Imágenes de páginas

that had already gleamed in numerous battles, his, the conduct of the pretended prince ; his concluding fame far outweighed every paltry objection on that arowal opened her eyes to the misery of her situation. account. As soon as Bianca knew that she saw before The villanous Malvezzi, so glittering without and so her the young hero whom she had loved before she saw | evil within ; the unprincipled usurper to a throne to him, she at once resigned herself to joy, and consented which he had not the slightest claim; had in reality, to become his bride.

as she conjectured, intercepted some real letters of “ And yet," said she, as she surveyed the manly Prince Adorno's, declaring his intention of exciting a figure before her, “ they did not picture thee to me as struggle in her favor. In the fear of being intercepted, thou art. They spoke of blue eyes--thine are black | Malvezzi had determined to attempt to gain her affecas the raven's wing; of light fair hair-how jetty is tions in disguise, and thus at once destroy every future thine!”

idea of resistance to his power. A month had he spent “ Doubtest thou that I am the prince?" said the in this task, and he imagined that Bianca's heart must stranger reproachfully : “ behold, then, these proofs !” have been melted by his numerous attractions. In this As he spoke, he produced a letter to the prince Adorno, belief he declared his love. What was his surprise to and another signed with his name. The former was hear her confess her affection for Adorno! The strongest from a friend, and informed him of the rebellions by dissimulation, a vice which Italian statesmen at that which Bianca had been driven from the ducal throne, period almost considered a virtue, could only prevent concluding with an earnest request that he would re

the hatred he instantly conceived for the duchess from turn instantly from his travels and assert her rights; glaring in his deceitful countenance. His presence of the latter stated his determination of replacing her in mind suggested the thought of counterfeiting the her dominions. “ This," said the stranger, as he prince. The intercepted letters which he still bore presented it, “I have yet found no means of forward. about him readily furnished him with the means of ing."

strengthening the imposture, in which he was unhappily After a few moments spent in the examination of the but too successful. Information had instantly been disdocuments by Bianca, who recognized the hand-writ- patched to Pisa, to cause a band of spearmen to await ing, the stranger, again addressing her, besought her him that day at the hundred steps. The result was to consent to a plan he had formed for the nuptials. | such as has already been detailed. As there were so many of her lovers at Venice, he

The outlines of this dark and iniquitous scheme wished to spare them the mortification of seeing her flashed across the mind of Bianca, as chains were placed become his bride, and besought her to consent to set upon her delicate hands, and, guarded by the band of out for his castle. A lingering consent was wrung Pisan soldiers, she mounted the hundred steps. As the from Bianca, and it was agreed that next day they

villanous Malvezzi followed, she darted at him a glance should sail down the river, and, landing at some point that almost, like that of the fabled basilisk, possessed near his domains, proceed thither as fast as possible. the power to kill, but not a word of complaint burst

The next morning was one of exquisite beauty. from her lips, though her heart was full of forture. To Never was there a more cloudless sky or a brighter sun. what dark dungeon was she now to be born by her The blue waves of the Adriatic seemed bluer than rebellious subjects? Her eye asked the question, though ever; the river, with its banks clothed with trees and her lips moved not. Malvezzi, as they attained the verdure, was a perfect paradise. Embarked in a gal summit of the lofty rock, pointed to a gigantic castle lant gondola, with a numerous train of domestics, the glooming over the distant woodland landscape, elsestranger and Bianca sailed down towards Pisa; and where splendidly illuminated by the rays of the setting when evening was approaching, the lady half trembled sun, and said, in an accent of scorn, “ There is your as she saw, rising on one side of the stream, the do- | prison.” mains of which she had once been duchess. At length

Bianca recognized the time-worn fortress. in her they approached where from the rocks that frowned youth, her father had once shown her the castle, from above, a descent of steps, hewn in the solid stone, con

battlement to donjon keep. It contained the most ducted to a broad landing-place. At the sight of this

loathsome dungeons in Pisa-dwellings, where the spot the stranger turned from Bianca, with whom he wretched state-prisoners, who were confined there, had been conversing, and wound a bugle-horn that

clasping the duke's knees, implored, as a mercy, to be hung by his side. A strange suspicion crossed the led to execution. Melting with pity, she had implored mind of the Lady di Gonzaga, as, in reply to this sound,

and obtained that they should be removed to more another of a precisely similar nature was heard above, lightsome prisons, and that no one should henceforth and a hundred men came tramping down the rocky

be confined there How little at that time had she pass, fully armed and weaponed. Alas! these süs

thought that it would ever be her own lot to be im. picions were but too true! The stranger caught hold mured in these dreary dungeons! Her heart sank within of her in one arm, as he drew his sword with the other, her as they approached, and she burst into tears. From and leaped on shore from the prow of the gondola. | the mountain which they were descending, the palace Safe on the land, he flung Bianca to the newly-arrived

of Prince Adorno was visible, and the reflection that soldiers, with a command to load her with chains.

perhaps he might at that moment be within her ken, “ Farewell!" he exclaimed to the domestics in the

unknowing her fate, made her tears flow still faster. boat; “ and back to Venice as fast as you can. There,

Malvezzi, meanwhile, was conversing with a soldier. if the Doge asks you the reason of my conduct, tell

who gave him some important information. The him, that for a month, without his knowledge, his | Prince Adorno was in reality returned-report said deadliest enemy dwelt within his walls, tell him, to that he was assembling his vassals to invade Pisathat plunge him in despair, that he might have seized, but

he had sent a messenger to Venice to inform Bianca of did not, Malvezzi, Duke of Pisa!”

his arrival and intentions. " The lagging fool!” said The wretched Bianca had been at first petrified at 'Malvezzi, with scorn: “ had he but been a day sooner

my plans had fallen to nought-perhaps I might at, sceptre of her parternal dominions, and was not the this moment have been crossing the Bridge of Sighs. worse princess that she had once known adversity. By this time the Council of Ten must know Bianca's | There are few persons who cannot picture to themselves, disappearance, and be conjecturing the cause they without assistance, the festivities attending her entrance shall soon be informed.”.

into the city, and the magnificence of her nuptials Night was now sinking, and the heavy walls of the with the Prince Adorno, still more worthy in reality castle were almost towering above them. As they rode than fame proclaimed him. up the rocky path, at whose summit frowned its black battlements, the warder's voice echoed through the pass " Who comes there?". “ A friend from Venice," cried Malvezzi exultingly,

THE CHAPLET. " Welcome !" said the warder ; “ you have been im

To form a garland for my lovely maid, patiently expected. By'r Lady, your expedition is

I called the sweetest flowers of fairest bue; miraculous."

When genial Spring her earliest blooms displayed, The heavy drawbridge dropped suddenly over the And summer's brightest beanties met may view.

The modest primrose wet with vernal dew, moat, the portcullis was raised with a grating sound,

The lily, emblem of ber spotless miod, and Malvezzi entered, leading Bianca, treinbling, with

of Innocence, in Eden only found, him. As his band were following he heard a struggle The half-blown rose its blushing sweets combined; behind.—The portcullis was dropped—the drawbridge

The simple wreath with Love's green myrtles twined :

This fragrant chaplet on her brows I bound, raised." Some idle quarrel," fiercely muttered Mal

And smiled to hear my gentle Laura say, vezzi. “This garrison is the worst disciplined in Pisa."

“ These blushing flowrets, breathing odours round, And so saying, he strode haughtily onward through Like me, are but the blossom of a day; the dark passage that led to the great hall of the frontier

But Innocence shall live till time itself decay." garrison.

In the hall a large table was spread, and torches were placed in the immense iron candlesticks, that shed

THE DRAMA. a broad flashing light through the apartment. But no one was as yet assembled at the banquet. “ Fellow !".

The Theatrical World is in a state of agitation. cried Malvezzi to an attendant, striding into a neigh The great establishments cleave to their patent rights bouring room, “ send your commander hither."

and privileges, with the desperate pertinacity common The miserable Bianca, whom Malvezzi had never, to the tribe of monopolists, while the minors as firmly from the moment of the warder's challenge, suffered to and resolutely demand to be allowed to share in the escape from his grasp, sunk, overpowered, into a advantages derivable from a selection of the produc: chair, whilst the villain, scarcely concealing his plea tions taken from the widest range of the drama. We sure, surveyed from the great window the rising moon,

deny in toto that Shakespeare cannot either be pro. that, having emerged from the black clouds which had

duced or understood in any other atmosphere than that for some minutes obscured it, now cast a bright radiance

of Drury Lane or Covent Garden. Who but the blind. into the room. Exulting in the success of his treacher

est enemy of improvement, will contend that the finer ous plans, he scarcely heard the door open behind him ;

touches of feeling, those points in which Shakespeare, but the step of an armed foot in the room aroused him

that most studious reader of the book of nature de. from his reverie. Hastily turning round, what was his lighted, and that require first-rate genius and nice astonishment to behold a warrior, in complete steel,

discrimination to embody? who can assert that the stand between him and the entrance, indignation and delicate and more subdued emotions of the soul,-s0 surprise painted in his noble countenance. At the same

well understood by a late lamented tragedian,-can moment that the exclamation of “ Malvezzi" burst come home to the hearts of an audience more comfrom the lips of the stranger, Malvezzi himself, start

pletely in the immense arenas of the two patent houses, ing back a few paces, uttered with astonishment the

than in the walls of a smaller theatre,—such for inword “ Adorno."

stance as the Haymarket —Well do we remember the “ Yes! Adorno," cried the prince, “ Adorno, who effect of Kean's most pathetic points, however fine and comes to wrest the throne of Pisa from the usurper." heart-stirring were all his bursts of passion, we always

“ By heavens! this exceeds my hopes," shouted the thought that he far excelled in pathos.-Without retreacherous bravo : “ yield thyself, for it is imposible ference to the contested claims of either party, wo to escape. My guards are all around.”

would reverse the system; let the huge theatres keep “ They were this morning," said the prince,“ but

their pageants, their ballets, their monkeys, and their the strong detachment sent off to the hundred steps melo-dramas, but give our immɔrtal bard a chance enabled me to attack the castle with success. It is now where his more tender beauties can be best appreciated in the possession of Bianca di Gonzaga. “ Yield thee, in houses of more limited dimensions. or die!"

The Italian Opera season terminated about a fortThe astonished Malvezzi, fixed like a statue, heard night since; “ heavy losses;" “ grievous falling off;": the fatal intelligence. At length, suddenly rushing “ $30,000 out of pocket;" are resounded throughout forward, he endeavoured to stab Adorno; but the the London press; we who identify ourselves with the prince wrenching the dagger from his grasp, laid him public, and who are seldom troubled about what is prostrate at his feet. With a groan of agony the going on behind the curtain, assume not an intimate wretch expired, whilst Adorno supported his fainting knowledge of the disbursements and receipts, yet we Bianca.

know enough to contradict these over-rated statements; The news of Malvezzi's death opened the gates of one thing does generally enter into the calculation, that Pisa to the duchess. She long and happily swayed the 1 Laporte's affairs can hardly be said to be balanced, NO. XXXIII.-VOL. III.

R 2

until the arrears of divers noble and titled box- in brilliant lamps 45 feet high! and more than all, a owners shall have been settled, which are no con- speech from the great original himself more brilliant temptible consideration, and which too often swell that than the lamps, more unctuous than the oil that filled dolorous list of the manager's ledger, headed “ Bad

them. Debts." Were we to examine his claims to public favor, we must concede him much merit for securing so LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS great a concentration of talent. But here our eulogium

FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES ceases, and we acknowledge his deficiency in the direction of the varied powers of his performers. With

INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM the most efficient auxiliaries at command, he neglected

Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-" Journal des to bring out the compositions of the great composers,

Dames et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et

L'Indiscret''-" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"-" Le or when produced, most frequently mutilated them. With the greatest resources, his operas were usually of Mercure des Salons," &c. &c. the most ordinary merit. The stupidest ballet ever Dresses.-It is in vain that we try to discover any conceived, were occasionally made the medium of dis thing novel in the make of dresses at the present time, playing the accomplishments of the most graceful we have visited the first-rate dress makers shew rooms, dancers, and of the most skilful in the expression of those noted for their taste and variety, but our researches pantomimic action. Let Laporte in his next season were fruitless, their talent seems to be on the repose at wed the creative power of the higher authors to the present. mimic skill of the actor--such we have a right to ex We noticed at the last representation at the King's pect at the King's Theatre, and there is little doubt of Theatre, a very handsome half mourning dress, comsuch a management securing remunerative patronage. posed of black pou de soie, over which was a mantelet

The Haymarket, notwithstanding the temporary ab of British point lace, trimmed round the neck with a sence of “ the only salmon in the market;" through falling lace figuring a collar : a black taffeta ribbon the determination of Morris to give entertainments of descending over the neck, was disposed en næud on the a varied and excellent description, still continues ex chest; the lappels were not fastened. A rice-straw hat tremely attractive. Mr. Farren's illness suspended for lined with black and circled round the crown with a time the run of Nicholas Flam, which character he three black taffeta ribbons. Black silk stockings, so admirably sustained, but to make up we suppose for open worked, and gros de Naples shoes. the deficiency, we enjoyed the heart-thrilling and power Wide sleeves terminated by a wide wristband, are ful tones of Mad. Malibran, who was introduced to sing becoming every day more fashionable, and will there is some of her most popular songs. Pyramus and Thisbe, no doubt entirely supersede the close fitting sleeves an amusing piece of absurdity, with no similarity to which have now lasted for three years. the beautiful original, caused at all events many a Pockets are no longer a novelty; they have hitherto hearty laugh, and we leave it to its glory.

appeared only with neglige or demi-toilets. The Adelphi with its Reeve, rages and roars of A very pretty pelerine for morning toilets is comlaughter, continues to draw after its old fashion, we posed of plain tulle, without trimming or embroidery. marvel that fatal cases do not more frequently occur The first is buttoned in front over the chest; is straight through excess of laughter, a jury must in such cases cut and without points. The second is also rounded in return their verdict-Died by the visitation of the front: the third forms a collar. These pelerines exAdelphi!” The “ Yeoman's Daughter;" by Serle, is tremely light and transparent, are very becoming when a drama of no common merit, and admirably sustained. worn over a coloured múslin dress : light cravats only

To Sadler's Wells, which we had not for a consider should be worn with these pelerines, such as a grenadine able time visited, we last week directed our steps. ribbon or a point of Dona Maria gauze. Peerless Pool which was still running successfully, it MANTELETS.-Black lace mantelets are made of were needless to criticise, having long since obtained various shapes, but that most generally adopted, forms the suffrages of the frequenters of this theatre. We a round pelerine bebind, and long lappels in front. may observe however that the grouping of the living Some have plain grounds, bordered with detached pictures introduced during the piece was admirably bouquets, and edged with a blond that widens on the managed, and must please the most fastidious. In shoulders by means of a tulle sewed on the edge of the Eily O'Connor, a domestic drama, of no inconsiderable lace, and concealed by a second trimming hanging over interest, some of the scenes are forcible and striking, it; this second row of trimming does not extend beyond without violating probability. The company well as the shoulders. Round the neck a falling lace, under sorted, and our evening's entertainment far exceeded which is a ribbon which is tied in front, or a ruche, our expectations.

and sometimes a square collar. Many mantelets are At Vauxhall every thing has been regarded as flat, seen with the ruche extending to the extremity of the stale and unprofitable, when put into competition with lappels in front, the all absorbing interest created in the public mind by Coloured taffeta mantelets trimmed with black lace, the benefit of the irresistible Simpson. But as not one have been made in some of our first houses. of our subscribers within twenty miles of London Ensemble de Toilettes.-For demi-toilets, white could possibly have been absent, (they would marshal | muslin and organdi are much employed; short sleeves, at least 5,000,) we have only to announce the interest with mittens, and scarf of black lace. A white organdi ing fact of this unprecedented event, for the informa- | dress with deep cut corsuge is often trimmed with a tion of our more remote readers. Only think of the deep black lace caught up en draperie, and fastened in portrait of Mr. Simpson, “ 35 years master of the the middle by a rich brooch. ceremonies at the Royal Gardens, Vauxhall," was hung 1. A sulphur coloured muslin dress, the corsage deep

cut round the shoulders; the sleeyes short, trimmed with embroidered dots, lined with lilac taffeta, and orwith a ruche of black silk net; the ceinture of sulphur namented with a branch of lilac displayed on one side: coloured gauze with black stripes, and fastened on the these hats are sometimes edged with a ruche of tulle, side ; black mittens; a bouquet of scented peas on the but the prettiest have a deep lace or demi veil. head.

The greatest novelty at present is a puce-coloured A pale green pou de soie dress, with a sprinkling of gros de Naples capote with green ribbons; the shapes 'small white embroidered flowers. A double mantilla are oval, and ornamented with a bouquet of heartsof British point lace with long sleeves of the same ease or a green rose. material, ornamented from the shoulder to the wrist Heartsease is very pretty on a white hat. Migwith green gauze noeuds.

nonette and turnsols are very becoming on white A black lace wrapper, ornamented with the most crape hats. antique designs, richly embroidered border figuring Flowers are not much employed on rice-straw hats, shells, filled up with various open worked points; the for morning or promenade toilets, they are trimmed ground was a semé or sprinkling in the old style; a with taffeta ribbons. pelerine and a falling collar, ornamented with a similar Black crape hats are in general trimmed with roseborder and ground as the skirt; very wide sleeves coloured ribbons; a few with black ribbon mixed with completed this wrapper, which was lined with rose- blue, pale-yellow, green and cherry colour. coloured pou de soir, iced; the ceinture was a rose We have seen a very tasteful hat of rice-straw, coloured wide taffeta ribbon, bordered with black lace lined with apple-green, ornamented with two branches shells, the ends long, fastened en næud in front.

of vervain, trimmed with white gauze ribbon with a A very handsome toilet is a turquoise-blue silk mus. | light border of light apple-green designs. lin dress, the skirt open in front in a fan-like shape, CAPs.—Many muslin or tulle caps are made with the over the under petticoat of pou de soie of the same trimming in front disposed à la Marie Stuart. This colour, to which it is fastened by black gauze nouds; trimming is composed of two or three rows of tulle or the corsaye* in pointe, is trimmed with a black lace lace forming a ruche, figuring a rounded pointe over mantilla, as also the short sleeves with sabots. White the forehead and arched in half circles on each side; satin shoes and black mittens. The hair turned up the interior of these circles, or butterflies, is filled by behind in plaited tresses, with a tuft of screw curls nouds, or with tufts of hair, instead of neuds; cut projecting in front à la Mincini, supported by a bandeau ribbon ends are sometimes disposed in the shape of of turquoises. A turquoise suite.

palins; a ribbon ornament similarly disposed is placed Another very pretty toilet was an India muslin dress, in the middle of the cap above the trimmings, from trimmed with hand embroidered volants, with a man. which originates the brides or ties, tilla similar to the corsage. A small open shaped hat We have also seen some small black blond caps, lined of sky blue crape, trimmed with a ruche and ornamented with rose-coloured gauze; the front trimmed with a with a bouquet of white feathers. A string of fine blond ruche placed far back, and under this ruche, rose. pearls round the neck.

coloured ribbon coques or cut ribbon ends, forming Cuildren's Dresses.--It is difficult to make much garland over the forehead. variety in children's dresses; young ladies' dresses are The small caps a la Juive are composed of em. still made short and full wide, with trowsers of striped broidered muslin; the trimming is a flat-laid lace over jaconot, edged with a narrow lace. The dress is of the the forehead, slightly gathered on each side, and formsame material, also edged with narrow lace; the waist ing a small tuft; a muslin band edged with lace form long; the sleeves long, and a pelerine slightly gathered the brides, pass under the chin and are fastened under round the neck and trimmed with lace. We have seen one of the sides. children in arms with short sleeves and open worked CorppuRES.-We have no novelty to notice in black silk mittens. An embroidered muslim dress, coiffures. The hair is still separated in smooth ban. lined with rose-coloured taffeta ; deep cut corsage edged deaux over the forehead, and a tress forming couronne round the bust and the crinture with narrow lace; the on the head. A few ladies have adopted on each side trowsers of the same materials, and similarly trimmed of the face, a long screw.curl falling below the ear. and lined. A rose-coloured gauze fichu on the neck. This coiffure is becoming to regular features only. A small muslin capote, embroidered and lined like the Tresses à la Clotilde falling in half-circles on the dress, descending over the cheeks, but uncovering the cheeks, somewhat in the shape of a horse shoe, are forehead. The hair disposed in large curls, fell over very numerous. the neck and shoulders.

MATERIALS AND COLOURS.-British foulards are in Hats & CAPOTES.—They have but slightly varied colonades, arabesks, and others with flowered designs. in shape since our last appearance. They are still French foulards are all with Turkish designs. placed far back on the head. Tho crowns narrow, but 1 Small Turkish designs are also in great vogue for less pointed than at the beginning of the season. chalis. Capote shapes are short and closed on the cheeks. For dress-toilets, black or white lace is displayed Those of hats are more open. The interior lightly or- over silk materials. namented. The fashion of small ruche caps worn Nothing that we have hitherto seen, the so much under hats, dispenses with all other accessaries.

admired chalis, nor the glowing coloured foulurds, nor Chintzed taffeta ribbon is much employed in Leghorn the innumerable hundreds of tissues of all colours that hats, lilac and white, lilac and green, rose and white or have hitherto appeared, can be put in competition, or chintzed different colours, and sprinkled with shapeless rival with the satin du Levant, a new material which flowers.

has just appeared at Mr. Gagelin's at Paris. It is Embroidered muslin hats lined with rose or blue a rich, soft, silky and brilliant : material, the gauze, are numerous: we have seen one of organdi 'shades are fine and beautiful, the designs novel and simple; it is in every point an admirable Turkish ma-1 FIGURE III.-WALKING DRESS.-A silk redingote, terial, which would certainly not be disdained by the with black lace mantilla, plain ground, bordered with Sultana most used to magnificence. That which will detached bouquets, and edged with a double row of be considered as a great advantage of the satins du richly embroidered black blond. A crape hat, orna. Levant, is the richness of its plaits, as well supported, | mented with a bouquet and a half veil. but far lighter than those of velvet.

Hat & BACK View. -A silk hat, small round shape, Some very handsome silk-muslins are printed in flat crown, trimmed with a ribbon point, ornamented colonades, or a sprinkling of Aowers on a white or a with an esprit and dwarf flowers. coloured ground. Another description is a sprinkling Cap & BACK View.-A tulle cap, trimmed with rib. of white liserons, traced in black on an emerald ground. bon coques and a bar edged with narrow dented lace

across the forehead.

Coiffure & Back View.- The hair turned up DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

smooth behind and elevated in three smooth coques, se.

parated en bandeau in front, and the ends of the tresses PLATE Thirty-Three. - Figure 1. – WALKING concealed under the coques. DRESS. -A pou de soie dress, close fitting corsage; PLATE THIRTY-FIVE.-Figure I.-MORNING DRESS. long sleeves; skirt plain, gathered round the waist, | A printed muslin dress, half high mounting corsage and forming rich deep plaits; a black lace pelerine in longitudinal plaits, edged round the bust with scolwidening over the shoulders. The hair in front sepa loped muslin. The hair turned up smooth behind and rated, and forming full side curls, turned up behind, elevated in elongated coques and ornamented with a and elevated in one smooth and two plaited coques.

flower; full side curls. F16URE II.-EVENING Drtss.-A figured muslin

Figure II.-WALKING Dress.-A jaconot dress, dress, flat corsage, deep cut round the shoulders, the corsage square cut over the shoulders, and emedged round the bust with narrow lace; short sleeves; broidered round the bust with a narrow border, a a black lace scarf. Coiffure, the hair separated in double pelerine forming a rounded point in front, and front à la Clotilde, turned up smooth, behind and widening over the shoulders, edged all round with a chou on the summit of the head.

narrow scolloped muslin embroidery ; embroidered mus. Figure III.-WALKING Dress.-An organdi dress, lin sleeves long and wide, closed at the wrist by a narrow half high mounting corsage edged with a deep lace band. A rice-straw hat, open shape, trimmed with figuring pelerine; long sleeve's ornamented with ribbon ribons and ornamented with sol flowers; a ribbon noeuds ; the skirt full wide, gathered all round the egret over the forehead; the ties ornamented with a waist and forming deep folds; a figured ribbon ceinture rüche. tied in front. A white Leghorn hat, small open shape,

Figure III.---WALKING DRESS.--. A muslin redinyote, low fat crown, ornamented with an esprit.

flat corsage with double pelerine and falling collar FIRST HAT.-A silk hat, half closed shape, pointed edged with narrow embroidery; the skirt open in front crown, ornamented with a paradise-bird displayed on and bordered with large dents, the points turned inone side ; a curtain behind.

wards, edged on each side and round the hem with a Second HAT.-A ricè-straw hat, small open shape, narrow embroidery corresponding with that of the the crown low and pointed, trimmed with a ribbon pelerine ; a black lace cravat fastened by a gold pointe, and ornamented with three feathers.

mounted cameo brooch. An embroidered muslin hat FIRST CAPOTĚ. An embroidered muslin capote, small contracted shape, round flat crown, trimmed with half closed shape edged with narrow dents, round hel. noeuds of cut ribbon ends and ornamented with a branch met shaped crown, surmounted by a ribbon chou, and of dwarf flowers and a half veil. ornamented with a bouquet of roses.

FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW.--- A rice straw hat, open Second CAPOTE.-A plain silk capote, closed shape, , shape, pointed crown, trimmed with ribbon coques, orpointed crown, trimmed with large coques of the same namented with a bouquet of roses. materials as the hat; a curtain behind.

SECOND HAT.---A silk hat, half-closed shape, trimmed CENTRE CAPOTE & BACK View.-An organdi capote, i with a large noeud displayed on one side, and a bouquet small shape, pointed crown, trimmed with gauze on the other. ribbon.

Third HAT.-A crape hat, copote shape, edged PLATE THIRTY-FOUR. Figur 1.-WALKING Dress. with a ruche, high pointed crown surmounted by a -A silk muslin redingote, high mounting corsage chou, ornamented by a rose and buds. open in front and edged with ribbon dents: an em COIFFURE & Back View.–The hair separated in broidered cambric chemisette with a double ruche round front and turned up à la Clotilde, a low smooth coque the throat ; a lace mantilla trimmed with ribbon dents | on the summit of the head, ornamented with two white similar to those of the dress; the skirt also edged with feathers. dents. A rice-straw hat, open shape, pointed crown,

PLATE THIRTY-Six.--FIGURE 1.-WALKING Dress. ornamented with heron feathers..

--An embroidered muslin dress, high mounting, close FIGURE II.-PROMENADE Dress.-A figured muslin

fitting corsage with blond pelerine and falling collar; dress, high mounting, close fitting corrage, edged in

long sleeves: a figured taffeta ribbon ceinture, to which front and round the neck with narrow lace, closed by

is fastened a reticule à la chatelaine of embroidered a jewelled broach; the sleeves wide and long, orua

muslin, lined with rose-coloured silk. A rice-straw mented over the shoulder with a deep blond in light

hat lined with rose-coloured silk, the shape open, square gathers, forming pelerine. An embroidered muslin cut under the ears, the crown high, pointed, and hat, edged with a ruche, ornamented with a branch of

ed with a branch of | circled with taffeta ribbons disposed at equal distances, roses with buds.

ornamented with flowers; a taffeta curtain behind.

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