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Çorinthian pillars; the basso relievos which adorn the tomb of Frederic II are exquisite pieces of sculpture. Here are also interred many distinguished heroes, who have raised the glory of their country, and live in the page of history.
The beautiful ideas of Addison came into my mind When " I see kings lying by those who deposed them ; when I consider 4 rival wits placed side by side, or the holy men that divided the
world with their contests and disputes, I reflect with sorrow and " astonishment on the little competitions and debates of mankind. 6. When I read the several dates of the tombs, of some that died “ yesterday, and some six hundred years ago, I consider that “great day when we shall all of us be côtemporaries, and make - our appearance together.”
As we crossed the church-yard, to return to the inn, we were: stopped by the appearance of an interesting young woman, who, with much grief in her countenance, was scattering slips of lilac. and half-blown tulips and fine sand from a little basket which she held in her hand, upon a fresh grave, which, from its size, and from her looks, I conjectured to be that of her infant child. It was the custom of the country, and an affecting one it was.''
We met with nothing to denoté our approach to the capital till we reached Fredericksberg, one of the king's country palaces, about two English miles from Copenhagen. The appearance of much bustle, and lounging lacqueys in scarlet and silver, ano. nounced that the court was here. As we rolled down from the beautiful eminence, upon the open summit of which the palace stands, the city, crowned by its palace in ruins, the Sound, and the surrounding country, presented a delightful prospect. The Foad was crowded with people in their Sunday dresses and merry faces, hurrying to pass the evening in the gardens of Fredericksberg, which, with the permission of his majesty, is the favouritë resort of the people. We were detained a few minutes, at the custom-house, adjoining the first draw-bridge, over which and an inner one we passed to the gates of the capital, which we entered, through a long arch, forming part of the ramparts:
As we approached Lubel's hotel, to which we were recommended, we passed by the walls of the royal palace, which bore ample and afflieting testimony to the colossal size and magnificence which must have formerly distinguished it, before it fell
a victim to the fames in 1794. Upon our visiting this splendid pile, after dinner, we found, by an inscription remaining under faced, that it was raised by Christian VI, out of his own private purse, without pinching his subjects, and cost six millions of dol. lars: it stands in an island, formed by a canal, and has several gates, the principal entrance is of wrought iron, and has a noble effect the front has twenty-five enormous windows in a line, and is composed of six stories, three of which are upon a large, and the remaining three upon a small scale. This front is three hundred and sixty-seven feet long, the sides three hundred and eighty-nine, and the elevation one hundred and fourteen. All the grand apartments of state were upon the fourth story; the court is surrounded with two wings of piazza, twelve feet deep, and on each side are stables for saddle and carriage horses, which are arched: these have escaped the fury of the conflagration, and are truly magnificent. The racks of that which holds forty-eight horses are of copper, and the pillars which separate the stalls are of brick stuccoed. In another we observed the racks and columns were of Norwegian marble; the floor of the stalls is of stone, and the breadth of each is six feet. The court is three hundred and ninety feet long, and three hundred and forty in its greatest breadth; the pilastres are of the composite order, and the columns Ionic ; there are also two lateral courts, which are surrounded with buildings of two hundred and forty-five feet by one hundred and six. The stable to the left is divided by the riding-house, which is one hundred and seventy-six feet by fifty-six, and lighted by fifteen cross-bar windows, with a gallery for the royal family and spectators, and has altogether a very grand appearance. Here all the branches of the royal family were formerly lodged. So rapid was the fury of the conflagration, and such the panic which it inspired, that but little of the treasure of its pictures, furniture, and gorgeous decorations could be saved. Of the internal mag. nificence of this palace, some idea may be formed by the follow, ing description of the ritta saal, or knight's saloon : it was one hundred and eighteen feet long by fifty-eight, was lighted by day by nine windows, and at night by three lustres which contained more than twelve hundred wax lights : on each side was a gallery richly gilded, and supported by forty-four columns of cinnamon wood, the bases and capitals of which were also richly gilded. An
artist of the name of Abilgaad was commissioned to embellish the hall with twenty-three large paintings, from subjects arising from the Danish history, at one thousand rix-dollars a-piece. The library of the king, which suffered much by the fire, contained one hundred and thirty thousand volumes, and three thousand manuscripts. The palace was too enormous for that of the capital and kingdom, and forms a striking contrast to the present residence of the royal family.
Whilst I was contemplating these stupendous remains, a splendid English vis-à-vis dashed by, drawn by a pair of noble greys, which, with a profusion of gold-lace upon the coats of the coachman and footman, attracted the notice and surprise of the good people of Copenhagen, who had never even seen their beloved Crown Prince in such finery: it was the equipage of a foreign quack doctor, who had had the good fortune to live and flourish in England in an age of pills.
Copenhagen is a small but very neat city ; its circumference between four and five English miles : the streets are broad and handsome; the houses, of which there are about four thousand, exclusive of the quarter belonging to the sailors, and garrisons for three regiments, are generally of brick stuccoed to resemble stone, and some are of freestone, and in an elegant style of Italian architecture : the shops are in the basement story, and by making no prominent appearance, do not disfigure the beauty of the rest of the building. Such is the case upon every part of the Continent which I have visited. In England every tradesman's shop is the raree-show of the street, and perhaps it is in allusion to this, as much as to any other cause, that our neighbours on the other side of the channel have pronounced us to be a nation of shopkeepers. The streets are divided by canals, which afford great facility to the transport of goods, but have narrow and inconvenient foot paths: the population is estimated at eighty-two thousand. La rue de Goths is a beautiful street, and is about three quarters of an English mile long. The Kongens nye Tow, or King's place, which is also the market-place, is a noble, spacious, irregular area, adorned with many fine houses, several of which have been raised since the late fire. The only theatre in the city is here : it was not open during our stay. This building is detached, small, but handscme without, and within is elegantly decorated : in the
scason, the performers play four times in the week, alternately opera and play, which is generally in the language of the country, On account of the vast number of persons who have free admission to it, amongst whom are all marine and land officers, the receipts are but very little, and the deficiency, which is supplied by the king, generally amounts to about one hundred thousand rix dollars per annum. Upon the whole the court is not a very munificent patron of the drama, and the performers seldom exceed mediocrity. In the middle of the market-place is an equestrian statue in bronze of Christian V, but too deficient in merit to attract the notice of a traveller. One of the large buildings in this place is the castle of Charlottenberg, part of which is devoted to the royal academy of painting, architecture, and sculpture; it has eight professors and four masters : the day for the annual distribution of the prizes is the 31st of March, the birthday of the prince, Frederic, who is the patron. Those pupils who obtain the golden medal are sent to travel at the expense of the crown. Such of the productions of the pupils and professors as I saw did not excite a very high opinion of the arts in Denmark.
No respectable stranger can enter Copenhagen without speedily becoming the object of its frank and generous hospitality. The day after our arrival enabled us to partake of the hearty profusion of a Danish dinner; it was given at the country house of one of the most respectable inhabitants of the city, and appeared in the following succession : soups top and bottom, Norwegian beef boiled, ham strongly salted, fish, pigeons, fowls, stewed spinage, and asparagus; the meat is always cut into slices by the master of the house, and handed round by the servants. Etiquette proscribes the touching of any particular dish out of its regular course, although the table may be groaning under the weight of its covers ; this ceremony is occasionally a little tantalizing. Creams, confectionary, and dried fruits followed: the wines were various and excellent. Our party was composed of English, Norwegians, Flemish, Swiss, Russians, Danish, and French. Would to heaven that their respective nations could for ever be as cordial and joyous as was this chequered collection of their merry natives! The repast lasted a formidable length of time: it was two hours of hard stuffing in a fog of hot meats. The appetite of the fair ones present was far, I might say very far, from being puny or fasti. dious, but, in the homely phrase, what they eat did them good.
The Danish ladies are enbonpoint, and possess that frank and generous countenance, which, the moment the eye sees, the heart understands and loves; they much resemble the higher class of Wouvermann's figures, and very largely partake of that gay good humour, which is so generally the companion of a plump and portly figure. Having said so much in their favour, which they eminently deserve, I cannot help hinting that they are not so attentive to neatness of dress as their neighbours; they want such à man as Addison to rally them with his delicate satire out of a slovenly habit, which induces them, when they buy a gown, almost always to prefer a dark cotton, because it does not want washing. The Danish ladies would immediately feel the force of the remark, without being offended at its freedom. They speak English with its proper accent, as well as French and German fluently. The English language forms a prominent part of female education.
Upon my complimenting a Danish lady on her accurate know. ledge of the English language, she said, “ We are obliged to learn « that; and French and German, in our own defence, otherwise we "should frequently be obliged to sit mute, which you know is a
very unpleasant situation for any woman; for beyond the islands," meaning Zealand and Funen, “our language, which is a dialect
of the Teutonic, is not understood." This. I found afterwards verified upon my return to Holstein from Prussia, a Danish serjeant in drilling a recruit from the former place, was obliged to speak to him in German.
Here, as in France, the company rise and retire with the lady of the house. In the garden we found coffee, and a droll fellow of a wandering mendicant Norwegian, who occupied, sans ceremonie, one of the garden seats, and upon his rustic guitar had collected the little folks of the family round him, who were dancing to some of the wildest and sweetest sounds that ever issued from the touch of simplicity
On our return to the city, and about a mile from it, a turfed hillock of small poplars attracted our notice: it was the national tomb of the heroes who fell in the memorable battle of Copenhagen roads, on the second of April, 1801, and stood in a meadow about two hundred yards from the road, and looked towards the Crown battery. As we approached it, we saw a small monumental obelisk, which was raised to the memory of Captain Albert