At length the hour of departure arrived, and I bade farewell to this remarkable spot. “Must I then leave thee, Paradise! Thus leave At two P.M., on the 3rd of September, I took coach for the town of "Lewiston," a beautiful drive of an hour, down to the banks of the river, where a steamer was in readiness to take us once more on the "Lake Ontario;" our passage lay easterly, for the port of “Oswego," one hundred and fifty miles distant, where we arrived at the unseasonable hour of four A.M., just before daybreak. Nothing could be more lovely than the weather during the voyage: a rich autumnal tone of tint -the sun going down in great splendour. After being tossed about so much on the rapids, eddies, and currents, we appeared to glide softly over the lake, which was as smooth as glass. Nothing can exceed the excellent equipment of these lake steamers, whether American or English; and, where a convivial party of friends are travelling together, it must be the perfection of pastime; being much left to my own reflections on the present occasion, my fellow-passengers being gene rally reserved and unsociable, it detracted much from the pleasure of the excursion. Much has been said of the tints and splendid sunsets on these lakes, particularly during the fall of the year. I can bear testimony to its truth: nothing could exceed the wonderfully rich tone and effect of Sol dipping into the western world on the very evening we quitted Niagara. It does not, however, exceed in splendonr that I have witnessed elsewhere, either in South America, or, indeed, nearer our own shores-the Mediterranean, or upon the coast of Calabria, among the islands of "Tromboli" and "Maritimo," where the effect is, at least, equally grand. The last-named sea presents to our associations much of what is historical; for, be it remembered, that this sea washed the shores of the four most mighty empires of old. The new world, with all its grandeur, falls short of all classical associations. We called at "Rochester," a large town, but having been visited by the cholera, which was still prevailing, we did not land there, but proceeded on to "Oswego," a town of great promise, but which presented nothing remarkable beyond the immense stores, indicating great commercial activity. The branch rail to Syracuse enabled me to join the main branch to "Utica," a large flourishing town, having the famous Erie Canal in G * the very centre.* All seemed bustle. A ramble through the principal thoroughfare gave me a sufficient idea of the spot, and, after satisfying the craving of nature (for the wear and tear of the animal man is great, and must be gratified), resumed my journey per rail, and arrived, after a good day's travelling, at Albany for the night. I should have selected another course on my return, but, when I left Niagara, the cholera was raging at Buffalo and other places which lay in my intended line of route. The country which was passed, with the Erie Canal in view as far as Albany, appeared open; forest land, in every direction, giving way to the axe. We passed, occasionally, through a dense wood, crossing rustic bridges where the brooks or streams intersected, and stations are roughly built up, over an extent of two hundred miles of new country, but thinly populated; no people but the Americans could have made such progress; they have, however, all the materials at hand excepting iron rail. The average expense for a single line of rail is only five to six thousand pounds per * Erie Canal is 363 miles long, with a lockage of 688 feet-eighty-four locks in number, ninety feet in length by fifteen wide, with a draught of four feet of water (vessels can carry 700 barrels of flour), and connecting Lake Erie with the Hudson. mile. I noticed no tunnels, aqueducts, or viaducts, the rail running over a flat surface. For some time we had the old Mohawk in view, winding its way through the valley of that name. Travelling amidst the forest trees so great a distance, is, from its novelty, somewhat interesting. After an exciting days' journey, we arrived once more in Albany. Shunning the noisy part of the town, I put up at an excellent house on the hill, and was glad of two days' quiet to arrange and note in my journal the many events which the bustle or excitement of the moment had hitherto prevented me committing to paper. CHAPTER VII. "Francis Skiddy," river Steamer.-Return to New York City. Omnibuses described. National Pictures.Literature--European Books reprinted.-Punch and Illustrated London News.-Native Talent, its deficiency. -Prints, &c.-Result of Great Britain's Colonization. -Departure by "Arctic," Steamer, to Liverpool, and description of her.-Cunard and Collings's line of Mail-boats-Testimony to Capt. Luce, and the Officers and crew of the " Arctic."-Arrived safe, the last day experienced a gale of wind.-Parting words. ONCE more on the Hudson, en route to New York, at seven A.M. on the 7th of September, I found myself on board the splendid and well-appointed steamer, the "Francis Skiddey." This boat, measuring in length three hundred and twenty-five feet, draws five feet and a half water; depth of hold ten feet; can accommodate five thousand persons (having four decks). She has a pair of beam engines of sixteen hundred horse power collectively; diameter of paddle-wheels forty feet; width of deck thirty-nine feet; including paddles, sixty-three feet. The cost of her engines 50,000 dollars, and the boat itself 104,000 : total 154,000 dollars. The engines are worked at a high-pressure; the speed obtained is about eighteen miles an hour. The saloons are most elegantly |