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Monthly Journal of Fashion.
LONDON, JUNE 1, 1831.
· LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS With neglige toilets, cambric is as usual preFROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES,
fered, either with or without embroidery
Some pretty aprons for young ladies, are of INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM
tulle, a wide hem surmounted by a plait, and - The Petit Courrier des Dames”_" Journal
edged all round with dented tulle. The pockets des Dames et des Modes L'Observateur des Modes embroidered and in gathers. A tulle ceinture et L'indiscret”_" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"
tied behind, the edges dented. -“ Le Mercure des Salons,” &c. &c.
But few dresses are made without pelerines of
the same materials; they fall low over the DRESSES.
shoulders, round behind, and in some instances The change of weather has brought no change form a point in gathers in front, which is fixed in the make of dresses. The sleeves are the under the ceinture. same. The skirts are plain. A number of corsages The sleeves are almost all closed at the elbo it are high. A few pelerines are with points. and narrow towards the arm, or circled is it were
For evening and ball dresses, tunics, in gathers by several wristbands, which maintain the folds. at the waist, open in front, not extending below | A little above the hem of the skirt, which does the knee; they allow a view of the under dress, not now reach to the knee; but few if any ornawhich is embroidered round the hem with a Greek ments are employed; two or three narrow scoldesign.
loped trimmings, matching in colour with the The alterations in morning dresses are slight, dress, are the prettiest we have yet seen. and not new; the corsages, gathered en gerbe, The skirts of muslin, gingham, and jaconet seem to be prefered.
dresses, are not in plaits at the ceinture, but in Jockies are large and double, but of different gathers; the plaits as usual with silk dresses. shapes;, the first one is usually almost flat and | The sleeves have varied but slightly since our open; the two ends crossing over one another; last; the only difference which exists at present the under one of a single piece and gathered. is in the wrist and consists of three narrow wrist
Collars are sometimes as many as four, at least bands, placed at small intervals. in appearance, one small very low, round, flat, Pélerines à la Vierge, forming pointe in front, and edged with a narrow lace; the second is of and in the back, are very becoming for morning muslin, plaited in small plaits, and edged with a dresses, when trimmed with thread fringe, same narrow tulle, round plaits; a trimming placed colour as the material of the dress. on the fichre figures the collar, and is plaited in Draped canezous are prefered; a few are ornasmall plaits with scolloped dents; the fourth is mented with shoulder næuds. composed of plaited muslin, edged with narrow Canezou sleeves are no longer close fitting to tulle similar to the second one.
the arm, but widen progressively from the wrist. Plain muslin canezous, have a wide hem, above! We have noticed a lilac and yellow colonade which are two plaits. Others are quite plain, no dress, the corsage of which was en cæur, trimmed seams on the shoulders, and terminate en pointe, with a drapery, separated in the middle by a like the pélerines: no trimmings.
wrist-band; a guimpe of the same materials as The pélerines and collerettes, have a number of the dress, covered the shoulders. This dress, scolloped trimmings, with small plaits, and are though becoming, would have been more habillé much worn.
Thad the guimpe been of embrnidered muslin.
French cambric neck-uoeuds, trimmed with A silk-muslin dress, light pistachio green lace, are in good taste.
ground, with red and black designs on white Scotch thread gloves are getting in high favor. medallions. Above the hem, a small narrow
A few short sleeves have appeared of late at trimming, edged with a small pistachio-coloured evening parties and the theatres.
taffeta liseré. Mantilla corsage, same material ENSEMBLES DE TOILETTES.-An Adelaide blue as the dress. Sleeves long. Head-dress rather silk dress. Sleeves long, and bouffantes towards low; a cherry-coloured ribbon twined in the the shoulders. A plain tulle collerette, à la hair, forming couronne, and terminated by a vierge, forming jockey on the shoulders, andnud en cocarde on the side.
naud en cocarde on the side. A bandeau, with trimmed round the corsage, ornamented with a emerald clasp. A gold chain, encircling the turquoise Sévigné. Head-dress, a Ferronnière, neck twice, the links elongated, and joined by an also of turquoise.
emerald ornament. Gold bracelets, richly chased. A bright rose-coloured crape dress, with a Black gros de Naples shoes. White gloves. fringed rose-coloured satin ribbon shoulder An open rélingote, square cut over the nouds over white sleeves. The skirt orna shoulders. The shawl on the corsage is trimmed mented with a crape and satin trimming, form- with scolloped dents, enlarging towards the ing five square cut pattes, laid contrary ways; shoulders, so as to figure jockeys. The skirt is two of satin, and two of crape.
trimmed with similar dents, but they are fixed to A blue crape lisse dress, with satin slip of the edge of the hem, and turned over. Similar same colour. Corsage, large flat plaits, crossed. dents are also placed on the wristbands, with the Head-dress, a seven-tressed plait, en couronne, points towards the elbow, and forming a kind of surmounted by a high backed tortoise-shell chalice. A cambric chemisette, if the dress is of comb, with open work. A Féronnière on the woollen materials; and, blond, or tulle, if of forehead.
silk. A Leghorn, trimmed with ribbons and A Flora muslin dress, white ground, designs, white gauze, and ornamented with a single intermingled wreaths. Half open corsage, and a fiower; the shape rather close towards the ears. pelerine trimmed with a narrow band, forming Some printed muslin dresses are trimmed fiounce. Ceinture and cravat, rose and green. round the corsage with a deep lace, joining Fichu montant of embroidered muslin, and lace mantilla; or with a falling collar of tulle, with collerette. White capote, lined with rose. Black two or three rows of tulle plaits: those collars or prunella brodequins.
shawls are fixed tú a chemisette which is worn A printed jaconet dress, small close designs of under the corsage; they widen towards the á violet pale .colour, flowers and sprigs inter- shoulders, over which they form points. Gauze, mixed. Skirt, plain. Pélerine, edged with or a cockade of ribbons in the hair, on an opendents. Green-coloured capote, lined with lilac worked back tortoise-shell comb, is generally crape, and ornamented with green taffeta næud adopted with these toilets. glazed lilac. Two plain muslin collars, with a A chaly dress, green ground, and flowered dedeep open worked hem, edged with narrow lace. signs. A cambric pelerine, with square double Black brodequins.
collars, trimmed with scolloped cambrie, plaited A white jaconet dress. Plain skirt.
Plain skirt. A flat small. Green ceinture and cravat. A capote of pélerine of jaconet, forming pointe before and be a lilac-coloured moire, a næud, and cockade. hind, trimmed all round with a deep queen’s Prunella brodequins. blond, in gathers, narrowing as it reaches the ex A Bengal foulard dress, white ground, cachtremities of the points. A rose-coloured gauze mere designs. A pelerine of same materials, næud, cut in points: no coques. A white and with points over the shoulders, edged with a rose ceinture; rose-coloured crape capote, orna fringe; variegated colours, corresponding with mented with a rose-coloured bouquet of feathers. the design. A capote of white moire, lined with Black gros de Naples shoes. Light yellow kid pink. A collar of embroidered muslin. A striped gloves.
gros de Naples cravat. Black prunella shoes.
A grey mohair dress, tulle canezou, with large side, is a third egret, which arches over the crown square jockies, scolloped; long pointed dents. A rose-coloured crape hat, ornamented with A rose-coloured mohair capote, with a bouquet a rose gauze gathered lengthways, and twisted in of rose-coloured feathers. Black prunella shoes. the form of a large cockade; on the edge of the
A white muslin dress, flower wreath designs. ribbon, a narrow light blond, gives the cockade
Some English shaped capotcs, are ornamented
with a full-blown white rose and several small For hats, but particularly for capotes, milliners
sprigs of elm, or a camelia encircled with lilies employ pagne of all shades and colours, as also
of the valley, placed on the right brim, instead of some with blue chequers on a white ground; the
the plumets formerly worn. We have seen some shade prefered is the unbleached, and next to that
of those capotes entirely composed of queen’s. the sea-green; a dented gauze ribbon chou, in the
| blond, embroidered in colonades middle of which is a large white camelia, placed
One of the handsomest capotes, we have yet on the superior part of the shape.
seen, was composed of a bright rose-coloured The open shapes are still in favour, though less
gros de Naples, veiled over by a beautiful India strait than last month; a bouquet of feathers,
muslin, richly embroidered with large bouquets; called panaches, ornament the upper part of the
the bavelot or curtain, also ornamented with shape; the ties are composed of very wide
embroidered wreaths; on one side of the shape, ribbons, trimmed on one side with a blond ruche ;
a cockade, composed of three rows of rose-coone of those ties is placed near the crown over
loured gauze ribbon, intersected by three emthe brim; the other under, near the ear.
broidered bands of muslin, dented, scolloped, and The crowns are generally trimmed with rib
in thick gathers. bons, some with blond -ribbon; in this instance a bouquet of flowers is added.
A capote of green pagne, having the shape of a
helmet, ornamented with a green and rose plume-We have seen a straw-coloured moire hat,
egret. ornamented with six feathers disposed en cha
Several white Leghorn capotes, are ornamented peron in front of the shape, and inclined to the
with a large bouquet, composed of eight or ten left: behind the crown, a deep blond which nearly reached the shoulders.
feathers, rose, blue and yellow, displayed en The round shapes are much smaller than last
étages. season, and inclined on one side; some hats have
A bright rose-coloured crape capote, iced white
over a vivid rose-coloured gros de Naples, ornathe capote shape behind, and, instead of curtain, a continuation of the shape which is turned up en
mented with a very large cockade, formed by three
rows of tulle and three of ribbon; a gauze ribbon coquille. Some white Leghorns, have the top of the
fichu, disposed en marmotte over the crown, crown removed, and the opening filled up by blue
figured the ties. and rose-coloured satin ribbons, plaited some
French shaped capotes, of a rose or yellow what sialar to a Spanish resilla; several ribbon
watered gros-de-Naples, are invariably, with round bouffettes hang over the left shoulder; under the
crowns, plaited en spirale or melon sections, orshape is a small blond colinette, with blue or rose,
namented with a sprig of mallows in bloom. coloured ribbon brides. A ribbon egret, or long
Some Leghorn capotes are lined with moire, and feather placed in a slanting direction over the
ornamented with a large flower, which bends over shape and brims, are the ornaments of these hats.
| the shape; and a single ribbon across the crown · A white Leghorn bat, ornamented with two blue
which ties under the chin. egrets with white curled tufts, uniting on the
Capotes of white gros de Naples have a wide right hand side of the shape; ou the opposite
| straw plait round the brim, which tress or plait,