cut ribbon ends are sometimes disposed in the shape of palins; a ribbon ornament similarly disposed is placed in the middle of the cap above the trimmings, from which originates the brides or ties.
We have also seen some small black blond caps, lined with rose-coloured gauze; the front, trimmed with a blond ruche placed far back, and under this ruche, rosecoloured ribbon coques or cut ribbon ends, forming garland over the forehead.
The small caps a la Juive are composed of embroidered muslin; the trimming is a flat-laid lace over the forehead, slightly gathered on each side, and form. ing a small tuft; a muslin band edged with lace form the brides, pass under the chin and are fastened under one of the sides.
COIFFURES.-We have no novelty to notice in coiffures. The hair is still separated in smooth bardeaux over the forehead, and a tress forming couronne on the head. A few ladies have adopted on each side of the face, a long screw-curl falling below the ear. This coiffure is becoming to regular features only. Tresses à la Clotilde falling in half-circles on the cheeks, somewhat in the shape of a horse shoe, are very numerous.
MATERIALS AND Colours.-British foulards are in colonades, arabesks, and others with flowered designs. French foulards are all with Turkish designs.
Small Turkish designs are also in great vogue for chalis.
For dress-toilets, black or white lace is displayed over silk materials.
Nothing that we have hitherto seen, the so much admired chalis, nor the glowing coloured foulurds, nor the innumerable hundreds of tissues of all colours that have hitherto appeared, can be put in competition, or rival with the satin du Levant, a new material which has just appeared at Mr. Gagelin's at Paris. It is a rich, soft, silky and brilliant : material, the shades are fine and beautiful, the designs novel and