and everlastings; a fanciful diamond suit completed this rich and elegant toilet. The diamonds were set on gold plates enamelled in small green designs.

HATS & CAPOTES.-Many rose-coloured satin capotes are seen ornamented with a gauze nœud, and a few branches of delicate flowers. A blond veil sewn on the edge is still in good taste.

On satin hats two feathers are displayed; one of a middling size, the other smaller; they are fastened at the stem by a nœud, and arched over the crown. Rosecoloured feathers thus disposed on pearl-grey satin hats, lined with rose-coloured satin or velvet, have been lately seen in the dress circles at the fashionable theatres,

White and straw-coloured satin hats, ornamented with white feathers, are also much adopted.

Green satin hats, lined with black velvet, and ornamented with a bouquet of flowers, is the general fashion of the present day. A great many black velvet, or satin hats, lined with green, ornamented with a green flower and black chalice, or a black flower and green chalice, are also much worn.

The shapes are rather larger than those of last summer, they are open, shorter in the middle, and descend low down on the sides.

The crowns remain small, and are still narrower at the top than at the base.

On black velvet hats, figured satins are much employed.

A handsome black velvet capote is trimmed with black gauze ribbon figured with rose-coloured designs, and a rose and black flower.

Some capotes are edged with a half veil of black blond.

It is proper to notice that black velvet neglige hats are always made somewhat larger than silk hats. Orange-coloured flowers are placed on black velvet

hats.

We could almost venture to predict that pinked feathers will be a standing fashion this winter.

CAPS.-Evening dress caps composed of blond, have very small crowns that leave the lower part of the back of the head uncovered; the trimming in front is thrown far back, but a wreath of small delicate flowers, or a string of dwarf leaves, crosses the forehead.

COIFFURES-have no settled fashion; they are high, low, antique, or modern, according to the taste of the coiffeur, and the cast of the features. Bandeaux are in majority, though the curls descend low down on each side of the face, and form a medium between the smooth bandeaux and the full side curls.

MATERIALS & COLOURS.-Satin is the material most employed at present; the quality and colour indicate the toilet they are best adapted for. For morning or visiting and promenade dresses, the plain dark shaded satins are employed.

Morning, visiting, or promenade dresses, are composed of plain satin, of a dark colour, with a black velvet mantelet over the high mounting corsage, lined with satin, and trimmed with lace or fringe.

For evening demi-toilets, light coloured satins are employed, the sleeves long and wide, rose, blue, maïs or pale green, with embroidered designs of the same colour. Strong satins, with large designs in variegated colours are the richest and most truly magnificent for full dresses. The plaits are wide and support them

selves without any dressing or lining of any sort, as well as those of velvet.

At Williams's we have seen some splendid cloaks in a rich Brocade China Silk, which have in both colour and pattern, a very beautiful appearance.

The colours most employed in trimming black velvet hats, are sea-green, turquois-blue, or the new red colour. Gauzes with satin stripes, intended for ball-dresses, are also employed for evening dresses. Some ladies have ventured them thus: orange, or cherry-coloured gauze, over a black taffeta slip. These gauzes should always be worn over taffeta or gros de Naples, in order that the dead colour of the one should contrast with the brilliancy of the other; the ribbon trimmings are either plain or striped satin.

Printed merino is much employed for neglige dresses. The designs are confused and of various shades, but the greater part are with black designs on a green, blue, red or orange grounds. The corsages of these dresses are made high mounting and a double pelerine.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

PLATE FORTY-FIVE.-FIGURE I.-EVENING DRESS.-A richly figured satin dress, the corsage forming a mantilla; the sleeves short and trimmed with black blond salots; the skirt en cheresque, bordered on each side with black blond. A figured gauze turban, ornamented with feathers.

FIGURE II.---CARRIAGE DRESS.---A satin wichoura,. bordered with astracan fur. A velvet hat, open shape, ornamented with a fine ostrich feather. Coiffure, the hair separated en bandeau, the end plaited and turned up à la Clotilde.

FIGURE III.---EVENING DRESS.---A satin dress, close fitting deep cut corsage with a black blond mantilla; the skirt full wide and ornamented above the hem with

a deep black blond. A satin hat, turned up shape, wider on the sides than in the middle, ornamented with two esprits and cut ribbon egrets; the crown low and flat, encircled by a lace ornament the ends descending on each side below the shoulders forming brides.

FIRST HAT.---A striped satin hat, the shape rather large and slightly turned up at the edge, the crown high and slanting behind, trimmed with large coques of the same material, and ornamented with a bouquet of flowers.

SECOND HAT.---A morning hat of plain velvet, half closed shape, low round crown, trimmed with a nœud in front, no curtain behind, the ties trimmed with a blond.

CENTRE HAT & BACK VIEW.---A velvet hat, small shape descending low down each side of the face, the crown pointed and drawn close towards the top, ornamented with a white feather; a curtain behind.

CAP & BACK VIEW.---An embroidered tulle cap, tworows of trimming in front edged with narrow lace.

PLATE FORTY-SIX.---FIGURE 1.---BALL DRESS.---A crape dress, the corsage deep cut round the shoulders and cross-draped in front, and edged with two rows of leaves progressing in dimension as they reach the extremity of the skirt, three large nœuds disposed at equal distances; the sleeves short and embroidered similarly to the skirt. Coiffure, the hair separated in front, and rolled up in two large curls supported by a

small diadem-bandeau jewelled in the middle, the tresses behind turned up en chou and ornamented with a wreath of roses.

FIGURE II.---OPERA DRESS..--A cloak with large cape descending below the waist and two falling collars. A silvered gauze head-dress ornmented with a paradise bird.

FIGURE III.---CARRIAGE DRESS.---A satin eloak à la Suwarrow with large round cape and falling collar, A velvet bordered all round and in front with velvet. hat, small open shape, round crown, ornamented with a superb feather arching over the shape, the interior trimmed with a blond ornament that spreads out in a fan-like shape and the dents projecting beyond the edge. TOQUE & BACK VIEW.--A velvet toque trimmed with rich blond and ornamented with feathers.

HAT & BACK VIEW.---A terry velvet hat, round shape edged with black blond, flat crown adorned with a bouquet of feathers, and trimmed with coques of the same material as the hat.

COIFFURE & BACK VIEW.---The hair separated on each side of the forehead, turned up in smooth coques figuring a chou, ornamented with corn ears à la Cêrès. PLATE FORTY, SEVEN.--FIGURE 1--EVENING DRESS. ---A striped gauze dress with a sprinkling of small light bouquets, the corsage and short sleeves covered or rather formed by a black blond mantilla forming a point in front and caught up in plaits à la Maintenon over the chest; the sleeves short and ornamented with shoulder nœuds corresponding with those that maintain the front of the corsage. Half-long black lace gloves. Head-dress, a lace dress-cap tastefully trimmed with marabout feathers.

FIGURE IL-WALKING DRESS.---A figured you de soie dress, half high mounting corsage; the skirt made similar to that of a redingote is closed in front by satin ribbon nœuds; the sleeves long and wide towards the shoulder but diminishing and forming a few long plaits figuring a cuff. A black blond m ntelet forming pelerine over the back and shoulders, a square falling collar and turned lappels so indented as to resemble the front part of a gentleman's coat, the ends descending low down the front of the skirt. A satin hat, small open shape, low flat crown, ornamented with a paradise bird.

FIGURE III-WALKING DRESS.---A satin dress, printed with arabesque designs, the corsage close fitting; the sleeves long and wide, gathered at the wrist in long plaits which form the cuff. A black net mantelet lined with silk and edged with black lace. A velvet hat, open shape, high crown, ornamented with an esprit and a veil of black blond. The hair separated in smooth

bandeaux.

crown slanting behind, trimmed with black lace, and ornamented with a paradise bird.

CAP & BACK VIEW.---A tulle cap, trimmed with noeuds of cut ribbon ends.

COIFFURE & BACK VIEW.--The hair separated over the forehead and disposed in very full side curls, turned up behind en chou and the ends descending in two long screw curls and gracefully balancing over the shoulders.

PLATE FORTY-EIGHT.---FIGURE 1.---WALKING DRESS. --A gros de Naples dress, close fitting high mounting corsage with pelerine, the ends fastened under the ceinture and terminated by tassels; the sleeves wide at the shoulders and diminishing gradually towards the wrist where they are closed by a narrow band; the skirt full wide and forming deep folds; a black blond ruche round the neck forming collar. A figured satin hat, small oval shape, high inclined crown, trimmed with figured satin coques, ornamented with a bouquet of fancy flowers.

FIGURE II.---WALKING DRESs.---A velvet redingote, embroidered in front and on the sleeves; a black lace falling collar. A satin hat, small open shape, round crown, trimmed with a blond ornament and two coques.

FIGURE III.---WALKING DRESS.---A gros des Indes dress, ornamented in front with velvet appliqués; the sleeves full wide gradually diminishing towards the A silk wrist and terminated by an ornamented cuff. capote, trimmed with the same material and edged with narrow lace.

HAT & BACK VIEW.---A gros d'Alger hat, small open shape, inclined crown trimmed with ribbon points and ornamented with fancy flowers.

HEAD-DRESS & BACK VIEW.---A Creole coiffure composed of plain foulard.

TURBAN & BACK VIEW.---A saccarilla turban, ornamented with a gold band and cameo.

REVIEW.

pre

Friendship's Offering for 1834.-Smith and Elder. We regret to see some of the illustrations of the sent volume very inferior to former years. We like not Mr. Richter's Portraits, and Stephanoff s "Ball Room" disgraces him. From whom did he copy such caricatures of humanity? We have however been pleased with "Innocence," by Parris, and "Venus and Eneus on the shore of Carthage," is a beautiful design of Martin's, and well engraved by Wallis. The "Albanian" has a pretty landscape, well executed with much sparkling effect by Finden.

In its literature the Editor has been particularly successful; this year's Offering is enriched with some beautiful articles in prose and verse from the pens of many established favourites; Miss Mitford, Banim and Leitch Richie have some good tales, and there is a chapter on Childhood, that has given us much pleasure; while the Editor, Coleridge, Barry Cornwall and Charles Whitehead have contributed many exquisite verses. "The Ippolito" of the last gentleman is a powerful conception, and excites much vivid interest--it is one of the most remarkable poems of the day.

The binding of the volume is judiciously changed from silk to morocco leather, thus adding much to its durability and beauty.

1

MODES DE PARIS ET DE LONDRES. PUISEES AUX SOURCES LES PLUS AUTHENTIQUES. COMPRENANT UN CHOIX D'EXTRAITS DES JOURNAUX DONT LES TITRES SUIVENT:

"Le Follet Courrier des Sutons"--" Le Petit Courrier des Dames"" La Mode"---" Journal des Dames" &c. &c.

MODES. Le satin est une des étoffes employées le plus généralement en ce moment. Le genre de ces satins et leur couleur indiquent à quelles toilettes ils conviennent. Pour le matin, c'est-à-dire pour des visites ou la promenade, ce sont les satins unis, couleur foncée, le double reps, le reps sans envers, le satin princesse, velours des Indes. &c.

Ces robes sont montantes, à mantelets de velours pareil ou noir, doublés de satin et garnis d'une dentelle ou d'une frange.

Pour le soir en petite toilette, ou demi-négligé, on emploie les étoffes de couleur claire pour robe montante, à manches longues et larges. Rose, bleu, maïs ou vert pâle, à dessins brochés couleur sur couleur, sont d'une élégance très-simple, quand la façon est négligée. Les satins trés-forts, à ramages de couleurs variées, sont les plus riches, et vraiment magnifiques. Les plis sont larges et aussi soutenus que ceux du velours, en même temps que moelleux et souples, sans aucun apprêt, se soutenant par sa seule force. Ces satins, désignés sous le nom de satins du grand siècle, conviennent pour une des robes de rigueur á joindre aux robes de velours qui composent une corbeille de mariage.

Des robes de soirée parée se font en tulle ou en crèpe brodé de soie plate. Quelquefois c'est un semé de boutons de roses avec le feuillage, ayant à la hauteur de l'ourlet une guirlande de roses; ou un dessin léger, traçant des lignes délicates en soie blanche sur du blaue ou une couleur tendre; d'autres fois en soie de couleur sur le crêpe ou le tulle de la même couleur.

Des écharpes de tulle noire, brodé en soie noire demitoise, à dessins délicats.

Des écharpes de satin noir, brodées en soie de couleur, se portent en petite toilette; celles de satin rose, bleu, cerise et brodées en noir, sont plutôt laissées aux toilettes du soir.

Il y a de jolis demi-voiles destines à remplacer les blondes au bord des chapeaux; ils sont en tulle, bordés d'une blonde haute de deux ou trois doigts. A côté de l'immense avantage qu'ils offrent pour leur prix, ils ont encore celui de se renouveler souvent, et d'accompagner le visage avec infiniment de douceur et de légéreté.

On voit beaucoup de femmes fort élégantes avec de grands chapeaux à hautes formes, passe trés-longues des joues, la calotte relevant un peu, le bavolet tréslong cache la nuque; on remarquait ces jours derniers au spectacle un de ces chapeaux en satin marron, avec deux branches de scabieuse sortant d'un nœud de satin.

Nous pouvons annoncer que les chapeaux d'hiver ont décidément reçu leur formes déterminée. Nos premiers magasins et nos femmes les plus élégantes ont arrêté les formes très-agrandies, surtout dans la partie qui couvre les joues; les passes ne doivent pas tomber sur le visage, au contraire, elles tendent à relever.

Les rubans de satin et les demi-voiles de dentelle ou velours font les plus élégantes capotes du matin en né

glige.

Sur les bonnets, de petites fleurs près du visage; la blonde basse; peu de rubans.

Pour le soir, de jolis petits chapeaux en velours ou en satin; des turbans turcs en gaze ou en cachemire, sans plumes ni oiseaux, mais riches d'étoffe et de couleurs.

Les grands châles écossais à carreaux, ronge, vert on orange et noir, sont bien portés en extrême négligė, à la place d'un manteau.

On a fait, sur la même disposition que les châles de satin brochê, des châles de laine fond noir, à larges fleurs de couleur pour bordures. Ces châles sont plus chauds que ceux de satin et sont égalemtent três-distingués.

Les façons des robes sont en majorité les draperies croisées; cependant il se porte aussi beaucoup et fort bien des redingotes de fantaisie, ayant sur le devant des brandebourgs de passementerie ou des espèces de dents en étoffe. A l'une des dernières représentations de l'opéra Italien, on a remarqué une redingote de satin bleu saphir, ayant sur le devant des pattes en velours pareil, ces pattes terminées en griffes semblaient retenues à chaque extrémités par un petit gland de soie brillante. Les manches étaient larges et terminées par un poignet de velours rappelant le devant de la jupe; des glands. rotombaient également des manches et des poches.

Au lieu de faire un plissé dans le haut des manches pour abattre les fronces, il faut monter les plis sur une pièce plate qui tient au corsage et s'arrondit du côté qui reçoit les plis.

Nous insistons sur l'ampleur extrême des jupes et la nécessité de faire entrer huit lés dans une robe de gros de Naples ou de satin.

Les corsages en pointe ne s'annoncent pas comme de vant être portès à la ville; s'ils conservent leur faveur cet hiver, ce ne sera que pour le bal ou du moins en grande toilette.

On porte une quantité de jolis mantelets décolletés en satin garni de blonde noire ou blanche. Ils dégagent tout-à-fait les épaules et le dos, croisant sur la poitrine et laissant appercevoir le corsage de la robe. Une haute blonde les garnit, et quelquefois une ruche de tulle.

Un joli mantelet d'étoffe, garni d'une ruche de tulle noir fait collier autour dn cou; on peut employer cette façon pour le velours avec beaucoup de succès, Les écharpes de satin broché ou imprimé sont charmantes; elles ne sont pas exclusivement destinées aux grandes toilettes celles de tulle rayées d'une légère broderie en soie plate, et terminées par un plus large dessin, sont laissées aux toilettes parées.

Les cravates de satin se portent le matin.

Les rubans de satin rose ou bleu à petites mouches noires sont simples et de bon goût. Tous les rubans se tournent autour du cou sans rosettes, et se passent dans la ceinture. On emploie pour cela dés rabans larges très-souples, noirs bordé de cerise, orange, vert ou bleu; le bleu Haïti bordé de cerise, le vert bordé d'orange, sont d'un charmant effet.

On ne porte presqne plus de ruban de gaze autrement que sur les bonnets; ceux que l'on pose sur les chapeaux doivent être très-façonnés en soie mate.

C ARMAND, Printer, 5, Rathbone Place, Oxford street.