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ON IMPROVEMENTS IN LONDON.
eyes to the whole truth; they might have opened the eyes of the blind. Her surprise was extreme. “Can it really be?” thought she—"Oh no, I am deceiving myself—it is only the additional kindness of manner which an absence after such a parting would naturally give. But if it should be -” And she proceeded to sift and analize her feelings as regarded him. The result of that self-examination we have already seen in her frank avowal to Sir Walter.
The effect of this frankness upon him it is not for me to paint. We will leave them to that most delicious of lovers' conversations—the "comparing notes,” of the dates and progress of their affection.
It was just a month after Elizabeth's wedding that Sir Walter brought his bride home to Arlescot. Elizabeth herself was there to welcome her, and never did welcome spring more strongly from the heart. The idea of the union of her brother with her friend had never crossed her mind-but, when he wrote to inform her of his approaching marriage, she was in amazement that she had not always desired and striven to unite them.
“Here is her bower, decked for Ariel"_said Sir Walter, as he led his bride into this loved chamber, which was now changed from a bedroom to a boudoir. She started: in addition to her favorite flowers growing in their accustomed beds, and her drawings of Arlescot, which were mounted in splendid frames, there was over the chimney-piece a full length portrait of herself, as Ariel, mounting into the air, after her freedom has been given to her by Prospero.*
"How beautiful!” she exclaimed, in the first moment of her surprise—but then recollecting the interpretation her words might bear, she added quickly, and with blushes, “I mean the painting.”
"It is all beautiful !” said Sir Walter. "How often have I seen you look exactly thus as you have sung ‘Merily, merily,' and I have almost thought you would rise into the air."
"I will change the word to 'Happily,' now,” said Lucy, in a low tone, “and you need not fear that I should wish to leave the blossoms of this bower.—But hark! I hear music."
“Yes!” said Sir Arthur Leonard, who looked from the window_"there are the maidens of the village come to strew flowers for you to walk on as you go to the chapeland there is old Crompton, with his followers at their head. You hear what tune it is he is playing to herald you to your bridal.”
“Certainly I do," answered Lucy, in a low tone, “"Good Sir Walter!'"
The population of London is so great, that the following remarks, which have especial reference to the health of its inhabitants, will hardly be deemed a departure from that generality which pervades this work ; the more so as most of them are equally applicable to other large towns.
A dramatic writer has called London the fons delectabilis, but I should like to see it deserve the appellation of fons salutaris also ; and it is gratifying to know that every change which adds to its external attractions, contributes to its healthiness at the same time. It has been said, “ See Paris, and die," as if the sight of that city were the supremest enjoyment in which man could participate ; but I would much rather have said, “ See London, and live,'' and live happily and joyously too. Napoleon called us a nation of shopkeepers, meaning to reproach us with a sordid devotion to mere commerce, and with incapacity for comprehending the loftier pleasures derivable from the triumphs of art: but I doubt not yet to see the time when this reproach shall be utterly inapplicable to England ; already we have made great progress in a better state of things, and no limit can be set to our progression.
Many improvements have within the last few years been effected in the metropolis; all of which have added to its salubrity, and rendered it a more agreeable place of residence. As a proof of this, I have been informed that many tradesmen who used to reside at a short distance from town, have come to live in London at their places of business, whereby much time and expense is saved. Among the improvements may be mentioned the widening of streets, the opening of parks and other healthy places of public resort, and the practice of building houses round large open spaces. There is yet much to be done, however, before it can be said that London is as healthy as man can make it; and I am now about to direct the attention of my readers to some of the more important, yet easily to be accomplished, improvements of which it is susceptible.
The subject that first demands our attention is the mode in which London is supplied with water.
The Thames is the principal source of the supply; and its water, if drawn from a proper spot, would be as good as could be desired ; but, strangely enough, the companies which monopolise the sale of this important element, take it from a part of the river which receives all the impurities of the mighty city, and where it is asserted that fish cannot exist. This is the first evil to be removed. The wants of the metropolis could not be supplied without resorting to the Thames ; but there is no necessity for using its corrupted waters. Why should not we go a few miles above London, and draw the needful supplies from the river before it reaches the city ?
A project recently set on foot would, if executed, do much to obviate the inconveniences of the present system; I allude to the plan for forming a vast receptacle for the contents of the common sewers, &c. &c. along the whole banks of the river; this would doubtless improve the quality of the water: the other part of the project, viz. the construction of open walks and terraces by the river-side, would also be a great change for the better, improving the appearance and increasing the healthiness of the city.
But supposing the water to be derived from an entirely unexceptionable source, much would still remain to be done. The mode of its distribution to, and of its reception in,
• This picture is not in the gallery at Arlescot_but at Wil. mington—which has descended to the heirs of the second son of the marriage here spoken of, who succeeded to his mother's property, and took the name of Adair. Sir Edward is always trying to persuade his cousin to let him bave the picture, but he is inexorable. I think they are both quite right.-A. St. J.
dwelling-houses, has an important effect upon its quality. | imagined that there was no sewer either in Cheapside or It is at present conveyed by leaden pipes either into Aldersgate Street, and yet such till lately was the fact : leaden cisterns or wooden casks. Water contains carbonic sewers were recently, for the first time, constructed in both acid gas; this acting upon lead forms carbonate of lead, a these leading thoroughfares. In the Old Kent Road, in white powder, which being conveyed in small quantities Bethnal Green, and in some parts of Westminsser, these inwith the water to the stomach, acts as a slow poison, affect dispensable requisites of a healthy residence are almost ening the digestive organs, producing dyspepsia, and finally tirely wanting. The importance of draining and sewerage terminating in nervous apoplexy or paralysis.
is strikingly shewn in the report of Dr. Southwood Smith If the water be received into casks, the result is not respecting the causes of febrile affections, (which have for much better. Unless the casks are charred, the water de a considerable period been prevalent in Bethnal Green and composes the surface of the wood; inflammable air is Whitechapel,) appended to the last report of the poor-law generated ; and this poison is held by the water in solution commissioners :-“ It appears," says this report, “ that the for a time, until part of it escapes in the form of gas, and streets, courts, alleys, and houses in which fever first breaks the rest falls to the bottom as dirt.
out and in which it becomes most prevalent and fatal, are inIt is an established fact, that the best material for form variably those in the immediate neighbourhood of uncovered ing vessels to contain water, is iron. Iron tanks have for sewers, stagnant ditches and ponds, gutters always full of several years been used in ships with the greatest advan putrifying matter, nightman's yards, and privies the soil of tage: and there is no reason why iron cisterns should which lies openly exposed and is seldom or never removed." not be substituted on land for lead cisterns and wooden We are told that " a large portion of Bethnal Green is a casks.
swamp, hardly any part of which is drained ;” and that Of whatever materials the receptacles for water may be “there is evidence derived from the history of these very formed, they should be often emptied and carefully localities, that the formation of a common-sewer, the fillingcleansed. The purest water must frequently contain clay up of a ditch, the removal of stagnant water, and the drainand other earths; these are deposited, and in time, if age of houses, have rendered a district healthy, from which, suffered to remain, become animalised; hence, be the before such measures were adopted, fever was never absent." water supplied ever so pure, it must speedily be contami Another very useful improvement, and one easily effected, nated. For the same reason, it would be better that a fresh would be the addition of stench-traps to all the gratings in supply should be furnished every day, even though each the streets leading into the sewers, such as are used in most supply were smaller than at present, rather than (as is ge private houses. nerally the case now) only twice or thrice a-week.
Many new facilities have of late years been given to There is another mode by which an abundant supply of persons residing in town, of enjoying exercise in the fresh the purest water could be obtained, at least for drinking in air. Through the exertions of a few spirited individuals, any form, as for making tea, coffee, &c. which at the same the parks have been rendered far more accessible to the time would greatly add to the beauty of the metropolis. I public than they previously were; above all, that most rural mean the erection of ornamental fountains, which, giving of suburban resorts, the Regent's Park, has been partly out constant streams of spring-water, would impart an ap opened, and every day receives many visitors in search of pearance of coolness which is very refreshing in the sultry health. It is to be hoped that the remaining unoccupied summer months, and would materially assist in keeping part of this fine healthy park will shortly be thrown open clear the sewers, into which the superfluous water would to the public without reserve, so that the foot passenger fall. Every person who has visited the Continent must may proceed from the right of the cottage in the inner have admired the pleasing effect produced by the fountains circle completely across the park towards Macclesfield Gate with which most cities there abound ; and it is truly sur —this walk would be truly delightful. prising that so obvious a source of beauty and ornament Great satisfaction has been given to the lovers of outhas been so long neglected in this country. Let us hope door exercise by the occasional playing in Kensington that in this respect we shall soon imitate our neighbours ; Gardens of the band of the Horse-guards, stationed at who, on this point at least, have certainly set us an example Knightsbridge barracks; and it is to be regretted that this well worthy of imitation.
amusement is so scantily furnished to the inhabitants of the It has been supposed that sufficient spring-water does not metropolis. In most country towns the regimental bands exist in the metropolis to supply the domestic wants of its play frequently; and surely London ought not to be worse inhabitants ; but there appears to be no ground for this off in this respect than the country. It would add much conjecture. At the Lambeth Baths, noticed in a previous to the charms of the Regent's Park, and induce many part of this book, 15,000 gallons of spring-water are thrown more persons to take exercise in it than at present, were up every hour : this fact alone might suffice to shew the in the band of the regiment stationed at the park barracks correctness of the notion. I believe the water drawn from directed to play in it at stated times during fine weather. the wells in the city is of the very best kind: that supplied The band of the regiment stationed at the Wellington barby the old Aldgate pump is famed for its excellence. racks might, in like manner, be directed to play in the
The sewerage in many parts of London is very imperfect : enclosure in St. James's Park. If each of these three exthe public health is seriously injured by this imperfection, cellent bands were to play twice a week, from three till five which, however, has of late been somewhat remedied; and in the afternoon, a most agreeable recreation would be will, it is to be hoped, be wholly removed when the new act furnished to the inhabitants of the metropolis. of parliament on this subject comes into operation. It will Although much has been done, there is still room for enable the commissioners to compel the owners of all houses improvement. On the continent, greater attention is paid to drain the sewers as often as the public health or advan- to procuring places of exercise and amusement for the inhabtage may require them so to do. Few persons would have itants of towns than in this country. There are, however,
indications that give us reason for hoping that our inferior- | entitled to do so appearing to neglect them altogether, ity in this respect will not be suffered long to continue. There need be no fear, I think, that this indulgence, if
A short time since, an honourable member in the House granted, would be abused, or lead to the damage of the of Commons moved, that in all enclosure-bills provision be gardens. made for leaving open space sufficient for the purposes of There has been much talk lately, both in and out of parthe exercise and recreation of the neighbouring population. liament, about providing places for the recreation of the Sir R. Peel, in supporting the motion, observed that it was people. Would government object to pay a small sum for most desirable that the authorities of every large manufac the purpose of keeping in order all the gardens that might turing town, indeed of any town having a numerous popu be thus opened, and for making seats and other accommolation should have power to set apart an open space for pub dations for the public? I should also like to see the 200lic recreation and exercise ; and he believed that there logical Gardens, and all the Exhibitions, opened to the could not be a more innocent or legitimate source of amuse public gratuitously two or three times a-year, on the anniment-a source of amusement which would be more con versaries of great national events. ducive to health, or tend more to wean the humbler classes The salubrity of the metropolis would be increased if the from those habits of dissipation which they sometimes con practice of interring the dead within its boundaries were tracted from the want of such places. The honourable abandoned. For this reason I rejoice to observe that the baronet concluded by saying, that every one was pleased number of cemeteries round London is rapidly augmenting, with the improvements that had been effected in the parks and in a few years they will, I doubt not, entirely supersede of London ; and the same system should be extended to the vaults and churchyards,—a result highly desirable on many large manufacturing towns. He should have no objection accounts. Of the moral benefits arising from the use of to a grant of public money, to the amount of £5,000 or cemeteries, and the admission of the public into them, £10,000 for that purpose.
much might be said,--the advantage in regard to health In the second edition of this work I suggested the form must be obvious to all. The North London Cemetery at ation of a Public Botanical Garden, with hot-houses, &c. Highgate, is perhaps, the most beautifully laid out of any like that at Brussels, for exotic plants, such as spice trees,
yet formed, although they are all admirable places. the bread fruit trees, &c, and pointed out as a very suitable In enumerating the improvements that have taken place spot for this purpose the ground in the centre of the Regent's in the metropolis, as regards the health of the inhabitants, Park, then occupied by Mr. Jenkins, under government, we must not omit the railroads. Some of my readers may one of the most delightful in the park ; from the mount in be disposed to ask, in astonishment, what railroads have to which there are views hardly to be surpassed for beauty; do with health ? I answer, that leaving out of view the indeed, one of them might be supposed to be a hundred obvious connexion between them in the facilities which miles from town.
railroads afford for enjoying the fresh air of the country, Since the publication of that edition an institution deno they have in themselves a direct influence upon health of a minated “The Royal Botanic Soeiety of London " has most beneficial nature. Dr. James Johnson, in a late numbeen formed ; and already ranks among its members and ber of Medico-Chirurgical Review, has the following supporters many noblemen and scientific gentlemen. The remarks on the subject:object of this society is the establishment, within the con “Railroad-travelling possesses many peculiarities, as fines of London, of extensive botanic gardens, library, well as advantages, over the common modes of conveyance. museum, studio, hot houses, conservatories, &c. This plan The velocity with which the train moves through the air is comprises an Italian garden with raised terraces, fountains, very refreshing, even in the hottest weather, where the and parterres, ornamented by balustrading, vases, figures, run is for some miles. The vibratory, or rather oscillatory and works of art; with a casino at one end, and a conserva motion communicated to the human frame is very different tory at the other. The ground selected for the gardens is from the swinging and jolting motions of the stage-coach, the spot pointed out as being well adapted for them, which and is productive of more salutary effects. It equalises the contains eighteen acres. The plan of the society appears circulation, promotes digestion, tranquillises the nerves to be well calculated to promote the study of botany in this (after the open country is gained ), and often causes sound country; but I regret to notice that nothing is said in the sleep during the succeeding night; the exercise of this kind prospectus concerning the admission of the public to the of travelling being unaccompanied by that lassitude, achgardens. This I conceive is an indispensible requisite. ing, and fatigue, which, in weakly constitutions, pre
The gardens of the numerous squares in the metropolis vents the nightly repose. The railroad bids fair to be a are not nearly so useful as they might be, owing to the ex powerful remedial agent in many ailments to which the clusive spirit in which they are managed. Why should metropolitan and civic inhabitants are subject. they not be opened at stated times to the public generally, “ To those who are curious, and not very timid, the open in the same way as the Temple and Lincoln's Inn Gardens ? carriages are far preferable to the closed ones, especially in Such a measure would be of great benefit. Gardens like fine weather. In bad weather, and particularly at first, those of Lincoln's Inn Fields or Russell Square, might be invalids may travel with more advantage under cover. I come pleasant places of resort to thousands of young people have no doubt that to thousands and tens of thousands of who scarcely ever see a green field. I am aware that, these valetudinarians in this overgrown Babylon, the run to gardens being private property, and intended for the use of Boxmoor or Tring and back, twice or thrice a-week, will the inhabitants of the squares, this plan could only be prove a means of preserving health and prolonging life more carried into effect with the permission and consent of the | powerful than all the drugs in Apothecaries' Hall.” parties interested : but I should hope there would be no So much for the mode of travelling ; but the facilities obstacle on their part. The number of persons frequenting which it will afford to pent-up citizens to migrate from their these grounds is very small; those at present exclusively confined atmosphere, and dismal scenery of brick and
LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.
mortar, into the fresh free air and beautiful expanse of the country, are still more important benefits conferred by railroads. Southampton and the Isle of Wight will be as near at hand as Richmond was in days of yore ; the balmy breezes and calm bays of Devonshire will be distant but a few hours' trip. Who then would deny himself the pleasure of beholding with his own eyes the beauties of his country, or pine in disease for want of healthful recreation ? To a benevolent mind, the pleasure derived from travelling by railroad must be much enhanced by the consideration that the rapid, agreeable motion is produced by the action, not of sentient bone and muscle, but by that of inorganic, insensible agents.
Admirable as railroads are in most respects, it is to be deeply regretted that so many accidents, as they are termed, have occurred upon them. Most of these appear to have resulted from gross carelessnes or incapacity on the part of the conductors of the engines. A situation like this, on which so many lives depend, should be entrusted to none but men fully competent to the discharge of their duties, and of known sobriety and steadiness; it deserves to be considered, whether it would not be advisable that these engineers should be subjected to the same responsibilities as pilots of vessels ; and in cases of neglect, be dismissed from their posts, and never afterwards employed. The Railroad Companies owe it to the public and to themselves, to pay more attention to this subject than they appear to have done hitherto. Such occurrences as the collision of the trains drawn by the engines Orion and Hercules, which happened some time since on the Liverpool and Manchester line, the effects of which I witnessed, by which the engines were dashed to pieces, the trains overthrown, the banks broken down, the road stopped up for a considerable time, and great alarm spread for many miles, such occurrences, I say, cannot fail to do much injury to railroad companies. On this occasion they were luggage trains, containing merchandise only, and thus few or no lives were lost. Had they been first-class trains, the loss of life would in all probability have been awful. Since the above remarks were first published, more care appears to haye been taken on railroads ; in consequence of which accidents have been of much less frequent
Dresses — Among the most still prevailing modes of ornamenting the present style of dress in the lighter fabrics, as well as those wbich have in some measure gone by, may be cited the application of laces and blonde in various forms, and of manu. factures and periods still more various.
The fur ornaments, have, of course, very nearly disappeared with the exception of those applicable to other periods of the year, than the extremely rigorous visitations which we have lately experienced, would point out such as the swan's down, and other delicate and light textures of this kind of ornament.
Laces are also profusely worn, and equally with the light summer as with the silken and more heavy fabrics.
HATS AND CAPS – We have a few novel shapes which from their lightness and elegance of construction may, with confidence, be predicted to have a more than ordinary run, though, for the most part, we must postpone the important notices to another bulletin.
A considerable deal of importance is attached in the present styles to matters considered (rather lightly it must be remarked), as of minor consequence.
The tournure of a single ribbon, the inclination of a feather, the choice or position of a single field flower, in our present modes more than ever tend to give cbaracter to the costume.
The gétana coiffure of velvet, consisting of a petit band baving a considerable inclination towards the back part of the head, and permitting in front a couple of demè-couronnes to be placed with very admirable effect, bas been peculiarly esteemed as one of the most elegant productions of the season. The back part is em. bellished, when corresponding with the dress, with torsades of diamonds, from wbich depend in folds a demivoile of silver lace.
Another, having a golden resille and torsade of the same, ter. minated with acorns falling low on one side, wbile on the other a bouquet of flowers in the materials of the head dress, with petals of gold.
An elegant coiffure was formed of blonde, serpentining round the head in a manner to produce something of the resemblance of a crown, across part of which the bair was beautifully arranged.
MATERIALS AND COLORs. — We may be permitted at last fairly to launch out, in the application of the varieties of light and elegant fabrics, which our designers, English and Foreign, have been busily occupied in producing. In the wide field for the display of taste afforded by the fashionable and admired styles of embroidery now in vogue, we find the difficulty, not in obtaining what we want, but in fixing on a choice.
In no former period has the art of embroidery, in all its various kinds been brought to a greater degree of perfection : not only has the strictly ornamental style been varied into an infinity of forms, beautiful to the eye, and adapted to the particular class of dress, but patterns of a more complex kind, as delineations of form, or domestic or historical subjects have been attempted with
The innumerable steam-boats plying on the river are another comparatively recent means of securing health to the metropolitans. The benefit derived from a trip for thirty miles down the river on a fine summer's day, is very great. The lively bustle of the river, the beautiful scenery on its banks, and the swift motion of the vessel through the water, all tend powerfully to alienate, for a time, the mind of the business-pressed citizen from his daily thoughts ; and the refreshing breeze which is almost always on the river has a most healthful effect. By these conveyanccs a person may visit the sea and return to his home the same evening.
By bringing men of different countries more into contact with one another, and by promoting the more complete interchange of opinion and community of feeling between the inhabitants of the same country, steam-conveyances contribute to the health by giving rise to kind mutual feelings consequent on better acquaintance with mankind, and on the dispersion of prejudices. How such a state of mind operates upon the animal economy must be sufficiently obvious to the readers of this book.-Curtis on Health.
And this great excellence in the art has not been confined to a few fabrics only, each or almost all may, according to the taste of the wearer, be worked into devices, considered suitable to the texture, to the fashion of the dress, or the period it is intended to represent. And this practice in the imitations of the peculiarities of syle of the various æras in fashion, has been fostered by the widely prevailing taste in the aristocratic circles of adopting the mode of costume of our ancestors, immediate and remote.
Muslins, Batistes, Indian Muslins, Tulles, Organdis, &c. are worn plain, or embellished in some of the above styles.
VARIETIES.-- Collars, Colereties, Manchettes, Mantillas, Fichus, and variously contrived ornaments in Lingerie, decorated with the most beautiful specimen of the work of the needle, are in great estimation, and this species of luxury goes so far as to eclipse
most of our former efforts at perfection. Many of our most beautiful styles of shawl and fichu mantelet, &c. are varied in their effect by the application of bands of muslin embroidered tulle in the same manner with a darker colored lining, and edged with lace.
The damasked velvet shawls, with the ample and flowing fringes of silk, and sometimes saiin bands appliqué are in great requisition.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
PLATE I. Figure 1.- Evening Dress.- Batiste dress, corsage draped in the upper part, somewhat en cæur in front, and pointed at the ceinture. Sleeves in bouffans and lace sabots, the skirt caught up by a couple of roses. Hair ornaments with flowers.
FIGURE 2.- Evening Dress.- Pekin dress, corsage very close fitting, ornamented down the front with a row of neuds, and having a lace bordering surrounding the ceinture, The sleeves having volans in the upper part with lace sabot. The skirt simi. larly embellished, and having, as well as the upper part of the corsage, the addition of a lace ornament of ancient design.
Figure I.- Dinner Dress.-Gros de Tour dress, draped in bands of equal widths, occupying a rather large portion of the dress. The sleeve ornamented in a very novel and elegant style, being partly looped up and terminating in blond, sabot and tassel. The skirt having three rows of flounces figuring tablier in front. The hair ornamented with a single feather.
The Half Figures are back representations of the dresses beneath ; velvet beret hat is ornamented with net work and feathers.
The Turbans are composed of tulle and crape, iritermingled with silver lace and fringe. The Caps of blonde with barbes á la paysanne.
PLATE 2. Figure 1.-Bal! Dress. – Muslin dress, the upper part of corsage draped rather deep, corsage en pointe; sleeves short, orna. mented with ruches formed in festoons. The skirt ample, and embellished in a similar manner. The coiffure decorated with flowers.
Figure 2.- EVENING Dress. - Levantine dress, the corsage close fitting, and as well as the skirt, ornamented with embroidery sloped from the shoulders towards the centre. Tbe sleeve, which is ornamented with bouffans, bas a very long lace ruffle hanging pendant much below the wrist. The skirt having the addition of devans serpentining in the tablier form, from the ceinture to the hem. The cap of tulle, in bouillons, with long ends, terminated in fringes.
FIGURE 3 – Evening Dress.-Crape dress, half high mount. ing corsage, draped in the upper part, and divided perpendicularly by a band in the middle. The sleeves short and fitting closely, ornamented with ribbon, bands and ends; the skirt plain and rather full. Hat of velvet with fringed ends.
FIGURE 4.-Evening Dress.- Indian muslin dress, the corsage half high mounting and ornamented with a ribbon, inserted as a border, made full in front, and slightly overlapping at the upper part of the bust; the sleeve composed of a treble row of bouffans, the skirt having a similar display of founces. The coiffure ornamented with marabouts and flowers. First balf figure of satin in the redingote style, slightly draped and bordered in the front of the bust, with a narrow but rather full edging of blond. The sleeves full, and having a frilling of black net ornamenting the upper part. Hat bouquet and feathers.
SECOND HALF FIGURE.- CARRIAGE Dress.- Cachmerienne dress, braided on the bust, back, and down the front; the sleeves gaibered at top with volans and lace wristband.
The bonnets in velvet and satin, embellished with garlands and ribbons.
Blond caps with barbes, full, and hanging low at the sides. Velvet beret with fringed barbes,
PLATE III. Figure 1.- PROMENADE DRESS.- Satin dress, bigb mounting corsage with embroidered chemisette, exhibited in frout by the cut of the dress at the bust; the sleeves in bouffans at top, and fall thence to the wrist; the skirt very full, having down the front ornaments in velvet, figuring tablier, with parallel pieces crossing down the whole extent. The velvet hat ornamented with a bouquet.
FIGURE 2.- Carriage Dress.-Levantine dress, the corsage fitting accurately to the shape, having a deep blond edging; the sleeves full, with a portion slightly gathered at top; the skirt ample, and having a row of velvet ornaments down the front. Satin hat and feathers.
FIGURE 3.– Walking Dress.- Organdi dress, cut, as to the corsage, in a manner resembling the previously described one, but rather lower at the bust; the sleeve having in the upper part bouffans rather close to the arm, the middle part wide and full, the lower part of the skirt baving two rows of bouillons entirely surrounding it near to the termination. Gros de Tour Hat with satin ornaments.
Figure 4.-- Evening Dress.-Crape tunic, the corsage deep with a slight drapery in front, terminating in a point, and a deep lace mantilla ornament in addition ; a bordering of the same proceeds down the front in a double row, widening materially at the lower part. Marabaut feathers ornament the corners. Tbe bair embellished with feathers.
The First Half Figure, composed of batiste, is close fitting in the corsage, the epaulette gathered with bouffans and wide thence to the wrist.
The second Half Figure is a representation of the back view of the costume immediately beneath it.
The capotes of satin and figured silk bave a somewbat greater amplitude in the brim than most of those already described. The ornaments are small bouquets.
The caps in tulle and batiste are decoroted with small bouquets and paradise feathers, as well as satin pipings, which give a desirable variety.
PLATE IV. Figure 1.-- Evening Dress.- Satin dress, corsage cut very low, and baving a double worked edging, and blond border of old pattern : the corsage is besides embellished down the front in the Elizabethan style. The front is embellished en tablier, with a double row of ornaments, which also run parallel down the front, having the addition of blonde volans; the sleeve formed of bouffans and lace ruffled. The coiffure simply ornamented with a ribbon twisted among the bair.
FIGURE 2. — Walking dress of French merino, made high on the neck, the upper part of the sleeves having bouffans, and made thence full to the wrist; a flounce laid on full with piped beading is placed round the bottom of the dress. Satin bat and feathers.
Figure 3 – Walking Dress.- Pekin ridingote, the corsage made high on the neck, with a blonde fulling fixed by a brooch ; the upper part slightly draped; the sleeve in the upper part is embellished with several rows of bouffans, the rest of the sleeve full: bouillons of the same material as the dress are placed in the tablier form down the front of the skirt. The hat of satin, bas a bouquet ornament.
Figure 4.–Promenade Dress.—Satin de laine dress, the corsage made to fit the shape with the nicest accuracy, and ex. tending partly over the hips, terminated in front in a sharp point which reaches very low; the sleeves full, with ornaments appliqué to the upper part; the skirt laid on full. Crape bat, ornamented with drooping feathers.
The Half Figures represent back views.
The Hat of satin and watered silk are, for the most part, orna. mented with small bouquets; an elegant drooping feather is also seen slightly curved up at bottom.
The Caps are mostly lace in front, with wide barbes hanging low on the sides, and bouquets.