THE STRENGTH OF TWO-ROW HEDGES WHEN PLEACHED.

Single-row hedges cannot well be renewed by laying without stakes. But double rows may not only be laid or pleached without stakes, but, when laid down in a proper manner, the hedges will constitute a very strong fence. Two-row hedges are believed to be much the best adapted to resist the stress of gales of wind, the attempts of rampant animals to break over them, and for any contingencies requiring great strength in à fence.

Figure 3 represents a section of the horizontal form of laying the brush of each of the rows backward and obliquely over to the opposite side. The stems of the thorns are pleached, one from each side or row, alternately, each sapling being brought down from the opposite side, and laid in such a manner that each stem crosses the last one laid, about midway of its length, and in the center between the hedge rows, the angle formed between the saplings and the ground being about thirty degrees. In illustration of the great strength of this form of two-rowed hedge, Figure 4 represents a vertical section of the same, which is five feet high above the ridge, and forms an almost impassable barrier against any farm stock.

SINGLE-ROW HEDGE NOT EFFICIENT UNLESS STAKED.

After special examination of one-row fence, in Illinois, both unlaid and such as is called laid, the conclusion is reached that neither neat or efficient single-row hedge can be made without the aid of stakes ; and it is stated that in the British Islands, stakes are always employed to give it stiffness, and hold it in line in pleaching. Specimens of the single-row Osage thorn that we saw had much the appearance of a line of brush with tops all outward, and butt-ends in the center. Such single-row fence spreads so wide, and settles to the ground so much, that it occupies even more space, as seen in Figure 5, while not possessing a third of the value, as a fence, that is required by a substantial two-row hedge; and the single-row fence-it cannot be correctly called hedgemast sag and settle toward the ground, if pleached without staking. We have examined some specimens in which there were live stakes, obtained by cutting off the tops, and leaving the lower of the thorn

stems.

DISADVANTAGES OF LIVE STAKES.

Live stakes may save a portion of the time that should be devoted to preparing others, but the subsequent disadvantages resulting from their he will more than outweigh the trifling saving of time effected. A hedge becomes thin at the base of the growing stakes, the sap ascending trimmed at the top of the stakes, instead of sending up shoots, as would be the case if the stake saplings were laid at the bottom to thicken it with young growth. Another defect is, that numbers of vigorous shoots spring from the crowns of the stakes, forming and maintaining a growth of shoots two or three feet in advance, and higher than the general height of the hedge. It is also necessary to cut live stakes off at the detached wood is used. Dead or detached stakes are always preferable to live ones; they serve two or three years before decaying, by which

time the form and material of the hedge become set, or firmly fixed by growth, and stakes are no longer necessary.

The tops of the stakes, set three feet apart, are bound at the top by winding or wattling long, slender, thorn stems so as to inclose the tops of stakes between them. The object of staking is to so stiffen a hedge that it can be made with far less thorn material than would be practicable if stakes were not employed. The stakes also prevent the sagging of pleached or obliquely laid saplings, preventing the oblique material from smothering the young undergrowth of shoots from the base of the fence. The strength imparted by the stakes also prevents the brush from being pushed out of line by stock, or blown out by gusty winds. The object of wattling or double-winding them at the top with saplings, which makes a much more handsome fence, is to hold the tops of the stakes, and consequently of the fence, in a straight, even line.

In an Osage thorn single-row hedge, trained in this tapering form, the top of the hedge will not prevent either sunlight or rain from access to its outside growth, as would be the case with square or flat top training. There are specimens of square-top Osage thorn hedge in the west, the bottom of which is already thin, and in places open.

PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS.

Strong, two-rowed hedges are much more suitable for large inclosures, to turn rampant animals, to bear severe stress of boisterous winds, or for any purpose where a very strong fence is necessary, than a single-row fence can ever become under the best possible management. The doublerow will make the best fence for farmers generally, particularly where the farms and their subdivisions are extensive in area.

Single-row fence seems most suitable for vegetable and flower gardens, and nursery grounds, besides lawn and ornamental grounds, as before stated. It bears trimming better, and requires less ground for growth.

SETTING QUICKS IN HEDGE ROWS.

This hedge-row ridge, having been prepared in the fall as suggested, may be harrowed over once or twice, as soon as the frost is out of the ground in early spring. A mode of setting Osage thorn quicks, known as spade-setting, consists in opening a line of slits in the surface soil, at regular distances on the line of the intended hedge, with a long, narrow spade. The spade being thrust down a sufficient depth, is pushed forward from the operator, when an assistant inserts the root ends of the young quicks. There are serious objections to this mode of setting. The quicks are not set, but tucked in and often doubled back, the roots being placed between two flat surfaces, when the spade is withdrawn, and the slit closed by pressing the soil back against the quick with the foot, which process as certainly flattens the roots as a botanical specimen is flattened between the leaves of a book. This flat position and restricted direction of the young roots must retard the formation of an efficient hedge.

FURROW TRENCHES FOR DOUBLE-LINE QUICK ROWS.

For making the trenches a plow with a deep land-side is best, forming a deep furrow, smoothed on one side. A new mode of furrow-trenching and of setting Osage thorn quicks in the trenches is shown in Figure 6, which represents a cross-section of double-row trenches on the crown of

the ridge. Stakes are set the whole length of the fence line in the center. The distance between the quick rows is two feet. The trenching is commenced by first plowing a light furrow toward the center, which will rest on the space between the trenches. Next turn a light furrow on top of the first, depositing this also over the space between the trenches. Then plow a furrow out of the bottom of each trench, turning both furrows outward from the lines of the quick rows. By this process of taking two furrows from each trench, a suitable supply of mold is deposited precisely where it is most needed to fill in about the roots of the quicks, when these are set up.

The old mode of setting the quicks, at uniform distance between the rows, was by means of a line with colored strings tied to it at the required distances. The land side of the furrow was the support to stand the quicks against, and guide them in a straight line. But the land side of the trench was liable to be crooked, and the labor and time required were considerable. A more serious objection, however, is that some of the roots of the quicks are turned aside from their natural position by pressing against the wall of the trench. This misplacement of the roots retards their growth in some degree, but the injury is less than that of the same kind incident to slit-setting, by means of a spade. Another defect is that all the soil is turned out on one side of the trench, providing no mold to fill in on the other side of the quicks.

THE SETTING GUIDE.

As a rope or garden line cannot be kept straight, and the land side of single furrows is liable to the same objection, a tool has been devised which may answer the three-fold purpose of spacing the quicks as they are placed in the trenches, as a support to the quicks, and as a guide to keep them in line; these several objects being desirable, and even necessary, before and during the operation of filling in the soil, and earthing up the quicks. This setting guide will cost only a few cents and a little labor. It is made by taking a narrow strip of inch board or three or four inch batten, fourteen to sixteen feet long, and attaching to it three strips. of hard wood, one in the middle, and one at each end, for legs, which should be sixteen to eighteen inches long. Figure 7 gives a side outline of this form as set for use, about one-third of its width from the land side of the furrow-trench. Vertical chalk marks can be made on this setting guide, or small pins of wood may be inserted at the distance the quicks are to stand in the rows, two feet being a good distance for a two-row hedge, giving one plant to every foot in length of the fence. Of course, the quicks in each row will be placed opposite the spaces in the other. The quicks in the figure are spaced one foot between, as for a single-row hedge. If holes are made at intervals of four inches, the entire length of the guide, pins can be inserted, and the quicks be set at any number of inches apart that is a multiple of four. By placing the quicks in the angles formed by the pins or pegs and the horizontal strip, they are supported in position on two sides, and can be placed as they are to remain in the trenches, with ease and rapidity. When the lines are properly staked in each trench, the stakes being set so that the guide may be against two at each time of its removal, there will be no sagging, nor any side-ways deflection of the setting guide or the row, while the quicks are placed and supported in a good form to have their roots properly extended and molded, and the soil filled in on both sides of the

rows.