ing if the globe we inhabit shall have undergone any change of temperature, and to what amount, during the interval.'

We learn also that the pressure of the atmosphere at the level of the sea is not the same in every part of the globe. Barometrical observations show that this pressure increases gradually from the equator to about the 30th parallel, from which it as gradually sinks up to the pole, and falls below the mean of the equator: generally stated, we may say that, south of Cape Horn, the Mercury stands an inch lower than in other regions. This difference of pressure is assigned as a mechanical cause of ocean currents, of which the most powerful issue from the south polar seas; or it may be that the great quantity of fixed ice, or the greater expanse of water in those parts, admits of a more powerful generation and propagation of streams than in the north; and to this cause we may perhaps refer the presence of icebergs 10° lower in the antarctic than in the arctic regions.

Our knowledge of climatic phenomena is also enlarged: Sandwich Land, in the same latitude as the north of Scotland, is always deeply buried in ice and snow, which the summer fails to melt; Yorkshire and South Georgia are about the same parallels, yet the only vegetation of the latter is a few lichens and mosses; while Iceland, which lies 10° nearer to the northern pole, has 870 species of plants. Hermit Island is the most southerly land on which trees grow."

Such are some of the items of knowledge gained of this remote quarter of the globe. Human enterprise has learned many of the secrets of that region of mighty contrasts, and will doubtless, when opportunity offers, pursue the investigation. Meantime the wintery solitudes of the far south will be undisturbed by the presence of man; the penguin and the seal will still haunt the desolate shores; the shriek of the petrel and scream of the albatross will mingle with the dash and roar of continual storms and the crash of wave-beaten ice; the towering volcano will shoot aloft its columns of fire high into the gelid air; the hills of snow and ice will grow and spread; frost and flame will do their work, till, in the wondrous cycle of terrestrial change, the polar lands shall again share in the abundance and beauty which now overspread the sun-gladdened zones."

CHAPTER II.

NEw Zealand-Characteristics of this group, and of its Inhabitants-Tonga Islands-Pleasing Manners of the People-Fondness for Ornament-Superstitions-Missionaries-Feejee Islands-Ferocity of these Islanders-Beauty of the Coral-Productions-CannibalismCostume-Murder of Lieutenant Underwood, and Midshipman Henry - RetaliationSandwich Islands-Descriptions-Cruise of Captain Hudson-Oregon and CaliforniaGold-Philippine Islands--Manilla-Singapore-Interesting description of the Islands of the Indian Archipelago, and of their Inhabitants-Return.

By the last of March, all the squadron except the Peacock had rendezvoused at the Bay of Islands, in New Zealand. The New Zealand group are among the most recent acquisitions of Great Britain, and are beautifully

situated. The climate is delightful, and fruits and flowers abound. It possesses finer harbors, perhaps, than any other group in these seas, which renders them favorite places of resort.

Several towns of considerable commercial importance, are situated upon this group, the largest of which, Kororarika, contains over a hundred houses, and other buildings, and was at one time so famous for its wickedness and degradation, being the resort of the most abandoned and vicious, that it was called Blackguard Beach. A much better state of things, however, has now been introduced by the British. The population is of a very mixed character, numbering, perhaps, about one thousand, and made up of runaway sailors, escaped convicts, foreign residents, etc.

Auckland, the capital of New Zealand, contains about three thousand inhabitants, and is a flourishing town. It is situated on a beautiful river, and has many natural advantages from its locality. The white population, in New Ulster, the only regular colony, has been estimated at twenty thousand, and the entire population of New Zealand has been conjectured to be 150,000. Coal abounds on one of the islands, together with the clay used for brickmaking, and many valuable mineral productions. The soil is generally fertile, and well adapted to the growth of grain, the climate being similar to that of the south of France, and though variable, generally healthy. The emigration of the lowest and most vicious persons to New Zealand, exerted the most injurious effects upon the natives, and previous to the healthful influence of missionary labor, and of wholesome and stringent laws, the prevalence of crime was fearful. In 1840, a colonial organization was formed here, by the British government, under Captain Hobson, of the Royal Navy. The arrival of this gentleman at New Zealand, led to the redress of various wrongs, particularly with regard to land unjustly obtained from the natives. These were now honorably purchased by the government, divided and sold at auction, to the numerous settlers who were constantly emigrating hither.

The New Zealanders are proud and revengeful, but hospitable to strangers. Like all savages they are extremely fond of ornaments, and tattoo themselves profusely, wearing enormous rings in their ears, and decorating themselves with the most gaudy and brilliantly colored feathers. They seem somewhat poetical in their tastes, having an abundance of rude lyrics, and are passionately fond of music. They have too, a kind of astronomy, and various strange superstitions and legends, relating to the creation of the world, of which they seem to have an imperfect idea. Their dances and funeral occasions, are alike characterized by great festivity, in which the discharge of firearms is the grand finishing ceremony. Vegetation here is not remarkably luxuriant, with the exception of the native flax, which promises to be a most important export. In all respects New Zealand bids fair to become the abode of flourishing colonies, and a center of commerce for the adjoining islands.

The expedition next visited the Tonga or Friendly islands. These, discovered by Captain Cook in 1773, are noted for their varied scenery, their animal and vegetable productions, and for missionary stations. Several of them seem to be formed entirely of coral, and the immense reefs which close them in are entirely composed of this gigantic monument of the skill and industry

of the little coral builders. An active volcano is on one of these islands, and hurricanes and earthquakes are both violent and destructive. The climate is unhealthy, from the sudden changes, and coughs and consumption frequent. Vegetation on most of the coral islands is richly luxuriant; the bread-fruit, and cocoa-nut tree, grow in perfection, and the graceful forest-trees of these tropical regions, are entwined by a profusion of beautiful vines, whose manyhued flowers alike fill the air with fragrance, and enhance their gorgeous magnificence.

The Tonga islands contain about twenty thousand inhabitants. These people are warm-hearted, and seem to enjoy life. In most of the South Sea Islands woman is degraded to a brute-like condition, and infanticide and cannibalism are common. Here, woman is treated with kindness, and connubial attachments, and fondness for offspring are strong. The males perform all the out-door labor, the females engaging only in the lighter occupations. The Tongese have fairer complexions than the neighboring islanders, frank and pleasing countenances, and their women, with frequently great personal attractions, unite modest and winning manners. Their fondness for dress is extreme, and when arrayed in their gala costumes, they paint their faces in bars of red, white, and yellow, or in other ways, according to fancy. Musical in their tastes, they have tunes suited to every employment. The voices of the females are sweet, and while engaged in weaving mats, or in constructing reed baskets, they sing in a wild and somewhat mournful style.

During the visit of the American squadron, the natives arrayed themselves in their martial costume, decorated with war paint, and their brilliant mats, bells, and other ornaments. Captain Wilkes thus describes their appearance, in his narrative: "I was now surrounded by large numbers of warriors, all grotesquely dressed, and ready for the fight, with clubs, spears, and muskets. In addition to the usual tapa round their waist, they had yellow and strawcolored ribbons, made of the pandanus leaves, tied around their arms, above the elbow, on their legs, above and below the knees, and on their bodies; some had them tied and gathered up in knots, others, wore them as scarfs— some on the right shoulder, some on the left, and others on both shoulders. Some of these sashes were beautifully white, about three inches wide, and very pliable. Many of them had fanciful head-dresses; some with natural, and some with artificial flowers, over their turbans, (called sala) and nearly all had their faces painted in the most grotesque manner, with red, yellow, and white stripes, crossing their faces in all directions. Some were seen with a jet black face, and vermillion nose, others with half the face painted white. When a body of some eight hundred of these dark-looking, well-formed warriors, all eager for the fight, and going to and fro, to join their several companies, is seen, it is hardly possible to describe the effect."

Tonga, the principal island, is considered sacred, and is the seat of the principal temples, and the Mecca of the group. The natives worship a variety of gods, some of whom are not represented by any image, and others are celebrated warriors of past times, whose heroic deeds live in tradition. Their oldest god was Maui, who drew the islands out of the sea with a hook and line with his two sons he lives under the earth, and when he turns over

earthquakes are produced. Bulotu is another famous deity, said to inhabit an imaginary and far distant isle, of the same name. This interesting personage dwells in a cave, which he is unable to leave from the enormous length of his tail; he, however, finds consolation in his confinement, in the charming society of his numerous wives. The spirits of the kings and eminent chieftains of the Tongese, are transported after death to Bulotu, the "island of the blessed," a spot of wondrous beauty, where abounds the most luscious and tempting fruits. The hereafter of the lower classes proves no compensation for the greater ills they have borne while living: their lot still continues hard, for after death they must remain on earth, and feed on lizards and worms, while those translated to Bulotu, are allowed to tickle their palates with the most delicious viands; and to finish the attractions of their enchanting residence, hogs, as in " Lubber-land" abound, which, in the estimation of the Tongese, completes their felicity. In this paradise of the Tongese, no fruit or flower ever withers or decays; but if a flower be culled, another, the exact image of it, forthwith rises in its place, and if a bird is killed, its melody is continued without the loss of a single note, by another songster, exactly resembling it, which at that instant has been called into being. So, also, if their favorite animal, the hog, be destroyed, its place is immediately filled by another corpulent grunter.

Bulotu, to whom the most costly presents are made, and sometimes human sacrifices, is destitute of good qualities, and has absolute power, not only over man, but over the inferior gods who reside on the island. Mortals cannot visit Bulotu, except by the especial interposition of the deities, for to inhale its air is instant death. It is said, however, that a party of natives once visited this delightful spot, and strove to pluck the fruit and flowers, but they eluded their grasp, and everything appeared to them as unsubstantial as shadows. They also attempted to enter the houses, but found them unreal, and discovered too, that they could walk through the trunks of the trees, and the hills without meeting with any resistance.

The Tongese are daring and expert swimmers, and like all the natives of the islands of these seas, are passionately fond of the water. The large canoes in this part of the world are extremely graceful and handsome in display, particularly the double war canoes, with flags and streamers, paddling along with great swiftness and skill. When these are assembled, as they sometimes are, to the number of hundreds, fully equipped, and their chiefs and men habited in full war costume-with their clubs, pikes, halberds, spears, bows, arrows, and slings for throwing large stones, all ready for action-the spectacle is extremely imposing. The double canoes are united by a deck or platform, on which is often a hut.

The Methodists, in 1821, were the first to establish missions in these islands. The influence of the missionaries has much elevated the condition of the natives; great numbers have been taught the common branches, and females in sewing and knitting. About one quarter of the inhabitants profess Christianity. As a people, the Tongese are much attached to their ancient customs, and fierce and bloody contests have ensued between the heathen and christian parties. While the squadron were at the islands, the different

factions were preparing for battle. Capt. Wilkes endeavored to reconcile their difficulties; but his friendly efforts were quite unsuccessful, the missionaries seeming rather desirous for a trial of strength between the parties. The "Devils" party triumphed, and after various conflicts peace ensued.

Early in May the squadron left for the Feejee islands, where they arrived in a few days. This group lies in a semi-circular form, the base of which is about 19° 30' south latitude, and number one hundred and fifty islands, of which less than one half are inhabited. They have long been so notorious for their hidden coral reefs, and for the ferocity of their inhabitants, that few vessels seldom dared to approach, except now and then, an American or an English whaler; and these ventured with the extremest caution, as it was rare that any left their inhospitable shores without losing some of their crews, or missing a part of their stores. The inhabitants mostly retain their original characteristics, excepting where brought under the influence of the missionaries, who with the assistance of a number of converted Tongese emigrants, have produced a most happy influence upon the inhabitants of Lakemba.

The coral reefs surrounding these islands, are of rarest beauty. The branching coral, partly sunk beneath the surf, presents the most brilliant hues of pink, purple, green, and yellow, tinting the waves with delicate reflections. The soil, of this cluster, is luxuriantly fertile, and a soft, delicious atmosphere rests over it, even in the rainy season, when in other lands the sky is dark and cloudy: in the hottest of weather, the inhabitants are refreshed by exhilarating sea-breezes. The air is loaded with the fragrance of innumerable aromatic shrubs, and the thousand gorgeous blossoms of a tropical clime. But these blessings are mingled with evils, and as in the Tonga islands, rheumatism, coughs, and lung diseases are prevalent.

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Three different kinds of cocoa, and nine of bread-fruit trees, grow here, and furnish the natives with food, clothing, materials for their hats, cookingutensils, and implements of war. A singular method of preparing their bread-fruit is practiced. The rind is taken off, then jars filled with it, and placed in small holes in the ground, lined with banana; these are thatched over, and in a short time the fruit ferments, and forms a cheese-like substance, very pleasant and nutritious to the taste. Bamboo is applied to a variety of purposes, for building huts, for torches, drinking vessels, etc., and also for candlesticks, while prepared leaves of the cocoa serve for candles. Out of the toa or iron wood" are made spears, bowls, and various other domestic articles. In short, most of the animal and vegetable productions are rendered available, by the ingenuity of the natives, and these comprise all the ordinary productions of the tropical climes. The sea is also fruitful, fish and turtle abounding. These animals are here, as elsewhere, considered a great delicacy, while their shells are a valuable article of commerce. The turtles are caught in nets, and confined in pens, by the water-side, to fatten for use. A green worm, found in the salt water, called balolo, is esteemed a great luxury. The "biche de mer," or sea-slug, is yet more prized and eagerly sought for. In its movements it resembles a caterpillar, and is from two to nine inches in length, and of various colors. The natives find them as pearls are found, by diving down deep among the fissures of the coral rocks, or else