CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

CHURCH FESTIVALS AT ATHENS.

vii

Silent Streets.-The Twelve Gospels.-Persecution of the Jews.-

Good Friday at St. Irene's.-The Epitaphion.-A Torchlight Proces-

sion.-Kyrie Eleyson.-Easter Dawn.-Christos Aneste.-The Sec-

ond Anastasis.-Dances at the Temple of Theseus.-The Romaica.

-Blessing the Sea.-Feast of the Three Hierarchs.-Interior of a

Church. Celebration of the Mass.-Standing in Worship. Page 128

CHAPTER XI.

THREE DAYS IN ARGOLIS.

Passports.-Leaving Piræus.-A Party on Deck.-A Representative

Electioneering.-Island of Hydra.-The Home of Liberty.-Nauplia

from the Bay.-The Lernian Hydra.-Streets of Nauplia.-Plain of

Argos.-Wall of Tiryns.-Description by Pausanias.-Mycena.-The

Treasury of Atreus.-Acropolis of Mycena.-Gate of Lions.-Its

History.-A Dish of Snails.-Beggars at Argos.-Theatre in the

Rock.-Market-place of Argos.-Murder of Capo d'Istria.-Pass of

Trœtus.-Rout of Drami Ali.-A Rainy Morning.-The Temple of

Nemea.-Khan of Courtessa.-Shepherds' Huts.-The Inn at Cor-

inth.-The Acrocorinthus.-St. Paul at Corinth.—The Isthmus. 137

CHAPTER XII.

ÆGINA AND EPIDAURUS.

Mode of Traveling.-Selection of a Guide.-Delay at Piræus.-Be-

calmed on the Saronic Gulf.-Devotions of the Sailors.-The Island

of Ægina.-Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius.-Sail to Epidaurus.—

Declaration of Independence.-Ruins of Epidaurus.—Nicholas and

the Agoyates. Hiero of Æsculapius.—An Ancient Watering-place.

-Nauplia..........

CHAPTER XIII.

MANTINEA-TRIPOLITZA-SPARTA.

160

The Argolic Plain.-Routes into Arcadia.-A Katavothron.-Hysia.-

Plain of Mantinea.-Ruins of the Wall.-Battles at Mantinea.-Small-

ness of Grecian States.-Fair at Tripolitza.-A Murderous Assault.—

Tegea.-A Country Papas.-Tardy Vegetation.-Battle-field of Sella-

sia.-Vourlia.--A Portable Cradle.-Site of Ancient Sparta.-Roman

Ruins.-Modern Sparta.-A Sarcophagus.-Interior of a Khan... 173

CHAPTER XIV.

MEGALOPOLIS AND MESSENE.

Ride to "The Great City."-The Theatre.-Inquisitive Scholars.-Mo-

reote Shepherds.-Messenian Plain.-Mount Ithome.-Struggles of

Freedom.-Policy of Epaminondas.-Monastery of Vurcano.-Ruins

of Messene. The Great Gate.-Rustic Wonderment.-Dragoi.. 192、

CHAPTER XV.

PHIGALEA, OLYMPIA, AND ARCADIA.

Phigalea. The Sirocco.-Temple of Apollo Epicurius.—Andritzena.—

Banks of the Alpheus.-Tributaries of the Alpheus.-Vale of Olym-

pia.-Temple of Jupiter.-Ride to Lala.-A Scene in the Revolu-

tion. An Afternoon at Tripotamo.-Psophis. - A New Route.-

Village Discussion.-Clitor.-Ancient Coins.-Arcadian Shepherds.

-Primitive Ploughs.-Greek Oaths.-Outlet of Lake Pheneus.-A

Serious Mishap.-The Monastery of Phonia...

CHAPTER XVI.

STYX, MEGASPELION, AND VOSTITZA.

Page 203

A Costly Shrine.-A Monk's Views of Philosophy.-The Village of

Solos.-Patriotic Exploits.-A primitive Lamp.-The "River Styx."

-Its mysterious Properties.-View of the Corinthian Gulf.-Birth-

place of the Revolution.-Calavryta.-Cross-questioning.-Monas-

tery of Megaspelion.-The Monks.-St. Luke as a Sculptor.-The

Wine-cellar.-Library.-History of Megaspelion.-Ride to Vostitza.

-Bargaining for a Boat...

CHAPTER XVII.

DELPHI-PARNASSUS-CHERONEA.

218

Crossing the Corinthian Gulf.-Scala of Salona.-Crissa.-Necropolis

of Delphi.-Village of Castri.-Castalian Fount.-Oracle of Apollo.

---Ascent of Mount Parnassus.-Corycian Cave.—A Disappointment.

- Schiste.-Daulis.- Panopeus. - Battle-ground of Charonea. -

Tumulus and Colossal Lion.-Population of Greece.-Lebadea or

Livadia.-Cave of Trophonius.-Monastery of Scripu-Treasury of

Minyas.—Acropolis of Orchomenus.—Lake Copais.—Victory of the

Catalans.-A "Kake Scala."-Ruins of Abæ.....

CHAPTER XVIII.

THERMOPYLE AND EUBA.

232

Costume of the Women at Exarcho.-Hyampolis.-Masonry of the

Ancients.-Elatea.-Seizure of Elatea by Philip.-Consternation at

Athens.-The Papas at Pundonitza.-Pass of Thermopyla.-Change

of Physical Aspect.-The Hot Springs.-Thessaly Phthiotis.-Lamia

or Zeitun.-Robbers.-Their Inroad into Rachi.-Tortures.-Larissa

Cremaste.-Detention by a Health-officer.-Crossing to Eubœa.-

Oreos or Histiæa.-Xerochori.-Fine Scenery.-An Englishman's

Estate. Insecurity.-Traveling in Euboea.-Chalcis.-Discovery of

Ancient Armor

249

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

THEBES AND ELEUSIS.

ix

Chalcis under Venetian Rule.-Euripus.-Bridge.-An Ancient Greek

Road.-Site of Aulis.-Plain of the Asopus.-Tanagra.-Thebes.-

Theban Plain.-Site of Thespiæ.-Fountain of Aganippe.-Battle-field

of Leuctra.-Platæa.-Battle-ground.-Ascent of Mount Citharon.

-Acropolis of Enoe.-Interior of a Tower.-Ancient Fortifications.

-Hellenic Tower.-Village and Acropolis of Eleusis.-The Sacred

Way.-Monastery of Daphne.-Return to Athens..... Page 268

CHAPTER XX.

RAMBLES IN ATTICA.

...........

Excursion to Marathon.-Cephisia.-Pass of Deceleia.-Plain of Mara-

thon.-Cynosura.-Funeral Mound.-Battle-ground.-Numbers en-

gaged.-Temple of Minerva Hellotis.-Marathona.-Return.-Ex-

cursion to Sunium.-Fountains built by the Road-side.-Silver Mines

of Mount Laurium.-Temple of Minerva at Sunium.-Excursion to

Phyle.-Cephissus. - Colonos.-Calyvia of Khassia. - Fortress of

Phyle.-View of Athens.-Thrasybulus at Phyle.-Excursion to the

Marble Quarries of Pentelicus.-Village of Calandri.-The Arbutus.

-Quarries.-Inclined Plane.-Prospect from the Summit of Mount

Pentelicus.-Mount Hymettus.-A Warrior Abbot.-Honey of Hy-

mettus.-Straits of Salamis.-Battle of Salamis

CHAPTER XXI.

........

THE MODERN GREEK LANGUAGE.

283

Close Resemblance to the Ancient.-Its Disadvantage in Comparison

with other modern Languages.-Sounds of its Consonants and Diph-

thongs.-Pronounced according to Accent.-Grammatical Changes.

-Introduction of Words from Foreign Tongues.-Reaction within

the present Century.-Influence of the University, the Government,

and the Press.-Number of Newspapers and Periodicals at Ath-

307

ens

-

CHAPTER XXII.

THE MODERN GREEK LITERATURE.

Low Condition of Greece in the Last Century.-A Revival of Learn-
ing. New Schools.-A Religious Literature. - Remarks of Lord
Byron.- "Cathreptes Gynaicon."-Adamantius Coray.His Early
Life.-Taught by Bernard Keun.-Removes to France.-Translates
Strabo. Various Publications.-His Prolegomena.-Papa Trechas.
-Religious Views of Coray. - Translates the "Advice of Three
Bishops."-Considers the Revolution premature.-Neophytus Doukas.
-His Views in respect to the Modern Greek, and those of Coray.—
Publications of Doukas.-Panagiotes Soutsos.-Alexander Soutsos.-

-

Rangabes.-Salomos.-Coumanoudes.-Lyric Poems of Christopou-

los.--Neophytus Bambas.-Translation of the Bible.-A Text-book

in the Schools.-Professor Asopius.-A. Radinos.-Antiquities.-Pit-

takes.-Archæological Society.-Historical Studies.-Germanos.—

Speliades. Tricoupes.-Mamoukas.—Mediæval History. - Oriental

Researches.-Demetrius Galanos.-A Greek Book in Roman Char-

acters.Pharmakides. -Influence of the Learned Professions.-

Speech of Saripolos.-Greek Lexicography.....

CHAPTER XXIII.

BALLAD POETRY.

Page 313

Popular Songs of Greece.—Their Value.-Very short-lived.—Subjects

of Ballads.-Principles of Greek Poetry.-The Kleftic Songs.-His-

tory and Manners of the Klefts.—Their Head-quarters.—Incidents

referred to in the Ballads.-Lament of a Wounded Kleft.-Death of

Metros.—Parallelisms.—Song of Boucovallas.-The Panegyri.—Songs

of the Plains. On special Occasions.-At Parting.-At a Wedding.

-Morologia, or Laments.-Religious Poems.-Remains of Popular

Superstitions...

CHAPTER XXIV.

TRIAL OF DR. KING.

343

A Trial appointed.-Distribution of printed Handbills.-Appearance

of the Court-room.-Trial not by Jury.-Witnesses for the Prosecu-

tion.-Vagueness of the Testimony.-Its Irrelevancy.-Partiality of

the Court.-Speech of the King's Attorney.—Counsel for the Ac-

cused.-Dr. King not allowed to defend himself.-Decision.-Sen-

tence of Imprisonment and Banishment. - Excitement after the

Trial.-Crafty Delay of the King's Attorney.-Appeal to the Areop-

agus.-Its Decision.-Dr. King protests.-Opinions of the Press of

Athens.-Other Grievances.-Mission of Mr. Marsh.-Evasive Policy

of the Court.-The Greek Government finally yields.-Results of the

Trial.........

CHAPTER XXV.

355

DEPARTURE FROM ATHENS SYRIA-CORFU.

Piræus.-Daughter of Marco Bozzaris.-Mr. Contostaulos.-Manufac-

ture of Silk.-The "Maid of Athens."-Remains of Piræus.-Altar

of the "Unknown God."-Antipathy of Greeks to public Executions.

-Hermopolis, or Syra.-Its Commerce.-Schools of Rev. Mr. Hild-

ner.- Bay of Navarino. --Zante.-Corfu.-Shrine of St. Spyridon.

A reputed Miracle. — Mission among the Jews. - Ancient Cor-

cyra.-Ionian Confederation.—Italian Language supplanted by the

Greek.........

-

368

HOROLOGIUM OF ANDRONICUS CYRRHESTES
RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF THE OLYMPIAN JOVE..

68

76

UNIVERSITY OF OTHO AT ATHENS...

77

THE ACROPOLIS RESTORED

87

THE ACROPOLIS, FROM THE HILL OF THE MUSEUM..

88