turns up behind on each side of the shape, and Embroidered china crape shawls, of various encircles the base of a large ribbon cockade. colours, representing arabesques or other gothic designs. Some have a large rosace in the middle, CAPS. and in each corner, with a narrow border. Blond caps are now made so light, that it can White gauze scarfs, embroidered, some with no longer be said of them that they seem to add white, some with coloured floss silk. to the years of the wearer. The blond in front, For fichus, embroidered gauze, China crape, or is of very light designs, and turned up by a few a light woollen tissue called cachemere muslin. light coloured gauze ribbon coques; the same attention is paid in employing flowers of such DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. delicate hues only, as are most becoming to the complexion.. PLATE THE TWENTY-FIRST. The richness of blond caps, consists in the FIGURE THE FIRST—WITH BACK VIEW. beauty of the barbes, which have superseded the ribbon ties. PROMENADE DRESS.—A printed muslin dress; Coloured ribbons are entirely discarded, except the corsage flat. The sleeves long, close at the on blond caps; næuds are made with tulle bands, wrist and widening progressively towards the trimmed with narrow lace or else scolloped. The elbow, but full wide from thence to the shoulder. trimmings are not now so high as formerly. Half- | The skirt full, ornamented with an embroidered dress caps, have several rows of trimming on one muslin band above the hem. Ceinture of emside, which forms a large tuft; on the other, a broidered muslin, closed in front by a gold buckle. naud of tulle, under a single row of trimming. A white muslin pelerine en pointe, the points in HEAD-DRESSES. front, are crossed under the ceinture and spread on the skirt; a falling collar formed by two rows At the King's Theatre, we noticed a coiffure of scolloped dents, and a ruche round the throat; composed of a plaited tress en couronne, to the four rows of pointed scolloped dents extending right of the plait, a bouquet of roses. over the shoulders and forming jockies. A white Another head-dress, was composed of a single crape hat trimmed with a gauffered gauze ornacoque, supported by an open-worked tortoise-shell ment in the shape of an open fan, with silk comb figuring five large leaves. gauze ribbon næuds on the small round shape; The coiffure, heing naturally much contracted the crown low and flat; gauze ribbon ties; the by the small shaped capotes; the curls are now inside of the shape, ornamented with a single worn more on the side of the face, than over the næud of gauze ribbon, the ends dented. Headforehead. dress, full side curls, ornamented with small chain In general, but little of the hair is allowed to and gold mounted jewel on the forehead. Black be seen under the cap trimmings. Coques, or prunella shoes. bandeaus, are prefered to curls. High backed open-woked tortoise-shell combs, FIGURE THE SECOND. are generally adopted; with a few ribbons they WALKING DRESS.-A lilac chaly wrapper, almost complete a head-dress. printed chinese designs. Large pelerine of same MATERIALS AND COLOURS. materials, with deep points edged with a narrow Chinese border; the points terminated by tassels, The new ginghams, are flowered designs and Wide open sleeves à la Turque. A cambric chelarge bouquets, on a blue or lilac ground. Others misette with falling collar, embroidered designs arewith wide china stripes. corresponding with that of the border on the Muslins also with stripes, white on white, pelerine. A richly embroidered blond cap, ornawien printed bouquets of bright vivid colours, mented with white and green gauze ribbon næuds, Chequered gros de Naples, is much employed l the ends dented. Ceinture of green satin ribbon for walking dresses... tied in front. FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. stiped muslin dress, printed small designs. Sleeves close at the wrist, but widening proWALKING DRESS.-A light yellow gros de gressively towards the elbow, and swelling out full Naples dress, printed small colonade designs. wide from thence to the shoulder. An embroi. High mounting flat corsage with flat plaits across dered muslin pelerine, forming épaulettes, and the chest; the bust edged with narrow tulle; trimmed with a double row of scolloped dents; a wide épaulettes of the same materials figuring square falling collar also edged with scolloped shawl, the points crossed under the ceinture, ex dents, and closed near the throat by a noud. A tends in rounded dents over the sleeves and edged round contracted open shaped rose-coloured gros with narrow lace in thick gathers. The sleeves de Naples hat, the crown flat on the top and rather full wide from the shoulder to the elbow, and high, ornamented with a ribbon næud and fancy gradually diminishing from thence, to the wrist, flowers; the ties placed under the brims near where they are closed by a wide wristband. The the ear. skirt full, and ornamented above the knee by a trimming figuring crevés. A lilac gauze scarf, the FIGURE THE SECOND. ends fringed. A white gros de Naples hat, small EVENING Dress.—A lavender coloured gros de round shape, ornamented with white feathers Naples dress; cross-draped corsage, deep cut drooping over the shape; under the brims, two round the shoulders, and ornamented with three ribbon egrets and figured gauze ribbon ties. rows of richly embroidered scolloped Brussels Head-dress, the hair separated in front en bandeau, point lace falling over the back and shoulders, with two close plaits. figuring mantilla. Short beret sleeves, edged round the wristband with narrow lace. The skirt FIRST CAPOTE-WITH BACK VIEW. embroidered knee deep, with gold leaves and A white watered gros de Naples capote, shape flowers. Head-dress, composed of two smooth round; crown low and round; a bavelot or coques and a close plait, ornamented with flowers; curtain; green and white figured gauze ribbon an open worked tortoise shell comb figuring large trimmings and næuds. leaves; full side curls. A yellow scarf. FIRST HAT.--WITH BACK VIEW. FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. A rose-coloured gros de Naples hat, capote hat, capote | Dinner DRESS.—A pale amber coloured chali shape lined white crape, square cut round the dress; corsage en cæur, embroidered round the ears; the crown flat and low, the top removed edge with floss silk of the same colour as the dress. and figured by plaited ribbon forming chequers, Long wide sleeves siinilarly embroidered. Skirt and trimmed with an embroidered tulle ornament full and embroidered round the hem with fancy forming a wreath, which is closed on the left side flowers and leaves. Low cambric chemisette, by a white gauze ribbon næud, ornamented with edged round the bust with narrow lace. A blond corn-ear and green leaves; a rose-coloured ribbon cap forming auréolle round the face, and orna. egret under the shape: and ties. mented with flowers and ribbon næuds; gauze COIFFURE-WITH BACK VIEW. ribbon ties. A single coque, entwined at its base, with the FIRST CAP-WITH BACK VIEW. end of tress close plaited and supported with a A gauffered tulle cap, low round crown, ornahigh backed open worked tortoise-shell comb, mented with a single noud of dented gauze and surmounted with an embroidered scolloped ribbon in front, and small bow behind. gauze ornament: full side curls. SECOND CAP-WITH BACK VIEW. An embroidered tulle cap, low round crown FIGURE THE FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. plaited in melon sections, and ornamented with CARRIAGE Dress.-A rose and light greenrose-coloured ribbon nauds, tastefuly arranged on the left side, and a wreath of flowers extending' SECOND HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. from the side næud to the crown. A pink moire hat, capote shape, crown round, COIFFURE_WITH BACK VIEW. ornanented with an embroidered tulle, crevées, Three smooth coques, en échelons, with full side and a bouquet of ! and a bouquet of Persia lilac. curls, ornamented with flowers, and a row of THIRD HAT–WITH BACK VIEW. pearls, forming crescent over the forehead. A light-coloured moire hat, small round shape, · PLATE THE TWENTY-THIRD. a pink crape dented ornament spreading over the FIGURE THE FIRST. shape, surmounted by a branch of moss roses; Walking DRESS.—A foulard dress, amber the shape lined with white crape. ground with printed designs. A muslin canezou, FOURTH HAT WITH_BACK VIEW. square double collars, embroidered muslin fall A yellow moire hat, open shape, round crown, forming shawl, and edged round the body with trimmed with green gauze ribbons, and ornascolloped embroidery figuring épaulettes. White mented with fancy flowers. Leghorn hat, cottage shape, square cut round the ears, trimmed with ribbon næuds, and ornamented COIFFURE WITH BACK VIEW. with fancy flowers; figured gauze ribbon ties. Head-dress composed of three smooth coques, FIGURE THE SECOND. encircled at their base by a close plait, and surCARRIAGE DRESS.-A green-coloured moire mounted by a fourth coque, crépée; the hair dress; corsage à la Grecque. The skirt plain. | turned up from the forehead; the side curls exWide sleeves of embroidered tulle. with cuffs a tending rather low down the side of the face. la Marie Stuart. White silk-gauze scarf, figured PLATE THE TWENTY-FOURTH. border à la Turquc. Blond cap ornamented in front with a gauze ribbon næuil. Full side curls. FIGURE THE FIRST. Yellow gauze ribbon hat, shape open, crown Morning Dress.-A light green silk muslin round and slanting, trimmed with næuds, and or dress, flat corsage covered with a mantilla pelerine namented with three white feathers drooping of embroidered tulle, edged with a rich blond, in over the shape. Black gros de Naples shoes. thick gathers, forming jockey over the sleeve; FIGURE THE THIRD. three rows of scolloped tulle in round plaits, MORNING DRESS.–A deep pink jaconet dress; forming ruche round the throat. Sleeves same high corsage à guimpe, with wings. forming materials as the dress; wide from the shoulder to épaulettes over the shoulder. Sleeves wide from the elbow, close fitting from thence to the wristthe shoulder to the elbow. Skirt trimmed above band. Skirt plain. Ceinture a blue and red the knee, with a round dented flounce in thick satin ribbon. A blond cap, disposed en coquille, gathers. A white gauze scarf. White gros de and tastefully ornamented with fancy flowers and Naples hat, small round open shape, square flat næuds. A bavelot or curtain turned up behind, crown, ornamented with a striped ribbon coque, allowing the hair to be seen; gauze ribbon ties, edged with blond, muds, and flowers; striped . FIGURE THE SECOND. gauze ribbon ties. The hair en bandeau, side curls in clusters, separated by a næud. Walking Dress.—A jaconet dress, flat cor sage. A muslin pelerine, with double collars, FIRST HAT–WITH BACK VIEW. ornamented round the curve with an embroiA white Leghorn hat, shape contracted, crown dered tulle band, which is edged with a pinked slanting, ornamented with gauze ribbon nauds, scolloped muslin trimming, in gathers. The and myrtle branches, extending over the front of sleeves wide. The skirt plain. A moire hat, the shape; a ribbon ornament edged with blond, shape rather sunk, or flattened in front, cut figuring a leaf under the left brim. square round the ears; a curtain behind ; the crown low, flat on the top; ornamented with COIFFURE_WITH BACK VIEW. feathers and ribbons. Full side-curls. This head-dress is composed of three coques, two smooth, and one open plaited; the first reFIGURE THÉ THIRD. clining on the summit of the head; the second, Carriage Dress.-An Adelaide gros de elevated, and somewhat apart, leaves an opening Naples redingote, corsage à guimpe, and pe- for a bunch of orange-blossoms; the third, or lerine with arches, terminated by tassels; sleeves open plaited coque, is entwined at its base by a full wide at the shoulders. The skirt closed smooth tress, which joins it to the other two : in front, by appliqueé ornaments and tassels, the whole surmounted by a rich blond ornament; widening gradually from the ceinture to the edge the hair separated in front, a half wreath of of the skirt. A tulle ruche round the neck. A orange-blossoms across the forehead, and full yellow-coloured moire hat, round open shape, side-curls, complete this elegant and tastefal and inclined flat crown, ornamented with em coiffure. broidered tulle næuds, coques, and corn-ears; tulle ties fixed under the brim, near the ears. Full side-curls. A chain of hair and gold or. Music. pament on the forehead. Aria Graziosa and Rondo Pastorale, for the FIRST HAT. Piano-forte.-By J. F. Danneley— Paine and HopA white gros de Naples half-dress hat, lined | Kins.--A pleasing little composition, well adapted to with blue crape; the right brim extending more juvenile performers. than the left; the crown very low, trimmed with | Away, away to the Mountain's Brow-A. Cagauze bows, and ornamented with a bouquet of vatina, in the new Opera of the Devil's Brother-fancy flowers; the ties trimmed with gauze, By A. Lee Lee.—Lively, elegant, and graceful. figuring the brides of a cap. There are a few bars in E. Minor, resolving into D. Major, most tastefully introduced, which, on reSECOND HAT. turning to the first part of the song, produce the most A white satin dress hat, round open shape, or delightful effect. This is certainly, to our taste, one namented with three white ostrich feathers. of the sweetest of Alexander Lee's compositions. Come forth, the Moon is shining-By J. F. THIRD HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. Reddie—Dale and Co.—The words of this serenade A lilac muslin capote, round slanting crown, are not much calculated to inspire musical ideas, and trimmed with dented gauze ribbon. had, we presume, that unfortunate effect on the mind of the composer. FOURTH HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. The Portuguese Captive–The words by Miss de A watered silk capote, cut square round the Pontigny—The music by S. Godbe. A miserable ears, and ornamented with a bouquet of feathers; and disjointed attempt at effect, and not entirely free a ribbon naud above the curtain. A blond in from plagiarism. gathers under the shape, figuring bloud cap. The Garcon l'espers—The poetry by R. Pigott The music by D. Lee.—A very sweet air, full of simFIFTH HAT. plicity, and deriving a charm nearly a kin to meA rose-coloured morning hat, small round lancholy, which the introduction of the effect of bells shape, cut square round the ears; crown low gives to scenes and subjects with which they are asand slanting; trimmed with ribbon nõuds in sociated. front, and fancy flowers. The Lake of Gencvu.—A serenade for two voices, written and composed by H. Mundy-Hawes.SIXTH HAT. Pleasing, but does not exhibit much originality. A light yellow moire hat, lined with deep pink, The Midnight Moon.—A serenade, by E. J. capote shape; crown low, ornamented with Westrop-Z. T. PURDAY.—A serenade! A soporific, ribbon bows and wild flowers; the ties trimined we should rather term it, for we cannot discover any with blond. All solemnly our dirge shall speak, Upon the knee we'll bend, And tho' each bursting heart would break, Mourn this departing friend. Solem and slow the harp shall sound, And sweetly shall the song To tell our grief so strong. Like mourners o'er a tomb— But linger on in gloom. No! no!—the sunshine of the bowl Unclouded now is seen, The spirit's quick career will roll, Nor sorrow intervene. Our dirge-our requiem cast aside, The wine-cup's balm will bring The current of its richest tide, And thus its praise we sing. thing in it that would serve the intention of the former. You told me once-Composed by S. Wesley, junHawes.-An elegant little ballad. The accompaniment shews a good knowledge of harmony. Here's a Health to all honest Men.—A ballad, composed by W. Ball— FALKNER—A very spirited and jovial song, and well calculated to promote harmony among convivial spirits. Where yon grey Rock-A song, from Auber's Opera of Tra Diavolo--CHAPPELL.—This dramatic and effective song is well arranged by A. Lee. Lassie roam wi' me—A ballad, sung by BrahamComposed by S. Nelson-Words by B. Webster.One of those imitations of Scotch ballads which are so frequently attempted with very little success. We do not know what it might have been in the hands of Braham, but should imagine, that with the generality of singers, it would fail in exciting much interest. The Roving Bee—A ballad, composed by J. Baker-Symphonies and accompaniment, by J. T. Craven.-An agreeable little air, with a pretty flowing accompaniment. Grande Fantaisie sur le théme Ecossais. 0! Logie o' Buchan-JOHANNING and WHATMORE.The theme of a piece selected for variations, should, in our opinion, be kept entirely to the simplicity of the original, and not in the least embellished or disguised by any superfluous notes. The composer of this piece, does not seem to entertain the same ideas as he has in the second part of the subject, even departed from the air itself. In fact, the air is a text, which, if not impressed clearly and intelligibly on the mind in the first instance, we lose the charm that would be otherwise created by a judicious division of the subject into different heads, which again should all be placed before the mind with a close reference to the original, throughout the whole piece. The variations are brilliant, especially the sixth, with the chromatic passages, and requires considerable execution.—The introduction of the Scoich Air, “ There's nae luck about the house,” is judiciously chosen as a finale. To * * * * * * Tis summer and the azure sky In mellow'd lustre beams, And soft and sweet the Zephyr's sigh With pregnant odour teems; The leaf is green, the bud is bright, The blossom in its bloom, And flow'rs, in rain-bow beauty bright, Breathe forth intense perfume. The groves and hills with music vie, With music flows the stream, And spells of dreary sweetness lie Bencath the sun-set gleam. Yet though, beheld by other eyes, This smiles a fairy sphere, To me 'tis rob’d in chilling guise, For oh! thou art not here! Chanson a Boire. Ere its bright contents are drunk; That else in care had sunk. E'en thus joy's captivating hues Were dark and drear to me, And life its Circcan charms must lose, l'nsecur-unshar'd with thee! EDWARD. |