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Monthly Journal of Fashion.
LONDON, MARCH 1, 1831.
LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS circled her fair ringlets. Princess Marie's hair FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES,
was separated en bandeau, a small diamond chain INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM
encircled her forehead, and diamond wheat-ears “ The Petit Courrier des Dames”-“ Journal
were gracefully disposed in her coiffure. des Dames et des Modes L'Observateur des Modes
The only distinction of the lady patronesses, et L'indiscret”-“ Le Follet Courrier des Salons"
was a tri-coloured noeud, blue, red, and white, on
the left shoulder; the næuds had been sent to " Le Mercure des Salons,” &c. &c.
them by her majesty. Those ladies had no other BALL DRESSES.
uniform, but white dresses predominated amongst · Ar the late grand ball at Paris, graced with them, particularly those of crape of gauze Donna the presence of royalty, the dresses, though in Maria, silver embroidered on the 'hems. Headmany instances magnificent and splendid in the dresses of feathers, in great variety, principally extreme, were deficient in originality, though white, and many red. elegant and neat. We will, however, mention a Flowers were also seen, as well as berets, and few which, though not entitled to rank in the even hats. Generally, the toilettes were plain ; extraordinaires, being less known, were con- the skirts without trimmings. Bouquets of sidered the most distingueés. This ball, (like all embroidered silk, gold, or silver. The corsages those of its kind), was a mixture of good and trimmed with blond en mantille. A wide blond bad taste; but, for us, who wish, and whose bu falling over short sleeves, as a double sleeve uns siness it is to know how to select and choose, secured. there is an unerring mark, a guide, which never At the grand ball given at the Palais Royal, fails, or can mislead us, PUBLIC APPROBATION. the toilettes were equally plain; the skirts were That we should thus early acknowledge the en ridiculously short, particularly so at the present couragement we have met with, wil, perhaps, time, when ladies affect to appear unskilled in excite the ire of the many-headed monster, who the art of dancing. will, perhaps, call our grateful acknowledgments A young Brazilian lady wore a curious trima vain boast;, such fears shall not, for a moment, ming of feathers, remarkable for the brilliant virestrain us, nor cause us to relax in our en vidness of their colours; the plumage of a vadeavours. So, without descending to a few par riety of tropical birds, such as guara, arara, ticulars, signalized, perhaps, by other journals, parroquets, cosinga, &c. were disposed as artibut which have appeared to us unworthy of no ficial flowers, trimmed with their green leaves. tice, or ungraceful, we will enter en matiere. This brilliant ornament, placed over the knee,
The queen wore a lilas mauve coloured dress, on a dress of white chantilly blond ; six bouquets lightly embroidered with silver. A beret of were placed en biais round the skirt; a seventh same materials, looped up with a diamond chain, fasait montant between the left knee, and the composed of small links; three white feathers. side bouquet. This last, also of similar feaA splendid suit of superb diamonds.
thers, had coloured stones intermingled with the The Princesses Louise and Marie, dresses of flowers which those feathers imitated. A hat white satin, with suits of emeralds set round of the same materials. with diamonds. Princess Louise had a sort of ENSEMBLE DE TOILETTE.-From the mass of garland of the same precious stones, which en- toiletts which were noticed as handsome d'en
semble, and their freshness, we will describe one / Evening Dresses.-A green velvet dress, on of rose-coloured tulle, embroidered above the the skirt of which, large rings, linked one with knee with a garland of rose-buds; the foliage the other, richly embroidered relievo, in gold; embroidered dead silver. The corsage trimmed short sleeves, with blond pagodas, extending with blond, as also the edge of the short leaves. below the elbow. The head-dress, a garland of On the head a garland of short white feathers green and gold corn-ears, mixed. A necklace and a suit of diamonds.
and ear-rings of enamelled green leaves, from A white crape dress, trimmed above the hem which are suspended small golden grapes. with two gold bands. The ceinture, a gold band, Acherry-red cachemire dress, with a wide corsage à la sévigné, fixed near the small bands, gold band above the hem ; a narrower one enwhich maintain the gathers, by long gold clasps.circled the corsage à la Grecque, and the exHead-dress, a paradise bird and a gold suit ; tremity of the mancherons, over which were long and, from the chain, at equal distances, hang blond sleeves. Gold chain round the neck, and light filigree drops.
a chain intermixed with the coques of the headA dress of white gauze, Donna Maria. Above dress. the hem two rows of silver embroidered circles, A white satin dress, trimmed with blond. one within the other. Corsage à la Grecque. Sleeves and mantilla of blond. Crimson gauze Long sleeves of tulle, embroidered similar to the scarf, gold embroidered. Small hat, of crimson skirt. On the hair, a gold chain, highly chased velvet, ornamented with gold torsades, and a and enamelled, forming a net, tied at equal dis- bouquet of white feathers. Gold chain, with tances to form the square where the knot is cameo in the middle of the forehead. Cameo figured with a cameo. The coiffure is neces- suit. sarily low, and rather flattened; the net en! MORNING DRESSES.-The corsages à schall, closed the back of the head only, and was fixed draped and crossed, are much worn. to the top of it. In front, the tufts were of Few sleeves are narrow, and without waistequal dimensions, leaving the temples, unco- bands; but the greater number, and by far the vered. The necklace was formed by two rows of most graceful, are those wide at the shoulder, small cameos, linked by the same sort of chain as and close from the waist to the elbow. the net. Ear-rings similar.
Blond lace is still the ornament most emA dress of cherry-red satin. Corsage trimmed ployed on dresses and the toilet in general. with blond. Short sleeves, covered, with a fall! The corsages are deeper cut than they were of blond, reaching to the band. Head-dress, a last month. row of pearls. Suit of pearls.
With morning-dresses, the ladies wear muslin A rose-coloured striped gauze dress. Black collerettes, with large piping, and satin or velvet velvet béret, with black gauze satin ribbons. neck næuds. Two rose-coloured feathers. Boa of rose The large heavy chains worn last year, are now coloured marabouts, the ends of which were superceded by those called Mexicans, which are black.
of a more delicate texture. Africans appeared in the picturesque costume | Walking Dress.-A merino redingote, corof their country; vests of silk, loaded with gold, sage à schall, as high as the collerette, and wide rich turbans, cimiters, and poniards, sparkling enough to figure a pélerine over the shoulders. with precious stones. Complexions of a copper The shawl; and closing of the skirt, in front, orhue, and long beards, were supinely lolling overnamented with three tucks. the front of one of the dress-circle boxes. Sel Turkey figured silk muslin dresses. This maveral rows of ladies, sparkling with diamonds; terial is much employed for negligé, or half some in all the freshness of youth and beauty; a dress, but without trimmings or ornaments; no greater number still, resplendently dazzling with - | jewellery, or, if any, plain. . dress only.
A printed muslin dress, figuring cachmere de
signs of a dark colour, on a fawn coloured ground; ! A singular hat has lately been made; the crown corsage draped ; sleeves long; the hair tucked up is ribbed, fitting quite close to the head; the with a tortoise-shell comb; a næud of black shape is also ribbed, like Chinese hats, which gauze, and black satin shoes.
they imitate. CAPS.
A very pretty half dress hat of white moire,
with white gauze næuds; a jardinière in two The most handsome at present are of tulle,
bouquets; a næud of pinked ribbon under the with a row of deep blond, a few dwarf flowers,
brim over the forehead. These næuds now are reversed on one side, and four rouleaux of white
seldom worn on the sides; the ends are dentedsatin to hold up the blond. For mourning they are
no bows in the middle. Some hats, have under of black blond; the flowers also black; to which
the brim, a black blond, in thick gathers, proare added blond brides, and a næud, forming two
jecting about two inches all round the shape. large coques, edged with narrow white tulle, and
Coloured satin and moire hats are lined with the placed under the blond : this næud for widows
same materials. caps only.
But few alterations have taken place as yet in At several fashionable millinery establishments,
the shapes. Less velvets. Watered ribbons, we have seen caps, with one side elevated, and
fringed. Blond trimmings. The shape leaving the other considerably depressed ; a palm, com
| the face uncovered. A curtain of blonde. posed of pinked ribbons, ornaments the inside and the exterior. Garlands (of pinked very short dented ribbons) are placed on blond caps.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, An extremely elegant dress cap composed of pink velvet and blond lace: the velvet forms two
PLATE THE NINTH. large wings (rounded,) and the blond, which
FIGURE THE FIRST—WITH BACK VIEW. edges them, is slightly gathered; the crown sufficiently open, to admit the hair and high-backed
Evening Dress.-A light blue silk muslim comb through it.
dress; flat corsage, with plaits terminating en At the opera and evening parties, gold and
pointe. Short beret sleeves, with small noeuds. silver gauze turbans are much worn ; almost all
Skirt short embroidered round the hem. Headturbans have a gold bandeau.
dress—the hair drawn up smooth from the foreBerets are generally of a dark ground, with
head, forming a large coque on the right, and coloured designs or gold. :
two smaller ones on the left, surmonnted by a MANTILLAS, for ball dresses, instead of being
close plait, which twines round the base of the fixed to the edge of the body, as usual, is some
whole ; four feathers tastefully displayed environs times adapted to the collar-forming shawl in
the coiffure, while a fifth, descending on the left front.
shoulder, and relieved with a single flower, a
narcissus, presents a most pleasing and becoming HATS.
head-dress. A sky blue velvet hat, has been seen, the crown
FIGURE THE SECOND. of which was formed by six angles, narrower at
Ball Dress.-A white crape dress; corsage bottom than at the top. · Morning hats of rose-coloured plush, white
crossed. The skirt short; a gauze ribbon above glazed; the crown round like a jockey cap. On
the knee, with transverse ribbons from the hem, the right a bouquet of pinked ribbons, and to the
with nouds and bouquets. Sleeves short, with left, near the shape, a large bow.
manchettes of blond. Head-dress à la chinoise, A crimson velvet hat, with wide brims, orna
with side curls. mented with two white feathers.
FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. Crape hats, contracted shapes, with two feathers MORNING WALKING Dress. — Light green drooping over the shape.
satin dress; high corsage en pointe, edged with
blond, forming mantilla over the shoulders. The three smooth coques, a garland of flowers, and a skirt short, with velvet appliqués and deep hem bouquet; a gold chain and jewel on the forehead; figuring rédingotte. Blond cap, with brides, side curls in clusters. trimmed with gauze ribbon, dented coques, and
FIRST CAP-WITH BACK VIEW. ornamented with flowers: the crown like that of
A plain tulle cap, trimmed with two næuds in a hat. FIRST BERET–WITH BACK VIEW.
the shape of a fan, and ornamented with corn
ears. A rose-coloured beret, ornamented with white
SECOND CAP-WITH BACK VIEW. plumes; the right brim elevated and much wider
An embroidered tulle cap edged with lace, and than the other: the crown low and round like a
| trimmed with gauze ribbon næuds. jockey cap, over which extend five bands fixed to the right brim, gradually decreasing as they unite
COIFFURE_WITH BACK VIEW. in one point on the left, where they terminate The hair separated en bandeau, in front; a with a næud.
smooth full coque over the left side curl, and FIRST CAP-WITH BACK VIEW.
close plaited twines round the base of the two A blond lace cap, studded in front with rose- upper coques, which are supported by a highbuds, richly trimmed with blond-lace and a fichu backed tortoise-shell comb. The effect of this neat en marmotte.
head-dress is in better taste, and much more beCOIFFURE_WITH BACK VIEW.
coming, than many more elaborate and comCoiffure, composed of two elevated cockles,
| plicated coiffures. placed rather obliquely on the left, an open plait
PLATE THE ELEVENTH. winding round the root of the coques, but leaving FIGURE THE FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. a space in order not to press them; they are di Evening Full Dress.-A deep blue satin vided at equal distances in order to leave room
tunic, corsage draped in front, and en cour in the for the introduction of a bow of ribbons between
back; a gold broach, clasps the draped folds toeach. This coiffure is easily executed, neat in
gether. Sleeves short, with long pointed dents, a its appearance and graceful in its proportions.
næud of white satin ribbons on the shoulders. PLATE THE TENTH.
Under dress of gauze, trimmed with silver gauze
rouleaux and nouds; the ends dented. Emerald FIGURE THE FIRST—WITH BACK VIEW.
and ruby necklace, with light filigree drops MORNING WALKING DRESS.- A printed merino
between each link. Coiffure composed of two dress; corsage draped; deep cút round the
elevated coques, placed rather obliquely on the shoulders and crossed. Gigot sleeves. Skirt short. Crape hat open; shape ornamented with
left, an open plait winding round the base of the
coques, but leaving an open space to avoid presswhite feathers, tipped with red; a rich cockade
ing them; they are divided at equal distances nuud under the brim; the ends pointed.
in order to leave sufficient room for the inFIGURE THE SECOND.
troduction of the stem of the feathers, or a CARRIAGE Dress.-A garnet coloured gros de næud of ribbons; a gold chain is tastefully enNaples dress; plain corsage à schall plush lapels: twined with the hair, a jewelled ornament corgigot sleeves. Skirt short. Beret à la Stuart, or responding with the neck-chain is on the forehead, namented with feathers; gold ornaments on the and has three gold filigree drops; the side curls forehead; side curls full.
are in full ringlets. This coiffure is easily exFIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW.
ecuted, though so elegant in its appearance, and Dinnes Dress.-A light amber gros d'orient ;
graceful in its proportions. corsage plain.' Beret sleeves, with mancherons,
FIGURE THE SECOND. deeply dented and edged with narrow lace; a OPERA DRESS.—A rose coloured satin dress, bouquet on the left side. Skirt short. Head-dress corsage deep cut round the shoulders. Short
beret sleeves, terminated with a blond, a noud of neck-chain. The mantilla hangs below the yelgauze ribbon edged with lace; the ceinture is of low corsage, figuring a chemisette. The skirt is gauze ribbon, the ends hanging below the three full wide behind, from the
full wide behind, from the corsage, though with rouleaux, and are tied en næud. The skirt full out plaits or gathers on the hips, and closed in round the waist and very short; three small front. rouleaux above the knee. Black Velvet beret,
FIGURE THE SECOND. ornamented with two rose-coloured feathers.
A FANCY BALL DREss, composed of a green
velvet camisole, setting close to the shape, and FIGURE THE THIRD.
closed in the front. Short flat sleeves, with OPERA DRESS.-Silk muslin dress, silver em
blond trimmings. A double : pointed jockey, broidered ; corsage trimmed with lace, ceinture of satin ribbon tied behind. Skirt short. Gold
edged with a twisted ribbon; blond collerette,
falling in thick gathers over the back. The neck-chain ; the links small.
skirt of white lace, over a satin slip; a double FIGURE THE FOURTH-WITH BACK VIEW. rouleau, knee deep, from the left round the EVENING Dress.A pale green embroidered skirt; the two ends joining en cæur, and closed silk muslin dress, corsage à schall, crossed in
with a rich lace woud on the opposite side. front, and plain behind. Short wide beret sleeves; From the rouleau reaching to them, a fall of a double row of deep lace, forming mantilla, the deep lace, in rich thick folds. White satin beret, bust edged with narrow lace. The skirt short, connected with a net of twisted ribbon. If re.. embroidered round the hem and in front, and a quisite, the end of the net can be fixed on the black chain border. Head-dress, two close plaits side of the camisole. This costume would look en coques, with dwarf flowers tastefully arranged, equally well, if made of crape, with satin lining. full side curls, and gold ornament on the forehead.
FIGURE THE THIRD.
Fancy CostumE.-High corsage of purple A black satin hat; shape open; crown low; or gros de Naples, closed in front, striped muslin namented with nouds of black and yellow gauze sleeves and skirt, wide trowsers, closed at the ribbons; the inside lined with yellow glazed plush. knee. Green velvet cap, with black velvet SECOND HAT_WITH BACK VIEW.
nuud, and feathers in front. A light green gros de Naples hat; the shape
FIRST HALF FIGURE. open; two ornaments of the same materials on
DINNER DRESS.-A rose-coloured satin dress, the left side edged with black lace, a noeud en
ornamented with blond appliqués. Long sleeves coquille and brides.
of blond, sitting close from the wrist to the COIFFURE-IVITH BACK VIEW.
elbow ; full wide from thence to the shoulder; This head-dress, is composed of three smooth deep dented epaulettes, edged with lace. open coques, supported by a gold arrow, and or
SECOND HALF FIGURE. namented with paradise birds and pearls; the hair
WALKING, OR CARRIAGE DRESS.-A greenseparated in front; full side curls.
coloured redingotte, of gros de Naples, cross PLATE THE TWELFTH.
draped à schall pelerine, with two plaits, and edged with silk fringe ; embroidered chemisette.
Sleeves wide, from the shoulder to the elbow, Fancy Ball Costume.-Crape dress, em and close at the wrist, with four bands. Blue broidered with floss silk and silver. Corsage satin hat; shape open ; crown high, ornamented flat; the points on the shoulders edged with with two feathers; lace veil. small piping. The slip of satin, edged with piping. The mantilla similarly edged. Satin rib
FIRST HAT—WITH BACK VIEW. bon head-dress. Watered gauze veil. Berlin A light pink. coloured satin hat, ornamented
FIGURE THE FIRST.