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of the powder, and the mouth a second time well rinsed. It will
LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS be adviseable also to clean the tongue with a scraper, more par.|| ticularly when i be papillæ are rough, and the stomach happens to FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES be out of order. In all cases I would recommend the use of tepid
INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM water in preference to cold, as being more in consonance with our general feelings."
“ Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-" Journal des “ The Comic Offering for 1834.”.
Dames et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et We are lovers of fun and merriment, and heartily do
L'Indiscret''-" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"_" Le we greet the laughing harbinger of bleak, but social
Mercure des Salons," &c. &c. winter; its quips and cranks, and odd conceits are
Dresses.-Black tulle is much employed for evening the welcomer when nature wears a dreary aspect, and
dresses, they are with a sprinkling of bouquets, or in we are thrown upon our own resources to diffuse life
colonades, embroidered in coloured silks. It is worn and conviviality into the domestic circle.
over black satin under dresses. We have seen a very The pieces from the pen of the editress please us
pretty one done in large bouquets of roses. The boumuch, she evinces a genuine zest for the humorous ;
quets are larger towards the hem of the skirt; on short several of the contributions also deserve much praise ;
sleeves, a large bouquet only, which covered them. The among which, we may mention those of Miss Isabel
corsaye was draped ; the ceinture of figured black satin. Hill; the writer of “ Timothy Blushmore;' the author
Satin, or pou de soie redingotes, have the front of of “ Absurdities ;" *“ Omega," &c. We have now to
the skirt ornamented with a rather complicated work, take Miss Sheridan to task, for allowing to creep into
composed of the liserés, the inverted dents, and similar her otherwise amusing annual, some absolutely point
ornaments of the sort. Pelerines forming a point in less articles ; this we would fain attribute to the im
front and behind, and fastened under the ceinture, are portunity of some goodnatured friend. The wood cut
adapted to these dresses, a double point falls over the illustrations are generally well conceived, but the
shoulder. The plaits of the skirt are made in double execution of them must be improved if Miss S. wishes to
crevés to give the folds fullness and amplitude. continue in our good graces. ;Dili : 1611, !.
Silk dresses embroidered in silk of the same colour,
are too high in price and good taste, not to remain in - As our readers are particularly fond of “ something
high favour this winter. new,' we extract the following for their amusement.' 'i
Several pointed.corsages are thus disposed; the
plaits are gathered up on the shoulder and extend to i bis SOMETHING NEW..
the ceinture, and spreading out in the shape of an open
fan, they are separated by a narrow band. BY c. B. AND LOUISA. H. SHERIDAN. ..,
The ceintures of evening dresses with straight cor.
sages without points, are formed by a cordelière twice [The rhymes of the folloning little wbim, are gradually in turned round the waist and loosely fastened in front. creased, by an additional one, in every couplet ; so that io the
Mantillas of gros de Naples are still worn. last two lines, every word has its rhyme in the corresponding line.]
CLOAKS.---Notwithstanding the mild weather, it is
surprising to see the number of cloaks already in use, ( 'Tis nothing new to write a line for Rhyme,
as also to notice the beauty of the materials employed And make the next one answer with a Chime :
in their composition.
Many are in figured designs on new tissues, either Less oft is Done in verse than now I Do,
of the same colour as the ground, or in bright and conIn lines twice One to manage rhymings Two :
trasting shades in the Turkish fashion,
Several new shapes in imitation of the winter costumes (Less often Still you've Met what now yon'll See,
of the inhabitants of the North has caused an entire A scribbler's skill thus Get in rhymings Three :3.
revolution in this part of ladies' attire."
The Yermelott, forming both pelisse and vitchoura, But I still Trust to manage More, I Vow,':;'
is a most elegant cloak. ' And Try to Thrust in rhymings Four! and Now
The Boyard is drawn tighter round the waist, and For Five! in What odd Deed a Bard, (if He
trimmed with furs. Our plates will successively india
cate these two models when produced by the inventor. But Strive) may Not succeed, tho' Hard it Be ?!
Embroidered black net is much employed for evening *1851.1581_2015; To Press them Yet more Near my Mind I Fix,
dresses. They are sprinkled with bouquets or in coNo Less I'll Get in Clear you'll find than Six!
lonades embroidered in coloured silks. They are worn
over black satin dresses. We have seen a very handDost Thou of Seven think Mean? if So 1 Here ons! : some one with a sprinkling of bouquets of large roses ' Must Vowo by Heaven ! to Spleen I Owe Thy Fear! perfectly shaded, the bouquets enlarging towards the
lower part of the hem; the short sleeves were covered ilon Svil My Dre must Claim. (For This Sly Smile) 15 m | by a large bouquet; the body was draped, the waist
Will you Try Too the Sam9,- Nor Miss My Style? band of black satin figured rose and green. A garland -; Itunit & P11: 11us 1 h1970 SV sf1
of roses was intended to ornament the head-dress of this See Eight Cleur Done By Me: How Fill We Nine? tid
handsome toilet. The Plate's Near Won I See,–Now Still Be Mine : 1 Satin redingotes have the front part of the skirt orel (To Chime The Ten Feet Thro': You See I Chuse
namented with a rather complicated kind of tress work
tur all 3 True Rhyme :-Be Then Meet Due To Thee Myanti
formed by narrow piping forming inverted dents with
the points turned back, and other ornaments of the same, in C a'n Muse! bloorte lleurd 5.1 ,704.7!!qul qi!?! hindi novata w moi est gouri s3 1119303 9 con ils vs brilan qui est le description. Pelerines forming points in front and on
the back, and fastened under the waist-band; also a or black and orange, and for young ladies, blue and double point falling over the shoulders.
orange. The plaits of skirts are made in double crevés, so as The shapes are half large, the trimming plain. to be ample and reach to to the extremity of the hem, For evening hats, terry velvets with satin sripes, for a skirt should in no part be tight or sit close.
For demi toilets, figured terry velvets. · Black net scarfs are still very fashionable for even. Open shapes are worn with theatre dresses. ing or theatre dresses. Black net embroidered in gold A pretty ornament for crape hats lined with satin, is and green, or red and gold gothic designs, is very a bouquet of three roses of different colours; other elegant.
bouquets are formed by a rose and pinks speckled with Some dress-makers have ventured pointed corsages various colours. thus disposed : the plaits are gathered up on the should Some rose-coloured satin hats are lined with black ers and spreading out in a fan-like shape on the chest, velvet, the shape ribbed or rather arched in the centre separated by a narrow band. :
by a black velvet band; the bow which ornaments the In one of our large establishments, where we are sides as also the cross ribbon which forms the ties, are often favored with a view of the novelties, we have seen of black velvet. dresses with large pelerines which might be called man- | A handsome satin hat, was lined with brown velvet, tillas; they are very long behind, with small lappels, ornamented with a brown branch of hyacinths, one half and trimmed all round with lace or black blond. They brown, the other of a yellow maïs-colour. are composed of plain velvet of the same colour as the A sulphur-coloured silk hat, lined rose-coloured silk, dress.
iced, and ornamented with two feathers, one sulphurSome dress makers have tried them in terry velvets. coloured, and the other pale yellow, formed a most deThis fashion is very rich and very elegant.
licate and elegant head-dress. A new kind of reticule called châtelaines, which we A figured green satin hat, ornamented with green mention here on account of its forming part of the feathers tipped with white, and lined with satin. dress, is becoming quite fashionable. It is suspended Capotes.---Will still be the only head-dresses worn to the waist-band by means of an elegant hook either by ladies of the the fashionable world with neglige of gold, enamel, jet, or steel; this hook is made fast and walking dresses. to the waistband, and is suspended by two chains The colours generally adopted are apple-green,' eme- ;:which sustain the reticule at each corner; it is fastened rald-green, and lilac; the ties ties are usually trimmed by a spring lock. Many are closed by a small silk with blond and a blond ornament inside the shape. cord terminated by two tassels, which hangs on each Blue or rose-coloured capotes trimmed with ribbons of side; a larger cord suspends it by means of a hook on the same colour, are often bordered with a narrow black the waistband. They are made in different manners, piping. of black satin embroidered in coloured silks, of velvet, A charming little cap, was composed of black net, trimmed with lace, of black blond lined with rose coyered with embroidery in floss silk of a light green; coloured silk. We have seen one of green velvet, it was lined with green gauze ; on the edge a ruche of bordered by a gold embroidered wreath, in the middle tulle cut in thin and very pointed dents, which formed a rich escutcheon in the middle of which was embroidered a very light trimming supported by a half wreath of the cypher of the person for whom it was intended ; at green ribbons cut in leaves Other pieces of ribbon each corner, two handsome gold tassels; the lock, ends .cut in the same manner, formed a double egret, corners, and hook were of burnished gold relieved with placed on one side over the trimming. This egret, enamel. These châtelaines are just large enough to being separated in the middle by a ribbon bow, onle : contain a cambric handkerchief, a purse, and a few half turned up on the head, inclined a little towards visiting cards.
the forehead; the other descended towards the ear. ENSEMBLE DE TOILETTE.—A ball dress composed CAPS.---Although black caps have already become of white saccarilla muslin, speckled with gold dots very common in the second rate magazine of inodes, and narrow stripes ; the corsage in crossed draperies, they are still likely to remain in favor this winter. without points, and terminated by a treble gold tress, We have seen several black blond caps, also some of forming cordeliere; the head dress a turban of the black tulle, lined with coloured gauze and ornamented same material as the dress, encircled with a torsade of with zephyr-roses. lamée; a large gold mounted cameo over the forehead; Since the invasion of the sombre, it is diversified necklace and car-rings similar,
by all sorts of embroideries and ornaments. Small HATS.---Many evening hats are composed of satin
dots, green, rose, blue, lilac, &c., gives the black covered with white blond-tulle, and ornamented with net an animated aspect; besides which, a garland of a flower or a white feather pinked same colour as the dwarf roses of various shades, and assorted with the the satin. Some hats are covered with black net in. embroidery is placed on the centre over the forehead, stead of white.
and forms a demi-couronne on the back of the head; The shapes of some black satin hats, are lined with
there is much gracefulness, and not a little coquettishgreen, blue or lilac. The ribbons are half black, and ness in these small head-dresses. Sometimes in lieu of half of the same colour as the material that lines the the garland of roses, a plait of green or blue ribbons shape; some ribbons are in very small stripes, or in with stripes or checkers. This plait crowns the fore small quadrilles, black over green, rose, yellow or lilac; head and supports the trimming. others are extremely wide and figured with damasked CoIPPURES.--According to appearances, the art of garlands.
the coiffure, forming so important a branch of female Por neglige hats, figured satins; satin-tulle imita- 1 fashions, will be put to a severe trial this winter ; never ting doble-lace; the most novel are white and orange have our elegantes been more wavering and undecided,
nor have exacted from the tortured artist so much variety in the disposal of the hair.
The antique coiffures modified with taste, and made to harmonize with the toilets of the present times, which, by the bye bear great affinity to those of Louis the Fourteenth's time, will most probably have the sway.
The Greek coiffures are abandoned by the hairdressers, and but very few are now seen among the heau monde, and are only becoming with neglige morning dresses; many head-dresses are ornamented with natural flowers, formed in large bouquets called à lu jardinière. The flowers which keep best during an evening are the rose laurel, dahlias of all colours, everlasting daisies and heath-blossoms. The hair turned up en casque and with smooth tresses are as much worn as ever, they are entwined so as to produce the desired effect for both low or elevated coiffures, and are easily varied.
The smooth bandeaux are only worn now by very young ladies.
Materials & COLOURS.---The following are the principal and most novel materials brought out for the forthcoming season.
Gros de Laine damasquiné, is a strong, but brilliant and soft material,
Batiste de Lyon, a tissue composed of goat's hair and silk, intended for walking dresses.
already is so well known, and so much admired by the fashionable world, and so regretted when obliged to discard it in consequence of its having become common, is now revived, beautiful once more and new again, and employed under the most novel shapes and richest materials. According to appearances, black will he much employed this winter, as well for dresses as for head-dresses and jewellery.
A kind of dark orange colour is the newest colour produced this autumn; it is very becoming to the face, and is employed for hats, cap trimmings, scarfs or cravats.
The multitude of names each year employed to designate the new designs or colours of materials, sometimes produce very graceful denominations, which certainly surpass in point of taste, those adapted to the old fashions of the last century,
In general, it is the sudden starting into notoriety of some personagc, of a phenomenon, of a literary novelty, a new and favourite piece, or the like, that in France inspires the names of a new material or a new shape. Strangers should not therefore expect to receive any thing very extraordinary when they send their orders according to the names at present used. Thus for instance, a lady may wear a ball-dress of
gaze fleurs des Anges, without the fear of appearing too aeriel, or a Satin Luxor, without appearing an antiquity.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
Satin Luxor and Alexandrin, is composed of silk and soft foreign wools, soft to the touch, though strong, and as brilliant as satin,
Foulards with covered grounds, for dresses, the designs entirely different from those hitherto brought out on black grounds; also the white Foulards, manų. factured with Chinese silk, this last reminds one of the materials employed in the XV. century.
Segovia Woollen Muslins, with new dark-coloured designs; the arrangement and display of colours is most beautiful.
Painted Sutins, figured in large designs, on white and shaded grounds; the designs are bold and graceful.
Satin Vessuve, an article, the beauty of whieh, approaches more than any other to perfection.
Woollen and Satin gauze, designated also Gaze Ulémas, a charming material for dinner and evening dresses,
For ball dresses, for young ladies, some very pretty transparent materials have been manufactured, some are half clear, others quite thick, and are ealled
gaze dentelle, gaze de Pomme, gaze sevillanne.
Satin-dentelle, is a supremely elegant material, imitating the Bruxelles point applied over plain satin. This article is one of the most marking of the season ; its designs are various, some in wreaths, some in bouquets, others running designs.
Figared Satins, of various colours, in light and dark shades, by a newmode of manufacturing, produce a most splendid effect, and have the appearance of the richest embroidery. Several of these tissues are really of surprising richness and beauty. The most noted, are the satine Maintenon, Dubarry, and the Damas.
India Velvet, for morning dresses, are, if we may venture the expression, old novelties, that will remain in full favor the whole of the ensuing season, as also the plain satins. : Their light shades for dresses with a mantel-pelerine of the same material, trimmed with black lace, form very elegant demi-toilets.
Hayti blue has re-appeared this autumn, this colour
Plate Forty-One.--.Figure I.---EVENING Dress.... A richly embroidered blond dress, pointed corsage, deep cut on the shoulders and forming a pointe on the chest, as well as at the ceinture, the bust edged with scolloped lace; a satin stomacher in small longitudinal plaits supported by transversal bands, and bordered with narrow lace; the sleeves short and richly embroidered and ornamented with small ribbon nouds. Coiffure, the hair separated over the forehead, the ends disposed on each side of the face in full side curls, turned up behind and elevated in smooth coques, ornamented with three white feathers tastefully displayed.
FIGURE II.---BRIDAL DRESS.--A moire dress, closefitting deep eut corsage, bordered round the bust with a narrow embroidery; the sleves long, wide at the shoulders, the bouffans formed by ribbon noyds, the ends long and floating on the sleeve, close fitting from above the elbow to the wrist, and terminated by a cuff formed by long pointed dents, the points reaching high up the arm; the skirt edged round the hem with scolloped lace, and caught up in festooņs by gold or. naments surmounted by bouquets composed of three feather tips. Coiffure, the hair elevated in smooth coques on the summit of the head, and ornamented with two branches of orange blossoms and a large veil, the lappets reaching low down the skirt of the dress.
Figure III.--BALL DRESS.An embroidered tulle dress, corsage en point with a satin drapery à la maina tenon, caught up in the middle by a noud, and edged with scolloped lace; the sleeves short, and terminated by a blond sabot, ornamented with satin bands edged with blond, and figuring a neud d'épaule; the skirt, from bolow the knee, is cut in long undulating donts, Under dress of white satin. Coiffure, the hair over
the forehead separated in smooth bandeaux, turned up behind, and elevated in a large smooth coque, adorned with a branch of Aowers, and ornamented with white feathers.
First Cap & Back View.---A turban-shape plain muslin cap, ornamented with a chou of cut ribbon ends.
Second Cap & Back View.--A dress cap of embroidered tulle, the trimming disposed en aureole, ornamented with feather tips and a branch of dwarf flowers.
Hat & Back VIEW.---A satin hat, round open shape, flat inclined crown ornamented with a bouquet of feathers; the brides trimmed.
Plate Forty-Two..--FIGURE I...Carriage Dress. ---A moire redingote, the corsage close fitting with pointed pelerine, cut in square dents over the shoulders, bordered all round with embroidered laurel leaves, and edged with black lace; the sleeves wide from the shoulder to the elbow, and close fitting from thence to the wrist; the skirt closed in front by plain næuds, and bordered on each side from the ceinture to the ex. tremity of the hem, with a rich embroidery of fancy designs. A satin hat, half open shape, edged with a tulle ruche, the crown round, trimmed with a fichu of the same material as the hat, edged with a narrow ruche, and ornamented with two white feathers.
Figure II.-Evening DRESS -A satin cloak with velvet pelerine and falling collar; wide sleeves à la Chinoise, terminated with a rich embroidery, the arm holes similarly embroidered; the hem ornamented with a rich embroidery, corresponding with that of the sleeves. A velvet hat, round shape, descending low down on the cheeks, the crown inclined behind, and ornamented with an ostrich feather.
FIGURE III.WALKING Dress, A chaly dress, printed in small designs, pointed corsage, edged round the bust with a scolloped upright lace, the sleeves long, wide at the shoulders, the plaits maintained by a silk cord terminated by two tassels; the ceinture formed hy a silk cordellière with tassels tied in front, the ends descending over the skirt. A satin hat, the brim in front slightly turned up, the crown pointed and partly enveloped by a silk ornament figuring a fichu, in front a bouquet of feathers, the ties composed of plain gauze edged with a narrow blond. The hair separated in front, the ends disposed in full side curls.
First Hat & Back View.---A silk hat, open shape, helmet shaped crown, trimmed with a blond forming aureole, and ornamented with a bouquet.
Second HAT.---A straw hat, straight cottage shape, with round crown, the shape and crown on the same line; trimmed with a plain ribbon.
Third HAT. A ribbon hat, open shape, high round crown, trimmed with ribbon coques, the ends forming brides.
Coiffure & Back VIEW.--The hair separated over the forehead, the ends turned up behind the ears, and smooth behind, and elevated in smooth coques, on the summit of the head, ornamented with a couronne of roses.
Plate Forty-Three.---FIGURE I.---WALKING Dress. A printed cashmere cloak, with large square cape reaching below the ceinture, above this is a smaller one, the edge of which is cut in small arches; a square falling collar. A silk hat, round open shape, round crown, trimmed with a bouquet of fancy flowers.
Figure II.--Evening Dress...-A cashmere cloak with pelerine cape, the points extending to the hem, and closed in front by jewelled ornaments, and edged all round with black blond ; a falling velvet collar, the corners rounded, the short points in front closed similar to those of the cape. Under dress of figured chaly. A velvet dress hat, ornamented with two white feathers.
Figure III.---Theatre Dress.--A satin cloak with large cape and turn-down collar, edged all round with silk lace, and bordered with a similar cord, forming a zig-zag design. A velvet toque ornamented with an esprit. FIRST Cap & BACK VIEW... An embroidered tulle
сар, trimmed with ribbon coques.
First Hat & Back View..-A satin hat, the shape rather large and covering the eașs, the crown round, and ornamented with a point of tulle edged with blond and a bouquet of delicate flowers.
Centre HAT.--A velvet hat, small shape, flat crown, ornamented with an ostrich feather.
Second Cap & Back View..--A black tulle cap, or. namented with several rows of dented black blond in thick gathers, trimmed with neuds of cut ribbon ends, and an egret displayed in front, also of cut ribbon ends.
PLATE Forty-Four... FIGURE I.-TREATRE Dress. ---A Pompadour-satin cloak with double cape, the curves of each cape cut in arches, each point terminates by a silk tassel; a fur collar; the sleeves long and wide with an opening for the arm in that part of the sleeve
A crape hat, half closed shape, round crown, ornamented with ostrich feathers.
FIGURE II...WALKING Dress.--A figured silk dress, high mounting corsage with pelerine, the points pass. ing over the ceinture and extending low down the front of the skirt, and edged with black blond, and closed with nouds; the sleeves wide and long from the shoulder to the wrist. A satin hat, trimmed with ribbon næuds and a black blond veil.
FIGURE III.---Evening Dress.--A figured satin dress, half-high mounting corsage with pointed pelerine, cut in dents over the shoulders and terminated with blond ; the sleeves long; the skirt full wide, and ornamented round the hem with a serpentine embroidery. A toque of crape, ornamented with two white feathers; full side curls.
Hat & Back View.---A satin hat, open shape, flat inclined crown, trimmed with large ribbon coques, and ornamented with a bouquet of everlasting daisies.
Cap & Back View.---A tulle morning cap, the crown close fitting to the head, a double row of upright trimming in front forming aureole, ornamented with ribbon. rouleaux and two plain næuds in front to support the trimming.
CENTRE HAT.---A satin hat, small open shape, flat crown, tastefully trimmed with nouds of cut ribbon ends; the ties trimmed with a ruche.
under the cape.
MODES DE PARIS ET DE LONDRES. PUISEES AUX SOURCES LES PLUS AUTHENTIQUES. COMPRENANT UN CHOIX D'EXTRAITS DES JOURNAUX
DONT LES TITRES SUIVENT :« Le Follet Courrier des Salons"..." Le Petit Courrier des Dames".." La Mode''..." Journal des Dames" &c. &c.
Modes.-On commence à voir des chapeaux en satin. Les formes, resteront petites cet hiver; les fleurs de saison vont se maintenir jusqu'à l'apparition des plumes ou des ornemens en velours. Il faut encore quelques jours pour que le nouveau genre de mode que l'on doit adopter soit assez marqué pour l'indiquer sans crainte d'erreur. Une première innovation n'est pas toujours celle qui a la vogue, et nous croyons, dans l'intérêt de nos abonnées, de ne leur annoncer une mode que quand elle est décidément prise.
Les petits bonnets sont toujours une manie, même chez les plus jeunes femmes qui, pendant une partie de la journée, se plaisent à ensevelir leur cheveleur de seize ou vingt ans sous des dentelles et des mousselines brodées; il est vrai qu'on en dégage beaucoup les formes. Les garnitures sont basses et jetées assez en arrière, afin de laisser le front à découvert, ce qui, joint au fond qui est très-petit, forme une coiffure assez légère. · Un charmant petit bonnet était en tulle noir, couvert d'un petit semé brodé en soie plate vert chou; il était doublé en gaze verte; au bord, une ruche de tulle découpée en dents minces et pointues, ce qui formait une garniture très-légère; elle était soutenue par une demi-couronne de rubans verts découpés en feuillage. D'autres bouts de ruban, découpés de la même manière, formaint une double aigrette placée sur le côté, audessus de la garniture. Cette aigrette, étant séparée au milieu par une attache de ruban, avait une de ses moitiés qui remontait au-dessus de la tête en s'inclinant un peu vers le front; l'autre partie descendait sur l'oreille.
Comme fantaisie, on voit de jeunes femmes porter, lorsqu'elles sont coiffées en cheveux, un tour de blonde ruchée, qu'elles placent en manière de petits bonnets. Ce geure s'adoptait depuis longtems pour remplacer les bonnets sous les chapeaux ; mais ce qui le distingue aujourd'hui, ce sont les ornemens de rubans qu'on y adapte. Ainsi, entre les plis d'une blonde très-légère, froncée en coquille, vous voyez des bouts de rubans de gaze rose découpés, qui rendent la garniture aussi fraiche et aussi légère qu'une guirlande de bal. On en fait aussi sans blonde, et seulement composés de rubans découpés et ruchés, les uns . en chicorée, les autres offrant une double rangée de fenillages qui retombent graduellement l'une sur l'autre comme une garniture. Pour la rendre plus élégante, on peut adjoindre à cette eoiffure des bouts de rubans formant noeud ou aigrette, que l'on place sur le côté ou en arrière de la tête. Il est très-joli de séparer ce neud au milieu par une tresse de cheveux.
Les petits sacs dits Châtelaines, dont nous avons donné dernièrement le modèle, commencent à se généraliser. On les pend à sa ceinture, au moyen d'un élégant crochet d'or, d'émail, de jais ou d'acier. Ce crochet retient deux chaînes qui soutiennent de chaque côté le petit sac, qui est fermé par une serrure ou par une coulisse. La plus grande partie est fermée par
une petite cordelière de soie, terminée aux bouts par deux glands qui retombent de chaque côté; une corde. lière plus grosse suspend le sac, au moyen da crochet qui est à la ceinture. Ces châtelaines peuvent se faire de mille manières, en satin noir brodé en couleur, en velours garni en dentelle, en blonde noir doublée en soie rose. Dans une corbeille de noce, nous avons vu, ces jours-ci, placer une châtelaine en velours vert, entournée d'une petite guirlande brodée en or ; au milieu, un riche écusson dans lequel était brodé le chiffre de la personne à laquelle elle devait appartenir; aux deux coins, deux jolis glands d'or; la serreure, les coins et le crochet étaient en or bruni, avec des enjolivemens d'émail. M. Bourguignon, passage de 1 Opéra, fait dans ce genre de très-jolies montures. Une châtelaine doit offrir tout juste de quoi contenir un mouchoir de batiste, une bourse, quelques cartes de visite, et peutêtre quelquefois la petite clef d'un trésor.
Les ceintures de fantaisie à gros grains satiné sont d'une force extrême, résistant sans plier; les plus distinguées sont variées de plusieurs nuances comme du marbre ; le satin est uni à l'endroit sans aucune brochure ; d'autres ceintures du même genre sont à gros grains, la côte restant visible; de fort jolies ont les marbrures très vives sur fond blanc.
Une autre genre de ceinture se fait en ruban de satin souple-toujours marbré, le blanc ou le noir domine pour le fond ; ces ceintures ne s'attachent pas avec des boucles, elle se nouent par devant ou sur le côté par une rosette à pans,
Quelques-unes sont en satin imprimé, comme des étoffes ; à dessins chargés ou légers, selon qu'ils doivent aller avec une robe du même genre..
Les fichus-ceintures sont de charmáns négligés, et seront susceptibles cet hiver d'achever avec grande élégance une toilette de bal. Le ruban, marquant une pointe de fichu, s'attache au milieu du dos, il passe sur les épaules, croise sur la poitrine, et revient nouer par devant, en rosette à très-longs pans, après avoir croisé derrière le dos. Ordinairement ces fichus-cientures se mettent sur les robes montantes; il sont en satin large d'une inain, uni ou à dessins. - Mais on peut aussi fort bien les mettre avec une robe décolletée ; quelquefois on ajoute à ce ruban, tout simplement posé, une rosette à bouts flottans, qui se fixe sur chaque épaule.Ceci convient mieux lorsque la robe est décolletée, qu'avec la robe négligée.
Le cashemire de soie est une charmante étoffe, souple et moelleuse comme le Thibet; elle fera de jolies robes du matin, et peut parfaitement, selon le goût qui l'em. ploie, remplacer les étoffes de toilette habillée.
Les robes de blonde noire, portées sur un dessous en satin de couleurs s'annoncent pour cet automne, et probablement aussi pour l'hiver. -Nous en avons yu néanmoins de fort belles, à dessins tout-à-fait nouveaux, Le plain était semé de bouquets de petites fleurs dé. licates, assez espacées les unes des autres; les manches: courtes et les manches longues, également semées de bouquets comme le corsage. Ce genre simple est d'un effet charmant sur le satin rose ou de toute autre cou. leur. . . . . . .
Mes manteaux commandés par l'élite des femmes à la mode sont en satin double noir doublé de citrón ; vert, de cerise, granat de paille ; les collets continuent à être excessivement grands.