Remember that the Chinese Hollyhock, Double Scarlet Lychnis, and similar plants, may be propagated by cuttings of the flowering stems and other parts.

Clip Box edgings, that they may make a new growth before winter. Plant out such bulbs as are injured by too long drying, as Snowdrops, Lilies, etc. Also if there are still any autumnal flowering bulbs not planted, Colchicum, Autumnal Crocus, etc., set them out.

Make layers of Carnations and the other plants already mentioned; cut off such layers as have been before made, and are now well rooted.

Pot cuttings which have struck roots. Pot seedlings that are well advanced, and shift into larger pots those seedlings, cuttings, etc., before potted or sowed in small pots.

Every thing which is to go into the house in the winter, should be arranged and assorted now, and many plants potted. After potting, remove to the shade of a north wall or a shed; keep cool and moderately watered.

Auriculas and choice Polyanthuses, whether seedlings, cuttings, or old plants, should be often worked over and cleaned; keep them growing.

Make ready your bulbs for planting in September and October. Give the flower-beds occasional waterings with liquid manure; but remember that no slight watering should be given to plants in the open border; they should be watered freely, if at all. For they ought to be accustomed to supporting themselves, and if the soil is deep, they will thrust their roots down to the water table, while if watered slightly from time to time, the roots will turn towards the surface, and thus not only the plant gets less hold upon the earth and less food, but it grows weaker, and if the watering is omitted for any length of time, will dry up speedily, when other plants, accustomed to rely on themselves, are thriving.

Once a month, throw a little salt over the walks; it kills weeds, and binds the gravel more firmly together.

During the month, begin to bud Roses. The earliest budded will sometimes start and grow very much before winter; but those budded later are safer. On the next page will be found a description of the flower-garden referred to on a previous page.

FLOWER-GARDEN.

HOW PLANTED WITH BULBS, PERENNIALS, AND SHRUBS,

* against a letter means that the bed is full of the bulbs. ? only partially filled.

Daffodils, Pansies,

Peonies, Day Lily, Tiger Flower, Gladiolus, Fall Crocus, Tuberoses.

?e,

Daffodils, Pansies, Polyanthus.
Tulips, Pansies.

1, Bedding plants and Annuals.

m,

o, Iris, Jonquills,

P, Crocus,

Daffodils,

Hyacinth, Gladiolus, Squill, Tulips, Dielytra, Pansies, Dwarf Peony, Polyanthus, Lilies, Amaryllis, Tuberose.

q, Perennials and bedding plants.

r,

I will give full directions for budding, which are applicable not only to Roses, but to all other plants and trees. I have taken the illustrations from Field's new book upon Pears, a very valuable work, and a great assistance to the cultivator.

Make cuttings.or layers of the China, Bengal, Tea-scented, and other Roses, for the winter and spring. Those made at this season will blossom next spring and summer. Make cuttings also of Heliotropes, Salvias, Lantanas, Verbenas, etc.

Read over the previous directions for the flower-garden.

Budding is to be performed when the plant is ready, rather than at any particular season.

Budding is, in fact, the same thing as grafting, but in practice it has some advantages over that method. In the graft there are several buds, but only a small portion of stock and graft can be united, and the junction must be effected between like and like; the albumen and young bark of the graft must grow upon the albumen and young bark of the stock.

In budding, a larger amount of these substances can be brought in contact.

The condition of the stock when to be budded, must be as follows: When a small slit is made lengthwise in the bark, and a smooth, hard, and thin instrument is introduced between the bark and the wood, the bark must leave the wood freely and smoothly, as that of the Willow separates when you make a boy's whistle. The stock must be tested several times to ascertain the condition of the bark. Most trees are in the best state in the spring, and if the bud were equally ready, budding could be done then as well as in the summer.

The usual time to begin budding is late July, August, and September; if done later than this, there is scarcely time enough for the bud to get securely attached to the wood before winter. The condition of the bud should be like that of the stock. The buds must be all well formed and fully ripe. I have said before, that the lower buds on a branch are generally too old and not well developed; the branch grew so rapidly that the lower buds were passed by, while the upper are not well matured and ripened; the middle buds will be ripe and well formed, and may be reasonably expected to thrive best when removed.

B

A

A shows a stick of such buds; the upper and lower ends of the shoot having been cut off; those that remain lie close to the stem, are well filled out, and the stick is straight and regular.

B shows buds which are too high on the stem, and too much elevated above the wood.

The bud must be cut smoothly and applied smoothly to the stock, every part of the bud, and particularly the base of the eye, coming in close contact with the mucous surface of the stock. Should a bud

be cut from B, you see at once that it could not be laid smoothly on the wood; there would be a cavity full of air directly under

the eye.

I said that buds might be set in the spring, if they were in a fit condition; one leading objection is the absence of leaves, and consequently the loss of the assistance which the footstalk under the bud offers as a handle during the process of setting.

A shows the buds with footstalks. B gives their appearance in the spring.

Having selected the stick of buds, the next thing to be done, is to remove them properly.

C

Let a (Fig. C) be the bud you are to remove; hold the stem in your left hand, and cut the bud out, beginning as far below the bud as you mean to come out above it, as is designated by the shaded lines. The woody side of the bud, when held towards you, will look like the centre lines, being the woody centre of the bud. Of course a bud so cut out will have on it a small shield-shaped piece of the wood of the branch from which it was cut. Many operators insert the bud, wood and all, into the stock, and very often the budding is