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district, for a sum payable either in held. These were followed with peals money, or in kind, or perhaps in both. of thunder so loud and so very sharp, The agreement goes still farther ; for that I could not help thinking I felt in very dry seasons he must reverse as if it had touched me in every dithe business, and pump water from rection. From this disturbing cause the opposite side of the dike into the in the still and peaceful atmosphere ditches of the meadow grounds, for of Holland, at all times much charged the purposes of irrigation, and for the with humidity, there followed such a use of cattle.
fall of large hailstones, accompanied After having made these observa- with a torrent of rain, that in a few tions, I may now inform you that we minutes the decks were set afloat, and returned to Rotterdam, and in passing the party was forced to take shelter a jeweller's shop in one of the princi- in the cabins below. This, though pal streets, we met with a party of our very unpleasant for the moment, is a friends purchasing some trinkets from circumstance of no uncommon occur. a Jewess, who was not only one of the rence in Holland, and had it not been most polite and beautiful of her cast, for the inconveniency of the rain, our but who, in the course of her dealings, friends treated very lightly what seemgave proofs of integrity far beyond ed to us tremendous, in the form of what is usually attributed to her na- thunder and lightning. tion. So true is it, that we ought not ...
Tuesday, Jan to look to a man's professions, but his
Notwithstanding the go
y, larming state of the wesactions, in order to estimate his inoral 0 aug. ther last night, it soon imworth.
proved, and the forenoon of this day It was now drawing nigh to dinner was employed in making calls, and in time, and as a few of our Rotterdam examining some of the embankments friends had been invited on board of connected with the drainage and safeour little ship lying at anchor off the ty of the country. Upon the invitaBath hotel, where she was convenient- tion of one of the few noblesse ho ly moored with head and stern ropes inhabit the great commercial city of to two stately elms on the margin of Rotterdam, the party went in the the river Meuse, we repaired thither evening to what is called a Kraam to meet them, remarking, as we went, booth, which, at this season, is a comupon the great number of Jews in mon pastime with all ranks of people Holland, and the strangely degenera- in Holland. The principal streets of ted state of the Jewish nation in all the city were fitted up, for the apquarters of the world.
proaching Kermas, or Fair, with The dinner party consisted of 15 numerous temporary houses built of gentlemen. You know our accom- timber, which are usually divided inmodation on board is but small; a to one or two small apartments for temporary table was therefore set upon the reception of company, having also deck, and an awning of canvas, lined a kind of bar-room and kitchen. with the vessel's flags and colours, From this description, you may easily having been fitted up, we found our imagine that the accommodation was selves seated in a very excellent tent, not spacious, but the entertainment and a band of Savoyards having come lacked nothing in hospitality, or the on board upon a very slender invita- most polite civilities. The repast contion, all the favourite tunes of the sisted of choice wines and cordials, Dutch, and some of the English were served up with fruit and waffe cakes, played, among which we had Wilhel- a kind of thin crisped pancake. I ma, the national air of Holland, and shall only observe, en passant, that God save the King, upon the healths the Kermas or Lammas fair is nuof the respective kings of the Nether- merously attended in all the considerlands and England being given, and able towns on the continent. It is the dinner went off with great eclat. also the chief fair of the Orkney About 9 o'clock, however, when cof- Islands, where the name of Kermas fee came to be served up, the decks is still kept up, and where they have were visited with successive flashes of also the waffel or kermas cake. S. the most vivid lightning I ever be
(To be continued.)
SOME EXTRACTS FROM THE MANU- it. He had on each side an attend
SCRIPT JOURNAL OF A TRAVELLER ant with a powdered head, dressed in IN ITALY.
a robe of cloth of gold ; their func
tion, besides assisting the holy father . Rome,
to walk, was crossing his satin robes THERE was a grand celebration at over his knees whenever deranged by Santa Maria Maggiore this morning, any motion ; in holding it up on each when the pope officiated in person. side when he stood ; in placing a The Swiss atten:lants were very at- white satin cushion before him when tentive in placing all the decent-look- he knelt : in supplying him with a ing forestieri in galleries and side seats handkerchief when needed; which appropriated to them, but those for
handkerchief I observed was careful
han the ladies at a safe distance from the ly folded up afterwards with demonpapal throne. I had the good fortune strations of respect, sanctified as it, to be so near as to be able to draw a no doubt, is deemed by the operation. sketch of this throne, with a good re- The cardinals, in the meantime, play semblance of his holiness and the in a lower key the same music; they prelates in the lower steps. We come in, attended each by two perwaited an unconscionable time, dur- sons in black gowns, who bear their ing which, some of the forestieri, trains : they themselves are clothed mostly English, tired of standing, and
naing, and in ample robes of dusky red cloth, feeling about the hangings behind with shor
with short cloaks, a scapulum of erthem, sought a scanty point d'appui on mine, with the hair much powdered : the base of the pilasters; but the hang- they took their seats on elevated ing, being only fastened by pins along benches on each side of the sacristy. the top, they soon brought it down of which the papal throne occupied a in awkward folds over their guilty third side, and the great altar the heads and backs. The maitre des fourth. Strangers stood behind the ceremonies, an old Swiss, flew to the cardinals; the latter went one by one rescue of his hallowed trappings, vent- to pay their homage to the pope, each ing his rage and despair in broken ac
with his train carried behind him, · cents, half German and half Italian. and
alian. and, in ascending the steps of the
in ascen This episode served to fill up some throne, exhibited very various and uns part of the time. At last soft music
equal shares of grace and agility: one at a distance informed us that the or two of them were very near an anpope was approaching ; he soon ap- ticipated prostration, and one actually peared at the other end of the church, touched the carpetted steps with his borne on high in his chair of state hand. The whole sacred college on men's shoulders, surrounded by
s shoulders, surrounded by seemed very attentive to the perform cardinals, and his guard under arms. ance, and I thought I could perceive Two inmense fans made of peacock's a slight expression of restrained mertails, fastened to long poles, were held riment play more than once on some up on each side of him. Something of their holy countenances when any in all this struck me as 'excessively of their brethren acquitted themlike the march of Panurge in the selves awkwardly. The pope held opera ; and another infidel traveller out his hand to be kissed : sometimes beside me was no less sensible of the he held it fairly out, but at other resemblance.
times he kept it under his robe. His The pope, alighting from his ma
eminence then 'bows to his holiness chine, walked between two attendants
and retires as he came, but I thought up to his permanent throne, on the top the descent, in general, proved raof a flight of steps, and seated him- ther more painful and awkward than self under a canopy. He was dressed
the ascent. The most active and in robes of white satin, embroidered nimble of their eminences was, withwith gold. The tiara is a high gre- out a doubt, Cardinal Fesch, (Bonanadier's cap of pale gold, with three parte's uncle, he went up and down distinct rows of precious stones round
remarkably well, managing his train two other persons (not cardinals) not mean bishops, but mere expectants kissed the toe. The prominent ex- for some of the good things of the pression on the holy father's counte- church, much like the abbés in France nance, during all this time, was, as I formerly. Three men, dressed in thought, a certain impatience to have violet, sat in the lower step of the done; his motions were rather abrupt; throne, and they appeared as if seathis utterance, for he read something, ed on the floor in the cross-legged at clear and distinct, but quick. He is titude of tailors. evidently not a dramatic man, and Cardinal Fesch has a very fine coltakes no delight in representation ; at lection of pictures, one of the most the end of the marches and counter- valuable in Rome; the best Rubens I marches of each cardinal, his ample ever saw,-many fine Rembrandts, robe was spread out by his attendant, Vandykes, Murillos, a beautiful Tie from the tail shape it had before, to tian: I shall not describe any of thetn. the wing shape, and then crossed be- The cardinal happened to be at home fore over the knees becomingly–his when I visited his collection, and eminence humouring the arrange- there were several other strangers prement by a gentle shake of his whole sent. He joined in the conversation, person, to throw the drapery into na- - talked about pictures like a man tural and easy folds. His eminence, who knew the language of connoisCardinal Fesch, was more particular. seurship,-was very merry and joculy an object of attention to foreign lar, and, in short, was as lively as he spectators, and all could vouch for his had been demure the day before. exemplary devotion ;- none prayed « C'est (to use the words of Barthowith more fervour;-I heard him lan, in the Barbier de Seville) un muttering over his book most part of petit vieillard gros, court, rond et the time, with great onction, lifting vermeil,” good humoured, rather vulup his eyes at intervals, and casting gar in his manner, and in perfect them down again on his book with health. He wants to sell his pictures out ever glancing aside to the right for a life annuity of three thousand or left, and crossing himself very guineas. He means to live twentyoften. Notwithstanding all this, he five years! We saw on a marble table is in surveillance, haying rather slyly a bust of Bonaparte crowned with a eloped during the hundred days to golden wreath of laurel ; it is all right, join his nephew in France.
admirably; but I observed that his • These entertaining morceaux are from holiness kept his hand slyly under his the journal of the same gentleman who robe, and Fesch kissed only the garfavoured us with the account of the impro- ment. Some of the cardinals were advisatore in our last Number.
mitted to an actual embrace. One or
proper, and manly. Fesch should not At last the sovereign pontiff de- deny his fallen benefactor ; and this scending from his throne, went to is the only time I have looked at a wards the altar, and kneeling on a bust of that man without disgust. prie Dieu, remained sometime at his Fesch was a sort of factotum of his devotion; and, finally, ascending the nephew's household during his first great arm chair in which he had been Italian campaign, and the person to brought, was lifted on high, and borne whom his staff complained when dine away with the same cortege, great fans ner was not punctually served ;-then of peacock's feathers, and music, and a contractor-then a connoisseur and so it ended. I omitted to mention purchaser of pictures,-a cardinal and that the tiara was taken off and put an archbishop of Lyons. He has cere on the pope's head fifteen or twenty tainly acquitted himself very well in times during the ceremony: under it two of these capacities; he was a good his head was covered with a small archbishop, and a skilful connoisseur ; calotte of white satin. Although the and even if it were proved against him attendants were very careful in re- that the general's dinner was not well placing securely the triple diadem, cooked, or served cold, such blemishyet the pope was obliged to raise his es may be overlooked and forgiven. hands to it each time to make it fit Bonaparte used to laugh at the idea completely; and all this awkward of Fesch turning connoisseur.. anxiety had rather à childish effect. There is quite a colony of BonaA young boy, who had been an atten- partes here; they live almost entirely tive spectator, remarked on the occa- among themselves, shunned by the sion, that he thought all these people Roman bonne compagnie, who are were much too old to play a whole very inveterate in their dislike to the morning. The papal chair was sure Imperial Family, and visited only by founded with prelates, which does some Jacobinical English and Americans. Madame Mere, however, hates ment, wrapped in conscious bliss, and mortally her daughter-in-law Princess crossed himself; then assuming the Lucien. She lives with Fesch, and is active, instead of the passive part, he immensely rich. Lucien is a ruined turned, full of heavenly love, towards inan, deeply in debt to Tortonia and his unkissed neighbour, who stood others. He has lately married one of ready for the fraternal embrace. Their his daughters to an Italian. Louis eminences fell into each other's arms is here also, and La Borghese, separat- cheek to cheek twice over, and thus ed from her husband, and living in å the rapture passed along, kissed and separate part of the hotel. Much has kissing in turn, from one end of the been said of Canova's statue repre- line to the other. Cardinal Fesch senting this princess nearly naked, was there, and acquitted himself adand just out of the bath, and reclin- mirably; none kissed with more fera ing on a couch. It is not shown to vour, or crossed himself 60 often, or the public, and I have not yet been with a better grace. This running able to see it. She was very beauti- fire continued a good hour, and no ful at the time this statue was ex wonder, considering there were about ecuted, and well lenown to have been sixty of their eminences, and none of a perfect model for female form, and them very young or active. The is said to have actually sat as the mo- pope, however, looked horribly tired, del to Canova. “ Est-ce que vous and so were we, I must say, and avez reellement posé comme vous etes heartily glad when all was over. I la ?" said the D. of A. to this beauti- never sá w such a display of equipages ful princess. (I have it from herself.) on any other occasion at Rome. "The « Oh, l'air de Rome est si doux, vast court of the Quirinali was all vous savez, d'ailleur il y avoit du feu!” in a blaze with gold and scarlet, for was the ingenuous reply. The Prince the coaches of the cardinals have all Borghese himself is a sort of gambler, gilt springs and perches; and the -fat and fair, without talent,-a mountings and trappings of the black prodigal as to dogs and horses,mava- full tailed horses are all red, with red ricious in every thing else. With an plumes, red reins, &c. &c. immense fortune and high rank, he joined early the Revolutionary party, In this travelling age, all the world like Egalité, from a sort of instinc. has seen the Belvidere Apollo, and tive love of disorder, to which the the Belvidere Apollo has seen all the vices of courts do not suffice, and world; while nations visited foreign which aspire to those of the populace. countries, en masse, cumbrous marDuring the Revolutionary rage, he bles travelled post over the Alps and made a show of burning publicly his back again with bronze horses gallopa charters and titles in the streets at ping after them; the works of Grecian Rome, but they were false, he had art have been carried off to and fro in taken care to secure the real ones. the wantonness of successful violence,
Ist January. The pope officiated out of pride, pique, and spite, and at the Quirinali this morning, and his frequently, I verily believe, without music was very fine, as usual. I do either side caring å pin about them. not exactly know what the particular Mány a Roman talks feelingly about business of the day was, the bestow; the restitution of the Laocoon, who ing of a cardinal's hat, I believe, but scarcely ever saw it before it went or the cardinals appeared very happy on since its return; and I have known the occasion, and were certainly very citizens of Paris inconsolable for the loying. They were, as on former ce- loss of this chef-dæuvre, who admitted lebrations, seated in a semicircle, or that they had not once been at the rather in three sides of a square, be- Museum for the last ten years. Those fore the papal chair. The cardinal who have not seen the original mar, on the right of the pope got up in a bles have probably seen plaster casts; solemn manner, placed his two hands and, whatever connoisseurs may say on the breast of his neighbour on the about an abstract interval between the right; their reverend heads inclined original and the cast fatal to the perto each other cheek to cheek, and then fection of the latter, and about the to the other side. The kissed cardi- breathing and living transparency of nal getting up in his turn, laid his the Carara marble, men of untaught band on his own breast for a mo- taste may do very well with good
casts. Antique marbles, indeed, have to victory. This "rash confidence generally a shining polish, which has might soon be fatal to him; his upa very bad effect; this is particularly lifted arm leaves his body wholly unthe case with the Apollo, the Laocoon, guarded. In an English ring, a noand the Gladiator, and the dull sur- vice in the art would double him with face of the plaster is, in that respect, a stomacher. His adversary is of a better than the crystal brightness of more sturdy make, with the barbarian the marble. But I shall not describe cast of countenance, expressive of bruantique statues. I admire the best of tal ferocity, with his right leg for. them truly and honestly, but admira- ward, his left bent under him, stooption is but a dull thing at second- ing low, with his right arm drawn hand, and such descriptions a thank- back, just going to spring on his eneless task. Many are the antique mare my, and bury the murderous hand in bles only fit for the lime-kiln; and his defenceless side. This is founded how should it be otherwise, when any on an ancient anecdote, as I underthing coming to light after fifteen cen- stand. One of these athleti is of the turies of inhumation is entitled to the make of the Gladiator, and the other honours of the Museum, and objects of the Hercules. of art rank according to heraldic quar. I have been introduced to Canova ters..
in his studio, where only he is to be Canova, sensible of the bad effect of seen, mixing rarely in general society, the glossy polish of the ancient mar- although sure of meeting everywhere bles, has contrived to give to his a the most distinguished reception. He sort of harmonious dimness truly ad- is a short active man, above fifty, with mirable. His marbles do not shine at a very sensible expressive counteall, yet are perfectly smooth ; every dance, and good-humoured animated idea of stone disappears, and, without conversation, perfectly simple and unany other merit, the enchanting soft- assuming. It is impossible to enjoy a ness of his works would be sufficient fairer or a higher character. Singu. to ensure high celebrity ; for there is larly liberal and generous, particularexpression in their softness, not of ly to artists, envy itself can find no mere life, but of life animated by pasa room for detraction. He has now ensions, for any touch of hardness tells joyed his high standing for thirty by the contrast, as light comes out years; it would take thirty years of shade. The Museum of the Vati- more, I understand, to execute the can is already open to Canova's works, works solicited, at his own price, by -an honour which no artist has re- all the princes of Europe. ceived in his lifetime before. One Canova excels in the female form. of the rooms is decorated with his Per- The Medicean Venus has now several seus, which has so nearly the attitude rivals, to some of which I should, perand action of the Apollo Belvidere, as haps, give the preference, although to be considered a close imitation. none of them equal in simplicity of Perseus holds up the head of Medusa expression to the antique. I do not by the hair, and that head is admir- think him always successful in his able; the hand of death is on its beau- draperies, certainly not in the drapery tiful features, on the hanging lip, and of his Hebe, which is quite metallic. the half-closed eye, yet a faint expres. The lower part behind is an imitation sion of remaining life lingers there of of the drapery of the Niobe, which such profound sadness, that it goes to appears to me really bad. The nothe heart to look at it. The head of dern Phidias knows his forte as well the hero is not half so fine as that in as his foible, and his female figures his hand; it has the air of a mere boy are not frequently encumbered with or an insipid pretty woman ; the body drapery; but another objection awaits is lovely too, but not more heroic than him there, they are really too beautithe head. The Two Pugilists stand ful for public exhibition. This may fronting each other on opposite sides be said of his Venus of Florence, his of the same room ; they are colossal, group of the Graces, his reclining Ve full of muscle and strength, ready to nus, the latter made for the Prince close in deadly combat. The one on Regent, and the former for the Emthe left, a handsome young man, peror Alexander. Speaking to Cano stands in bold defiance, disdainful va of the peculiar softness of polish of and careless, like a man accustomed his marbles, he told me that they