such was the circular wooden edifice which surrounded the Plaza de Toros at Zacatecas. It seemed raised for the temporary concern, which in the sequel it proved to be, and was constructed in a very singular and awkward manner, the frame-work being composed of upright logs and beams lashed together with innumerable thongs and bands of untanned hide, across which rude planks were laid to form the floors, which, though a very uncouth looking building from without, was fitted up with something like neatness within, and answered every purpose of the Zacatecanos, being capable of containing several thousand people. All around the plaza is raised a strong high barrier of wooden bars, behind which seats are provided for the accommodation of the lower orders; then comes a range of seats in the open air, called the lunetas, sloping down towards the arena, corresponding to the pit of a theatre, but the seats running up much higher; three tiers of boxes follow, and above all, open to the sky, the crowded gallery of the plebeians; this airy seat looked the more grotesque from the long upright poles used in constructing it being left of irregular lengths, some of them shooting high above the rest of the building, on one side seen distinctly against the sky, with here and there a figure standing above the rest of the crowd, wrapped in the never-failing sarape.

In one of the boxes is stationed the person appointed as judge of the game, in full uniform; and close by stands a trumpeter, who receives his orders, and rings them forth on his brazen instrument. Immediately below, on the lunetas is placed a full band of musicians, and on the front seats of the boxes well-dressed ladies display their high head-dresses, costly shawls, and glittering fans. The box where I occasionally took my seat commanded a view, beyond the high gallery of the amphitheatre, of the rocky outline of a mountain, along the summit of which ran a line of fortifications, and adjoining them a pretty little church, which, though distant a long mile's climbing walk from Zacatecas, was seen in clear relief against the sky, and seemed to be peeping from the top of the hill into the centre of the plaza, where the picadores were idly resting on their garrochas, (very long spears, or rather strong goads, with which they are armed), and their brethren in the fight were lounging against the barriers, waiting the appearance of the enemy. It was altogether a singular scene, and on first beholding it a sensation of giddiness came over me, like that sometimes felt in viewing a large panorama. It was but a passing qualm ;-the trumpet sounded ;a bull rushed into the plaza, and the cruel sport commenced. The horsemen, who are called the Picadores, are stationed near the door where the bull enters, and receive the first onset, their art consisting in parrying the attacks of the furious animal with their garrochas;

which they sometimes do with such strength and skill as call bursts of applause from the gallery and showers of dollars from the boxes; whilst the bull passes on to perhaps a less fortunate rider whom he upsets, horse and man in the dust, plunging his horns deep into the poor animal's side; there they lay struggling, the man without the power to help himself, the bull above them, tossing his bloody horns and preparing for another thrust-the man's death seems inevitable, yet your eyes are riveted to the scene, and you can scarcely sup. press a scream of horror; when the toriadores fly forward waving their red flags, and call off the attention of the bull, which is immediately engaged by another picadore; whilst the fallen man limps off to the barriers as best he may, and some friend at hand disengages his saddle from the unlucky horse from whose wounds the life-blood is streaming. The man seemed more dead than alive; but in ten minutes he appears again better mounted, and galloping round the plaza waves his hat, and with a wild screech of defiance, flings it before the feet of the bull, and once more places his lance in rest. Better luck to him this time!-stand firm, poor horse-in vain!-down they both go, and the bull, in his rude impetus, plunges over them-beyond them-and ploughs the ground with his horns: but the horse is unhurt, and the man is on his feet in an instant. He doubles his fist, and buffets poor Rosinante in the face, as though he were to blame for falling; then seizing on his garrocha, he parries the next thrust on foot, turns the bull, receives a round of applause, and scrambles into his saddle; when the sound of the horn bids the picadores stand back, and leave the field to the toriadores, who are fancifully dressed in dashing suits of satin; the jacket short and gaily decorated, is sometimes of bright blue or yellow, in gaudy contrast to the rose-coloured smalls which button at the knee. These men, generally four or five in number, have no defence but red flags, with which they play before the bull, and dexterously foil his attacks, from time to time springing at the animal, and darting into his hide about the head and shoulders the barbed points of the banderillas-small shafts to which are attached gewgaws made of tinsel, and coloured papers cut into net-work and streamers, and fastened together in a variety of shapes with these the head and neck of the bull become bedizened; but he is growing weary of his persecutors, his rage is spent ; foaming at the mouth and moaning piteously, he trots round the plaza, eyes the barriers, and meditates escape in vain. The trumpet is heard again, and the matador steps forward with his shining sword, which, if directed by a skilful hand, soon closes the scene. Shaking his red flag and approaching the bull, he boldly courts an attack, and standing prepared, receives him on the point of the sword; down drops the poor

exhausted creature, mingling his blood with that of his victims the horses, whilst the music strikes up a joyous strain; the buffoons toss their caps in the air, dance, sing, and utter a thousand fooleries, which are answered by bursts of laughter from the gallery; the ladies chat, laugh, and flirt their fans; cool drinks are handed round, and trays of cake and confectionary; whilst below they are clearing the arena of the carcasses. These are drawn out by horses in crimson housings, which are ever at hand ready harnessed, attended by grooms in green liveries, who execute the whole business with surprising celerity, making way for the entrance of another bull.

In the meantime the uninitiated beholders of the strange spectacle feel amazed at the indifference of those around them. Sick at heart, faint, bewildered-the whole scene swims before their eyes like the confused images of a dream. The crowded seats rising cir. cle over circle high around the blood-stained arena, and the deep blue of a cloudless sky above, serenely smiling in reproachful contrast: then the hum of the multitude, mingling with the loud melody of the musical instruments, and "ever and anon" the discordant yells of the buffoons; who may well appear the creations of a disordered fancy, with their wild antics, and absurd attire as they caper about amongst the mangled remains of the horses, or fling themselves on the body of the expiring bull. But how quickly the scene changes, as, in obedience to the trumpet's note, another bull is ushered in, and the picadores again prepare to play the first part. These engagements of the horsemen are the only portions of the game which really excite the interest; and thus far it may be called a noble sport; seeing that courage, skill, and good horsemanship are displayed in it, and coolness and presence of mind are requisite qualities. The dangerous situations in which the picador is placed; the hair-breadth escapes of both man and horse, give an intense interest to the scene, and fascinate the attention in spite of the fear and disgust frequently excited. The merciless perseverance with which they follow up their persecutions of the poor animal to his final death, seems a gratuitous aggravation of the cruelty of the game; which continues till six bulls have fallen victims to the sword of the matador.

The men often suffer severely, and are lifted hastily over the barriers, bleeding and half lifeless; when, according to their strange customs on such occasions, a blanket is wrapped carefully over the sufferer, so as effectually to exclude the air, which we court round the head of a swooning man; whilst stepping over the front of a box, and making his way through the lunetas, a surgeon appears, who by his timely aid may preclude the necessity of the services of yonder priest, who is also winding his way down from amongst

the people towards the wounded man, to grant absolution if required. Thus are the priests justified in displaying their shaven crowns in all such assemblages. What a blessing! they say, for a dying sinner to have a holy father near to whom to unburthen his soul.

It is an old story, this fondness of the Spaniards, and of all nations descending from them, for this barbarous sport; but all their strange methods of varying it so as to increase the excitement of the game and amuse the vulgar, are not so generally known; and some of those which I have witnessed belong, I imagine, peculiarly to Mexico. I have seen young, unbroken horses introduced into the plaza de toros, with leather-clad fellows from the country, equally wild and shaggy, who, to the infinite diversion of the spectators, display their skill with the lazo in catching, throwing them, and binding them, and while thus bound equipping them with saddle and halter; after accomplishing which the cords are removed, a man suddenly springs into the saddle, away they go "neck or nought!"-the horse rearing, plunging, kicking, and using every possible effort to rid himself of the trammels and the burthen never felt before; the rider clinging there as though absolutely glued to the saddle. On this knack of holding on in spite of all odds, the Mexican horsemen greatly pride themselves, though it is not so difficult a matter as at first sight it appears; for the particular shape of their saddle greatly aids them in keeping their seats, and they do not scruple to cling fast with both hands if necessary to the high peak of the pummel, as they say it is all fair to hold on with their teeth, if they could, and laugh at the pride of an English rider which forbids him to use his hands in maintaining his seat, except in the proper direction of his bridle.

On other occasions donkeys become the heroes of the hour, and display an amiable equanimity, the very reverse of the fiery rage of the young horses. Their very entrance is ignominious; for the gate is thrown open at which poor toro usually makes his final exit after the matador has done his work, and in come a pair of innocent, unconscious looking asses, bearing each a clown on his back, so grotesquely arrayed and so disfigured with paint, as scarcely to resemble men. These are the picadores-each carries a long staff accordingly-and at the opposite side of the plaza, in rushes a huge toro; but you may observe he is "shorn of his beams," or, in other words, the ends of his horns have been cut off, so that he is stript of half his terrors. The clowns trot their notable steeds round the arena, each playing his part; the Allegro and the Penseroso: one weeps and shivers with affected fear; the other laughs and shouts, aud urges poor donkey towards the bull. The overthrow of both

is a matter of course; but there is little harm done; the toriadores are skipping round, ready to interfere if need be, and the chief sport consists in the comic actions of these mounted buffoons; diverting enough to the children and to the populace, but excessively ennuyant to others. The patient endurance of the poor donkeys excites your compassion, and you soon grow weary of the senseless cruelty of persecuting such unresisting stupidity.

Sometimes all the bull-fighters stand aside to make way for some well-mounted men, who enter with long lazos tocatch the fierce bull himself. This to a stranger is a curious and interesting sight. When the cord is thrown, the well-trained horses plant their feet, and join in the efforts of their riders, who, holding one end of the lazo in a large loop, whirl it round and round over their heads, then flinging it towards the bull, catch him by the horns, by the neck, by either of his legs, or by all fours at once, as they please to direct the lazo; but if unluckily they should miss their aim, which rarely happens, groans and hisses, and shouts of derision ring round the amphitheatre. The bull is entangled in their snares at last, and utterly disabled; a strong rope is passed several times round his body and securely fastened there, and a veteran rider is placed on his back, and holds fast to the rope, which is his only security in keeping his seat in addition to the particular art of balancing the body and clinging with the legs. When thus established, the bull is set free again, and the plaza is abandoned to him and his rider, who bravely keeps his seat in spite of all the mad plunges and eccentric bounds of his unwieldly steed.

It would be tedious and out of place here to enumerate more of the devices by which the Mexicans contrive to vary the amusement of the bull-fight. Let us change the scene. The shades of evening are gathering, and a turn in the quiet walks of the Alameda will be refreshing after the bewildering tumult of the amphitheatre. The pure air off the mountains may waft away the feverish disgust which follows such scenes of excitement.

It is March-the dry season has parched up every particle of vegetation that ever appears on those barren hills; yet here, beneath these shady trees, a small stream occasionally steals its way, preserving their vigour, and leaving verdure at their feet; and the rose-bushes that cluster beneath their loftier branches are blooming in fragrant beauty. What is there in this simple promenade that charms one so? There is nothing remarkable in a shady walk decorated with shrubs and roses. I have wandered in far lovelier scenes, and scarcely observed that they were fair. It must be the force of contrast-the beautiful effect of shade, and bloom, and verdure, where all around is arid, dusty, stony. But there is short time to