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what disappointed upon visiting them: the former are certainly finely wooded, and command a beautiful view of the Sound, but they are not laid out with much taste ; the latter is by no means splendid. I was more gratified with the King's park, which is extensive and highly picturesque, as I was with the grounds and gardens of Prince Frederic, the King's brother: this spot is
delightful, and, on acount of the motley crowds which flock to it, is in miniature (a very small one) at once the Versailles and Greenwich-park of Denmark.
The laws of Denmark prevent the gratifications of shooting: a young Dane, who had been in England, observed to me one day, with a most serious countenance, that nothing could exceed the impertinence of the hawks, who, availing themselves of the laws, flew into the room and killed his canary
birds. A gloomy curiosity conducted us to the Rasp-house, where capital offenders are confined for life : the male convicts, some of whom were ironed, rasp and saw Brasil wood and rein-deer's horns; the latter is used in soup. The females spin. The prisoners are separately confined: the house of correction is on the right: here offenders of both sexes are enclosed in the same room, many of them young and healthy, but, strange to relate ! I only saw one little child in the apartment: they all looked neat and clean, and are made by their labour to contribute towards their support. It has often surprised me that the latter arrangement has not been adopted in the principal prisons of England; surely it is a subject well worthy the notice of the statesman. We have hundreds of miserable wretches shut up in confinement after conviction, who, with the exception of picking oakum in some of the correctional houses, and that too in a very desultory and unprofitable manner, do nothing but render their depravity moire desperate. Justice demands that their services, if possible, should atone for their crimes; policy that they should help to maintain themselves; and humanity, that their health should be promoted by their labour.
The Admiralty-hospital, the Citizen's-hospital, the Orphan'shouse, and the hospital of Frederic, are all very humane foun. dations, and well maintained; there is nothing in them worthy of elaborate description. To an Englishman such establishments, and every other institution by which misfortune can be relieved,
misery alleviated, and infirmity recovered, are proudly familiar to his eye: they constitute the principal beauty of every town and city in his country. Although the manufactories of the north are much inferior to those of the south, I must not omit to mention the gratification which we derived from visiting the manufactory of china, which is very beautiful, and, although in its infancy, is thought to rival those of Saxony, Berlin, and Vienna. This manufactory furnished the beautiful service which we saw in the palace of Rosenberg: it is under the care of directors, who very liberally and politely shew the whole of this very curious and elegant establishment to strangers.
I did not leave Copenhagen without visiting the Dutch town in the isle of Amak, about two English miles from the capital, which is inhabited by about four thousand people, descendants of a colony from East Friesland, who were invited to reside here, with certain privileges, by one of the ancient kings of Denmark, for the purpose of supplying the city with milk, cheese, butter, and vegetables; the neatness and luxuriance of their little gardens cannot be surpassed: they dress in the Dutch style, and are governed by their own laws. The road from this village to the city is constantly crowded with these indefatigable people, who, by their bustle and activity, give it the appearance of a great ant-hill. In Denmark no other money is to be seen than the money of the country, the currency of which is penally protected : I must except, however, Dutch ducats, which pass all over Europe, and are very seldom below par. There is here a plentiful lack of gold and silver coin, and abundance of copper.
Having seen most of the lions of Copenhagen, we prepared to bid adieu to our friends, and shape our course towards Sweden : as a necessary preliminary we exchanged our Danish money for Swedish small notes : the exchange was about three per cent. in our favour; by this precaution we obviated the difficulty of procuring change for large Swedish notes in the country, and the inconvenience (and not a small one it is) of carrying its coin. We also procured a servant who spoke Swedish, which was very necessary, and purchased ropes and cross-bars to enable us to construct a new harness and tackling in Sweden, according to the custom of travelling there. When a man is about to set out on a long journey, it is a fortunate thing for him if some little pleasant or ridiculous event occur to set him off in good humour: nothing therefore could happen more opportunely than the following circumstance : Just before our departure we had occasion to go to a leather breeches maker, to which we were conducted by our laquais de place : our gentleman, who, by the by, was an Italian, and the coolest of his countrymen, with the greatest sang froid addressed himself very familiarly to the Baron B, the Bavarian minister, who was in the shop when we entered, and at last begged to have the honour of introducing him to us. We bowed to each other with a smile of astonishment at the intrepid assurance of our mutual friend. We took the road to Elsineur, attended by several of our Copenhagen friends, who begged to accompany us as far as Fredericksberg, where it was agreed that we should dine and part. Every thing in Denmark is very dear, pretty nearly as much so as in England.
FREDERICKSBERG-STORKSFASTIDIOUS MARES-FOREST LAWS-PR
NALTIES OF TRAVELLING-PRINCE, WILLIAM OF GLOUCESTER CONTINENTAL EQUIPAGES-HAMLETS-ORCHARD-CRONBERG CASTLE-SOME AFFECTING SCENES WHICH PASSED THERE-THE FARE
WEL KISS-THE GALLANTRY OF CAPTAIN MACBRIDE-THE LIT, TLÉ COURT OF ZELL-THE DEATH OF THE QUEEN MATILDA.
THE road from Copenhagen to Fredericksberg, distant about sixteen English miles, is very beautiful, and presents a luxuriant display of lakes, woods, corn-fields, and forests of beech, oak, and fir. Before we reached that town, we passed through a forest of wild horses, some of which we saw; they had a noble, rough appearance, and presented a fine study for such a pencil as Gilpin's. Whilst our dinner was preparing we visited the palace, a heavy and most incongruous massy pile of building, in which black marble contends with red brick, and the simple graces of the Grecian order with all the minute fretted perplexities of the Gothic; the whole is covered with copper, and was built by Christian IV: it stands in a lake, and seems to be fit only for the residence of frogs, and, I believe, with the exception of two old housekeepers, it has no other inmates. The Sal de Chevalier is a very long room, crowded with paintings, badly arranged, and perishing with damp and mildew : some of them seemed to deserve a better fate. The pillars which support the cornice of the fire-place in this room were once crowned with silver capitals, which the Swedes carried off in one of their irruptions. In the chapel we saw the throne upon which the kings of Denmark were formerly crowned; the roof is most superbly gilt and decorated, and the walls are covered with the arms of the knights of the first order. As we passed through one of the old galleries, over a moat, a gust of wind shook the crazy casement, and the great clock heavily struck its hour: it was altogether a place well suited for a second edition of the exploits of Sir Bertrand, or would form an appropriate academy for the spectre-loving pupils of the German school.
In the gloomy grounds of this palace we again saw our old friend the stork. This subject of his Danish Majesty generally quits his territories in October, and returns in Spring; and what is singular, he always returns to his own nest.
From this place we walked to the royal stud, about half a mile distant (the road to which was exquisitely picturesque), where the king has two thousand fine horses, each of which is disfigured, by being marked with a large letter on one side of the haunch, and the year of his birth on the other. There is here a beautiful and very rare breed of milk-white horses : they always herd together, and the mares will not permit the stallions of any other breed to approach them. I have been informed that there is a similar breed in the island of Ceylon. There is as much good nature as policy in the permission which his Danish Majesty grants to all the farmers, to have their mares covered by his finest stallions gratuitously: hence the fine breed of horses in Denmark, the keep of which, happily for that noble animal, is the only cheap thing in the kingdom. This
part of the country is said to abound more in game than any other, but although the forest-laws prevail with all their rigour in Denmark. Proper, except that the punishment of death is commuted into perpetual imprisonment, yet there is but little game, and but little increase in the breed of deer. It is a just retribution for the severity of the prohibition. After a glass of excellent Burgundy, which, as it was the signal of departure, seemed to lose half its flavour, we pressed our excellent friends by the hands, and proceeded on the road to Elsineur.
It is one of the penalties of travelling, and a painful one it is, to meet with here and there a being, who delights, attaches, and is gone for ever.
It was even so with one from whom I parted on this very spot, in all human probability never more to meet on this side the grave. He was a youth full of genius, accomplished, diffident, gentle, brave, and generous : he came from the region of mountains and cataracts, from the Swisserland of the north, where the winter snow is seen undisturbed to settle on the naked breast of the hardy and happy peasant. I must again bor. row the language of my adored Shakespeare, to paint my noble young Norwegian :