recreations on the quarter-deck, we were then passing close beside Volcano, with Lipari, and Celina on our starboard hand, and at midnight we passed Palermo on the port.

Nov. 1st.-At sunrise we can still see the coast of Sicily in the distance, and at 8 A.M. we have the Ægades on our portbeam; there is no wind, and at noon Europa Point (Gibraltar) is distant 837 miles. After evening quarters there was more "slinging the monkey," the secret of success in which, when you are the monkey, appears to be to get well through the slings, otherwise if they are close under the arms you are practically helpless. In the evening we had four or five hours' fog. After dinner much amusement trying to sit on an empty quart bottle on the deck, at the same time holding a candle in each hand, one of which was lighted, and the other to be lighted from it without rolling over.

Nov. 3rd.-About noon a strong Levanter sprung up to which we made all possible sail, stopped the engines, raised the screw and so went bowling along between seven and eight knots; this lasted also the whole of the next day, so that on Wednesday, the fifth, we passed Cape de Gatte at 8 A.M. and had a fine sight again of the Sierra Nevada covered with snow. In the afternoon a steamer (the Sicilian) steering eastward made signal that she wished to communicate; so we accordingly hove to and waited for her to close us. In the meanwhile we were speculating as to whether she had any news of importance for us from Gibraltar, or whether she wanted the services of one of our two junior doctors. All that was required, however, was a chart of the Adriatic which the captain then sent on board in one of our cutters. She thanked us and we both proceeded on our way.

Nov. 6th.-At 4.30. A.M. observed Europa Light, the southernmost point of Gibraltar Rock bearing west by south, and soon after daylight through the misty morning saw the dark shadowy form of the island-like fortress towering up on the starboard bow. We altered course and stood away under sail whilst steam was being raised; got the screw down and at 7.30. A.M. began steaming and came in and secured alongside the New Mole by 9.40 A.M. Mr. G. A. Sceales, assistant paymaster, joined. At 3.30 P.M. walked up from the dockyard along the Alameda to the Convent to call on Lord and Lady Napier of Magdala, who have arrived since we were here a month ago, and afterwards up to Captain Edye's to tea and eat fruit in the garden. Another of our messmates of the same term as ourselves in the Britannia passed to-day for midshipman.

Nov. 7th.-In the afternoon at 2.30 P.M. a party of four of us from the gun-room started from the Mole on horses and were conducted by Colonel Lemprière, R.E., up to the Gun Rock, the northernmost of the three highest points on the ridge. Here we witnessed some curious practice made by men of the Rifle Brigade firing down on to a target in Catalan Bay. Then on along the ridge to the signal station the central point of the Rock 1294 feet above the sea. All the ships passing the Straits are signalled from this station and reported to the governor below and from him to Lloyd's. We see the hills of Spain away to the north, with the Sierra Nevada in the extreme distance; across the Straits Ceuta (at the foot of the other more lofty pillar of Hercules, Ape's Hill), thirteen miles away, glistens on the African coast, and on the west, across Gibraltar Bay, five miles distant, is Algesiras; the town of Gibraltar fringes the base of the rock on this side at our feet.

The Rock is six miles altogether all round; its north, south, and east sides are rugged and nearly perpendicular. It is on the west side only that it is accessible from the sea; on this side is the town and the fortifications. At the signal station we looked over the log-roll of the monkeys, which is kept duly posted up every day both as to the numbers that were observed, the hour, and the direction they were seen to be coming from, and going towards. Yesterday twenty-two were observed, but they are fast increasing in numbers; as no one is allowed to molest them. Then on to O'Hara's tower, the most southern peak of the ridge (1361 feet), and down the rock-hewn Mediterranean stairs to the governor's summer cottage which being on the eastern side of the rock is sheltered from the sun after mid-day, and

to Monkey Cove; in the cave near which there was a huge fig tree growing, and a number of birds perpetually flying in and out. We then mounted our horses which had been sent round to meet us below and so home through the Europa Point barracks to the landing place. In the evening we dined at the Convent.

Nov. 8th.-Started at 9 A.M. with two messmates in the steam pinnace and went right along past the town up to the landing place on the neutral ground, where Colonel Lemprière met us with horses, which we there mounted and rode along the beach through the Spanish lines to San Roque, five miles distant, where

we went into the bull ring (which was of course quite empty) and after enjoying the view from the Alameda rode on to the Pine Woods. Here Lieutenant Bartle Frere overtook and rode with us the rest of the day. In crossing one of the streams the horse ridden by one of the Bacchante's lieutenants lay down and began to roll: the rider was chiefly disconcerted because the riding trousers he was wearing were borrowed. We lunched in the Pine Woods on the turf and afterwards again rode on through the second Pine Woods, over rivers and by streams to the Cork Woods, three miles further, with more than one scamper when there was a stretch of turf; the best riding, however, was when we came down

on to the sand of the bay which was quite firm. Here too, looking southwards, the view of the Rock from end to end (three miles long from north to south) is perhaps more effective than elsewhere. You see the three summits-Gun Rock, Signal Station, and O'Hara's Tower-and how completely isolated it is and parted off like an island from the mainland of Spain. It has probably been lifted at a comparatively recent geological epoch, for a marine sea-beach exists at more than 450 feet above the present sea-level. The highest point of the rock (1,467 feet high) seems nearly in the centre of the quasi island, which is six miles in circumference. As the sun went down, and the air became cooler after rather a warm day, the ride home by the side of the waves that broke crisply at our feet was most enjoyable.

Nov. 9th.-Prince of Wales's birthday. At 8 A.M. dressed ship. In the afternoon went for a walk in the lower galleries which were tunnelled in tiers inside the precipitous north cliff in 1789 and 1790; they are simply rock passages two or three miles in extent with loopholes here and there guarded by guns. Then to the upper galleries which, constructed in the same way, wind about behind the face of the north cliff of the Rock, till they lead up a huge cave called St. George's Hall from which we looked out through the open rock ports down on to Catalan Bay and on to the British and Spanish lines on the neutral ground, as the sandy isthmus connecting Gibraltar with the mainland of Spain is called; a long flat reach of about 200 acres scarcely above sea level. Looking upwards from the Windsor gallery the outline of a strange-featured head is seen apparently on the Rock side. Colonel Lemprière and Colonels Coddington and Mostyn of the 23rd Regiment met us and took us round.

Gibraltar (the name this quasi island rock has held since the Moors overflowed into Europe, is a corruption of Saracenic Jebel-Tor, the Tower Mountain) was taken by the Spaniards from the Moors in 1465, and by Sir George Rooke from the Spaniards in 1704 when garrisoned by only eighty men. France and Spain laid siege to it continuously for four years 1779-1783. importance as a depot for coal has greatly increased since all war, and nearly all trade, ships are moved entirely by steam power. It has now belonged to England for just three-fourths of the length of time for which it belonged to Castile before us.

Its

Nov. 10th. At 2.30 P.M. regatta of Bacchante's boats and others. from garrison and town. During this there was a dance on board

all the afternoon. Our launch won her first victory. Towards the conclusion of the dance the captain displayed his electric light for the first time. The ship's company had extra-supper provided for them in the evening in honour of the Prince of Wales's birthday. Nov. 11th.-At 7 A.M. began coaling ship, and at 1.30 P.M. had taken in 275 tons. General leave was given to starboard watch. At 9.30 A.M. landed with commander and six midshipmen at the jetty where Colonel Lemprière and Major Guilbard met us with horses which we mounted and then rode along with Lord Napier through the Spanish lines and by the beach to the first Venta, the meet to-day of the Calpe hounds. The large cavalcade then crossed the river, which was so swollen that the water was above most of the horses' girths, and several of the hounds had to be carried across by the huntsman, as the current was too strong for them to swim. We soon found two foxes, the first of which was killed at once, but the second gave us a good run of over an hour, up hills, down ravines, among the rocks, in a most eccentric manner; though the riding was rough we enjoyed it very much and then rode off to the second Venta, to which Lady Napier had driven out, and where lunch was spread under the trees. After this was over we raced each other back into Gibraltar over the sands, taking care however not to get entangled with the fishing nets which were spread out to dry all over the beach in front of the village outside the lines. We had the same view of the Rock as on Saturday, only to-day more than half of it is enveloped in cloud. We got inside the gates just before dusk. The Colonel and officers of the 71st Regiment, H. L. I., gave a dinner to the Captain and officers of the Bacchante. Sergeant F. Taylor, R. M. L. I., gymnastic instructor, who came out from England in the P. and O. steamer, Bokhara, joined the ship to-day.

Nov. 12th.-There was a cricket match to-day between the Bacchante and the officers of the Rifle Brigade on the neutral ground by the north front; we walked out to this, but soon afterwards had to return to the ship to see the Spanish Governor of Algesiras, who had come over that morning in a gunboat to call on Lord Napier and afterwards had gone to the Bacchante. We then went to play lawn-tennis at Colonel Mostyn's. We dined that evening at Captain Edye's and afterwards went to a dance at the Convent. The dumb-bells and clubs are being made here.

Nov. 13th.-Had a good bathe in the morning at Rosia Bay. Gave general leave to Port Watch (forty-eight hours). On board