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with end hanging down below the neck and having a chenille fringe.
First half figure has a mantilla ornament of the same material as the dress; sleeves gathered in the the upper part and frilled round in the lower part.
The seconil half figure of a similar make, with tight sleeve and a single bouffan.
Hats and capotes in plain and spotted levantines ; the hat to the right having a large open brim, narrow crown, and a curtain. Caps of muslin and bloud with barbes.
PLATE II. FIGURE 1.–Ball Costume.-Striped foulard dress, corsage moderately low, and embellished with antique lace mantilla ornament; the sleeve short with ornaments to correspond ; a series of flounces, narrow but full placed on the bottom of the dress, and not carried round, is terminated by ribbon bows hanging pendant, and the upper part terminated by a rosette. Coiffure ornamented with a gold pin and ribbon næuds with ends.
Figure 2.— WALKING Dress.-Figured gros de Naples cloak with large black velvet cape; the sleeves ample and trimmed round the cuffs with black velvet. The cloak made full and fastened round the waist by a silk cord and tassels. Capote of satin trimmed with feathers and flowers.
FIGURE 3.-Walking Dress.-Silk dress, the cor. sage turned up in front en amazone and bordered with a double ruche having a square cut collar hanging partly over the shoulders ; sleeve long and graduating to the wrist where it is confined by a bracelet ; the front from the ceinture downwards ornamented with a ruche having a piping over the centre. A cottage bonnet with a marabout feather, ribbon ornament and curtain.
FIGURE 4.--Evening Dress.-Armure dress, the corsage en pointe and ornamented with cross pieces of the same in tolerably broad bands, and united in the midst by a næud ; a double flounce serpentines round the lower part of the skirt; the sleeves are likewise ornamented with neuds. From the ornament of the hair hang a single barb of blond lace.
The first half figure is accurately adjusted in the corsage which as well as the sleeve is quite tight to the shape, the latter having a blond ruffle.
The second half figure has a black net lace mantilla fall and the sleeyes embellished with the same.
Drawn, capote, quilted and wadded, rosettes and feathers.
The hat having outside ribbon neuds and a small garland under the brim.
Turban in tulle and cachemerienne, with flowers and satin pipings.
PLATE III. Figure 1.-Evening DRESS.-Levantine dress, the corsage plain with silk open fringe and chenille edging round the border ; the sleeve composed of double bouf. fans and ruffles reaching below the elbow; the skirt is ornamented with a deep flounce of a similar style to the above. A dress hat of velvet with flowers and a beading of pearls round the border,
FIGURE 2.- Visiting Dress.-Amazine dress, the corsage having a plain edging composed of a narrow band of the same and pointed ceinture. The sleeve tight and with the ruffle extending rather below the elbow. Coiffure ornament with palm branches.
FIGURE 3.-Evening DRESS,—Organdi dress, the
not the very delicate and beautiful fabric denominated Lama and of which a notice has been already given, but a few of the most vivid hues and glossy texture.
Embroidery may be said to have arrived at a degree of perfection considered till now, almost unapproachable, not only the most elegant ornamental designs are seen on the mouchoirs.fichus, collars, chemisettes &c. but even subjects of interest, comprehending figures of the most elaborate description.
The hair is for the most part worn low down the back of the head. The Bertha tresses are still in many circles predominant, but then there is much greater variety in the general disposition of the hair. A mode of modyfying and giving a very pretty effect to this style of hair is to encircle it with a garland or demi-couronne of precious stones, pearls or the like, a pin, a single flower or a pompon of ribbon having in the midst a precious stone, is an admired way of fixing the ends of these on the temples.
The birds employed for the coiffure are by no means confined to the bird of paradise and heron; they are greatly varied in their shades, and sometimes blue, sometimes red, grey, black, &c. predominate ; they will also be frequently seen of one entire shade.
Bracelets are frequent, the serpent form with ruby eyes shows well on satin or velvet of the darker shades. some are made elastic without clasp, and these encircle the wrist in a spiral manner.
Fans are much used with rich mountings and elegant paintings with classical, oriental or other subjects according to fancy.
The litttle embroidered aprons of velvet or satin, cachmere neck scarfs also embroidered, form elegant accessaries to the toilette.
Velvet shawls, also mantelets, Bernous with and without capuchons, and in particular the plush shawls, striped or shaded, trimmed with chenille, lace, fur &c. preserve their vogue.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
PLATE 1. Figure 1.-Concert Dress.-Levantine dress, the corsage rather low and draped in the upper part, confined at the shoulder with a band of the same; the sleeve short and formed in a double bouffau; the skirt is ornamented with a double row of frilling divided by acorns with a little foliage. The hat of velvet with fringed border, and velvet næuds with ends.
FIGURE 2.--Evening Dress.- Pekin dress, the corsage cut close and having an embroidered lace pelerine; the skirt very full and having a simple volan of the same ; the sleeves short, in two bouffans, one considerably larger than the other.
Turban Sylphide, in iulle.
FIGURE 3.-DINNER Dress.-Half-high mounting edged with narrow blond scolloped, made tight to the shape, the sleeve elegantly ornamented in the slanted or spanish style with deep embroidered ruffle, and very richly embroidered iounce laid on full to the dress which is also very full. Turban Thebuis with fringed barbes.
FIGURE 4.-THEATRE Dress.- Pekinet dress with Bernou cloak and hood, and uniting in front, the entire border edged with chenille fringe. Cachemere turban
Nowe Christe thee save, thou little foot-page,
Now Christe thee save and see !
And what may thy tidings bee?
My lady shee is all woe-begone
And the teares they falle from her eyne ; And aye shee laments the deadly feude
Betweene her house and thine.
And here shee sends thee a silken scarfe
Bedewde with many a teare, And biddes thee sometimes thinke op her,
Who loved thee so deare.
And here she sends thee a ring of golde,
The last boone thou mayst have, And bids the weare it for her sake, Whan shee is layde in grave.
For ah ! her gentle heart is broke,
And in grave soone must shee bee, Sith her father hath chose her a new new love,
And forbidde ber to thinke of thee,
Her father hath brought her a carlish knight,
Sir John of the north coutraye,
Or he vowes he will her slaye,
corsage cut low in the front, edged with scolloped lace; / and embroidered mantilla ornament with blond edging terminates in a point at the ceinture; the short sleeve is finished by two sabots; the skirt is clegantly ornamented by a lace volan placed in a serpentine manner from the ceinture downwards, the half circular parts containing a bouquet. A tiara of precious stones encircles the head.
FIGURE 4.-WALKING Dress.-Satin pelise, lappels faced with velvet; tied round the ceinture with a cordelière whice hangs in long ends and terminates in tassels ; the sleeves are full to the wrist which has a velvet border, and the upper part is ornamented with an epaulette of the same. Bonnet of levantine has ornaments of the same edged with lace and a large bouquet.
The first half figure is composed of a velvet spencer made in a very similar manner to the last described dress, but the sleeve and the ceinture are ornamented with black lace instead of velvet.
The second half figure forms the back view to the fourth figure above described.
The bats are in gros de Naples and Tuscan ornamented with flowers and feathers.
The coiffure in the middle is ornamented with a tulle frilling adjusted in the hair so as to shew it to advantage.
PLATE IV FIGURE 1.-WALKING Dress.--Spanish wool redingote with small cape tied in front with a neud; the sleeves full to the wrist, trimmed with swan's down both in the upper part and figuring tunic along the skirt, the flounce deep and laid on full. Gros de Tour hat with ribbon neuds.
Figure 2.-Evening Dress.-Satin dress, open in front of corsage; close sleeves with epaulette ornaments ; large cordelière round the ceinture; the skirt embellished to a considerable height with narrow flounces of the same. Hair ornamented with barbes.
FIGURE 3.-EVENING Dress.-Embroidered mou. seline de laine dress, trimmed both as to the sleeves and the skirt with ermine, the latter figuring a tunic. A demi-bonnet of velvet with barbes complete the coiffure,
The first half figure was a lace mantilla ornament. and the sleeves ornamented in a corresponding manner as well as the satin hat.
The second half figure is trimmed with fur, both the collar, sleeves and bottom of the cloak.
The hats in satin, velvet and gros d'Afrique, trimmed with swans's down, marabout and paradise feathers.
Now hye thee backe, thou little foot-page,
And greete thy ladye froin mee,
Will dye, or set her free.
Now hye the backe, thou little foot-page,
And let thy fair ladye know This night will I bee at her bowre-windowe,
Betide me weale or woe.
The boy he tripped, the boy he ranne,
He neither stint ne stayd, Until he came to fair Emmelines bowre,
Whan kneeling downe he sayd,
O ladye, I've been with thy own true love,
And he greetes thee well by mee ; This night will he bee at thy bowre-windowe,
And dye or sette thee free.
Now daye was gone, and night was come,
And all were fast asleepe, All save the ladye Emmeline,
Who sate in her bowre to weepe;
Avd soon shee heard her true love's voice
Low whispering at the walle, Awake, awake, my dear ladyè.
Tis I thy true love call.
Awake, awake, my lady deare,
Come mount this fair palfråye :' This ladder of ropes will lette thee downe,
lle carrye thee hence away.
THE CHILD OF ELLE
On yonder hill a castle standes,
With walles and towres bedight. And yonder lives the Child of Elle,
A young and comely knighte.
Nowe nay, nowe naye, thou gentle knight,
Now nay, this may not bee;
If alone I should wend with thee.