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Monhtly Journal of Fashion,

No. 7.

LONDON, JULY 1, 1831.

Vol. 1.

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS | nam; black brodequins; a gold chain composed

of square links. FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES,

A jaconet dress, deep green ground, with bou. INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM

quet of heath blossoms; a cambric pelerine, with The Petit Courrier des Dames"---- Journal

small plaits; a capote of moire, ornamented with des Dames et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes

a bouquet of hearts-ease. et Lindiscret---"Le Follet Courrier des Salons"

A white muslin dress, embroidered in front ---" Le Mercure des Salons, &c. &c.

above the hem; a chemisette with a fall of em

broidered tulle; a suit of Brazil flies; in the hair DRESSES.

a large brooch set round with the above mentioned

flies; enamelled bracelets; black satin shoes; No alteration has taken place in the make of white gloves. dresses ; the pélerines are nearly all of a similar A joconet dress, with embroidered garlands pattern, generally edged with scolloped trim- forming dents; Nat corsage high over the shoulmings, or only a deep hem, above which is a small ders with small garlands embroidered en biais, fancy ornament: liseré, piping, embroidery, fringe similar to the skirt; white Leghorn hat, orna&c. They are almost all en schale in front, and mented with a bouquet of lilac-coloured feathers, the ends crossed over the ceinture.

extending over the front of the shape, and trimA number of guimpes, same material as the med with dented lilac-coloured gauze ribbon. dress, are worn under draped or shawl corsages ; A coffee coloured gros de Naples dress, small they are still extravagantly wide towards the upper squares formed by black and white stripes, alterpart, and close fitting from the elbow to the wrist; nately disposed; pèlerine of the same material morning wrappers, however, are still with sleeves with dents; a pale green, violet, and white, full from the shoulder to the wrist; and large scotch plaid silk capote, the shape in long plaits, square cape-collars.

ornamented with a næud of wide striped ribbon. A great number of redingotes, of gros d'été, A green muslin dress, the designs white; an and figured gros-de-Naples, lilac, pearl-grey, and embroidered jaconet pélerine, flat in front, with sea-green.

small lappels; a Leghorn hat, ornamented with a White jaconet dresses, with wide garlands em bouquet of violets and a white camelia; puce broidered knee deep, and three or four montans coloured spanish leather shoes. nearly reaching the ceinture; pigeon-breast co A fawn coloured chali dress, with red designs; loured silk-wove gingham skirts, with jaconet muslin canezou, the collar and jockies terminated canezous, embroidered en plain, or in colonades; by rounded points trimmed with lace; a cravat others are of Scotch cambric, with an embroi- of a lilac-coloured gros de Naples; a pearl-grey dered shawl-collar, trimmed with a triple row of moire capote, lined with pale green and ornascolloped tulle.

mented with a bouquet of green corn-ears. Brodequins are generally of the same colour as A lilac-coloured muslin dress, small red flowers the dress, or of a dusty grey.

and foliage designs; corsage cross draped; sleeves ENSEMBLES DE TOILETTES.—A light yellow chali terminated by three small wristbands; muslin pé dress, with garlands of violet, red, and green lerine embroidered all round the curve; Tuscany flowers; embroidered muslin pelerine; a Leghorn straw hat, trimmed with white ribbons and ornahat, ornamented with two branches of labur- | mented with a full blown Iris.

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A white Bengal foulard dress, flowers in colon- j 'chintzed ribbon. White Leghorn hat, ornaades corsage high and in gathers; embroidered mented with a bouquet of feathers. Shoes, or tulle canezou, edged round with lace, the front boots, of light-coloured gros de Naples. with lappels, double jockies the ends dented, EVENING TOILETS.—A painted organdy dress. collar also dented; foulard cravat; white Leghorn Short sleeves, a tulle canezou, with long sleeves, hat trimmed with green ribbons, and ornamented and open corsage, deep cut round the shoulders, with snow-drops and two green bows.

à la vierge. Neoklace, ear-rings, and a ferA persia organdy dress; deep cut corsage,

ronnier, of enamelled gold. In the hair, a næud with pélerine in points, edged with narrow silk formed by two ribbon coques, one end hanging fringe, the colours matching those of the dress; down the side of the neck. sleeves long; head-drees, the hair turned up en

An organdy dress, painted Arabic designs, in couronne, a noeud of black gauze, and a Ferron colonades, green and lilac. Pelerine corsage, nière; black gros de Naples shoes; white gloves;

deep cut round the shoulders, and trimmed with A dress of India muslin, blue ground, with

lace. The skirt ornamented above the hem flowered designs over white rosaces; the corsage,

with a narrow volant, edged with a similar lace à la grecque, jockies en pointes, terminated by to the pelerine ; head-dress, a noeud of lilac and small næuds; white crape sleeves; the hair turned

green gauze ribbon ; a Ferronnièrc necklace; up en couronne, no curls on the sides, but a tuft

black gros de Naples shoes; white gloves. of blue ribbons with dented ends, projecting

A dress of white gauze, with violet and rather forward; gros de Naples shoes; 'white yellow marble veins, and a sprinkling of small gloves; a scarf of white gauze (imitation blond). / red flowers; open draped corsage, the jockies First NEGLIGE.-A wrapper of white jaconet,

dented; white sleeves ; head-dress, a Ferronwith a very narrow embroidery immediately above

niére, composed of two rows of gold pearls, fasthe hem; a cambric chemisette and falling collar, tened by an engraved amythist; a gold necktrimmed with lace, the cusls similarly embroidered; chain; gros de Naples shoes; white gloves. a small "pearl-grey silk apron, edged all round A turquois-blue jaconet dress, richly figured by an embroidered garland, done in bright co- | Arabic designs ; muslin pelerine, embroidered loured silks; a blond fichu, tied en marmotte

round the curve, which is terminated by a row of under the chin; half gloves, of straw-coloured dents, trimmed with narrow lace, a small square Scotch thread knitting, with black embroidery;

collar, and also a double collar, similarly ornaslippers en petit points, and bound with narrow

mented; a straw capote, striped with white, plaited ribbon.

and adorned with a bouquet of heath-flowers; Second NEGLIGE.—A fancy muslin or linen black prunella shoes. foulard dress, ornamented with deep trimmings, A rose-coloured plain muslin dress ; long which extend over the shoulders and breast, and sleeves, fiat corsage, deep cut round the shoulfigures a fichu.

ders : a double mantilla of plain tulle : headTHIRD NEGLIGE.-A wrapper of white jaconet, dress, a Ferronniere, with a bouquet of green small designs of variegated colours; a large pele

corn-ears; placed a little on one side, at the back rine falling low down the back and over the arms, of the coiffure; a gold necklace, in two rows, the ends in rounded points, crossed under the cein closed by a jewelled clasp of coloured stones: ture; a waistband of same material as the wrap

black satin shoes; white gloves ; side bouquet. · per; a cambric collerette, plaited in festoons; a

PELERINES. tulle cap, edged with lace, the næuds and ties also of tulle, no ribbons; prunella shoes.

Amidst the variety of pelerines, from those PROMENADE Toilet.—A chaly dress, with

that are edged with tulle, or ornamented with bouquets, or small garlands, forming colonades.

narrow trimmings, in gathers, forming volant, Shawl, or draped corsage, under which, a ca

down to those that are plain, and without any ornezou, with long sleeves of embroidered muslin. nament or trimmings, the shades are so 'nuPlain gauze scarf. Bracelets, and ceinture, of merous, that it would be almost impossible to

describe them : but some have been made this

Blue and grey are the two colours most emweek, of which we will give the design in our ployed at present. next number), forming a point before and behind, Pagne, of all shades, is much employed for with jockies cut in round points, ornamented all capotes, particularly grey or blue. round with a narrow trimming, in thick gathers.

HEAD-DRESSES. Others, forming a point in front, the back rounded; on the shoulders three points, the

The capote shapes have obliged the ladies to middle one extending beyond the other two.

wear the side-curls lower down the face, than

formerly. The hair separated in front, en HATS.

bandeau, is now entirely out of fashion, so mu h Dress-hats, of white moire, are trimmed with so, that the sultriness of the weather even, would a deep blond, which is turned up on the right, not be admitted as a sufficient excuse against the over the brim, to which it is fastened by a dwarf decrees of the goddess of fashion; they must be rose, forming part of a long branch of rose-tree, turned up, à la Chinoise, and brought forward with blossoms, which, encircling the crown, sur over the forehead; the curls behind. mounts the hat.

MATERIALS AND COLOURS. Some hats have a diadem of rose-buds, or wild

PAGNE.—We now have rose, green, and blueflowers, under the shape: two bouquets of the

coloured pagne lustered white. This material same sort of flowers are placed on the shape, in

imitates the lined muslin which is employed for the form of a V.

morning capotes. We have seen two beautiful Leghorn hats, or

We have seen a new jaconet, intended for namented near the crown, with a branch of

dresses, consisting of half wide stripes, between cactus, in bloom, which circled round the shape,

each of which is a garland of damasked flowers. and rose on the right, above the crown.

Muslins, in general, are of a light, or white On crape and white Leghorn hats, a sprig of laburnam placed on the "right, near the crown,

ground, figured with leaves and flowers, of all

colours and hues. For redingotes, small designs, and arched over the shape, the end drooping on the left brim.

brown and green, on a white ground, is much emThe cockades · which ornament most hats, is

ployed; also jaconets, with alternate white and formed by rose-coloured gauze ribbons, of dif

coloured stripes, jaspered in their shades, ferent shades, in gathers, and twisted en spirale ; this arrangement gives them the appearance of

FASHIONS FOR YOUNG LADIES. a large poppy. Other cockades, of the same sort, have the ribbon edged with a very narrow Children's caps' are ornamented with narrow blond, which gives it a light and graceful ap- ribbons, similar to those employed on ladies hats. pearance.

The handsomest ca potes are of white lustered CAPOTES.

jaconet : the shape lined with pink, the crown Many white Leghorn capotes have the shapes straight ; a jaconet noeud. lined with blue or bright rose-coloured crape, and Short silk aprons, edged in front with pointed ornamented with a bouquet-panaches of feathers, | dents : the corsage en coeur, forming jockey on either rose, blue, green, or straw-colour; others

the shoulders ; those jockies are terminated by have a large bouquet of roses, camomile, ever large pointed dents. lastings, or blue-bells.

This mode is much more convenient than the Some handsome white crape capotes have the tuyaux trimmings, which a child could not wear shape supported by five bands of tressed straw, above an hour, without it being rumpled. placed lengthways; three other bands are circled Jaconet dresses have a flat, deep cut corsage, round the shape, which is round; a large bouquet with a simulated pelerine ; on the corsage is of snow-drops, or of plantain, in bloom, is placed placed a trimming, in gathers, which, forming en pompon on the upper front part of the crown.

a point, reaches the ceinture, turns over the

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sboulders, and on the back, where it formspearls, with diamond drops. Head-dress, comanother point.

posed of two smooth coques on the summit of the The square corsages have a wrist in the whole head, and a close plaited tress, ornamented with length. Flat epaulettes are still used, and make gold set emeralds, figuring a star, and sur. a very handsome appearance.

mounted by two ostrich feathers. White satin The trowsers are closed near the ancle, in the shoes. White gloves. same manner as a sleeve, by a wrist, which

FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. buttons, and are trimmed with one or two muslin

MORNING DRESS.—A green muslin dress, with bands.

printed designs in front of the skirt, and round the hem. Long sleeves, wide from the shoulder

to the elbow, half wide from thence to the wrist. DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

An embroidered cambric pelerine, forming point

on the back, with falling collar, edged with tulle, PLATE TWENTY-FIVE.

in full gathers, trimmed with a double row of FIGURE THE FINST–WITH BACK VIEW.

scolloped lace round the curve, and figuring

jockies on the shoulders. A white Leghorn hat, WALKING DRESS.-A white muslin dress, the

capote shape, cut square round the ears, with a corsage flat, and deep cut round the shoulders,

curtain behind, trimmed with pink gauze ribbon and edged round the bust with a fall of em

fichu, and noud, and ornamented with a bouquet broidered tulle, with pointed dents; the sleeves

of feathers, gauze ribbon næud under the shape, long and wide at the shoulders, but close fitting

and ties. Black prunella shoes. from the elbow to the wrist, and trimmed with embroidered tulle ; the skirt plain, a deep hem

FIRST HAT_WITH BACK VIEW. reaching above the knee. A crimson cachemere A light green silk hat, round shape, the crown shawl, with white border, over the neck, figures round and sloping, trimmed with a blond ornaa boa. A white Leghorn hat, short contracted ment, extending over the shape, ornamented shape, elevated in front, the crown flat, and with rose-coloured ribbon nouds, the ends slightly inclined, a ribbon crown winds round its dented, and fancy flowers. . base on the left side, aud terminates by a noud,

SECOND HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. in the center of which is a bouquet of full blown

A pale lilac-coloured capote, ornamented with roses and rose-buds. The inside of the shape is

| scolloped muslin and gauze ribbon nouds and ornamented with a green ribbon egret. A cock

ties. ade of rose-coloured ribbou, edged with scol

HEAD-DRESS_WITH BACK VIEW. lodped blond lace, the ends of which, similarly edged, compose the ties.

This coiffure, composed of three smooth coques,

en échellons, and three close plaited tresses, al. FIGURE THE SECOND.

ternately raised over the forehead. The coques OPERA DRESS.-A white satin dress, flat are surmounted by two rows of close curls, which corsage, deep cut 'round the shoulders, and em- rise en échallon, from the back ef the head, a broidered in silk, and ornamented with a rich high backed open-worked tortoise-shell comb, terre d'Egypte coloured green satin bodice, cut and full side-curls. à l'antique, close fitting to the shape, opening in front, and the contour of the design edged with gold lace. The pointes round the bodice, placed

PLATE TWENTY-SIX. at equal distances, undulating on the skirt,

FIGURE THE FIRST. reaching nearly to the knee, and also edged with MORNING DRESS.-A rose-coloured chaly gold lace. Short sleeves, covered with a deep | dress, flat corsage, with points. Sleeves long fall of richly embroidered lace, in full gathers, and wide, from the shoulder to the wrist. The forming épaulettes. Necklace, a double row of skirt ample, and extending below the ancle. A

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