WHEN WASHINGTON TOURED NEW ENGLAND

(Fifth Paper)

HE CALLS AT HARVARD AND SALEM BY WAY OF MARBLEHEAD

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FTER four busy days in Boston, in which he was occupied with receiving and paying visits, inspecting industries and responding to public demonstrations of different sorts, Washington resumed his journey eastward on the morning of Oct. 29, 1789.

The eastern limit of his trip had been fixed at the opulent old shipping town of Portsmouth, N. H. His route was to take him through two other rich shipping towns, Salem and Newburyport. This would take him into unfamiliar territory, for though he had been three times to Boston, he had never been so far east of it.

Owing to the lateness of the season, which meant, with Autumn rains, rapid deterioration of roads which were none too good at their best, Washington had reasons for hastening on his way after leaving Boston, in order to complete his journey eastward and get back to New York, the seat of Government, before the advent of Winter weather.

He was impatient also to be again with his family, absence from whom he did not well support.

In spite of these spurs to haste, he did not permit himself to appear hurried, or to neglect opportunities to inspect the natural beauties or the resources of the country which he passed.

HOW HE LEFT BOSTON

Having accepted an invitation to visit Harvard College, Washington left Boston with the purpose of making a détour to Cambridge before taking the road eastward. He was accompanied as he set out from his lodgings, at the corner of Tremont and Court streets-where the Hemenway Building now stands—by a military escort. Various Bostonians of prominence had been appointed to bear him company, but at the hour set for Washington's departure, eight o'clock, only a few had arrived.

Promptness being one of Washington's virtues, he departed with

out them, and the late comers, arriving in their carriages or mounted, were fain to make haste to overtake him.

Washington's route out of Boston was by the then new bridge over the Charles River from the North End to Charlestown. It stood on the site of the present highway and Elevated Railroad bridge.

To reach the bridge Washington and his escort passed down Hanover street to Prince and thence through Prince street. The present northern portion of Washington street was not then built, and much of the section through which it passes was occupied by the Mill Pond that had its center where we see Haymarket square.

Washington was much interested in the new bridge and stopped to inspect it. He made note of the fact that it had separate footways for pedestrians, not common in bridges at that time.

WASHINGTON AT HARVARD

In his drive through Charlestown and beyond Washington viewed again, after a lapse of nearly fourteen years, the scenes of the fighting at Breed's Hill and of the Winter operations on the heights of Somerville, which must have given him ample food for reminiscent reflection.

Before leaving Charlestown Washington turned aside to inspect "the bridge to Malden❞—on the site of the present highway bridge from Sullivan square to Everett. He declared that this and the other bridge did "great credit to the enterprising spirit of the people of the State."

From this point Washington passed through Somerville to Cambridge.

The motorist following his route, through Charlestown and Somerville, will find the road in the former far from smooth, for the streets hereabouts are much neglected. He may be in doubt also as to what streets Washington followed in cutting across Somerville to Harvard square, so greatly has this section changed since Washington's time.

At Harvard College Washington was received by President Joseph Willard, who read him an address of congratulation on the state of the country. To this Washington made a formal reply.

He was then shown about the college and after a halt of perhaps an hour resumed his journey, his objective for the day being Salem.

TO HOME OF THE "WEBFEET"

The President's route lay through North Cambridge to Mysticnow Medford-across the old bridge into Medford square and along the road at the head of the marshes to Malden; thence through Malden to Saugus, and on to Lynn.

Here the honorary escort from Boston said farewell to Washington and turned back.

Washington was interested in Lynn, which even at that early date had a reputation as a shoe manufacturing center." He noted in his diary that "it is said that 175,000 pairs of shoes (women's chiefly) have been made (here) in a year by abt. 400 workmen." He described the village as "only a row of houses, and not very thick, on each side of the road."

From Lynn Washington might have followed the direct road to Salem-still termed the old Boston road-but he chose to turn aside to visit Marblehead, "which is four miles out of the way," he wrote, adding, "but I wanted to see it." He was much interested in fish and fisheries. The fishing privilege on his estate on the Potomac was a valuable one, and his desire to see the headquarters of the New England fisheries was natural to the man.

He also must have wanted to see the home of doughty Gen John Glover and his "webfooted" regiment, who saved the day in the retreat from Long Island by their knowledge of boats, and who guided the craft that took Washington and his troops across the Delaware on the wintry night of their surprise of the Hessians at Trenton.

IN SUFFERING MARBLEHEAD

The motorist following Washington's path will find a tolerable road, beside the car tracks, from Lynn, through Swanpscott, to Marblehead. It was this road that Washington pursued, accompanied by a party of horse that had met him at the county line. At the town line the Marblehead Selectmen, of whom General Glover was one, met their distinguished guest.

Washington's reference to his stop at Marblehead is as follows:

"The chief employment of the people of Marblehead (males) is fishing; about one hundred ten vessels and eight hundred men and boys are engaged in the business. Their chief export

is fish. About five thousand souls are said to be in the place, which has the appearance of antiquity; the houses are old; the streets dirty; and the common people not very clean."

There was good reason for Marblehead's poor showing, since the fisheries had been a failure for two seasons, with many losses of vessels, and the town was suffering from poverty and dejection. Among its five thousand inhabitants, if it had that many, were four hundred fiftynine widows and eight hundred sixty-five orphans.

Marblehead's streets are much cleaner now than in Washington's time. Fishing no longer is an industry there. But the old houses remain in numbers.

RECEIVED AT LEE MANSION

Washington writes that at the Marblehead line he was "handed over to the Selectmen," who conducted him "to the house of a Mrs. Lee, where there was a cold collation prepared." Tradition says that Washington dined with General Glover at Marblehead. Doubtless he called at his house, which stands up a court off State street, not far from its foot, near the house of the Boston Yacht Club, which is on the harbor side. The only refreshment he mentions in Marblehead is the "cold collation" at the Lee mansion.

This house, the former residence of Colonel Jeremiah Lee, may be seen today, in a state of good preservation, and without its original features having been greatly changed by alterations or repairs.

It was built in 1768, at a cost of £10,000, and was quite the grandest mansion of Marblehead in those days. Its front hall is still a show piece. The house is now the home of a historical society. The motorist may come upon it, facing a tiny triangle, by leaving the main road from Swampscott at the railroad station, bearing to the right and taking the street past Abbott Hall, whose tower is the most commanding landmark in the town.

HIS WELCOME TO SALEM

While Washington viewed the ancient town of Marblehead, partook of the "cold collation"-something in the way he mentions such feasts suggests the thought that he did not like them--and visited his old comrade-in-arms at his home, his military escort filled the narrow streets of the town and waited with as much patience as might be for the signal to move on to Salem, where the chief demonstration of the day was to take place.

Washington, in leaving, passed through the town, until free of its outskirts, by the same road he had followed in entering it. It was then, and is today, the only main road into Marblehead.

Passing the neighborhood now marked by the Devereaux Railroad Station, he turned off to the right on the old road to Salem, Winding among pastures in which gray ledges and dark sentinel junipers give a rough and unsubdued aspect to the landscape, he came to the bridge across Forest River.

Here he had his first view of the blue water of Salem, Bay, with the dark coast of the North Shore beyond it. Here also he found the advance guard of Salem's welcoming host, in the form of an escort of militia, waiting at the town line.

The President's arrival at the line was signalized by a discharge of artillery in Federal street and at the fort on the water front, while the church bells were rung 15 minutes.

The Selectmen were at hand to greet the President, at their head being Abijah Northey, a member of the Society of Friends, who achieved distinction by keeping his hat on his head while he took Washington by the hand and addressed him in these words:

Friend Washington, we are glad to see thee, and in behalf of the inhabitants bid thee a hearty welcome to Salem.

GREETED WITH AN ODE

Washington quitted his carriage outside the town, and entered on "a beautiful white horse," which had been brought on the journey for such use, and was probably one of four that had been given him by the King of Spain.

The broad highway by which the traveler today enters Salem from the south, Lafayette street, did not then exist, except as a country lane barred by numerous gates. The road wound through the rocky uplands to the west, and eventually joined the Boston road to the southwest of the town.

This route brought Washington into Salem's centre by Federal street where a brigade of Militia was formed in line. Riding along the lines of the Militia, the President kept on to Main street and the square before the Courthouse.