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ma'am, they're all gone now. This, it must hundred people on at racing pace towards be confessed, was rather a ‘sell' for the lady; however, the fact being undeniable, all she
that mad, prosperous, warm-hearted could do under the circumstances was to say
oppressed nationality of Paddyland, that it was a very good thing she had got rid
whose faint blue mountains you may of them, and that she was very glad of it.” see from the top of that mountain before
And so we take leave of Mr. Simeon, with only one regret-that his charming
You will be kind enough to take off book is not longer. -Thescene changes;
your shoes, and, putting them in your we are in the city again. The “dusty
pocket, follow the guide up over the cliff; roar” (which we claim to be an equally and, if you are a nervous man, keep your correct expression as the American one
eye on the guide's back, feeling every of “blue thunder") bursts on our ears
step as you go, and not looking at the again. Shall we take another excursion ?
ghastly blue lake which you see beVery well. We beg to introduce you
tween your legs five hundred feet to Mr. Cliffe, who we can promise you
below. Having at the risk of your neck will take you a very pleasant excursion
gathered Rhodiola rosea, Mecanopsis indeed.
Cambrica, and—as we affirm, though Presto! we are soon on the ground.
corrected by authorities—that rare little Here is a change indeed.
fern Woodsia hyperborea, pull on your
An awful grey wilderness of tumbled stone, and
shoes again, and, sloping down through scanty yellow grass. A black deep lake,
Cwm Fynnon, come into the great road. with here and there a sullen gleam of
Then, casting one glance down the rock light across its surface, where some flaw
walls of the pass of Llanberis, turn along
the little mine road at Gorphwysfa, of wind strikes down a cleft in the black mountain, which hangs all around a
and wind along through the mountain giant curtain against the sun. Before
solitude, till wild glorious Llydaw us, scarce a quarter of a mile off, is
spreads his broad calm sheet of green a perpendicular cliff, nine hundred feet
water before you, and the Wydfa, the high, deep in whose side is riven a
highest peak of Snowdon, throws up his black chasm, from which a slender tor
black ribbed peak among the flying
clouds. rent of water, chafing among the fallen boulders, awakens the only sound in this
To many pleasant places will Mr.
Cliffe take you. terrible solitude, and makes the grim
At one time you will silence around the more perceptible.
stand blinded and stunned under the This is Llyn Idwal, in Carnarvonshire,
falls of the Llugwy, or Conway, where where Prince Idwal was pushed into the
the green water comes spouting through water by his cruel uncle—a legend
a thousand arteries, and makes the equalling in authenticity that of the more
summer leaves quiver with the shock. generally received and accredited one of
At another, on lonely Llyn Adar, Willikins. What a place for a ghost !
where the breeding gulls cackle and Hush, did you hear that? What was
bark on their solitary island through that wild shriek that came faintly echo
the long summer day.
Over wastes of ing back from the cliff, followed by a
tumbled stone, over dizzy precipices by sound like distant thunder ? Was that lonely mountain pools. But wherever
you go with him, I think you will find “Young Idwal's drowning cry,” him a pleasant intelligent companion, as spoken of by the poet Gray, in the
with a very good power of describing Bard ?" No, my dear sir; it was only
I think, as he says on his the Holyhead express going through the
title-page, that he has Britannia tubular bridge, ten miles to “Llygad a all weled natur, the north there, carrying a couple of
Calon a all deimlo natur,
Mr. Cliffe has given us a “crib” to this beautiful verse. We shall not from one of the brokers in Quebec at follow his example, being of opinion the cost of about a pound a day; which that the reckless habit of allowing literal covers the wages and provisions for the translations to great classical works has crew, the owner acting as skipper. And, gone far to ruin all real scholarship if you pursue this plan, as soon as you amongst us.
are encamped on the river you mean to But we must say good-bye to Mr. fish, you can send your vessel away for Cliffe in his turn, and his Welsh scenery, fresh provisions. You must lay in a for we have to go further afield still good stock of provisions to start with, Sir James Alexander takes us away to an awful array of servants, a couple or Canada, and gives us a large book on 80 of canoes, tents, beds, blankets, &c.; the salmon fishing there-edited by Sir and when you have got all these things James, but apparently written by an together, have beat in over the river bar, Irish clergyman—which contains a great have disembarked and lit your fires, deal of information on a subject but pitched your tents and had your supper, little known. It has often surprised then, if you are human, you will begin us that summer fishing-expeditions to to wish you had died in infancy, or had Canada were not oftener made: this
stayed safe in Quebec, or Jericho, or book appears in some measure to account anywhere else, instead of coming after for it. The difficulties in getting at the these miserable salmon. For the torture water are great; the hardships under- of the flies and mosquitos exceeds human gone are very severe; and the sport, we belief. Next to the Orinoco, Canada suggest, by no means what it should be, bears the palm against the world for the considering the expense incurred.
plague of flies. Listen to this :The salmon rivers of Lower Canada all flow in on the northern shore of the
“The voice was the voice of our friend, but
the face was the face of a negro in convulsions. St. Lawrence, at points extending from
To account for this, it may be well to state Quebec to Labrador, a distance of 500 that the assault of the black fly is generally miles. These are the only streams sudden and unexpected; that the first indicawhich produce salmon in any quantity.
tion you have of his presence is the running
of a stream of blood over some part of your Those of Upper Canada are, like those
face, which soon hardens there. These assaults of the United States, utterly ruined by being renewed ad infinitum, soon render it the insane stupidity of the millers, in difficult for his nearest and dearest female not leaving steps for the salmon, and by
relation to recognise him. The effect during the various slaughterous exterminating
the night following an attack of this kind
is dreadful. Every bite swells to the size of poaching villanies which are carried on.
a filbert; every bite itches like a burn and Indeed, salmon appear to be rarities in agonizes like a scald—and if you scratch it Upper Canada, while the United States only adds to your anguish. The whole head
swells, particularly the glandular and cellular are supplied from Lower Canada. The
part, behind and under the ears, the upper rivers we speak of are on the Hudson and lower eyelids, so as in many cases to proBay territory; and it is the opinion of duce inability to see. The poison is imbibed Dr. Adamson, in his able paper read to
and circulated through the whole frame, prothe Canadian Institute, that if the pro
ducing fever, thirst, heat, restlessness, and tection of the Hudson's Bay Company
despondency.” were withdrawn for one year, the salmon Really we must beg leave to doubt would be extinct in Canada.
whether the best salmon-fishing in the The plan for the salmon fisher in world is worth having under such cirCanada is as follows :—To go fishing at cumstances, although we may consider all, you must either own a yacht or hire salmon-fishing to stand first among all a schooner. A schooner may be hired sports. But, with regard to what amount
of sport one may expect, we give an * Salmon Fishing in Canada. By a Resident.
abstract of some days' fishing in the Edited by Colonel Sir James E. Alexander, K. H. With Illustrations. Two vols. Long.
Godbout, which may be considered as man & Co.
about the ne plus ultra of what any reasonable man may expect. The fishing whom, unless I mistake, we heard as a on the Godbout is probably greatly de- volunteer in the Indian mutiny), is to teriorated since the time we speak of, be our guide. Let us suppose him to 1853.
possess a magic carpet. We will seat
ourselves on it along with him, and then " 7th June, 2 rods, nothing. 12th, 2 rods, 2 fish (5 days blank, you perceive). 13th,
up and away, to where the everlasting 3 rods, 2 fish. 14th, 3 rods, 3 fish. 15th, snow lies deep over pass and summit. 3 rods, 3 fish. 16th, 3 rods, 6 fish. 17th, Where have we got to now? To the 2 rods, 5 fish. 18th, 2 rods, 3 fish. 19th, Alps? The Alps !
Alps! The Alps! Mont Blanc, the 2 rods, 6 fish. 20th, 4 rods, 6 fish. 21st,
monarch of mountains, lies an insigni. 21st, 2 rods, 2 fish. 22d, 4 rods, 4 fish.
And 23d, 4 rods, 3 salmon, and a great many sea
ficant peak 3,000 feet below us. trout. 24th, 2 rods killed 13 salmon.”
yet overhead the grim crystalline Ai
guilles range up peak over peak in the No more account of specific days' deep blue firmament, like lofty piled fishing is given, but it is stated that
thunder-clouds upon a summer's eventhe party remained till the 11th July, ing. We are among the Ghàts of the “ killing four, six, ten, eleven, and Himalaya ! thirteen fish every day.” We purposely And what is Mr. Dunlop doing up quote the exact words of the book, be- here, in the name of goodness? Well, cause for seventeen days only five days he is going to shoot a Bunchowr. If seem accounted for. There is no doubt
you are not above asking what a Bunthat this is good sport enough ; but this chowr is, we will inform you that a was considered exceptional in 1853. So, Bunchowr, as far as we can discover, is according to Dr. Adamson, the salmon
the grandfather of all Buffalo bulls, fishing in Canada should be in a poor with a sheepskin mat nailed on his way now.
stern instead of a tail. Add to this, The book before us has considerable
that he is desperately shy, and horribly merits, but also great defects. It is vicious, and that he has to be hunted too excursive. It is hard to pick the on foot, up to your knees in snow, and wheat (of which there is really plenty) you will get some idea of what Bunfrom the “chaff,” of which there is con- chowr shooting in the Himalayas is siderably too much, and that not of the like. best quality. One thing more about it Mr. Dunlop is an Indian sportsman ; is remarkable,—the great power the and of all Indian sportsmen he has author seems to have of writing comic written the pleasantest, most readable poetry. The lay of “ Sir Joram à book. Putting Tennent's “Ceylon” out Burton," at page 34, is quite worthy of of the question, we have met no book Barham himself. And the verses on superior; a bold assertion, but one we "Navigation," at page 212, are very far will stand by. It is, like all good books, above the average of that sort of com- too short, but should be read by every position. We cannot conceal from man who cares not only for natural ourselves that the Appendix, by Dr. history, but for the little queer odds Adamson, Mr. Henry, and Sir James and ends of society and manners in Alexander himself, contains the most that furthest limit of the great empire. valuable information ; but the book itself He begins with the elephants. He is very readable, and there is also con- takes us along the great boulder precisiderable humour to be found in the pices of the Sewalik (the débris, we prevignettes.
sume, of the great mountains above), One more excursion, reader, before and shows us the tracks where the wild we part. We are going very very far elephants have passed through the jungle a-field this time. Mr. Dunlop, C.B. (of in single file among the rank grass up,
1“Hunting in the Himalayas. With notices Tracks in eternal snow. By R. H. W. Dunlop, of Customs and Countries, from the Elephant C.B., B.C.S., F.R.G.S., late Superintendent of Haunts of the Dehra Doon to the Bunchowr the Dehra Doon." Bentley.
to some lonely gully, and then have This reminds one, in its absurd pomspread out to feed, ripping the boughs posity, of the story told by the talented and the bark from the trees, in herds authoress of “Letters from Caleutta.” sometimes seventy strong.
Then he She was jumping her new-born baby gives us his experience of shooting ele- up and down, and saying, "Baby, why phants, which, in the Doon, where you don't you speak to me?" when her have to go after them on foot, appears
moonshee approached her with a salaam, very ticklish work indeed. The best and said solemnly, “ Madam, it is my plan seems to be, to get as near your duty to inform you that that child elephant as possible, to take aim, to cannot, as yet, speak. He will not shut your eyes and blaze away, and speak, madam, till he is two years old then, as a Londoner would say, to
or more.” “ hook it” for your bare life. If you Mr. Dunlop gives us two chapters on are so fortunate as not to be overtaken elephants, both highly interesting, the and pounded into little bits by the in- second of which is devoted to the subfuriated animal, you may, after a con- ject of hunting and killing that smallsiderable period, venture cautiously to brained but sagacious brute. He uses return, and pick up your bird. In a double rifle, sixteen bore, weighing confirmation of this, Mr. Dunlop tells nineteen pounds, and carrying as much us :
as eight drams of powder. With this
handy little toy-just the sort of thing "I had determined to go down the most precipitous bank I could find, if my shot did
to learn one's position drill with—he not prove fatal, and started back directly I fires at the centre of an imaginary line, had 'fired to where my Ghoorka Shikaree was drawn from the orifice of the ear to the standing, within thirty paces of us. A tre
eye, which will exactly penetrate the mendous crashing of trees followed the sound of my gun, and I caught sight of the Brinjara,
brain,—“the only spot a sportsman can who had just been giving me such valorous “ save his life by, when the elephant counsels, flying across country in a horrible charges him, protecting the brain by fright."
curling up the trunk.” Miss thát, Decidedly wise on the part of the
and you will find your name in the first
column of the l'imes pretty quickly. Brinjara !
But, to conclude this subject, we, from “As I was unpursued, I returned, and saw all we have read about elephant-hunting, the elephant lying dead a little way down the
would give this piece of advice to those bank.”
who intend to practise it-Unless you A commissariat elephant with whom happen to have the nerve of one man Mr. Dunlop was acquainted, took it out of fifty-Stay at home. into its head to kill an old woman as Hush ! There is a sound abroad she was filling her pitcher at the water- upon the night-wind besides the gentle course, Much as we may regret the rustling of the topmost forest boughs,accident to the poor old body, we must a deep reverberating moan, low rolling be forgiven in roaring with laughter at like the sound of distant guns, which the following letter, in which the cir- causes the Europeans to take their cumstance was reported to him by one cigars from their mouths and look at of his native writers, who prided him. one another, and the native servants to self on the correctness of his English. converse in frightened whispers. A He gives it pure et simple.
royal tiger is abroad in the jungle, and * Honoured Sir,
the forest is hushed before the majesty " This morning the elephant of Major R
of his wrath! by sudden motion of snout and foot, kill one
We should conceive that the sound old woman. Instant fear fall on the inhabi. made by the great carnivorous animals, tants.
when in search of food, must be one of “Sir, “Your most obedient Servant,
the finest things in nature. We alas ! " MADAR Bux." have only heard it from behind prison
bars ; yet even there the snarl of the “ Cocks and hens,” too, under the native hungry“ painter," like the brattling of name of Moorghee, are very abundant, some wild war drum, moves one's blood though treated with contempt; while strangely. Mr. Dunlop has been face to the natives use to hawk at curlew and face with the tigress in her lair, as have herons with the “ baz," and with the many other of our Indian officers; but “ behree" at peacocks, hares, and even Mr. Dunlop, unlike some of our Indian antelope. writers, gives us a really graphic idea of The fish in this part of the world what the situation must be like. He must be spoken of with reverence. singularly confirms a remark we made The “Musheer”- the salmon of the just now, when speaking of Mr. Simeon's conntry—is caught with spinning tackle. book,—that the evidence of uneducated A ten-pounder is nothing. He runs up persons must be taken with caution. to 80 and 100 pounds weight. He is
a mountain-fish, living in the highly
aërated waters among the rocks, never “At the first sharp turn in the course of the trench, an animal rose out of it, and stood
descending to the plains. Your tackle for a second on the opposite bank, within sixty
must be strong, for the villain "Gowch," yards of our line. I heard one of R- -'8 or fresh-water shark, whose weight is Ghoorkas deliberately pronounce the animal often 120 pounds, lies in wait for the before us to be a calf, carelessly assuming it to be that which he thought most likely to be
unwary angler, and causes him to swear met with on the spot, though in truth a full
by taking his bait, playing much the grown tigress.”
same game as a five-pound pike does
with a fine set of gut tackle. His aecount of the startling appear- Before taking us away to the hills, ance of a tiger in the very middle of Mr. Dunlop tells us a sad story, which the fair at Hurdwar in 1855,-in the casts a gloom over an otherwise pleamiddle of a crowd of from two to three sant chapter, and is especially worthy millions of people,—is most graphically of note, as illustrating military life in told, and illustrated by an excellent India, and for the wise remarks he sketch of Mr. Wolf's. But we must makes on the 'necessity of providing pass on to notice shortly the other parts amusement for the men, in the hot, of the book, which treat of subjects less dismal, pestilential plains. known to the European reader.
the horror of our soldiers at The Doon is a tract of country lying the dull detestable misery of their about 100 miles north of Meerut; situation, that it became the habit to bounded east and west by the heads of commit some trifling assault on the Jumna (the Delhi river) and the officer, in order to get transported to Ganges, north by the rapidly-rising Australia. The thing must be stopped, ranges of the Himalaya, and south by and orders went forth that the next the plains. Lying at the foot of the man who did it should die! Shortly hills, it seems to be composed of the after, a common soldier, an utter stranger débris of the great mountains above- to the officer, threw his cap at an the highest ranges in the planet,—and assistant-surgeon, who was driving into consists of clay and boulders. It is Meerut, with no earthly object but to covered with jungle and forest, and be transported. He was condemned swarms with game. From hence Mr. to death, and ordered for execution, in Dunlop, following the heads of the spite of the surgeon's intercession. The Ganges, crossed into Thibet, over a pass law is that, should the man not be 18,000 feet above the sea, to the heads found dead after the volley is delivered, of the Sutledge, killing a vast quantity the sergeant shall give him the coupand variety of game on his way, - de-grace. On this occasion, when the bah, the largest of Indian deer, cheetul, rattle of the rifles died away, the man hog-deer, para, porcupine, "pig," pea- was still kneeling, blindfold, by his cocks, partridges, quail, and floriken. coffin, unhurt. A terrible alternative