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And the wife hath grown a mother

Her delights have found another,

Fairer and beyond the rest.

Look! What lieth in her breast?

Look, around its eyes are hung

The smiles she owned when she was young,

All that in bright confusion lay,

And witched us in her earlier day.

Time moves! A grief that does not speak

Now sits upon her altered cheek;

Her eyes are dim with widow's tears,

Her heart weighed down by a mother's fears.

Still young, still fair, and full of grace,

She yet doth keep her lonely place:
Nor rank nor gold can tempt her pride

To shine a second time a bride.

Time speeds! The soft meridian light
Descendeth slowly into night.

June fades-wild autumn sends her showers-
And, clad in glooms, December lowers,
Or sheds his whiteness on the land.
The widow!- ah! she takes her stand
Upon an elder, higher range,
And findeth still a graver change.
Decrepit-old-she draweth near
The last scene of her long career.
Her child by other ties is bound-
Another race is on the ground.
She groweth deaf she groweth blind,
Oblivion creeps upon her mind.

What need of more ?-a little mould-
A prayer and all her tale is told!

-By Barry Cornwall; from "Ages of Female Beauty."

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

DRESSES.-The flat corsage in general prevails; small piping either en cœur or waving, progressing towards a point, or in parallel lines is much used. The mode en pointe is as general as throughout the season.

The mantilla with lace edging is frequently laid on flat, perhaps more so than full, the mode of pointing over the shoulder and neck is not in frequent use.

There are more short sleeves with the accompaniment of the elegant mittens before spoken of, than formerly. Spencers are by no means uncommon, those in velvet at present predominate, they are much ornamented with brandebourgs; the corsage en pointe and terminated by a cordelière, They are seen with jupons, or sometimes a black velvet spencer will be worn with a green satin slip and similar variations of color, but the more general becomes the fashion, the greater will be those variations which are already so universally allowed in the choice of fashionable costume generaliy.

Children's dresses are mostly made with the corsage straight or cut deep a la Vierge, sleeves a la jardiniere with a bracelet on the arm; the sleeve a bouillon and a pelerine attached to the corsage. The fichus, trimmed with tulle or a Valenciennes are generally in an embroidered batiste, sometimes in jaconot. The corsage is sometimes crossed and edged with narrow lace, a nœud on the shoulders and a row of the same down the dress are frequently seen.

A cherry-colored satin dress had a corsage half-high mounting, the front of the bust ornamented with pipings proceeding from each side of the upper part of the corsage in waved parallel lines to the ceinture which being encircled by a cordelière, was tied in front into a bow with long ends and chenilla fringes. The sleeves

in bouillon caught and united by silk cords. The flounce in large puffs similarly ornamented.

An emerald green velvet redingote was ornamented down the front with a satin facing and pipings disposed in a serpentine form; a biais of the same and similarly decorated, reaching high up the bottom of the dress, undulating at the upper edge; sleeves bouffanted and with satin ruffles edged with deep blond. The hair was ornamented with a poniard now become very fashionable, of rubies and diamonds, sustaining a long barbe extending below the middle of the skirt.

A gold lace is sometimes employed for these barbes, and with a black or green velvet dress has a magnificent effect.

A Pekin dress was made somewhat high in front of the bust, moderately so on the shoulders; the sleeves bouffanted and decorated with rosettes, the skirt ornamented with a deep flounce caught up rather on one side by a rosette larger but similar to that in the sleeve.

HATS & CAPS.-The petit-bords are in great favor, and in permitting the full effect of any arrangement of the coiffure to be seen to the greatest advantage, are particularly available to full dress.

An admired mode of wearing them, is very narrow in the front part, which scarcely passes the middle of the head, considerably higher and deeper on one side than the other, and having on one side a continuation to the ear where it curls up; here a small heron or paradise plume may be well placed, lace is in general successsfully used for the ornamenting of these as well as pearls and light bijouterie; velvet of emerald green, blue or cherry colors prevail for these elegant coiffures.

Turbans are as prevailing as any style of head-dress, and from the still greater varieties recently introduced may be worn with almost any style of dress or person.

The Thébaide in green colored velvet and cloth of gold enriched by two scarfs with gold threads intermixed and fringed, the one hanging very low, has a beautifully rich appearance.

The Sylphide in tulle with slight flowers or beauti ful tropical birds is admirably suited to many petites figures and small features.

As ornaments to hats and capotes in general, the small demi-veil is becoming, also the marabout, the bird of paradise, sprigs of millet and other grain.

For caps particularly the little lace caps become such great favorites, chenilla flowers are much worn.

Caps of tulle bouilloné are extremely pretty and are also becomingly ornamented with the above description of ornament.

MATERIALS.-The brilliant velvets épinglé green, white, &c. with the most elegant embroidery worked in bouquets and in the first styles of design and most splendid assortments of color are now in the height of vogue. One of these, the Elizabeth, has gained more favor than the rest of these gorgeous fabrics, and merits the distinction.

Satin, Velvet, Pekin, are the most prevalent and admitting of the favorite black lace with an excellent effect, are in much favor at present.

For children's dresses gros de Naples, mousseline de laine, muslin, levantine, velvet, and printed merino are the most approved.

VARIETIES. The new Lama shawl is a remarkably elegant introduction, and bids fair to become a great favorite with the élite of the modish circle. This is

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not the very delicate and beautiful fabric denominated Lama and of which a notice has been already given, but a few of the most vivid hues and glossy texture.

Embroidery may be said to have arrived at a degree of perfection considered till now, almost unapproachable, not only the most elegant ornamental designs are seen on the mouchoirs-fichus, collars, chemisettes &c. but even subjects of interest, comprehending figures of the most elaborate description.

The hair is for the most part worn low down the back of the head. The Bertha tresses are still in many circles predominant, but then there is much greater variety in the general disposition of the hair. A mode of modyfying and giving a very pretty effect to this style of hair is to encircle it with a garland or demi-couronne of precious stones, pearls or the like, a pin, a single flower or a pompon of ribbon having in the midst a precious stone, is an admired way of fixing the ends of these on the temples.

The birds employed for the coiffure are by no means confined to the bird of paradise and heron; they are greatly varied in their shades, and sometimes blue, sometimes red, grey, black, &c. predominate; they will also be frequently seen of one entire shade.

Bracelets are frequent, the serpent form with ruby eyes shows well on satin or velvet of the darker shades. some are made elastic without clasp, and these encircle the wrist in a spiral manner.

Fans are much used with rich mountings and elegant paintings with classical, oriental or other subjects according to fancy.

The little embroidered aprons of velvet or satin, cachmere neck scarfs also embroidered, form elegant accessaries to the toilette.

Velvet shawls, also mantelets, Bernous with and without capuchons, and in particular the plush shawls, striped or shaded, trimmed with chenille, lace, fur &c. preserve their vogue.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

PLATE 1.

FIGURE 1.-CONCERT DRESS.-Levantine dress, the corsage rather low and draped in the upper part, confined at the shoulder with a band of the same; the sleeve short and formed in a double bouffan; the skirt is ornamented with a double row of frilling divided by acorns with a little foliage. The hat of velvet with fringed border, and velvet noeuds with ends.

FIGURE 2.-EVENING DRESS.-Pekin dress, the corsage cut close and having an embroidered lace pelerine; the skirt very full and having a simple volan of the same; the sleeves short, in two bouffans, one considerably larger than the other. Turban Sylphide,

in tulle.

FIGURE 3. DINNER DRESS.-Half-high mounting edged with narrow blond scolloped, made tight to the shape, the sleeve elegantly ornamented in the slanted or spanish style with deep embroidered ruffle, and very richly embroidered flounce laid on full to the dress which is also very full. Turban Thebais with fringed

barbes.

FIGURE 4.-THEATRE DRESS.-Pekinet dress with Bernou cloak and hood, and uniting in front, the entire border edged with chenille fringe. Cachemere turban

with end hanging down below the neck and having a chenille fringe.

First half figure has a mantilla ornament of the same material as the dress; sleeves gathered in the the upper part and frilled round in the lower part.

The second half figure of a similar make, with tight sleeve and a single bouffan.

;

Hats and capotes in plain and spotted levantines the hat to the right having a large open brim, narrow crown, and a curtain.

Caps of muslin and bloud with barbes.
PLATE II.

FIGURE 1.-BALL COSTUME.-Striped foulard dress, corsage moderately low, and embellished with antique lace mantilla ornament; the sleeve short with ornaments to correspond; a series of flounces, narrow but full placed on the bottom of the dress, and not carried round, is terminated by ribbon bows hanging pendant, and the upper part terminated by a rosette. Coiffure ornamented with a gold pin and ribbon nœuds with ends.

FIGURE 2.-WALKING DRESS.-Figured gros de Naples cloak with large black velvet cape; the sleeves ample and trimmed round the cuffs with black velvet. The cloak made full and fastened round the waist by a silk cord and tassels. Capote of satin trimmed with feathers and flowers.

FIGURE 3.-WALKING DRESS.-Silk dress, the corsage turned up in front en amazone and bordered with a double ruche having a square cut collar hanging partly over the shoulders; sleeve long and graduating to the wrist where it is confined by a bracelet; the front from the ceinture downwards ornamented with a ruche having a piping over the centre. A cottage bonnet with a marabout feather, ribbon ornament and curtain. FIGURE 4.-EVENING DRESS.-Armure dress, the corsage en pointe and ornamented with cross pieces of the same in tolerably broad bands, and united in the midst by a nœud; a double flounce serpentines round the lower part of the skirt; the sleeves are likewise ornamented with nœuds. From the ornament of the hair hang a single barb of blond lace.

The first half figure is accurately adjusted in the corsage which as well as the sleeve is quite tight to the shape, the latter having a blond ruffle.

The second half figure has a black net lace mantilla fall and the sleeves embellished with the same.

Drawn, capote, quilted and wadded, rosettes and feathers.

The hat having outside ribbon nœuds and a small garland under the brim.

Turban in tulle and cachemerienne, with flowers and satin pipings.

PLATE III.

FIGURE 1.-EVENING DRESS.-Levantine dress, the corsage plain with silk open fringe and chenille edging round the border; the sleeve composed of double bouffans and ruffles reaching below the elbow; the skirt is ornamented with a deep flounce of a similar style to the above. A dress hat of velvet with flowers and a beading of pearls round the border.

FIGURE 2.-VISITING DRESS.-Amazine dress, the corsage having a plain edging composed of a narrow band of the same and pointed ceinture. The sleeve tight and with the ruffle extending rather below the elbow. Coiffure ornament with palm branches.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS,-Organdi dress, the

corsage cut low in the front, edged with scolloped lace; and embroidered mantilla ornament with blond edging terminates in a point at the ceinture; the short sleeve is finished by two sabots; the skirt is elegantly ornamented by a lace volan placed in a serpentine manner from the ceinture downwards, the half circular parts containing a bouquet. A tiara of precious stones encircles the head.

FIGURE 4.-WALKING DRESS.-Satin pelise, lappels faced with velvet; tied round the ceinture with a cordelière whice hangs in long ends and terminates in tassels; the sleeves are full to the wrist which has a velvet border, and the upper part is ornamented with an epaulette of the same. Bonnet of levantine has ornaments of the same edged with lace and a large bouquet.

The first half figure is composed of a velvet spencer made in a very similar manner to the last described dress, but the sleeve and the ceinture are ornamented with black lace instead of velvet.

The second half figure forms the back view to the fourth figure above described.

The hats are in gros de Naples and Tuscan ornamented with flowers and feathers.

The coiffure in the middle is ornamented with a tulle frilling adjusted in the hair so as to shew it to advantage.

PLATE IV

FIGURE 1.-WALKING DRESS.-Spanish wool redingote with small cape tied in front with a nœud; the sleeves full to the wrist, trimmed with swan's down both in the upper part and figuring tunic along the skirt, the flounce deep and laid on full. Gros de Tour hat with ribbon nœuds.

FIGURE 2--EVENING DRESS.-Satin dress, open in front of corsage; close sleeves with epaulette ornaments; large cordelière round the ceinture; the skirt embellished to a considerable height with narrow flounces of the same. Hair ornamented with barbes.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS.-Embroidered mouseline de laine dress, trimmed both as to the sleeves and the skirt with ermine, the latter figuring a tunic. A demi-bonnet of velvet with barbes complete the coiffure.

The first half figure has a lace mantilla ornament. and the sleeves ornamented in a corresponding manner as well as the satin hat.

The second half figure is trimmed with fur, both the collar, sleeves and bottom of the cloak.

The hats in satin, velvet and gros d'Afrique, trimmed with swans's down, marabout and paradise feathers.

Nowe Christe thee save, thou little foot-page,
Now Christe thee save and see!
Oh telle me how does thy ladye gaye,
And what may thy tidings bee?

My lady shee is all woe-begone
And the teares they falle from her eyne;
And aye shee laments the deadly feude
Betweene her house and thine.

And here shee sends thee a silken scarfe Bedewde with many a teare,

And biddes thee sometimes thinke on her, Who loved thee so deare.

And here she sends thee a ring of golde,
The last boone thou mayst have,
And bids the weare it for her sake,
Whan shee is layde in grave.

For ah! her gentle heart is broke,

And in grave soone must shee bee, Sith her father hath chose her a new new love, And forbidde her to thinke of thee,

Her father hath brought her a carlish knight,
Sir John of the north contraye,
And within three days she must wedde,
Or he vowes he will her slaye,

Now hye thee backe, thou little foot-page,
And greete thy ladye from mee,
And telle her that I her own true love
Will dye, or set her free.

Now hye the backe, thou little foot-page,
And let thy fair ladye know

This night will I bee at her bowre-windowe,
Betide me weale or woe.

The boy he tripped, the boy he ranne,
He neither stint ne stayd,
Until he came to fair Emmelines bowre,
Whan kneeling downe he sayd,

O ladye, I've been with thy own true love,
And he greetes thee well by mee;
This night will he bee at thy bowre-windowe,
And dye or sette thee free.

Now daye was gone, and night was come, And all were fast asleepe,

All save the ladye Emmeline,

Who sate in her bowre to weepe;

And soon shee heard her true love's voice
Low whispering at the walle,
Awake, awake, my dear ladyè.
'Tis I thy true love call.

Awake, awake, my lady deare,

THE CHILD OF ELLE

ON yonder hill a castle standes, With walles and towres bedight. And yonder lives the Child of Elle, A young and comely knighte.

The Child of Elle to his garden wente.
And stood at his garden pale,

When, lo! he beheld fair Emmeline's page
Come trippinge downe the dale.

The Childe of Elle he hyed him thence. Y-wis he stoode not still,

And soone he mette fair Emmelines page Come climbing up the hille.

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Come mount this fair palfràye: This ladder of ropes will lette thee downe, Ile carrye thee hence away.

Nowe nay, nowe naye, thou gentle knight,
Now nay, this may not bee;
For aye should I tint my maiden fame,
If alone I should wend with thee.

O ladye, thou with a knight so true
Mayst safelye wend alone,
To my ladye mother I will thee bringe,
Where marriage shall make us one.

My father he is a baron bolde,

Of lynage proud and hye; And what would he saye if his daughter Awaye witha knight should fly?

Fashions for January 187

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