several times in fresh water, after which they will be ready for their final drying. This is accomplished as before, by laying them between the folds of a soft towel; while the more delicate ones, which are apt to curl in drying, should now be laid within the leaves of a book, until entirely dry. The washing is a very important part of the operation, as, if not thoroughly done, the bouquet will soon become yellow and otherwise discoloured, and thus in the end lose its attractiveness and beauty as a drawing-room ornament. As before stated, it will be advisable to keep the seed-vessels separate from the leaves, and to put them in different bleaching-jars. If placed promiscuously in the same jar, the seed-vessels will become so entangled in the fine network of the leaves, that in the attempt to remove them the latter will be seriously injured. Seed-vessels and flowers require the same treatment in bleaching and washing, only remembering that the coarser seedvessels may need a stronger infusion of the bleaching preparation. A little experience will soon inform the operator as to the exact quantity required for all kinds of leaves and seed-vessels.

The bleaching of the ferns will need some special directions. Many who have succeeded admirably with leaves, have invariably failed in their attempts at preparing these graceful sprays. As they constitute the most brilliant embellishment which can be introduced into a bouquet, such failures are especially mortifying. But, by closely following these simple directions, there will be no difficulty in producing entire sprays of white fern ready to be arranged with other materials for the bouquet.

Having gathered ferns of different varieties during their season of maturity-which is when the seeds are to be found on the back of the leaves— they should be preserved by pressing them between the leaves of a book, there to remain until required for bleaching. When ready for that process, let the operator select such as she desires, and place them carefully in a jar, causing them to curl around the sides rather than with stems downward, in order to avoid breaking the dry and brittle leaves. The smaller separate leaflets may occupy the space in the centre of the jar. Then fill up the jar with warm water, leaving room for the bleaching solution, in the proportion of half a tea-cup full to a pint of water. Cover the jar tightly, and set it in a very warm place. After twenty-four hours, gently pour off the liquid, and replace with fresh, mixed as before. They should remain in the second water about forty-eight hours, when this, in like manner, will require to be changed. In about three or four days the ferns will begin to whiten at the edges, and this whiteness will gradually extend itself over the entire surface of the spray, changing it from a dark brownish green to the spotless purity of a snow-flake. Each one must be carefully taken out as soon as it is seen to be entirely white, without waiting for the whole contents of the jar to be finished.

In the bleaching of a large spray, it sometimes happens that its extremity, perhaps half of the entire length, will become perfectly white, while dark spots remain on the upper or stem end. In such cases it will be safest to take out the branch, and, laying it in a basin of water, cut off the white portion, and return the unfinished remainder to the jar. Afterwards, when

both are ready for the bouquet, the two portions can be neatly united with gum arabic. The process of changing the water will have to be repeated four or five times during the operation of bleaching the same lot of ferns, and the time required to whiten them completely will extend over a period of from one to two weeks. The time depends on the varieties of ferns which may be used, as there is a wide difference in their susceptibilities, some being wholly unfitted for this purpose.

When the sprays are found to be entirely white, they must be taken from the jar with the fingers, always holding them by the stem, and laid in a broad basin of clean warm water, where they should be allowed to remain for several hours. They may be thoroughly rinsed by changing the water several times, but they will not bear handling in the same manner as will the skeleton leaves. When ready to be dried, take one spray by the stem and lay it in a broad dish or basin of water, allowing it to float on the surface; then pass under it a sheet of unsized white paper, and in this way lift it out of the water. The spray will cling to the paper, and assume its natural shape. Should any of the small side leaves become crooked or overlapped, they may be readily straightened by using the point of a pin to spread them out in proper shape upon the paper. To get rid of the superfluous moisture contained in the latter, lay the sheet first on a soft towel for a few minutes. The towel will absorb most of the excess of water. After that, it must be laid between two other sheets of the same unsized white paper, and pressed in a book.

When all the sprays have been thus removed and committed to the keeping of the book, a heavy weight should be placed on it, in order to insure their drying smoothly. If desirable, the drying may be accelerated by changing them, after a day or two, into another book, or into new portions of the first. When entirely dry, if some of the thinner varieties are found to adhere to the paper, they may be loosened by pressing the thumb-nail on the under side of the paper. It is better, however, even after they are thoroughly pressed and dry, to keep them shut up in a book until wanted for the bouquet, as they have a tendency to curl when exposed to the air.

ARRANGING THE BOUQUETS.

Having thus completed the different processes required for the production of the Phantom Bouquet, with boxes well filled with a complete assortment of white and perfect leaves, seed-vessels, and flowers, the artist comes now to the final operation of combining them into tasteful groups or bouquets, under glass cases or shades. These will be found indispensable to the permanent preservation of what otherwise would be a fleeting beauty. We may suppose that such a shade, of perfectly white glass, with stand to receive it, has been provided.

The first thing required will be to form a cushion, either of blue or black velvet, these colours being found most effectively to contrast with the white group to be placed upon them. The stand, of walnut or enamel, should have a groove upon its surface, inside of the edge, into which the shade will drop freely. Having cut the velvet of the proper size and shape,

allowing for the necessary stuffing, the cushion may be prepared by laying raw or carded cotton on the bottom of the stand, raising it rather higher in the centre, and temporarily securing the circular piece of velvet by means of four tacks on the four opposite sides, thus equally dividing the whole into four parts; the edge may then be firmly and neatly fastened round by gluing, and pressing with a blunt-pointed instrument, until it acquires a proper shape, when the tacks may be removed.

The operator will next require some white gum arabic, dissolved in water so as to be very thick; and the first step preparatory to the arrangement will be that of supplying stems to such of the leaves as may have lost them in the process of maceration. For this purpose some operators use the old stems of other plants, which have been bleached expressly for use as substitutes, while others prefer white wire covered with paper; but, after trial of both these expedients, we give the preference to something more simple, and which possesses the additional advantage of being always within reach, as well as being less liable to become discoloured by age.

Take the common white crochet spool cotton and coarse sizes of sewing thread, to be found in every lady's work-basket, and stiffen them by wetting well with gum arabic. When dry and stiff, stems of the required length can be prepared by gumming neatly to the under side of the leaf, allowing the new stem to extend some distance along the central rib or backbone of the leaf. If done neatly it will be difficult to detect the substitute. These stems can be left about two inches long, which will be sufficient to admit of joining to form branches, &c., and can of course be cut off if found to be too long. Care should be taken to regulate the size of the thread used by the requirements of the leaf; a large leaf, with thick mid-rib, calling for a thick and substantial stem, while a delicate leaf, like the Ivy, needs a finer

one.

The Ivy leaf should always, if possible, be grouped so as to form wreaths, as nearly as may be in accordance with its natural habit of growth, the smaller leaves being placed at the end of the spray.

Having prepared the stems, the grouping may be gracefully done (if the bouquet is to be placed under a low broad shade) by fastening the stems securely with a little of the thick gum, into a hole made in the centre of the cushion, in such a way as to allow them to bend over slightly, using the large leaves of the Magnolia species as a beginning, and filling in with smaller leaves of other varieties. When a taller shade is to be used, this plan will not answer so well, as it is desirable to bring the group higher up, so as to fill the shade. A piece of white silk-wrapped bonnet wire will answer as a foundation, the upper end being covered with a small piece of white wax.

The leaves may then be grouped around the wire, and tied with white sewing cotton, placing the smaller or medium-sized leaves at the top, and adding the larger ones for the middle of the bouquet. These last will then droop over gracefully when the shade is placed over them, and the seedvessels and ferns, which are more effective when arranged in groups on the velvet cushion, will be seen plainly through the lace-like curtain. When

the central stem of wire has been covered about two-thirds of its length, gum the lower end and insert it firmly into the base, having punched an opening through the cushion, reaching down into the wood itself; this will hold it entirely firm. One of the white seed-vessels of the Balsam Apple forms an effective vase-like receptacle, and when used, the wire may be passed through it, before being gummed, into the stand. The group thus fastened should reach, in the centre, to within three inches of the top of the glass, the leaves of course rising higher as they curve upward from the stem. There should now be prepared a few choice sprays of leaves and seed-vessels, or perhaps a group of ferns, and fastened into the cavity thus created, so as to crown the whole and give it an artistic finish.

On no account should large and heavy seed-vessels or opaque objects be placed near the top of the bunch. We have seen many specimens made by beginners, in which Stramonium burrs were conspicuous among delicate leaves at the summit of the bouquet. Of course this manner of arranging them detracts considerably from the light and airy appearance of the whole; and as the burrs soon become discoloured, the little original beauty of such productions will soon be gone, the coarse brown burrs becoming an unsightly blemish, which nothing but their removal from the bouquet can repair.

As a general rule, large sprays of fern look better and wear better when placed near the bottom, or directly on the velvet, as they are disposed to curl, especially if placed in the bouquet before they are perfectly dry. All delicate seed-vessels, and the beautiful flowers of the Hydrangea, show to great advantage on the raised cushion, while the large leaves occupy the centre of the group. When finished, a piece of chenille around the outer base of the shade will serve the double purpose of ornament and use, as a protection from dust. On no account should the shade be fastened down, as the contraction and expansion caused by changes of temperature will certainly crack the glass if it be glued fast.

Another and newer style is the black velvet cross, with cushion of the same colour round the base, with wreaths or vines of small leaves-the smallest to be had-entwined around it. The effect of this arrangement is admirable, as it shows with great advantage the beautiful leaves of the Ivy, the Deutzia, the Wisteria, the Bignonia, and the Silver Poplar, as they are displayed upon the dark-coloured background. A wooden cross, of the height and proportions required, covered neatly with velvet, should be firmly glued into the wooden base, and the white vines formed of the stiffened crochet cotton-the little stems which are to connect the leaves with the vine being made of the finer thread. The exercise of a nice taste, with some little mechanical dexterity, are all that will be required to produce a very happy effect. A few leaves, ferns, and small seed-vessels, grouped around the base, complete the arrangement.

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WORK.

From a very early period the skill of Englishwomen with the needle made their work known and highly valued by other nations. English embroidery, consistently enough called Opus Anglicanum, won from Pope Innocent IV., in 1246, the following exclamation: Truly, England is our garden of delight; in sooth, it is a well inexhaustible; and where there is great abundance, from thence much may be extracted." And his Holiness dispatched official letters to nearly all the abbots of the Cistercian order in England, and urged them to procure for his choir, for nothing if they could accomplish it, or at any sum if they must purchase them, "things so estimable." They were, of course, embroidered church vestments.

Our women still possess much graceful skill with the needle, though old people occasionally express a fear lest that feminine accomplishment should be neglected in the more out-of-door life of the present generation. We think they need not fear it, there are so many dull winter days and long fireside evenings in which the needle is the chief resource of the English girl. In our HOME BOOK we offer her some little aid in the use of the needle, by presenting her with new patterns from the work-room of the best needlewoman of our accomplished age, and with some few less pretentious suggestions by friends. The patterns, by Mrs. Mee, are quite new, and, being furnished expressly for the HOME BOOK, will be found nowhere else.

PINCUSHIONS FOR THE TOILETTE.

No. 1.-Make a round pincushion, with a hollow in the middle of it large enough to hold a small tumbler. Paste a firm piece of cardboard at the bottom of it. Then make a cover of muslin over pink silk, leaving a hole just over the hollow in the middle of the pincushion for a tiny glass, which you must buy to fit it, and which, when the pincushion is on the toilette table, must be filled with a bouquet of delicate flowers. A lace frill should be sewn round the edge of the pincushion, to hang to the bottom of it. No. 2.-A small square deal box, lined with pink silk, and covered externally with the same. The inside lining should be quilted on flannel; the outside covered first with muslin, and then with a deep lace frill. Make a pincushion on the lid, cover it with pink silk and spotted muslin, and edge it all round with pink silk ribbon rucheing.

These pincushion boxes are very convenient on the toilette table.

PATTERN FOR A SOFA CUSHION IN APPLIQUÉ.

Make a pillow-case of coarse brown linen, about -yard square; stuff it well with the light wool proper for cushions, which you can get at any fancy shop, and take care to make it firm and of good shape. Take a piece of rich blue silk or cloth, and cut it the size of the two sides of your cushion, allowing for a turning-in at the edges.