« AnteriorContinuar »
shore till my ship should sail, to the city of Bahia with great diligence, enjoy the hospitality of my country, both in caderas, and on horseback. men at Vittoria; for I had no other The streets are too steep for carriages, claim to it than that of common although the hill on which the town country, but that was enough. Mrs. is built, is not 600 feet high (as the Graham, in her late Voyage to Bra- books say), but a little more than zil, repays the hospitality of the 200, teste Captain Sabine. The caEnglish at Bahia, by saying that deras, or curtained chairs, which are “society is at a low, very low scale used as much by gentlemen as by here among the English, and that ladies, are carried obliquely, with “ the ladies are quite of the second only one pole from the top of the rate even of colonial gentility.” chair on the shoulder of each of two Now, though there are about twenty negroes, so that each may see his English merchants here, there are way before him, and the sitter enjoy but six married English ladies, and the thorough breeze and see before one single one; and when Mrs. Gra- him too, if he chooses to open the curham was here, there was, in ex- tains. change for one of these, the Con As it was the season of the carsul's daughter, whom this genteel nival, and this city was once the authoress has the indelicacy to name ecclesiastical metropolis of Brazil, at full length. It does not appear we expected to witness the masquethat Mrs. Graham meant to include rading holydays of the Roman CaMiss Pin her criticism, but tholic Religion. But the revolution the number of six is too small to had left priests at a heavy discount. scatter censure harmless among; and We found the saint-cupboards in the one of those six must have been streets shut up; and the carnival was Miss P 's married sister, whom forbidden by the governor, for fear of Mrs. Graham also mentions. I can political riot. only say that I had the good fortune On Sunday the 25th, I visited the to be either more grateful or less fas- public garden in the fort of St. Peter, tidious. But I should have thought presenting a fine terrace to the sea. that a very small share of gratitude, I found the garden neglected, proand a very considerable one of fasti- bably in consequence of the late diousness, might still have left the siege of Bahia" by the Brazilians. guest of Mrs. J
entirely satisfied The remains of an earthwork, thrown of her unaffected good-breeding, and up by their troops, are in the neighof the perfect politeness of such of bouring square. I copied the followher few countrywomen as I had the ing inscription from an obelisk in pleasure of meeting under her roof. the garden, commemorative of the
At our Consul's house, I saw an Prince Regent of Portugal's first Indian of Botocudo (in the interior landing here, on the emigration of of the country) who had been to the Royal Family from the mother Vienna to see the world, and was country. I wonder the Brazilians staying at the Consulate, on his way have not pulled it down. back to his own nation. He had a
Joanni large, round, cake-shaped piece of
Priore Reg. P. F. P. P. wood, inserted in a long slit in his
huc primum appulso under lip, something like the natives
xi. cal. Februar. of the Baie des Françoises on the west coast of North America, figured
Bahiæ Senatus in the Atlas to La Pérouse's Voyage;
Monumentum and a similar piece in a elit in each
posuit. ear. I have since learnt that there was a Botocudo with his wife and In the afternoon, I re-embarked, child exhibited in London in the year refreshed with oranges and limes, 1822.
(though they kept not long) and The weather favoured our little pleased with Bahia, although I did relache; and our ship completed her not find it so musical and romantic watering on the 23d of April. I had as Rio de Janeiro. To be sure, the therefore no time to visit the interior Portuguese were either away or shut of the country, to which indeed there up; and the lascivious guitar was are no roads; but I perambulated silenced by the trumpet of freedom.
A. D. MDCCCVIII.
There is a large opera-house here, cabin paint, tendered the between and there was to be a performance decks, which were always wet and that night; but our countrymen did dirty, perfeetly uninhabitable. Was not speak highly of Brazilian taste, it the hides of the cargo that genes or of the ripeness of the revolution rated this horrible smell, and proists for elegant amusements.
duced this sulphuretted hydrogen, The climate of Bahia is not op which, combining with the oxygen pressive to a visitor ; but it must be of the paint, formed sulphate of lead? tiresome to a resident to have the The wind being no longer aft, this thermometer all the year round from odour was blown into the stern ca750 to 859 Winter rains induce the bins for the rest of the voyage, and lower degree, and the higher is als rendered the ship more disagreeable ways relieved by a sea-breeze. ; in the trade-winds, than in rounding
The oranges of Bahia are particuCape Horn. Scouring was useless; larly fine. When the king of Portu- the black-lead was soon afterwards gal lived at Rio de Janeiro he would reproduced ; and without going so eat no other. They are seedless in far as to feel a stain (as Burke says) the main core. The seeds are in a like a wound, it is not to be conceiva little perfect sub-orange at the top of ed by the ladies and gentlemen of the other, which gives the fruit some England, who live at home in ease, what of a pear-shape, with the seed, how distressing is the constant sense chamber divisions indicated in the of uncleanness on board of ship. I rind of this little top-orange. The am told that this stench and these ant is the great enemy of this fruita stains are the consequences of many tree. Its armies will strip an orange- cargoes, particularly of sugar; and tree in a night
yet masters of ships (from pure inn
difference to every thing but navia Shake down its mellow hangings, nay its gation) take no measures to prevent leaves,
them, either by the use of unpainted And leave it bare to weather.
cabin-linings, or by ventilating the
holds. He that cannot eat and drink I saw some of these little animals any thing, drest in any way, at any walking away with large bits of time, out of any thing, touched by any leaves. No remedy of girthing the thing, mixed with any thing, and trunk with any thing, however poi- this under the sight of any dirt, the sonous or offensive, has yet been dise smell of any stench, the sound of any covered. They surmount all diffi- discord, and the feeling of any mon, culties. Fire at night is the only tion, should not go to sea. I write thing that drives them away for a this while I am at sea, because the time.
touch of shore is apt to put to flight The only manufactory at Bahia is the memory of all these miseries, howe of red pottery. The various water ever keen at the time, and I am des vessels are peculiarly adapted to this termined to have my revenge of shipwarm climate, from the porousness board; and to tell landsmen what of the clay of which they are made; truth will utter and what sailors will and the excellent water that is pour- not. I said I would write a pamphlet ed from them, after they have been against the sea. I am in a mood to placed in the sea or land breeze, chide the tempest, to rebuke the drinks deliciously cool,
waves, like King Canute. We sailed from Bahia in the after- outward ship was heavy and uneasy, noon of the 26th of April with a my homeward was heavy, uneasy, south-east wind and showery weather; wet and filthy. and so the wind and weather continued, On the day after we left Babia, and prevented us from clearing the the French merchant-ship, which land till the 3d day of May. In ad- sailed with us, and the Dutch one, dition to this foulness of wind, we which left the harbour the day benow found a foul ship; for the vessel fore, were close in sight; and on the having been some days stagnant in next day a brig was near us, supharbour, an infernal sulphuric stench posed to be an English merchant came from the hold, and from the vessel that sailed from Bahia on bilge-water, which, attracting the Sunday. On the following morning, lead from the salt-water-stained the French ship was elose in sight
again ; and on the next day, a vessel mometer standing from 789 to 88%, was still visible.
both night and day. From this time On the 5th of May, we saw a Por- the heat- fell to a common English tuguese Man-of-war, not a ship, but summer temperature. a species of zoophyta of the medusa On the next day, which was rainy kind; and in the evening we passed and cloudy, instead of dolphine, the high pyramidical peak of the isi stormy peterels were very numerous land of Fernando Norhonha, distant under the stem of the ship; and an six or seven leagues, to the eastward, the following day came a strong rising like a spire.
breeze and a high sea, producing On the 8th we crossed the line in heavy rolling. We passed a schooner, the longitude of 32° 30', and were showing English colours. The day becalmed for only two days, with rain after, the sea was still high and the for only one, after whieh we got the wind fresh at north-west, with heavy north-east trade-wind till the ed of rain in the evening, which latter conJune, when we were in the latitude tinued the next day. With the exa of 356 55', and in the Florida Gulf çeption of one day we had now a fair Stream. 'On the 13th of May the wind, till, we entered the English wind was light with heavy rain all Channel
, On the 4th of June we day; and on the next evening, which passed a brig, which afterwards overwas showery, we saw a lunar rain, took and spoke us; namely, the bow, a phenomenon which I have Nocton Packet from the island of witnessed only once before, and St. Thomas to England, On the which many people die of old age next day, the wind was stronger and without seeing.
the ship more uneasy and wet than On the 22d, being in latitude 20°
were out of the Gulf 7', the sun was vertical at noon, yet Stream, and on the following mornthe thermometer was only 75o. This ing we passed the islands of Flores is a wonderful sight, and yet thou- and Corvo, the two north-westernsands, who visit the tropics, notice it most of the Azores, or Western Isnot. Shine, but no sun, till you look lands. Flores looked verdant; but over head ; and, what is more awful, Corvo is little better than a lofty like the goblin in the Lay of the Last rock: both however, are inhabited. Minstrel,
We were now drawing near home
and the converging of outward and Your form no darkling shadow throws
homeward bound vessels. On the 9th Upon the vessel's deck.
day of June we passed a ship, and on A vertical sun is as much a miracle the next day met a large one; on the to an extra-tropical inhabitant, as 13th we met a brig, and saw two or snow and ice to an inter-tropical one. three other small vessels in the
On the next day, at evening, we chops of the Channel. The next day, met a brig; and much sea-weed was a vessel was in sight, and the sea was seen all day, supposed to have drifted green, the ship being in soundings. from the Gulf Stream. It seemed We were out of blue water. The to be all of one sort, namely the following morning several vessels fucus natans.
were in sight: in the afternoon we On the 24th of May, we crossed saw the land, Start Point, in Old the tropic of Cancer; and on that England; and late at night, we disand the three following days the sea cerned the Portland Lights. On the weed was very abundant. When next day, we were off Portland and gathered, small crabs and shrimps St. Alban's Heads; but the wind came up among it.
was foul; a mortifying circumstance On the 30th of May, the wind be- with home in sight. An Isle of ing light and the weather fair, we Wight pilot came on board ; and we saw half a dozen dolphins, with their had that island in sight all day. The ultramarine blue bodies, and their next morning the weather was wet, orange-green tails; but they would and the land out of sight. At noon not bite a bait. We also passed a of the 17th of June we tacked tobrig.
wards England, and made St. Cathe. Eight weeks have now elapsed, rine's on the Isle of Wight at three during which we have had the ther- o'clock p. m.; when the wind con
tinuing obstinately foul, I went on epithet that poetry has ever applied shore in the pilot-boat and landed at to the sea. Portsmouth at the same hour the next morning. The sea was smooth and Where all above is sky, and ocean all the sail pleasant. We came round
around, the Needles, and up the solent or sounds very sublime till you get on West Channel of the Isle of Wight, board of ship; and then reality gives and as we kept close in shore all the you a small circle of a dozen tiers way, the transition from a sea voyage of waves all around, capped with a to my land journey up to London low dome of sky, about the size of was broken by thus coasting along St. Paul's Cathedral; for it is a very this beautiful island. And so ends just observation of Dr. Reid, that this tedious journal of a voyage of “when the visible horizon is termi131 days at sea!
nated by very distant objects, the The boundless ocean! If it be celestial vault seems to be enlarged meant to give the effect of a view of in all its dimensions.” * It must there
sea without shore,” it is quite a fore follow that when the horizon is mistake to describe it, as the bound bounded by a circle of waves three less ocean. It appears to be com- miles off, the zenith shuts down over pletely bounded ; and that too at the our heads into a smaller segment of very short distance of three or four a sphere than that of an apparent he miles, all around. The melancholy misphere. But enough of the sea. main is in my mind the happiest
• Reid's Inquiry into the Human Mind, ch. vi. & 22.
A SHADOW on my spirit fell,
When my hush'a footstep from thee pass'd ;
To me, who fear'd it was thy last;
With roses from thy own loved bowers :
Back to thy valued rural hours ;
Was with thee in thy slow decays;
Whose life had been a hymn of praise :
Rest-till their change and thine shall come;
A light is glimmering round the tomb;
THE PORTRAIT PAINTER.
Sono Pittore !- Sal. Rosa,
I shall not begin par le com or a “ learned pundit,” I shall not mencement, for I have an antipathy satisfy the public. to straight lines. It has always been Whether I have “ wandered o'er my custom to open a book in the the earth," and describe scenes that middle, that I may have the plea- I have really witnessed; or have sure of torturing my brains to find never quitted the noise and bustle of out what the probable beginning a smoky city, and describe from may have been: the words, “ In a hearsay, I shall not satisfy the public. rich and beautiful valley, situated in Why should I? Who satisfies the the province of
“ The ele- public now-a-days? Who puts bis gant De Mowbray received a fash- name to a novel or a poem? Even ionable education at —;" put though every one knows who is the me into an agony of impatience. I author, does not every one love still prefer such openings as, And so to fancy himself wandering in a layou are really not going to-day ;” but byrinth of doubt, and exclaim,“ oh! then is sure to follow, “said the let me be deceived !” Long live the lady so and so," and the story goes known Unknowns, great, and little! on as quietly as if it had any other Long live doubt and perplexity !beginning. Indeed any thing matter Where is mystery may be impartiof fact makes me insufferably ner- ality. vous, and I had rather receive any When ye doubt, the truth not knowing, kind of answer than a direct one; Believing the best, good may be growing ; for which reason an Irishman is my In judging the best no harm at the least, delight.
In judging the worst no good at the best. This peculiarity may account for
Heywood. my declining to inform the reader
The first person who placed himwho I am, what is my age, sex, self under my care, with the fond or what circumstances gave rise to hope of being rendered immortal by my present pursuit. We are apt my art, was an old gentleman of to suppose the feelings of others goodly presence, with a red 'round similar to our own; and as I face totally innocent of expression, have acknowledged my preference small grey eyes, and broad bald for darkness rather than light, I forehead. His family, under whose choose to conclude, that all to whom hands he seemed to suffer a patient I introduce myself are of my way of martyrdom, insisted on my being thinking. I therefore intend to give left entirely alone with him, for fear them leave to stumble to their heart's of the attention of either being dicontent without affording them as- verted from the destined point. We sistance-a kindness I should prize took our stations and a dead silence extremely in my own person.
ensued. I am a portrait-painter, so much I When all was prepared I looked condescend to mention-whether I up and beheld the poor man screwed paint in allegory, or in very truth, into an upright position, his elbows whether I am actually a spoiler or resting on the arms of his chair, his adorner of ivory or canvas, or with hands meeting, and his thumbs twirla visionary pencil trace unsubstan- ing in the most exact time, his mouth tial forms, I shall not satisfy the pursed up, his eyes half closed, and public.
his whole body motionless, saving. Whether I am a portly citizen, the before-mentioned rotatory memwith such a face as smiles from bers: appalled at such an appearthe walls of Somerset-House, or a ance, I endeavoured by conversashadowy grey, gentleman, such as tion on various subjects to draw him startles us to look on in the pages of from his perpendicular; but he had Peter Schlemihl; whether I am received his lesson, and he knew the A clerk foredoom'd his father's sonl to cross, consequences of disobedience: he Sept. 1824.