In truth, Edinburgh is quite a new phenomenon in the scale of cities. Every thing appears original, great, effective. What a beautiful prospect met our view! I did not think that there was a city which could kindle in me those feelings of enthusiasm which the sight of Edinburgh produced in my mind. I certainly consider Edinburgh the most beautiful and most interesting looking city I know; Rome and Naples not excepted. The peculiar boldness and imaginativeness of the town, is to me only another proof that reality may produce an effect exceeding even the boldest flights of fancy! We stood on the hill, beside the unwieldy iron cannon of the fifteenth century, and saw to the left the blue sea in its wide extent, studded with islands and ships of various sizes; in front, Calton Hill, the second rocky height of the city, with its lofty monument, and the commencement of a Doric temple, which completes its resemblance to the Acropolis of Athens; and, finally, to the right, the old town and the mountain, which is geologically remarkable for its considerable formations of trapp, and is sometimes spoken of by the name of Arthur's Seat; sometimes, from its resemblance to a lion couchant, by that of the Scottish Lion: all this pre-nities.

A STEED AND THE DESERT FOR ME!

BY CALDER CAMPBELL.

TRAVELS OF MOHAN LAL.*

MANY must have seen MOHAN LAL, a fine and picturesque specimen of the man of the East, during his late residence in this country; and more must have heard of his intelligence and spirit, and of his fidelity to the British cause, both before and after the disasters of Affghanistan. By the advice of his patrons and friends, probably, Mohan Lal has, in this country, republished a Journal of his travels, which appeared in India several years since, and is now out of print. He has both curtailed and added considerably to it; and the whole of his European adventures are, of course, quite new. A memoir of the author, written by his first kind patron, C. E. Trevelyan, Esq. which appeared in the Calcutta edition, is also given in this volume, and is not its least interesting part. But Mohan Lal proposes, in a subsequent publication, to give the world his version of the disasters of Affghanistan, and his own share in the painful affairs of that period. The promised work will probably, to British readers, prove more interesting than the early travels before us; though they, too, and particularly those in Persia, have an interest of a peculiar kind, both from the character and circumstances of the author, and the countries and events described.

The grandfather of Mohan Lal held rank, with a considerable estate, at the court of Delhi. His father, Rae Budh Singh, continued to reside in Delhi, after the reverses of his family, and was engaged in the capacity of Persian secretary to the Honourable Mountstuart Elphinstone, whom he accompanied to the Peshawer. The Rae acquired many friends among the British; and, as he had learned to estimate the advantages of an English education, he was willing to allow his son, who at home had received the ordinary Persian education, to join an English class just established in the Persian college at Delhi. Of this small knot of boys, Mr. Trevelyan says:—

Let no one despise the day of small things. This little class, which was formed amid the scoffs of the learned inhabitants of Delhi, and the prudential objections of not a few of the European residents; and which consisted, for several weeks after its first establishment, of only six individuals, was the nucleus of a system which, to all appearances, is destined to change the moral aspect of the whole of Upper India. Only five years have passed since that period, and an annually increasing body of the most intelligent and aspiring youths of the upper and middle classes, amounting at present to at least three hundred, is zealously pursuing the study of English; and in a few years, such a number of advocates and teachers of the new learning will have been raised up, that the system must obtain a decided predominance.

Delhi was considered the very stronghold of Mohammedan bigotry; but Mohan Lal, at all events, does not seem to participate in bigotry of any kind. He was one of the most amiable and promising of

the native boys in the English class, gaining the hearts of all who saw him. He has been equally fortunate in his subsequent career. The following trait is characteristic of Mohan Lal, and of oriental manners. He, in 1831, accompanied Dr. Gerard and Mr. Burnes to Herat, and became a great favourite with the late prince royal of Persia, Abbas Mirza. One day, when Mohan Lal had been invited to witness some court pageant, the prince asked him—

Whether Ranjit Singh's court could vie in magnificence with what he now saw before him, or whether the Sikh army could compare in discipline and courage with his highness's sirbaz To this Mohan Lal modestly, but firmly, replied, that Maharajah Ranjit Singh's darbartent was made of Kashmir shawls, and that even the floor was composed of the same costly material; and as for his army, if Sardar Hari Singh (Ranjit's commanderin-chief on the Affghan frontier) were to cross the Indus, his highness would soon be glad to make good his rein which this reply was conceived, and the tone of voice treat to his original government in Tabriz. The terms in which it was delivered, were so indicative of frankness, that no idea of an impropriety having been committed occurred to any body; yet the free expression of opinion was a thing so unheard of at the Persian court, tion for his highness's reply. This was not long delayed, that the entire audience stood waiting in silent expectaand, as nearly as the recollection of our informant serves, it was as follows:-" Wonderful, wonderful !" said Abbas Mirza, drawing the attention of the court towards Mohan Lal; "see the effect of English educainscrutable are the decrees of Providence, which has tion!" and, after a short pause, he continued-" How conferred so much power on a kafir! (infidel;) but if Ali, the Lion of God, favour us, we will yet plant our standard in Kashmir, and dress all our sirbazes in shawl pantaloons."

It was this prince who bestowed on Mohan Lal the order of the Lion and Sun. At this time, about 1832, he visited the Peshawer, Kabul, and also most of the places of note in Persia, with Mr. Burnes and Dr. Gerard; and his journal in Persia possesses considerable interest. The record, that of a very young Oriental, is plain and simple; and he appears to have been strongly attracted by the superstitions and romantic legends of the places they traversed, and also by historical and other antiquities. In the town of Peshawer, he relates—

Sultan Mohammed Khan came to Mr. Burnes, and dined with him, and with Dr. Gerard, partaking of their dishes, though a Mohammedan. He talked for a long while in a very friendly manner. astonished to see them eating together from one dish, I was very much the like of which I never saw amongst the selfish Mohammedans of India.

March 24 to 31.-The whole of Thursday I spent in writing Persian letters to the chiefs of Kabul, whom we informed of our coming into their country, requesting their permission, and their protection in case of necessity.

An Affghan, who was taken ill, came to Dr. Gerard, and asked for some medicine. Whilst he was speaking

with me, a respectable Durani, who was saying his

the bitterness of anger, and told him never to take prayers just before us, upbraided the sick man with all

"In the Panjab, Affghanistan, and Turkistan, to Balk, Bokhara, and Herat, and a Visit to Great Britain and Germany." By Mohan Lal, Knight of the Persian order of the Lion and Sun, lately attached to the Mission at Cabul. Octavo, with Portrait and Map. Pp. 528. London: Allen & Co.

medicine from Englishmen, for they were not physicians the Delhi Institution, and asked if there were others but sorcerers. educated like myself.

The bold native spirit of the Affghans is strikingly evinced in the following anecdote :

I had the pleasure of talking with Mr. Wolff, who came into my room, and told me to listen to the Bible, and be converted to Christianity, which is the best reliWe happened to pass on our road through the village gion in the world. My answer pleased the reverend of Haidur Khan, where we had a grand sight, on our gentleman very much. He added the following most left, of the white mountain, called Safaid Koh. Here singular speech :-That in the city of Bokhara he had an Affghan husbandman, leaving his station, where he an interview with Jesus Christ, who informed him that was watching some fields, came in front of us, and pre- the pleasant valley of Kashmir will be the New Jeruvented our proceeding on our journey. On our expostu-salem after a few years. I copied his narrative, which lating with him he said, with a loud and fearful voice, he sent to Lady Georgiana, in Malta. that, three days before, a man of his village hurried down to Peshawer, where some Durani took from him one rupee by force, and wished to take his life; and, continued he, "now you are all of that city, and are in my power-may my sufferings soon be revenged on you!" After many arguments, he let us pass. We applauded his noble heart and bold spirit, that made him singly oppose one hundred men, all armed, and stop them on the road.

Mohan Lal was, at first sight, disappointed in Kabul, the "garden of India," Of its since famous ruler, he remarks

Dost Mohammed Khan, the ruler of Kabul, deserves particular notice, not only as a ruler, but as a man. I might be able to delineate him in Persian, but I am not sufficiently qualified in the English language to do his character justice, therefore I must comprise my description of him in a few words. His tall stature and haughty countenance, with his proud tone of speech and plain dress, indicate his high rank and sovereign power. He trusts none but himself, and is surrounded by numerous enemies, both of his own family and court.

If we judge the conduct of Dost Mohammed Khan as an encourager of commerce and a politician, we must allow him considerable praise, though he is not a character in whom one could place the confidence either of permanent friendship or political alliance. He has killed many chiefs of the country, and deprived many of the priesthood of their estates, after having sworn seven times by the holy soul of Mohammed, and even upon the Koran, which he afterwards said were the leaves of a common book. I am not quite sure whether the necessity of the times or his natural ambition excited him to the murders he has committed. He is very desirous to make himself the sole monarch of Affghanistan, but is in want of money.

Of course, the traveller now knows the Dost much better. The reader is introduced to another personage, who has since been often heard of; for

this was still in 1832 :

The day after our arrival, on the 2d of May, we were delighted by meeting a fellow-traveller, who had overcome the difficulties of the road from Bokhara, after encountering many misfortunes. Mr. Wolff is a zealous missionary, wandering like the apostles of old over foreign countries, for the sake of enlightening the various nations of the earth; but with what success he did not mention. His sole object is to discover the lineal descent of the Jews, and in Affghanistan he had a fertile field for research, as the people themselves trace their genealogy to the tribes of Israel; but in so interesting a tract of country Mr. Wolff did not stop sufficiently long; and after the disasters he met with, it is not to be wondered at if he was anxious to quit so inhospitable a region. Amongst his adventures, he related having been made a slave; but fortunately for him he was not considered of much value, and got released. He next came into the hands of robbers, who took away all his money, and even the clothes from his back. Lastly, he was deprived of his horse by the deep snow of the Hindu Kush, and was compelled to walk naked into Kabul, like the faqirs of India.

Mr. Wolff was very kind to me, especially when I told him that my religion consisted in the worship of one sole Supreme Being. He seemed pleased to hear of

Most of the facts contained in the Journal have been related by Sir Alexander Burnes or Mr. Elphinstone; but we do not remember to have heard of the following feat, or observance :

We ascended a high pass, elevated 11,000 feet above the level of the sea. On our route we passed over a plain where Ali, people say, galloped his horse, and from that time every traveller thinks it a religious duty to follow his example.

What is called religion, is despotically enforced in Bokhara :

June 29.-An early walk led me through the bazaar called Sarafan, where I observed two Mohammedans mounted on camels, guarded by four sepoys, who had only whips in their hands. They were ordered to be scourged by the Qazi for not saying their morning prayers, and for sleeping after the sun was up. This sort of occurrence happens every day at Bokhara, and the punishment is publicly inflicted. Some are chastised for smoking, some for drinking, and others for snuffing: these practices being prohibited by the law of Mohammed. The guilty person, mounted on a camel, calls out in the following manner: "This is the punishment for a person who does not recite his prayers. He who will smoke shall suffer like him; snuffing is the cause of the distress which he endures now patiently."

Yet tobacco is publicly sold in the bazaars. Mohan Lal, whom we should assume to have a critical eye for beauty, and who did not often meet with it, in a rare degree, in the course of his travels, was much struck with the Hebrews of Bokhara :

I passed through the famous street of the Jews, where I scarcely saw a man or a woman devoid of beauty. All of them were handsome, delicate, and attractive. Their eyes were alluring, and their persons enticing, though every one looked half sottish. They were gazing out of the door at those who passed through the street. They are the most delicate of any people I have seen between Delhi and Bokhara. I am sure if any Indian, who is a worshipper of beauty, should come to Bokhara, he would undoubtedly be a victim to the charms of these Jewesses. Their dress is of a curious fashion, calculated to entice the hearts of men. No fewer than 3,000 Jews are said to inhabit Bokhara.

The people of Bokhara are, generally speaking, complaisant, bold, strong, and good riders. They can endure hunger, cold, and fatigue, and travel a distance of ten days' journey in two, never even dismounting from their horses till they have reached their destined place. Their dress is generally two or three cloaks, which cover each other, and white turbans. They tie a scimitar to their waist, ride either horse or ass, and sometimes take their wives up behind them. They never wash themselves with water, but clean themselves with a piece of clay. If any man dares take water, either according to the custom of his own country, or from a regard to cleanliness, he is considered by the Sunnis to be an infidel, or Kafar Qizal Bash. Many of their habits show a gross want of personal purity. They go at the same time to say their prayers, and are said to consider themselves very cleanly and religious men. The women have but little virtue. They are fair, with red cheeks, and have elegant and charming manners, They are covered with

a gown from head to foot, and have a black thin veil, which sometimes they lift up in the streets, and pretend that none have seen them. They bind a white turban upon a handkerchief, which conceals their head, and hangs as far as their waist. The bad women are called jahab or qatah. The present king enforces more strictly than his predecessors the outward observance of morality. The Hindus and Jews of Bokhara are not allowed to mount on horseback, and can tie neither turban, cloths, nor shawls round their waist.

How the "drapers' assistants," and the other enslaved shopkeepers of England, must envy those

of Bokhara !

The shops, which are clean, are generally opened after nine o'clock in the morning, because their owners never come out of their houses till they have finished drinking their tea. The shops are closed at three o'clock at noon, when their masters go in the Registan, and adorn that market by spreading forth neat articles for sale. The large bazaar, which is roofed, has a very striking appearance. The shops, which succeed each other in a straight line, present a splendid sight. They are ornamented with beautiful China-ware and Russian bottles, against which hang large but thin pieces of tin. The sellers are generally handsome boys. The beauty of this bazaar, which was erected by the late king, is beyond my description.

A prophet has no honour in his own country. On his return to Delhi, Mohan Lal was regarded with envy and jealousy; but his English friends continued steady, and he repaired to Calcutta, and was intrusted by the supreme government with a mission to Candahar. He was afterwards sent to Kabul; but, except the journey to Affghanistan, which was attended with some difficulty, nearly all that occurred of any importance during his residence here, is reserved for the forthcoming volume.

built, but very small, and hot, by keeping the windows always shut. I never allowed the windows of my bedroom to be altogether shut, and the curtains were never drawn. England is not so cold as the people pretend. I always wore a thin shirt and white trousers. The rooms where dancing is kept up in private balls are awfully heated. I once fainted in oue of these rooms, in the month of February, while I was sitting and enjoying a dance. I like the climate very much, and it has improved my health. When I was in India, at Ambala, or Lodiana, I had generally attacks of fever, and was always suffering by the appearance of red large spots over my body, causing it to itch and swell, but in England they all disappeared, as it was in Affghanistan, &c. The fogs and smoke of London are the only things which deserve to be complained of. In the country, the air is pure and always delightful.

The father of Sir Alexander Burnes invited the faithful friend of his lamented son to visit him at Montrose. The meeting was affecting. He relates :

I

respected, and with whom I had passed much happy My meeting with the father and mother of one whom time while under his orders, was very exciting on both sides. The tears flowed from the eyes of his parents, when they most affectionately embraced me, who reminded them of their beloved and highly-promising sons, assassinated at the outbreak at Kabul. I delivered them the papers and private journal of Sir A. Burnes, written down to the evening preceding his murder. í was also introduced to Lord Panmure.

On his return from Montrose, Mohan Lal stopped for a short time in Edinburgh, and received all manner of civilities from the old Indians in that city. His portrait was painted by Sir William Allan, and we are not quite sure that it was not, in point of feature, the finest head seen in the last year's Scottish Exhibition of Paintings. Glasgow was afterwards visited, and a trip made to Ireland, of which country the Oriental says

In 1844, Mohan Lal, who had long wished to visit England, was enabled to accomplish that object. He came in a Company's steam frigate Ireland is a beautiful country, and always green, on to Suez, and reached Southampton in safety by Island." The land and the people towards the county which account it has received the name of " the Emerald the usual route. Friends were every where pre- of Sligo are very poor; and it was heart-rending to see pared to receive and welcome him; and he became a the men and women, with large families, walking withsort of pet lion, in particular among those who had out shoes and sufficient clothing in the most piercing lived in India, or who were connected with that cold. The natives of Ireland are hospitable, and I was country. We must confess that his overflowing delighted to present me with a piece of bread and some welcomed in every cottage, and the farmers appeared gratitude fully equals their kindness and hospita-porter; but generally I saw the poor inhabitants living lity. It astonished Mohan Lal to find the Chairman of the East India Company as familiar with the names of the Affghan chiefs as he was himself; but how, sitting in Leadenhall Street, the Directors managed the affairs of all India, and could find time too to load him with civilities, he could not conceive. He admired the Isle of Wight, but thought Portsmouth, and most towns, "dirty," and was bewildered with London, of which, he says,—

The day I arrived in London I was rather puzzled to see the crowds of people, with carriages, carts, and cabs, which cover the face of the wide, long, and clean streets, all illuminated, and presenting to the spectators a rich exhibition of articles in the shops. It is a busy scene, day and night, and it is a matter of great difficulty to find what time the tradesmen have for rest. The scenes, and the gaudy attire of the actors and actresses, in the theatre, will at once bring into the mind of an Asiatic the fabulous tales of the gardens of the fairies. I could not say much in commendation of the beauty or modesty of the females who appear on the stage. However, they attract the attention and respect of the spectators; and some of them have made conquests, and have become wives of noblemen, and associate with ladies of the highest birth. The houses are regularly

entirely on potatoes. Ireland is undoubtedly not in better condition, and is suffering under great distress; therefore, the people unhappily but too reasonably complain.

The ladies have good features, and amiable manners, and might be distinguished from crowds of any other nation. Father Mathew, and Mr. O'Connell, are men of high principles in Ireland. The former has recommended water in preference to wine, and the latter has devoted himself to the welfare of his distressed country

men.

We must own that the account of the residence in England is the most jejune part of the volume ; and Mohan Lal's scrupulosity lest he forget to commemorate any one of those who showed him attention, however amiable in motive, becomes at last ludicrous. When he returned to London, having previously visited the great manufacturing towns, which he found "not very clean," Prince Albert requested his attendance, and the Prince was found "beyond praise." He was also privately presented to the Queen, and invited to a court ball, which raised him to ecstasy :

Noble ladies with charming countenances, and elegant

robes covered with diamonds, joining in the dance, every man writing about India, or Indian affairs, which, although dazzling, yet becomes brighter and follows his own conceit in the spelling of eastern more beautiful when her Majesty, and her royal consort, words, to the manifest confusion or utter discomPrince Albert, take part in the dance. In so large a company, the Queen appeared to me the most graceful fiture of every other class of her Majesty's subin the dance, smiling, and looking now and then gra-jects. If Oriental scholarship can be played off ciously towards her royal husband. I kept my humble eyes unweariedly fixed upon her Majesty and the Prince, while they were dancing, and I read, with inexpressible delight, in their countenances, that they have a deep attachment to each other.

But the main point was yet untouched. A memorial of services was given in to the Directors of the East India Company, and, after due examination, a reward, of unnamed amount, was bestowed, with a promise of more, at an advanced age, and to follow future good services. Upon the whole, we cannot say that this work raises our opinion of the intellect of Mohan Lal; but it confirms all that has been said of his good faith, amiable dispositions,

and rectitude of intention.

While upon this subject, might we humbly suggest the propriety of the Court of Directors, or the supreme government of India, ordering some of the heads of the colleges, or of the other learned bodies connected with them, to issue, under their authority, a small vocabulary, fixing the orthography of Indian proper names, and of the nouns substantive most commonly used. At present,

in nothing else, we are sure to meet with it in some crotchety newfangled way of spelling the Indian words preserved in English narratives. Thus, for example, nabob and sepoy, though both, probably, orthographically wrong, were plain honest terms, clearly understood at home, and which had served their own purpose for at least a century and a half. Now we have these unfortunate words twisted in half-a-dozen different ways, till an English reader is at a loss to know what is meant by them, or what to make of them. But there cannot be six or seven ways of spelling, all equally right; and we would implore that the orthography may, in some way, be at once settled by a cheap authorized publication. We have remarked, that the more obscure the writer of Indian travels or tales, the more crank and affected is his spelling. Mohan Lal is, however, not to be blamed for converting what has so long been the Punjaub into the Panjab, only let that name, and all others, be once for all fixed down-stereotyped in one way or another.

LINES WRITTEN FOR THE CENTENARY OF THE BATTLE OF CULLODEN, APRIL 16, 1846.

BY MRS. CHARLES TINSLEY.

BOLD thoughts and true, bold hearts though few, o'er which shall fall to-day

The shadow of the haunting past, come join me in my lay!

And, while we live, the meed we'll give of praise to each brave heart

That play'd, an hundred years ago, on the earth a noble part.

For a noble thing it was to cling, when his star was waning fast,

To the fortunes of their native Prince, devoted to the last;

And a noble strife it was that life, and name, and fortune, set

On the single chance that wreck'd them all in the dark storm where they met.

It had been no wrong, had it been strong in.numbers as in zeal,

That cause of Scotland's ancient kings with its ranks of heart and steel;
And had they won, full many a sun, through the silent years gone by,
Had seen heroic names shine forth in the blaze of victory.

And shall they die because they lie on the wastes of their renown?
Live there no generous thoughts this day their generous faith to crown?
Shall brave defeat tempt worthless feet on their honour'd dust to tread ?
No, by the soul of Chivalry! Stand forth, ye valiant dead!
Stand forth, and tell, as ye may well, that ye suffer'd not, that day,
One strong resolve, one plighted truth, from your hearts to fall away;
That, side by side, with these ye died beneath the southron spear,
And dauntless shouted back through death,-" On, for the Chevalier !"
Tell how ye met on scaffolds wet with the rich blood shed before,
And firmly there gave utterance to your deathless faith once more,

And boldly paid, through the headsman's blade, for the right ye would not yield
To raise an honest voice and arm in the senate or the field.

Let men cast still what stain they will upon your fallen cause,
Ye noble hearts, ye shall be judged by honour's changeless laws;
Let them that prize self-sacrifice, that know true glory's worth,
Now say if ye deserve no place amongst the great of earth.
Strathallan! thou lift up thy brow, with Balmerino bold;
And thou, Lochiel, O bravest, best! whose name the hills enfold;
In conscious worth stand forward, Perth, with Murray at thy side,
With Ratcliffe, and with Gordon, and the men that nameless died.
And thou, brave man, whose life-blood ran, thy Prince's life to save,
Mackenzie! self-devoted one, rise proudly from thy grave;
And once again, we'll challenge men to search ye one and all,
And prove that here ye hold our hearts in no ignoble thrall.

When earth has said its worst, brave dead, of this it robs ye not,-
The love-born zeal that cheer'd ye through all the darkness of your lot;
And these tame days, in whose cold ways, few warm true feelings thrive;
May sigh for the perish'd chivalry of the gallant Forty-Five.