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Πολλα μεν δη και αλλα ιδοι τις αν Ελλησι, τα δε και ακουσαι θαυμαίος αξία.
DF2P DE
V.2
LONDON: PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WHITEFRIARS.
CONTENTS
ΤΟ
VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
General remarks, and miscellaneous customs-Soil and climate of Attica-Provisions-Music of
modern Greece-Dances-Complaints made at Constantinople against the Voivode of Athens-
Intrusion of the Disdar into the bath of Turkish women-his discovery and danger—his flight to
Ægina, and clandestine return to Athens-his concealment in the author's house-Visit of the
author to the Disdar's wife, and their perilous situation-Superstitions of the Athenians-The
Evil, or Envious Eye-Games of the modern Greeks-Birds of Attica-Reptiles-Insects—
Compendium of the final history of Athens, and its capture by the Turks
Page 1
CHAPTER II.
Journey to Thessaly-Kasha-Castle of Phyle-Skourto-To Kakasialasi-Thebes-Lake of Hylika
-Villages Sengena and Karditza-Ruins of Akraiphnion-Ruins of a city, probably Kopai—Lake
Kopais-Village Kokinos-Katabathra-Village Martini-Pass of Andera-Ruins-Opuntian
gulf-Likadi islands-Ruins of a city-Town of Talando-Village Libanatis-Ancient fort
near the sea-Ruins of a city-Villages Longaki, Dervitziali, Andera, and Katomolo-Pass of
Thermopyla-Thermal springs-Mount Oeta-Khan
51
CHAPTER III.
To Zetoun, remains of Lamia-Ruins of a city-Village Stilidi-Ruins of Echinos-Villages of Rakes
and Karditza-Ruins of a city-Villages of Makala and Pteleo-Ruins of a city-Village of
Surbis-Ruins of a city-Town of Armiro-Village of Staikes-Ruins of a city-Remains of
Pagasai and Demetrias-Castle and town of Bolo-Mount Pelion, and the gulf of Pagasai-
Ruins of Iolkos-Town of Belestina, and ruins of Pherai-Hyperian fountain-Villages of
Tolelere and Mouimos-Larissa-Singular conduct of the archbishop-Insolence of the Turks
-River Peneios-Camels-Mount Olympos-Villages of Baba and Ampelachia-Vale of
Tempe-Proconsular inscription Page 77
CHAPTER IV.
Return to Athens-Villages of Nikali and Enebelere—Plain, town, and acropolis of Pharsalia-
Thaumakia-Magnificent view from it-Zetoun-The pass of Thermopylæ, and passage over
Mount Oeta-Doris-Ruins of two cities-Lilæa, and sources of the Cephissos-Town of Dadi,
probably Ampikleia-Remains of two other cities-Belitza, (Tithoraia)-Elateia-Charoneia
-Orchomenos-Haliartos-Onchestos-Thebes-Euripos and Chalcis in Euboea-Situation of
Aulis-Plain of Delion-Village of Boiati-Ruins of Oropos-Village of Marathona-Plain of
Marathon-Great tumulus-Cave of Pan-Monastery of Pentele-Arrival at Athens
118
CHAPTER V.
Departure from Athens-To Eleusis-Mystic way-Monastery of Daphne-Votive rock-Sacred
springs-Bethels-Eleusis-Mount Kerata-Megara-Its territory and ports-Extensive view
-Mount Gerania-Derbeni-Magnificent view-Isthmus of Corinth-Remains of the great
foss, and Isthmian walls-The Acrocorinthos-Beauty of the view from its vicinity-Doric
temple-Port Kenchreai-Bath of Helena-Ancient sepulchres near the village of Mertesa-
Excavations-Terra cotta vase-Mouth of an ancient well at Corinth 168
CHAPTER VI.
Tour of Argolis-To Nemea-Ruins of Kleonai-Cave of the Nemean lion-Fount Langia-Ruins
of Nemea-Village of Kutchukmadi-Village of Saint George-Phliasian plain-Pass of Tretos
-Fine view of the plain of Argos-Ruins of Argos-Theatre-Acropolis-Cyclopian walls—
Final history of Argos-The Inachos-Source of the Erasinos-Lake of Lerna-The Hydra-
Mount Pontinos-Ruins of Mycena-Treasury of Atreus-Gate of the lions-Acropolis-
Cyclopian walls-Ruins of Tiryns-Nauplia
205
CHAPTER VII.
Tour of Epidauria-Village of Ligurio, and ruins on the road to it-Sacred forest of Esculapius-
Temples-Theatre-Other remains-Village Epidaura-Ruins of Epidauros-Village of Ka-
rangia-Remains of an ancient city-Village of Damala-Ruins of Trozen-Acropolis-Pro-
montory of Methana-Town of Poros-Island of Kalauria-Temple of Neptune-To Methana
-The isthmus-Promontory-Village-Ruins of the ancient city-Village of Dara-Village of
Phanari-Superb view of the gulf-Ruins of an ancient city-Telegraphic beacons-Remains of
an ancient city-Village of Epidaura-Village of Piada-Gifts of hospitality-Village of Agios
Joannes-Arrival at Corinth
Page 253
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CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Corinth-Fertility of the country-Village of Basilika-Ruins of Sicyon-Theatre
and other remains-Village of Xylo-Kastro, and ruins of an ancient city, probably Ægira—
Khan of Kamares-Khan of Sakratos, ruins on the way, and remains of an ancient city at
Mauro-Petra, probably Aigai-River Sakratas, the ancient Krathis-To Bostitza-Grandeur
of the scenery-River Bouraïkos-River Selinos-Ruins of Ægion-Great platanus and spring
-To Patra-The rivers Phoenix and Meganitas-Magnificent view of the gulf-From Patra to
the khan of Palaio-Achaia-River Kamenitza, the ancient Peiros-Uncertain situations of
Olenos, Pharai, and Dyme-Ruins of an ancient city near the khan-To Mauro Bouna-Ruins
of a castle, probably Teichos-Cape Papa, anciently Araxos-From Mauro Bouna to Capelletto
-To Palaiopoli, Elis-River Peneios-Ruins of Elis-Acropolis-To Pyrgo-To Phloka-
The Alpheios-To the ruins of Olympia-The Kladeos and Alpheios-Plain of Olympia-
Beauty of the scenery-Hill of Saturn-Temple of Jupiter Olympios-Ancient armour-Village
of Miraka-Description of a Turkish pyrgos-Earthquake
292
CHAPTER IX.
To Palaio Phanari, probably Phrixa-Passage of the Alpheios-Ruins of Phrixa-To Brina-
Kaiapha-Ruins of Samikon-River Anigros-Caves of the Anagriades and Atlantides-Khan
of Agios Isodoros-Uncertainty concerning the situation of Pylos-Ruins of an ancient city.
near Strobitza, probably Lepreos-River Boutzi, the Neda-Town of Arkadia, the ancient
Cyparissiai-To Kleisoura-To Constantino-Danger of being taken by thieves-Pass by a
castle which was occupied by them-See them besieged in the village of Aletouri-Captain of
the thieves-Plain of Messenia-To Mauro Mati, the ancient Messene-Ruins of a triangular
bridge over the confluence of two rivers-Deserted monastery, and magnificent view-Village
of Mauro Mati-Mount Ithome-Ruins-Panoramic view from its summit-Ruins of Messene
-Walls of the city-Great gates 339