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ON THE COOKERY OF THE FRENCH.
Of Anthropophagi, and men whose heads
To the Editor of the London Magazine. SIR,~I am an alderman and but he conceives the idea of fountains of ton-maker in the city, and I have a love, starry aniseed, capons' wings in taste for sea-coal fires, porter, roast- the sun, and eggs blushing like Aubeef, and the London MAGAZINE. rora-followed (alas! what a terrible My son Bob, and my daughter Fan- declension !). by eggs à lu Tripe? I ny, on the contrary, used to dislike consider their beef in scarlet, their all these good things—the last ex sauce in half mourning, and their cepted: and prevailed with me to go white virgin beans, as examples of and spend a month or two in Paris the same warm and culinary fancy.* in the spring of this year. I knew Their ingenuity is sometimes shown that my son loved me as well as in the invention of new dishes, as well French cookery—and my daughter as in the epithets they attach to them nearly as well as a French gown: so another poetical symptom. Not to I unfortunately and affectionately say any thing of the vulgar plates of complied with their desire--and have frogs, nettles, and thistles, what gerepented it ever since. However, my nius there is in the conception of a journey has not been altogether dish of breeches in the royal fashion, thrown away, as it has reconverted with velvet sauce-tendons of veal in Bob to beef, and as it gives me an a peacock's tail - and a shoulder of opportunity of relating the wonders mutton in a balloon or a bagpipe ! of French cookery—a matter which Sometimes their names are so fanciin all your articles upon the French ful as to be totally incomprehensible, you have unaccountably neglected. especially if you look for them in a dicThe subject strikes me as highly im- tionary: such as a palace of beef in portant in all points of view: and it Cracovia-- strawberries of veal—the is a favourite theory of mine that the amorous smiles of a calf—a fleet with manners and tastes of a nation may tomata sauce-and eggs in a looking be known from their cookery even glass.t better than from the bumps on their But there are many of their dishes heads. The French Revolution was which are monstrous; and in my no doubt brought about by the na- mind not only prove the French cational fondness for necks of mutton pability of eating poisons, but their and inen à l'écarlate: and the nation- strong tendency to cannibalism. Great al hatred to the English is still visi- and little asps--fowls done like lible in their attempts to poison them zards—hares like serpents—and piwith their dishes :-a consummation geons like toads or basilisks-are all not at all to my taste, even with the favourite dishes: as are also a hash prospect of being buried in Pére la of huntsmen, a stew of good ChrisChaise. As for me, I am a plain tians, a mouthful of ladies, thin Spaman, alderman and button maker, nish women, and four beggars on a and should prefer being interred in plate. One of their most fanıous sauces Aldermanbury.
is sauce Robert, which I remember to It has long been the reproach of have read of in Fairy Tales as the the French, and you are among those sauce with which the Ogres used to who have echoed it, that they are not eat children. My daughter found one a poetical people. But at least their dish on the curte which alarmed us cooks are. Must not a cook, Mr. all—Eglefin à la Hollandaise : and Editor, be inflamed with the double after trying a long time, she rememfires of the kitchen and poetry, when bered it was something like the name
• Puits d'amour.--Anis etoilé.Ailes de poularde au Soleil Eufs à l’Aurore.. Bæuf à l'écarlate.--Sauce en petit deuil. ---Haricots Vierges.
+ Culotte à la Royale, sauce velouté.-Tendons de veau en queue de paon.—Epaule de mouton en ballon, en musette. - Palais de bæuf en Cracovie.-Fraises de veau.— Kis de veau en amourette.-- Flotte, sauce Tomate.---@ufs au miroir.
of somebody of whom she had taken taken in French words, when I can't lessons of memory. I suppose they understand what they call English had taken the poor devil from his ones—some of which seem to have name to be a Dutchman, and had ac- undergone as complete a change by cordingly drest him à la Hollandaise. crossing the Channel, as most of our They like liver of veal done to countrywomen.
Who could recogchoke you, and pullets like ivory- nize, for example, in wouelche rabette, so called, I suppose, from their tough- hochepot, panequet, misies paës, plomness and hardness. Other dishes are, boudine, or mache potetesse, the primal on the contrary, quite shadowy and and delightful sounds of Welsh rabunsubstantial: such as an embrace bit, hotch-potch, pancake, minceof a hare on the spit-partridge's pies, plumb-pudding, and mashed shoe-soles-a dart and a leap of sal- potatoes ? But the French seem mon-the breath of a rose—a whole fond of far-fetched dishes: they get jonquil—or biscuits that would have their thistles from Spain, and their done honour to the Barmecide's cabbages from Brussels, and their feast.
artichokes from Barbary in Turkish The French have a way of serving turbans.|| up their dishes which is as extraordi The French boast that their lannary as the rest. What should we guage is the clearest in the world. I think of whitings in turbans-smelts should like to know what they mean in dice boxes-a skate buckled to by a skate fried raw, or big little capers – gooseberries in their shifts, peaches ? I can easily compreand potatoes in their shirts ? Should hend mouton à la Gasconne, however : we not think any Englishman very and an epigramme d'agneau is as infilthy whose cook should send up sipid as a French epigram always cutlets in hair-papers-truffles in is. ashes—and squirted seed-cakes ? As I have got a corner of my and whose dinner-bell should an paper still blank, my son Bob begs nounce to us what they call a ding- me to let him spoil it with a few dong in a daub?
verses which he says are German The military dispositions of the to French Cookery: I therefore French are discoverable even in their hasten to conclude my epistle with cookery. They have large and small the expression of my best wishes, and bullets-carbonadoes innumerable the assurance that I am, syrup of grenades—and quails in lau- esteem and respect, Sir, your very rels: and I have often heard dishes obedient humble servant, called for, which sounded to my ear
TIMOTHY WALKINSHAW, very like “ramrods for strangling,"
Button-maker and Alderman.
And I'm going to say it once more,
Though I never believed it before. • Grand et petit Aspic.-Poulet en lézard-Lièvre en serpent.--Pigeon à la Crapaudine, en basilic.-Salmi de chasseurs.--Compote de bons Chretiens.--Bouchée de Dames. -Espagnoles maigres.-Quatre mendians.
+ Veau à l'étouffade.- Poulets à l'ivoire.-Accolade de lièvre à la broche.--Se. melles de Perdrix.-Une darde et un sauté de Saumon.--Souffle de rose.Une jonquille entière.- Biscuits manqués.
Merlans en turban: --Eperlans en Cornets.- Raie bouclée aux câpres.-Groseilles et pommes de terre en chemise.-Cotelettes en papillotes.— Truffes à la cendre.—Massepains seringués. -Dindon en daube.
& Gros et petits boulets. -Carbonades de mouton, &c.—Sirop de grenades.-Cailles aux lauriers. In the last two names our worthy Correspondent probably alludes to Rame. reaux à l'étouffade, and Beignets à la gendarme.
|| Cardons d'Espagne.—Choux de Bruxelles. — Artichauts de Barbarie en bonnet de Turc.
** Raie frite à cru.— Pêches grosses-mignonnes.
But now I can make it quite clear
For who but the devil's own legion
And his beer is a terrible glutton :
Or the roots of an oak with his mutton?
From his kitchen to lie on his table ?
Not our beef-nor the sauce in half-mourning :
Nor a mouthful of ladies each morning-
Yet with Holy Writ truths you may rank it:)
Or a shoulder of lamb in a bagpipe;
Or truffles which they with a rag wipe :
Nor sheeps' tails prepared in the sun ;
Nor ivory fowls on our dish :
And we like Harvey's sauce with our fish:
Don't agree with the stomachs at all
Let us cut Monsieur Véry's, and Gaul. ||
* Bob calls cooks “ the devil's own legion,” from the well-known fact of their being sent from even a hotter place than they occupy upon earth. He alludes in the last part of the verse to the kind of bean called vierge, which the French stew, and to the bon Chrétien grillé.
† Pigeons à la crapaudine.-Aspic de veau.— Feuilletage.— Tendons de mouton aux racines.Lièvre en serpent.–Pigeon en basilic.—Poulet en lézurd.—Civet de lièvre.
# Bæuf à l'écarlate.—Sauce en petit deuil.—Fanchonnettes.—Charlotte de pommes. -Bouchée de Dames, a kind of cake.—Raie au beurre noir.-Blanquette de volaille.
& Bæuf en ballon.--Epaule d'agneau en musette.- Dents de loup, a sort of biscuit. -Macarons jumeaux.—Truffes à la Serviette.—Eufs à l’Aurore.- Queues de mouton au Soleil. - Raie frite à cru.
|| Veau à l'étouffade.---Poulets à l'ivoire.- Noix de veau à la gendarme.--Mouton à la Gasconne.
JOURNAL OF AN EXCURSION TO THE FIVE ISLANDS AND
SHOAL HAVEN, ON THE COAST OF NEW SOUTH WALES. Saturday, Oct. 18th, 1823.-Rode enriched with the arborescent fern from the neighbourhood of Liver- (alsophila australis), the trunk of pool, through the district of Airds which, not growing so tall as the (in which are the small church and palm, lifted none of the beauty of its court-room of Campbell Town) to large feathery leaves out of the reach Appin, to breakfast; and thence to of our sight. Illawarra, or the Five Islands, to At the foot of this range of moundinner, a distance of sixty miles south tains is scattered the red cedar tree, of Port Jackson. The range of the of which the colonists make their Blue Mountains, which divides the furniture, and with which they fit east coast from the western interior up the insides of their houses. It is of New South Wales, terminating a genus of cedrelee, allied to finderwith the cliffs of the Five Island sia. The procuring of this timber coast and Shoal Haven, the road occupies many sawyers and boatmen from Appin presents the same rocky, from Port Jackson. The cedar sterile country, as the Blue Moun- planks, as they are formed by sawtain pass, and the same flora, with yers at the pit, are carried on men's the additions of the doryanthes ex- backs up to the mountain summit, .celsa, or gigantic lily, and the cri- whence carts (approaching by a narnum australe: on the Five Island row road cut through the forest on beach is also found granite, as at the ridge) convey the planks to all Cox's River. Passed the source of parts of the colony, or they are cartthe Nepean River, forming a small ed to the shores of Illawarra, and cataract, under which the stream navigated to Port Jackson in large hides itself in a picturesque glen; open boats. The government have and indeed it afterwards finds a sub- not (by reason of their ample supply terraneous passage through the sandy from Hunter's River and Port Macrocks to the Cow Pastures. The quarie) secured any portion of these descent from this range of mountains cedar grounds to themselves, simply to the sea-shore is very precipitous, compelling each person to take out a grand, and even tropically luxuriant permit from the Colonial Secretary's in point of vegetation. Here may office, which must specify the numbe seen, for the first time in this co- ber of feet of timber required, and lony, the cabbage palm (corypha without which protection, the horse australis) towering above all the trees and cart, or boat, and the cedar, are of the forest, to the height sometimes liable to seizure by any constable. In a of a hundred feet, with its bunches new run in the wild forest, the sawof leaves only at the top, flabelliform, yers have to perform the preparatory peltate, round, and fan-like. These labour of clearing their path, and a trees once also characterized the fall for the trees, which would otherneighbourhood of Port Jackson ; but wise be prevented from reaching the they have long been exhausted, the ground by amazingly strong vines spungy trunks having been used for (scandent or volubilous plants). They splitting into hut-logs, and the large then pit the stem, cut into short cyleaves for thatch ; for thus simply linders of from 8 to 12 feet in length, were even the officers of the first and saw them into planks of one or fleet, the Romuluses of the colony, two inches thick. For these they lodged. The absence of these trees receive of the cartmen 22s. for every has taken away much from the tro- hundred feet, from which sum is to pical character of Sydney, which can be deducted 6s. per hundred, paid to only be restored by the garden-culti- the carrier from the pit to the cart, vation of them, together with the leaving 16s. to be divided between banana and the New Zealand bam- the pair of sawyers. The cartmen, boo, for the climate is not hot enough after carrying an average load of 300 for the cocoa-nut. The jungle sides feet in the plank upwards of 60 miles of this Illawarra Mountain were also to Paramatta, over a road, in part Aug. 1824.
182 Journal of an Excursion to the Five Islands and Shoal Haven, [Aug. very rocky and difficult, obtain 45s. over them, or hung dangling like the or 50s. per hundred feet, from builders, ropes in a belfry: The valley recarpenters, &c. It is to be regretted, minded me of Humboldt's descriptions that so few of the timbers that grow of South American vegetation. The on this mountain are known. Ex- ground was unequal to boot, so that cepting the red cedar, the wild apple travelling through the jungle was ex(achras australis), the plum (cargillia tremely difficult and fatiguing. Here australis), the sassafras (cryptocarga we first saw the seaforthia elegans, glaucescens), the rosewood, so called a palm equal in size to the cabbagefrom its scent not colour (a genus of tree, with pinnate, ferny, or cocoameleaceæ?), and the turpentine tree nut leaves, from whose broad mem(tristania albicans); the wood-cut- branous leaf-stalks, or the spathe ters had no names for the many trees of the flowers, the natives make of gigantic growth which cover this their water-buckets, simply by tymountain.
ing up each end, like their bark Illawarra is a fine district of good canoes; in the same manner the grazing, and some excellent arable, dairy farmers make milk pails and land close to the sea-shore ; insomuch cream pans; and of the leaves they that, though distant and difficult make hats and thatch—the cedar, from Sydney by land, it was settled both white and red; and another in Governor Macquarie's time, when smaller fern-leaved palm-tree, yet he refused to let anybody go on the undescribed, of great beauty, its other side of the Nepean. As a ma trunk more ligneous, and its leaves rine situation, it is very beautiful. more palmy, than the common arboThe Five Islands show like one large rescent fern. Our way through the and two small ones, and look pic- dark dingle crossed the same freshturesque seaward, while the back water creek fifteen times. The criground presents a line of hills, among num here re-appeared, together with which the Hat Hill of Capt. Cook a large arum. and Mount Molle are conspicuous. In the first part of our journey, this
Sunday, 19th October.-Rested, or day, we crossed the shallow entrance only walked over the miles of Illa- from the sea of Illawarra Lake, a warra farm, the property of David large opening a little to the south of Allan, Esq. late Commissary Gene the Tom Thumb'3 lagoon of Captain ral of the Colony, who had the merit Flinders. The lake was illustrated of setting the example of settling the by natives in their canoes, looking Five Island district. The creek ra very characteristic and beautiful, vines still presented a tropical luxu- now that the progress of English ciriance of vegetation-palms, ferns, vilization has disarmed this part of and vines, or parasitical trees, the the coast of those savage dangers, last festooning and twining their with which it threatened Captain branches in all
directions, and great- Flinders and Mr. Bass, when they ly relieving the tall leafless monotony were here in the Tom Thumb open of the gum-trees. Epidendra also boat. The view was so picturesque built their nests among them, the the lake, the hills, and the Indians, asplenium nidus, the acrostichum al “ the spirit of them all,”-as to decicorne, and the dendrobium æmu serve a painter. Our route admitted lum. There is also a large-leaved of two or three long gallops along the tree, the slightest touch of which sands, which afforded great reliefs to brings away hairs like cowhage: it the tedium of the forest paths and is an undescribed species of urtica. the fatigue of the jungle. Although
Monday, 20th October.-Rode to we set out almost at sun-rise, yet it Shoal Haven, thirty-six miles still was nearly sun-set before we arrived further to the south, six or seven of at Shoal Haven, where Mr. Alexanwhich were through a mass of vege- der Berry has taken his grant of land, tation, requiring pioneers to pene- on either side of the Shoal Haven trate it. The vines or lianas wreathed river. This is the gentleman who the trees, like the boa constrictor, first learnt at New Zealand the fate and festooned the way, as if they of the ship Boyd, which was cut off were placed for one of Astley's by the savages in the year 1809, and equestrians to leap from the horse who brought away the very few sur