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open to doubt, but there is the strongest proof that physical qualities are in most cases communicated; and therefore, in the words of Dr. Caldwell, as "respects persons seriously deformed, or in any way constitutionally enfeebled,—the rickety, and club-footed, for instance, and those with distorted spines, or who are pre-disposed to insanity, scrofula, pulmonary consumption, gout or epilepsy-all persons of this description should conscientiously abstain from matrimony. In a special manner, where both the male and female labour under a hereditary taint, they should make it a part of their duty to God and their posterity never to be thus united. Marriage in such individuals cannot be defended on moral grounds-much less on that of public usefulness. It is selfish to an extent but little short of crime. Its abandonment or prevention would tend, in a high degree, to the improvement of mankind."-Curtis on the Preservation of Health.

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

DRESSES.-While we are in but an indifferent position to indicate the prevalence of any particularly distinguished toilette, of very recent introduction, we may perhaps appropriately urge the necessity of a strict regard to all the little accessories, which constitute so great a charm, whether the application of well chosen ornaments, or a tasteful choice of all, that, though separable from the costume, is yet not independent of it-such for instance, as the vogue of the bijouterie, the perfection of the gloves, the richness of the handkerchief, elegance of the little purse, suspended from the ceinture, all these may be made to disfigure, or add grace to the whole toilette, and it especially becomes the lady of ton, to be scrupulously regardful of these small but important matters.

A lace dress, with designs in relief, made to represent an appliqué en cœur, in front of the corsage, and a tablier in front of the skirt, assorted beautifully with a lisse crape jupon, underneath. The volan of the same, was placed high up the dress, and a torsade heading, in lilac ribbons, relieved the appearance, and gave a rich variety to it, and being caught up by ribbon noeuds at various intervals, exposed the underneath dress most advantageously. It should also have been stated, that the corsage was embellished with a blonde fall, which passing from the upper part, terminated at the ceinture, in a point. The sleeves having at the upper part two bouffans, were terminated by a double manchette.

A point lace dress over a rose coloured slip, had a very elegant appearance; a tablier, composed of curled ribbon, round which serpentined barbes of point lace, gave an elegant finish to this beautiful costume.

A white organdi dress had the corsage ornamented with a bouillon, through which a ribbon passed, the sleeves short, also in bouillons, of a corresponding make, the tablier was composed in like manner. A crossed barred ribbon was tied round the waist, and hung down in long ends in front.

A white muslin dress, with patterns satiné of the same color, had the corsage fitting closely at the back and sides, and in oblique folds thence to the middle of the front, where a flat lace ornament was laid, edged with blond; which extended round the upper part of the dress, as a fall. Intermixed with the flounces of similar material to the dress, was a bordering of lace, which was deposited in a serpentine line. The toilette was completed by a paille de rix bonnet, which was adorned with a small sprig.

HATS, CAPS, &c.-The very prevailing style of wearing the front and crown of the bonnet in a line, permits a chaste and light style of ornamenting, in both the exterior and interior of the brim, the latter being in general extended rather low down the face, though not far in front.

The Mancini ornament is placed at the bottom of the brim, and descends to the ribbon which forms the baride under the chin.

A bonnet composed of rice straw, and taffety ribbon alternating, had three feathers assorting to the color of the bonnet, placed on the right side, and on the left a ribbon nœud to match, in addition to which a ribbon torsade embellished the underneath part of the brim.

A cap of a similar style, but with white crape instead of the former material, mixed with the straw, had ribbon cocques as ornaments, mingled with white satin ribbon.

Among the most elegant of the head dresses of recent introduction, may be cited

The Armenian, very light in its make and texture, being composed of lace, and ornamented with small purple flowers.

The Theban, in silver blond, in bold wide folds, having an ornament in bijouterie, in the centre of the front, and finished by long barbes.

The Persan, this is a truly elegant coiffure of gauze. with silver point, over which is thrown a transparent filmy veil, with border of lace, arabesque pattern, and set off further by a small feather, disposed so as to fall back behind.

The Italian straw hats, especially those worn in the country, are appropriately ornamented with lisse crape as lining, as additions to the crown, &c.

Bunches of flowers are placed very prevalently at the back part of the bonnet.

MATERIALS AND COLORS.-China crapes have been added in considerable variety to the catalogue of fashionable materials, of which we have lately given copious lists.

The principal and distinguishing fabrics which have held sway for the greater part of the season, with the exception of the admirable modifications which have been lavishly introduced, are now at present in equal repute, and will preserve their reputation till the French and our new designs and manufactures furnish us with their new creations.

The Crino-Zephir, as an excellently adapted material for the carriage, the rout, the concert, or other purpose, where there is probability of crushing or rubbing the dress, is a great favorite, and its lightness, delicacy, and semi-transparency, are no less recommendations.

White dresses still abundantly prevail, not only in batistes, muslins, &c., but in many of the richer and more substantial fabrics.

VARIETIES. Black tulle shawls, with point d'esprit border, and small patterns, have frequently a lining of silk lilac, green or straw coloured.

The tulle mantelets, lined with a similar fabric, and having a large ribbon forming a border, are favorites for negligé costume.

Shawls, such is the extensive variety of material, design, and make, of which they are the medium, are seen as appropriately added to the present style of toilettes, as at any other season. As particular examples of conformity to summer use, may be cited those remarkably fine cachmere shawls, with deep fringe, and embroidered corners borders, which are now so successfully manufactured. Muslin, tulle, organdi, &c. are still made up, and in great vogue.

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DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

PLATE I.

FIGURE 1.-EVENING DRESS.-Organdi dress. The corsage half high mounting, edged with narrow blond; the sleeves made full to the wrist. The skirt is ample, and ornamented with a couple of flowers, over which an embroidered garland extends. A lace cannezau with embroidered fringe, is tied across the front. Hair worn plain in front, falling in ringlets behind.

FIGURE 2.-WALKING DRESS.-Gros de Tour dress; the corsage made high in the neck, but cut down in front and ornamented with three nœuds, the lower one terminating in flowing ends hanging to the flowers, which are placed high up the skirt. The sleeve has a triple row of bouffans laid in the upper part and is full thence to the wrist; the hat of crape with trimmings of the same.

FIGURE 3.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Muslin dress.-Made high in the neck and otherwise plain, both as to the upper part and the neck; Tuscan straw hat with ribbon

ornaments.

FIGURE 4.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Mousseline de laine dress; the upper part of the corsage made high and terminated by a plain piping and open in front, the skirt without ornament, with the exception of a lace trimming in a portion of the front where a tablier is indicated.

The first half figure has a volan in the upper part of the corsage of the same material, the sleeve in two bouffans at top and large in the middle, tapering downwards.

The second half figure is made in a similar manner, but double in the arrangement of the ornaments, both at the upper part of the corsage and sleeves.

The bonnets are, for the most part, of Gros de Naples and trimmed fabrics, similar to their own, or of shaded or other ribbons.

The caps are ornamented with bouquets and ribbons.
PLATE II.

FIGURE 1.-BALL DRESS.-Lace dress elegantly worked in the corsage, in the front of the sleeves of the dress, and the devans; the outside skirt, fastened in the Tunic style, affords excellent scope for the addition of au elegant style in embroidery. The upper part of the sleeves is made tight to the arm, full downwards, and graduating to the wrist; coiffure without ornament.

FIGURE 2.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Challi dress; a fall of the same material as the dress ornaments the upper part of the corsage, the skirt is laid on rather full, the sleeves full to the wrist, hat of crape with lace ornaments.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS.-Batiste dress; the front of the corsage framed in the lappel form, and gathered to the ceinture, the upper part of the sleeve laid in folds, at intervals, with a band confining the upper part, the rest of the sleeve full to the wrist. The redingote style generally prevails in this dress, and three rows of lace ornament it, as volans.-Lace capote.

FIGURE 4.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Foulard redingote; the front of the corsage ornamented with several rows of trimmings in lace, made with rosettes in the midst assists the embellishments of this toilette, and a volan of blond scolloped and placed on full, complete it.

The hat of crape is ornamented with lace.

The bonnets and hats of Gros de tour, organdi and silk, are but lightly ornamented with flowers, and a few feathers suffice alone, with a few additions made of the same materlal to complete their durations,

PLATE III.

de laine

FIGURE 1.-WALKING DRESS.-Mousseline dress; open, in front is a spencer of worked lace, and ornamented in front with a rosette; the skirt is wide; the flounce wide and ample, and parted by a narrow ribbon band. Hat in crape with curled feathers.

FIGURE 2.-MORNING RECEPTION DRESS.-Muslin dress; the corsage in slanting folds and crossing in front; an embroidered apron gives effect to the dress, and a wide flounce of the same completes the toilette.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS.-Foulard dress; the corsage has a lace fall, it is made low and pointed at the ceinture, and has two rows of flounces in the form of bouffans, placed very close to the hair; cap of muslin with small bouquet.

FIGURE 4.-WALKING DRESS.-Tulle dress; the upper part of the corsage frilled with lace, rounded at the ceinture, a zig-zag ornament to the lower part of the skirt, permits the insertion at the angles of small puffings.

The bonnet is of Gros de Naples, with raised designs and ribbon ornaments.

The first half figure is the back representation of the underneath dress.

The second half figure is in worked muslin, and of very similar make to the under one; the Capote of gros de tour.

The bonnets are in Tuscan straw, and will be particularly worthy of remark for the novelty of shape, small feathers, ribbon bows and small bouquets are the principal ornaments.

PLATE IV.

FIGURE 1.-EVENING DRESS.-Brussels lace dress; half high mounting corsage made full in front, the lower part rounded, the sleeve short in double sabots and decorated with ribbon bows; a deep flounce completes the lower part of the dress, and another similarly constructed, but narrower, is laid immediately above, one end ascending and terminating in a ribbon bow, as well as the lower part.

The head-dress is ornamented with a bouquet intermixed with the hair.

FIGURE 2.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Watered Gros de Naples; the corsage made high over the shoulders, and together with the sleeves and the bottom of the dress ornamented with bias tucks, headed with narrow piping; those in the lower part of the dress will be observed to ascend slightly, and terminate in nœuds.

Crinoline bonnet with roses.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS.-Tulle dress; the sleeves reaching to the elbow ornamented with lace bouffans and sabots, a lace stomacher ornaments the front of the corsage and the nœuds of the tunic. The hair is ornamented with a garland of roses.

Hats and bonnets in crape, crinoline and organdi, with flowers and lace ornaments as well as others of similar ma terials to the bonnet.

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