driven high, when the shoes are reset or the horse reshod, the former nail holes are near the edge and serve to weaken the hoof and interfere with driving the new nails. On the other hand, if the nails are small in size and set well back, they can be driven so as to come out well down on the hoof, say an inch and one-half above the shoe. Nails thus driven destroy the least possible amount of horn and have a wide, strong clinch, thus giving the strongest possible hold on the wall, because the clinch holds more nearly at right angles to the grain of the wall, than if driven high. After driving the nails they are clinched in a small groove fitted for the purpose. Smooth with a rasp, but never rasp the outside of the hoof, as it will remove the natural protective covering. It is of the utmost importance that

3

this natural covering 1, Normal position; 2, hasten the action; be not removed, as the

3, retard the action.

hoof will absorb water in the wet season and dry out much more rapidly during the dry season.

Resetting the shoes. It is important that the shoes be reset frequently, as the hoof grows out over the shoe, thereby causing the shoe to bear on the sole instead of

on the wall of the hoof. As to the frequency of resetting, all depends on the conditions, such as the severity of the work, the nature of the footing, whether icy or dirt, and the individuality of the animal. Some horses at very severe work may require the shoes to be reset every week, while others at light work may suffer no inconvenience if left on eight weeks or until the shoes wear out.

Shoes for unsound feet.-There are a great variety of horse shoes upon the market, many of which have been designed from time to time to save and perfect unsound feet. Such shoes may allay the pain and prolong the usefulness of the horse, but most of them allow dirt and filth to gather under the protecting pad. Because of the wet, dirty and filthy condition of the frog and sole of the foot, due to the dirt being retained by the pad and to the partial exclusion of the air, the foot tends to become soft, tender and diseased. Various forms of rubber pads, rubber shoes, rope shoes, fiber shoes and other contrivances to diminish the shock and prevent slipping on the hard slippery pavements of our large cities are in use. They are usually expensive, but many of them are rather efficient in deadening the sound and preventing slipping on paved and cement streets, though not so effective on ice.

CHAPTER XXXVII

PRACTICAL HORSE TRAINING

The usefulness and value of a horse depend on his training and on his being readily subservient to his master's will. The horse is man's principal beast of burden, and is constantly associated with him in the performance of his work. This association establishes a close relationship. Since the effectiveness with which the work is performed depends on their mutual understanding, it seems well worth while to give the methods of establishing agreeable relationships between horse and master careful consideration.

In common usage, the term "breaking" is employed to designate the preparation of the horse for his life work. This usage is unfortunate. Only too often the horse is broken in spirit and obeys, or, more accurately, does not resist his master because he is worked down and worn out and does not have the energy to resist. Throughout this book the term "training" is employed to signify the educating of the horse, as it conveys the proper meaning, the object being to train the horse so as to increase his efficiency, and not to break that high and superb spirit that makes him the most desired of all farm animals.

Training the foal.-The foal should be handled and taught a few simple lessons while young. It is so much easier to train the foal at this time, as he has fewer ideas of his own and fewer fixed habits. If the youngster is thrifty and strong, the very first day of his life is none too soon to begin the training, as we can show, rather than 'force him to do that which he does not understand. Catching the foal. The first time the young foal is caught he should be held in such a manner as not to

cause him fright. In order to do this we should make a careful study of the factors that govern the movements of the animal. If we touch the hindquarters, he moves forward, and if we touch the forequarters he moves backward. If a horse gets his fore foot over an obstruction of any kind and feels the pressure on the foot or leg, he moves backward until he frees himself, even though he

injures himself in doing so, whereas he could very easily step over the obstruction by a forward movement. If the hind foot is fast he moves forward in a similar manner. Thus it is that pressure in front stimulates a backward movement, while pressure behind stimulates a forward movement. This is an important observation and perhaps the governing principle in all horse training, and should always be kept in mind when handling horses.

In catching a foal, gently place one arm under the neck and the other under the hams. If he attempts to go forward, apply pressure at the neck, or if he attempts to go backward, apply the pressure at the hams. If it is desired to have him step forward, relieve the pressure at the neck and apply it at the hams, or if it is desired to have the foal step backward, relieve the pressure at the hams and apply it at the neck. The young foal that is caught in this manner will soon become quiet, when he should be caressed. (Fig. 166.)

Secure the foal's confidence.-Young foals are naturally very timid and when caught should be handled very

gently. It is important to secure his complete confidence before he is set free. To do this feed him sweets from the palm of the hand; as sugar is sweeter than the dam's milk, it seems to give him the idea that we are his friend, and instead of fleeing as we enter the stall he will come to meet us, placing as much confidence in us as in his mother. In handling the foal, we should be careful to avoid confusing or exciting him. Extra care should be taken when handling the ears, the back of the fore legs, the flanks and the front of the hind legs, as these parts are extremely sensitive to the touch. The foal should be handled from both sides so as to become familiar with strange objects from every quarter. Teach the young foal useful things only. It is important to make the first lessons short and simple, and of such a nature that they can be understood very easily and even more easily accomplished.

Teach the foal to lead.-When the foal is about ten days to two weeks old he should be taught to lead. A web halter is preferable to a leather one, as it is much lighter and softer on the head. Never use a rope halter on a young foal. Adjust the web halter to the head, fastening up any loose straps that may be hanging down, as these annoy the foal. Do not be in a hurry, but let him get acquainted with everything as you proceed. When ready, coax the youngster along behind his mother on some accustomed route, as to the water trough and back. If sweets are available, let him taste them occasionally and he will soon follow promptly. If he resents, however, do not pull on his head, but take advantage of his natural instinct and apply pressure at the rear as we wish him to move forward.

Difficult to lead.-Secure a small rope, or sash cord, and tie a large loop in one end. This loop should be of sufficient size so that when placed in position on the foal it will surround his quarters, leaving the knot well forward on the back. Pass the free end along the back and