Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

A MOTHER'S LOVE.

Love! love!-There are soft smiles and gentle words,
And there are faces, skilful to put on

The look we trust in-and 'tis mockery all!-
A faithless mist, a desert-vapour, wearing
The brightness of clear waters, thus to cheat
The thirst that semblance kindled! There is none,
In all this cold and hollow world-no fount
Of deep, strong, deathless love, save that within
A mother's heart.—It is but pride, wherewith
To his fair sou the father's eye doth turn,
Watching his growth. Ay, on the boy he looks,
The bright clad creature springing in his path,
But as the heir of his great name, the young,
And stately tree, whose rising strength ere long
Shall bear his trophies well.-And this is love!
This is man's love!-What marvel?—You ne'er made
Your breast the pillow of his infancy,
While to the fulness of your heart's glad heavings
His fair cheek rose and fell; and his bright hair
Waved softly to your breath!-You ne'er kept watch
Beside him, till the last pale star had set,
And morn all dazzling as in triumph, broke
On your dim weary eye; not your's the face
Which early faded through fond care for him,
Hung o'er his sleep, and duly, as Heaven's light,
Was there to greet his wakening. You ne'er smoothed
His couch, ne'er sung him to his rosy rest,
Caught his least whisper, when his voice from your's
Had learned soft utterance; pressed your lip to his,
When fever parched it; hushed his wayward cries,
With patient, vigilant, never-wearied love!
No! these are woman's tasks!-In these her youth
And bloom of cheek, and buoyancy of heart,
Steal from her all unmarked!

BIANCA DI GONZAGA.

THE annals of Venice record that towards the conclusion of the sixteenth century there arrived at that celebrated city a lonely stranger, who speedily purchased one of the most gorgeous pallazzi, near the Rialto, on the Grand Canal, and hired a train of domestics, whom he attired in the most splendid manner.

He wan

At that time a new doge was just elected, and a sumptuous feast was prepared on the occasion. In some of the old chronicles a very minute account is given of the riches of the masquerade, the delicacies of the banquet, the exquisiteness of the music, and the consequent approbation of the numerous guests. Amongst these was our mysterious stranger. dered about amidst the crowds of splendid masques with a vacant and careless air, till he approached the lovely Bianca di Gonzaga, at that time the loadstar of all the eyes of Venice. At the sight of her his hitherto listless features were animated with a dark and fiery glance, and he bent on her a look in which the most powerful interest was deeply expressed.

Bianca di Gonzaga was indeed a lady never to be passed without interest. Even if her figure had been less faultless, her countenance less heavenly, the mournful circumstances of her sad story would have fixed attention. The descendant of a line of the most powerful nobles in Italy, she had at one time been duchess of Pisa. A rebellion had arisen in her dominions, and a young baron had driven her from her throne to seat himself upon it. Alone, deserted by all her former friends, she had fled to Venice; where her misfortunes met with sympathy, while her beauty excited admiration. But the kindness of friendship could not efface the remembrance of love. Whilst in NO. XXXIII.—VOL. III.

possession of her ducal dignity, she had been affianced to a prince whose dominions bordered on her own, and it weighed on her heart that he should coldly desert her when surrounded by her enemies: hence arose the air of sadness that clouded her marble brow when the stranger first surveyed her in the halls of Venice. It was true she had never seen the prince; that he had never knelt at her feet to breathe his passion: but from infancy she had heard him spoken of as one who was to be her future husband, and in that belief had hung on every tale of his growing valour which had reached the court of Pisa. Report spoke him generous, feeling, enthusiastic, noble, and Bianca was in love with his image

The stranger approached her, and commenced a discourse to divert her melancholy, in which he displayed powers of conversation but seldom rivalled. Bianca's eyes were soon lightened with a smile, and she replied, on her part, in a manner at once natural, easy, and graceful. A young Venetian noble, who had in vain pressed his suit with her since her arrival at the city, was offended at the evident gratification with which she listened to the words of a stranger, and, approaching, joined in the conversation, in a manner which partook of the nature of insult. Bianca blushed with indignation; the stranger levelled at the young patrician a bitter sarcasm, which, unable to answer in any other way, he replied to with a blow. Swords were drawn, and ere the gay crowd around them could separate the combatants, the Venetian received a wound in his right arm that disqualified him for fighting for a year at least.

Such hazard undergone in her cause rendered it impossible for Bianca to refuse giving the stranger a gegeral invitation to her palazzo, even if she had been previously indisposed to the measure. It was given, and the stranger, for the next month, was always at her side. Her partner in the dance, her companion in the song, he displayed a perfection in these accomplishments which few could boast. In a week or two his songs, however, began to turn always on love; his guitar was never touched but to some plaintive tune, in which a despairing knight was the subject, who accused the cruelty of his lady. Bianca began to repent her encouragement of him, for, knowing nothing of him save his person and accomplishments, and being betrothed to another, she was by no means pleased at such close attention.

One evening as she was seated at a window overlooking the Grand Canal, on which many busy gondolas, in their black coverings, might be seen gliding past, the stranger approached on his usual visit. A short conversation ensued; and, after a few minutes, bending one knee on the velvet footstool of Bianca, he made a declaration of love. The suddenness of the address surprised her in a hurried manner she stated the many objections to the match; her want of knowledge of his family, his fortune, and his character; the espousals which at an early age had made her the affianced bride of the prince Adorno. At the end of her speech the stranger's eyes flashed with joy; he implored her to pardon the deception that love alone had caused, and avowed himself the prince.

That single word overruled every objection. It at once silenced every doubt as to his birth-he drew it from one of the loftiest lines in Italy; and though his fortune consisted but of a paternal estate, and a sword

R

that had already gleamed in numerous battles, his fame far outweighed every paltry objection on that account. As soon as Bianca knew that she saw before her the young hero whom she had loved before she saw him, she at once resigned herself to joy, and consented to become his bride.

"And yet," said she, as she surveyed the manly figure before her, " they did not picture thee to me as thou art. They spoke of blue eyes-thine are black as the raven's wing; of light fair hair-how jetty is

thine!"

"Doubtest thou that I am the prince?" said the stranger reproachfully: "behold, then, these proofs !" As he spoke, he produced a letter to the prince Adorno, and another signed with his name. The former was from a friend, and informed him of the rebellions by which Bianca had been driven from the ducal throne, concluding with an earnest request that he would return instantly from his travels and assert her rights; the latter stated his determination of replacing her in her dominions. 66 This," said the stranger, as he presented it, "I have yet found no means of forwarding."

After a few moments spent in the examination of the documents by Bianca, who recognized the hand-writing, the stranger, again addressing her, besought her to consent to a plan he had formed for the nuptials. As there were so many of her lovers at Venice, he wished to spare them the mortification of seeing her become his bride, and besought her to consent to set out for his castle. A lingering consent was wrung from Bianca, and it was agreed that next day they should sail down the river, and, landing at some point near his domains, proceed thither as fast as possible.

The next morning was one of exquisite beauty. Never was there a more cloudless sky or a brighter sun. The blue waves of the Adriatic seemed bluer than ever; the river, with its banks clothed with trees and verdure, was a perfect paradise. Embarked in a gallant gondola, with a numerous train of domestics, the stranger and Bianca sailed down towards Pisa; and when evening was approaching, the lady half trembled as she saw, rising on one side of the stream, the domains of which she had once been duchess. At length they approached where, from the rocks that frowned above, a descent of steps, hewn in the solid stone, conducted to a broad landing-place. At the sight of this spot the stranger turned from Bianca, with whom he had been conversing, and wound a bugle-horn that hung by his side. A strange suspicion crossed the mind of the Lady di Gonzaga, as, in reply to this sound, another of a precisely similar nature was heard above, and a hundred men came tramping down the rocky pass, fully armed and weaponed. Alas! these suspicions were but too true! The stranger caught hold of her in one arm, as he drew his sword with the other, and leaped on shore from the prow of the gondola. Safe on the land, he flung Bianca to the newly-arrived soldiers, with a command to load her with chains. "Farewell!" he exclaimed to the domestics in the boat; "and back to Venice as fast as you can. There, if the Doge asks you the reason of my conduct, tell him, that for a month, without his knowledge, his deadliest enemy dwelt within his walls-tell him, to plunge him in despair, that he might have seized, but did not, Malvezzi, Duke of Pisa!"

The wretched Bianca had been at first petrified at

the conduct of the pretended prince; his concluding avowal opened her eyes to the misery of her situation, The villanous Malvezzi, so glittering without and so evil within; the unprincipled usurper to a throne to which he had not the slightest claim; had in reality, as she conjectured, intercepted some real letters of Prince Adorno's, declaring his intention of exciting a struggle in her favor. In the fear of being intercepted, Malvezzi had determined to attempt to gain her affections in disguise, and thus at once destroy every future idea of resistance to his power. A month had he spent in this task, and he imagined that Bianca's heart must have been melted by his numerous attractions. In this belief he declared his love. What was his surprise to hear her confess her affection for Adorno! The strongest dissimulation, a vice which Italian statesmen at that period almost considered a virtue, could only prevent the hatred he instantly conceived for the duchess from glaring in his deceitful countenance. His presence of mind suggested the thought of counterfeiting the prince. The intercepted letters which he still bore about him readily furnished him with the means of strengthening the imposture, in which he was unhappily but too successful. Information had instantly been dispatched to Pisa, to cause a band of spearmen to await him that day at the hundred steps. The result was such as has already been detailed.

The outlines of this dark and iniquitous scheme flashed across the mind of Bianca, ás chains were placed upon her delicate hands, and, guarded by the band of Pisan soldiers, she mounted the hundred steps. As the villanous Malvezzi followed, she darted at him a glance that almost, like that of the fabled basilisk, possessed the power to kill, but not a word of complaint burst from her lips, though her heart was full of torture. To what dark dungeon was she now to be born by her rebellious subjects? Her eye asked the question, though her lips moved not. Malvezzi, as they attained the summit of the lofty rock, pointed to a gigantic castle glooming over the distant woodland landscape, elsewhere splendidly illuminated by the rays of the setting sun, and said, in an accent of scorn, There is your prison."

Bianca recognized the time-worn fortress. In her youth, her father had once shown her the castle, from battlement to donjon keep. It contained the most loathsome dungeons in Pisa-dwellings, where the wretched state-prisoners, who were confined there, clasping the duke's knees, implored, as a mercy, to be led to execution. Melting with pity, she had implored and obtained that they should be removed to more lightsome prisons, and that no one should henceforth be confined there How little at that time had she thought that it would ever be her own lot to be immured in these dreary dungeons! Her heart sank within her as they approached, and she burst into tears. From the mountain which they were descending, the palace of Prince Adorno was visible, and the reflection that perhaps he might at that moment be within her ken, unknowing her fate, made her tears flow still faster.

The

Malvezzi, meanwhile, was conversing with a soldier. who gave him some important information. Prince Adorno was in reality returned-report said that he was assembling his vassals to invade Pisa-that he had sent a messenger to Venice to inform Bianca of his arrival and intentions. "The lagging fool!" said Malvezzi, with scorn: "had he but been a day sooner

my plans had fallen to nought-perhaps I might at this moment have been crossing the Bridge of Sighs. By this time the Council of Ten must know Bianca's disappearance, and be conjecturing the cause-they shall soon be informed."

Night was now sinking, and the heavy walls of the castle were almost towering above them. As they rode up the rocky path, at whose summit frowned its black battlements, the warder's voice echoed through the pass "Who comes there ?"

"A friend from Venice," cried Malvezzi exultingly. "Welcome!" said the warder; "you have been impatiently expected. By'r Lady, your expedition is miraculous."

The heavy drawbridge dropped suddenly over the moat, the portcullis was raised with a grating sound, and Malvezzi entered, leading Bianca, trembling, with him. As his band were following he heard a struggle behind. The portcullis was dropped-the drawbridge raised." Some idle quarrel," fiercely muttered Malvezzi. "This garrison is the worst disciplined in Pisa." And so saying, he strode haughtily onward through the dark passage that led to the great hall of the frontier garrison.

In the hall a large table was spread, and torches were placed in the immense iron candlesticks, that shed a broad flashing light through the apartment. But no one was as yet assembled at the banquet. "Fellow!" cried Malvezzi to an attendant, striding into a neighbouring room, "send your commander hither."

The miserable Bianca, whom Malvezzi had never, from the moment of the warder's challenge, suffered to escape from his grasp, sunk, overpowered, into a chair, whilst the villain, scarcely concealing his pleasure, surveyed from the great window the rising moon, that, having emerged from the black clouds which had for some minutes obscured it, now cast a bright radiance into the room. Exulting in the success of his treacherous plans, he scarcely heard the door open behind him; but the step of an armed foot in the room aroused him from his reverie. Hastily turning round, what was his astonishment to behold a warrior, in complete steel, stand between him and the entrance, indignation and surprise painted in his noble countenance. At the same moment that the exclamation of "Malvezzi" burst from the lips of the stranger, Malvezzi himself, starting back a few paces, uttered with astonishment the word" Adorno."

"Yes! Adorno," cried the prince, "Adorno, who comes to wrest the throne of Pisa from the usurper." "By heavens! this exceeds my hopes," shouted the treacherous bravo: "yield thyself, for it is imposible to escape. My guards are all around.”

"They were this morning," said the prince," but the strong detachment sent off to the hundred steps enabled me to attack the castle with success. in the possession of Bianca di Gonzaga. or die!"

It is now "Yield thee,

The astonished Malvezzi, fixed like a statue, heard the fatal intelligence. At length, suddenly rushing forward, he endeavoured to stab Adorno; but the prince wrenching the dagger from his grasp, laid him prostrate at his feet. With a groan of agony the wretch expired, whilst Adorno supported his fainting

Bianca.

The news of Malvezzi's death opened the gates of Pisa to the duchess. She long and happily swayed the

No. XXXIII.-VOL. III.

sceptre of her parternal dominions, and was not the worse princess that she had once known adversity. There are few persons who cannot picture to themselves, without assistance, the festivities attending her entrance into the city, and the magnificence of her nuptials with the Prince Adorno, still more worthy in reality than fame proclaimed him.

THE CHAPLET.

To form a garland for my lovely maid,

I culled the sweetest flowers of fairest hue;
When genial Spring her earliest blooms displayed,
And summer's brightest beanties met my view.
The modest primrose wet with vernal dew,
The lily, emblem of her spotless mind,

Of Innocence, in Eden only found,
The half-blown rose its blushing sweets combined;
The simple wreath with Love's green myrtles twined :
This fragrant chaplet on her brows I bound,
And smiled to hear my gentle Laura say,
"These blushing flowrets, breathing odours round,
Like me, are but the blossom of a day;

But Innocence shall live till time itself decay.”

THE DRAMA.

The Theatrical World is in a state of agitation. The great establishments cleave to their patent rights and privileges, with the desperate pertinacity common to the tribe of monopolists, while the minors as firmly and resolutely demand to be allowed to share in the advantages derivable from a selection of the produc tions taken from the widest range of the drama. We deny in toto that Shakespeare cannot either be produced or understood in any other atmosphere than that of Drury Lane or Covent Garden. Who but the blindest enemy of improvement, will contend that the finer touches of feeling, those points in which Shakespeare, that most studious reader of the book of nature delighted, and that require first-rate genius and nice discrimination to embody? who can assert that the delicate and more subdued emotions of the soul,-so well understood by a late lamented tragedian,-can come home to the hearts of an audience more completely in the immense arenas of the two patent houses, than in the walls of a smaller theatre, such for instance as the Haymarket —Well do we remember the effect of Kean's most pathetic points, however fine and heart-stirring were all his bursts of passion, we always thought that he far excelled in pathos.-Without reference to the contested claims of either party, we would reverse the system; let the huge theatres keep their pageants, their ballets, their monkeys, and their melo-dramas, but give our immortal bard a chancé where his more tender beauties can be best appreciated in houses of more limited dimensions.

The Italian Opera season terminated about a fortnight since;" heavy losses;" "grievous falling off;" "£30,000 out of pocket;" are resounded throughout the London press; we who identify ourselves with the public, and who are seldom troubled about what is going on behind the curtain, assume not an intimate knowledge of the disbursements and receipts, yet we know enough to contradict these over-rated statements; one thing does generally enter into the calculation, that Laporte's affairs can hardly be said to be balanced,

R 2

until the arrears of divers noble and titled boxowners shall have been settled, which are no contemptible consideration, and which too often swell that dolorous list of the manager's ledger, headed "Bad Debts." Were we to examine his claims to public favor, we must concede him much merit for securing so great a concentration of talent. But here our eulogium ceases, and we acknowledge his deficiency in the direction of the varied powers of his performers. With the most efficient auxiliaries at command, he neglected to bring out the compositions of the great composers, or when produced, most frequently mutilated them. With the greatest resources, his operas were usually of the most ordinary merit. The stupidest ballet ever conceived, were occasionally made the medium of displaying the accomplishments of the most graceful dancers, and of the most skilful in the expression of pantomimic action. Let Laporte in his next season wed the creative power of the higher authors to the mimic skill of the actor--such we have a right to expect at the King's Theatre, and there is little doubt of such a management securing remunerative patronage.

The Haymarket, notwithstanding the temporary absence of the only salmon in the market;" through the determination of Morris to give entertainments of a varied and excellent description, still continues extremely attractive. Mr. Farren's illness suspended for a time the run of Nicholas Flam, which character he so admirably sustained, but to make up we suppose for the deficiency, we enjoyed the heart-thrilling and powerful tones of Mad. Malibran, who was introduced to sing some of her most popular songs. Pyramus and Thisbe, an amusing piece of absurdity, with no similarity to the beautiful original, caused at all events many a hearty laugh, and we leave it to its glory.

The Adelphi with its Reeve, rages and roars of laughter, continues to draw after its old fashion, we marvel that fatal cases do not more frequently occur through excess of laughter, a jury must in such cases return their verdict-Died by the visitation of the Adelphi!" The "Yeoman's Daughter;" by Serle, is a drama of no common merit, and admirably sustained. To Sadler's Wells, which we had not for a considerable time visited, we last week directed our steps. Peerless Pool which was still running successfully, it were needless to criticise, having long since obtained the suffrages of the frequenters of this theatre. We may observe however that the grouping of the living pictures introduced during the piece was admirably managed, and must please the most fastidious. Eily O'Connor, a domestic drama, of no inconsiderable interest, some of the scenes are forcible and striking, without violating probability. The company well assorted, and our evening's entertainment far exceeded our expectations.

In

At Vauxhall every thing has been regarded as flat, stale and unprofitable, when put into competition with the all absorbing interest created in the public mind by the benefit of the irresistible Simpson. But as not one of our subscribers within twenty miles of London could possibly have been absent, (they would marshal at least 5,000,) we have only to announce the interesting fact of this unprecedented event, for the information of our more remote readers. Only think of the portrait of Mr. Simpson, " 35 years master of the ceremonies at the Royal Gardens, Vauxhall," was hung

in brilliant lamps 45 feet high and more than all, a speech from the great original himself more brilliant than the lamps, more unctuous than the oil that filled them.

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM

"Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-" Journal des Dames et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et L'Indiscret"—" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"-" Le Mercure des Salons," &c. &c.

DRESSES. It is in vain that we try to discover any thing novel in the make of dresses at the present time, we have visited the first-rate dress makers shew rooms, those noted for their taste and variety, but our researches were fruitless, their talent seems to be on the repose at present.

We noticed at the last representation at the King's Theatre, a very handsome half mourning dress, composed of black pou de soie, over which was a mantelet of British point lace, trimmed round the neck with a falling lace figuring a collar: a black taffeta ribbon descending over the neck, was disposed en nœud on the chest; the lappels were not fastened. A rice-straw hat lined with black and circled round the crown with three black taffeta ribbons. Black silk stockings, open worked, and gros de Naples shoes.

Wide sleeves terminated by a wide wristband, are becoming every day more fashionable, and will there is no doubt entirely supersede the close fitting sleeves which have now lasted for three years.

Pockets are no longer a novelty; they have hitherto appeared only with neglige or demi-toilets.

A very pretty pelerine for morning toilets is composed of plain tulle, without trimming or embroidery. The first is buttoned in front over the chest; is straight cut and without points. The second is also rounded in front: the third forms a collar. These pelerines extremely light and transparent, are very becoming when worn over a coloured muslin dress: light cravats only should be worn with these pelerines, such as a grenadine ribbon or a point of Dona Maria gauze.

MANTELETS.-Black lace mantelets are made of various shapes, but that most generally adopted, forms a round pelerine behind, and long lappels in front. Some have plain grounds, bordered with detached bouquets, and edged with a blond that widens on the shoulders by means of a tulle sewed on the edge of the lace, and concealed by a second trimming hanging over it; this second row of trimming does not extend beyond the shoulders. Round the neck a falling lace, under which is a ribbon which is tied in front, or a ruche, and sometimes a square collar. Many mantelets are seen with the ruche extending to the extremity of the lappels in front.

Coloured taffeta mantelets trimmed with black lace, have been made in some of our first houses.

ENSEMBLE DE TOILETTES.-For demi-toilets, white muslin and organdi are much employed; short sleeves, with mittens, and scarf of black lace. A white organdi dress with deep cut corsage is often trimmed with a deep black lace caught up en draperie, and fastened in the middle by a rich brooch.

A sulphur coloured muslin dress, the corsage deep

cut round the shoulders; the sleeves short, trimmed with a ruche of black silk net; the ceinture of sulphur coloured gauze with black stripes, and fastened on the side; black mittens; a bouquet of scented peas on the head.

A pale green pou de soie dress, with a sprinkling of small white embroidered flowers. A double mantilla of British point lace with long sleeves of the same material, ornamented from the shoulder to the wrist with green gauze nœuds.

A black lace wrapper, ornamented with the most antique designs, richly embroidered border figuring shells, filled up with various open worked points; the ground was a semé or sprinkling in the old style; a pelerine and a falling collar, ornamented with a similar border and ground as the skirt; very wide sleeves completed this wrapper, which was lined with rosecoloured pou de soie, iced; the ceinture was a rosecoloured wide taffeta ribbon, bordered with black lace shells, the ends long, fastened en nœud in front.

A very handsome toilet is a turquoise-blue silk muslin dress, the skirt open in front in a fan-like shape, over the under petticoat of pou de soie of the same colour, to which it is fastened by black gauze nœuds; the corsage en pointe, is trimmed with a black lace mantilla, as also the short sleeves with sabots. White satin shoes and black mittens. The hair turned up behind in plaited tresses, with a tuft of screw curls projecting in front à la Mincini, supported by a bandeau of turquoises. A turquoise suite.

Another very pretty toilet was an India muslin dress, trimmed with hand embroidered volants, with a mantilla similar to the corsage. A small open shaped hat of sky blue crape, trimmed with a ruche and ornamented with a bouquet of white feathers. A string of fine pearls round the neck.

CHILDREN'S DRESSES.-It is difficult to make much variety in children's dresses; young ladies' dresses are still made short and full wide, with trowsers of striped jaconot, edged with a narrow lace. The dress is of the same material, also edged with narrow lace; the waist long; the sleeves long, and a pelerine slightly gathered round the neck and trimmed with lace. We have seen children in arms with short sleeves and open worked black silk mittens. An embroidered muslim dress, lined with rose-coloured taffeta; deep cut corsage edged round the bust and the ceinture with narrow lace; the trowsers of the same materials, and similarly trimmed and lined. A rose-coloured gauze fichu on the neck. A small muslin capote, embroidered and lined like the dress, descending over the cheeks, but uncovering the forehead. The hair disposed in large curls, fell over the neck and shoulders.

HATS & CAPOTES--They have but slightly varied in shape since our last appearance. They are still placed far back on the head. Tho crowns narrow, but less pointed than at the beginning of the season. Capote shapes are short and closed on the cheeks. Those of hats are more open. The interior lightly ornamented. The fashion of small ruche caps worn under hats, dispenses with all other accessaries.

Chintzed taffeta ribbon is much employed in Leghorn hats, lilac and white, lilac and green, rose and white or chintzed different colours, and sprinkled with shapeless flowers.

Embroidered muslin hats lined with rose or blue gauze, are numerous: we have seen one of organdi

with embroidered dots, lined with lilac taffeta, and ornamented with a branch of lilac displayed on one side: these hats are sometimes edged with a ruche of tulle, but the prettiest have a deep lace or demi veil.

The greatest novelty at present is a puce-coloured gros de Naples capote with green ribbons; the shapes are oval, and ornamented with a bouquet of heartsease or a green rose.

Heartsease is very pretty on a white hat. Mignonette and turnsols are very becoming on white crape hats.

Flowers are not much employed on rice-straw hats, for morning or promenade toilets, they are trimmed with taffeta ribbons.

Black crape hats are in general trimmed with rosecoloured ribbons; a few with black ribbon mixed with blue, pale-yellow, green and cherry colour.

We have seen a very tasteful hat of rice-straw, lined with apple-green, ornamented with two branches of vervain, trimmed with white gauze ribbon with a light border of light apple-green designs.

CAPS.-Many muslin or tulle caps are made with the trimming in front disposed à la Marie Stuart. This trimming is composed of two or three rows of tulle or lace forming a ruche, figuring a rounded pointe over the forehead and arched in half circles on each side; the interior of these circles, or butterflies, is filled by noeuds, or with tufts of hair, instead of nœuds; cut ribbon ends are sometimes disposed in the shape of palms; a ribbon ornament similarly disposed is placed in the middle of the cap above the trimmings, from which originates the brides or ties.

We have also seen some small black blond caps, lined with rose-coloured gauze; the front trimmed with a blond ruche placed far back, and under this ruche, rosecoloured ribbon coques or cut ribbon ends, forming garland over the forehead.

The small caps a la Juive are composed of embroidered muslin; the trimming is a flat-laid lace over the forehead, slightly gathered on each side, and forming a small tuft; a muslin band edged with lace form the brides, pass under the chin and are fastened under one of the sides.

COIFFURES.-We have no novelty to notice in coiffures. The hair is still separated in smooth_bardeaux over the forehead, and a tress forming couronne on the head. A few ladies have adopted on each side of the face, a long screw-curl falling below the ear. This coiffure is becoming to regular features only. Tresses à la Clotilde falling in half-circles on the cheeks, somewhat in the shape of a horse shoe, are very numerous.

MATERIALS AND COLOURS.-British foulards are in colonades, arabesks, and others with flowered designs. French foulards are all with Turkish designs.

Small Turkish designs are also in great vogue for chalis.

For dress-toilets, black or white lace is displayed over silk materials.

Nothing that we have hitherto seen, the so much admired chalis, nor the glowing coloured foulards, nor the innumerable hundreds of tissues of all colours that have hitherto appeared, can be put in competition, or rival with the satin du Levant, a new material which has just appeared at Mr. Gagelin's at Paris. It is rich, soft, silky and brilliant material, the shades are fine and beautiful, the designs novel and

a

« AnteriorContinuar »