and, in proof of their opinion, point out fragments of ruins lying off this town, (visible when the sea is smooth and the tide low,) which they assert are the vestiges of that ancient edifice; while those who oppose that opinion, call these ruins the remains of ancient Cadiz. One fact may however be ascertained, both by these ruins and the general appearance of the shore, that the sea in this quarter has in the course of ages gained considerably on the land, and that the peninsula on which Cadiz stands was formerly much larger than it is at present. It is asserted, by some accurate observers, that while the sea without the streights of Gibraltar has incroached on the land, it has receded proportionably on the coast of Spain within the streights, especially at Malaga and Carthagena.

LETTER III.

CLIMATE-TEMPERANCE-GAMING- THEATRE- VISITING-LADIES; THEIR

ATTENDING THE CHURCHES-FEMALE INDEPENDENCE AND EDUCATION.

CADIZ, SEPT. 1809.

THE climate of Spain at this season is delightful and certainly tends to improve the spirits. The air is dry and clear, notwithstanding we are surrounded by water; the heat is not excessive, the thermometer seldom exceeding 70; and the walk in the evening by the sea side most refreshing and cool. The mode of living is also favourable to health and enjoyment, fruits and vegetables form the principal food even at the best tables; and though a species of cookery, approaching to French, is introduced at Cadiz, it is so combined with that which is purely Spanish, that the difference is scarcely to be distinguished. Very little wine is drunk during dinand immediately afterwards the gentlemen retire to coffee with the ladies. The habits of the Spaniards are very temperate and frugal, so far as regards the table and the furniture of their houses ; but they keep a much greater number of domestic servants than families of the same description in England.

ner,

In their dress and personal ornaments both the men and women are very extravagant, especially the latter; and I am told that the money expended on a lady's silk stockings and shoes alone (for they never walk out twice in the same) is enormous. Gaming forms the

vogue

principal amusement, and is carried to a very censurable extent in some of the private houses, where parties meet regularly every night and play for large sums at games of hazard. The game now in is called Monte, a species of lansquenet, but more complicated, requiring little skill and played for any sum the parties may chuse to stake, provided it does not exceed the amount in the bank: it is quickly decided and consequently the more dangerous. Another game, called "Pecado" in plain English Sin, is also much prac tised: it well deserves its name, for the decision is so very rapid that money to a large amount may be speedily gained or lost without the slightest exercise of the mind. At such parties the quantity of gold and silver spread on the table is astonishing; and the rapidity with which it passes from one possessor to another strikingly exemplifies the uncertainty of a gamester's wealth. I understand that whist, back-gammon and chess, are unknown among the Spaniards: they probably do not possess sufficient stimulus, and require more mental exertion than is congenial with the disposition of the people. One of the chief amusements of the higher class of inhabitants is the theatre, and as the performance begins early and continues only about three hours, it does not interfere with the more serious business of gaming which usually concludes the night.

The first time I visited the theatre the principal performance was a Spanish opera; a species of entertainment rather tiresome even in England, where every variety of decoration and machinery is liberally furnished, where the music is good, the dresses tasteful, and the language familiar to the ear; but in this place, where all these requisites are wanting, I should have found it a very unsatisfactory

mode of passing my time, if the company, the novelty of the scene and the varied dresses of the spectators, had not in some measure compensated its want of interest.

The house is not well calculated for hearing; it is long and narrow; the stage still narrower than the rest of the theatre. There is no gallery for the lower order of the people, and few of them ever attend a species of amusement for which they appear to have no taste; the people in Spain uniformly preferring a bull-fight or religious procession to any theatrical representation of life and man

ners.

Every part of the house is private property except one bench in front of the boxes, which is the resort of those who have no seats of their own. Most of the respectable families have a box to themselves, and single men a place in the pit; these are all numbered, and the seats turned up and locked, so that without the key no one can make use of them however crowded the house may be. In the front, and consequently at the greatest distance from the stage, is the box for the cabildo or city magistrates, but its situation is so remote that nothing can be heard distinctly even with the most painful attention. The stage-box belongs to the Governor, into which all British Officers are at present admitted. I had heard the Spanish dancing so highly spoken of that I expected a much greater gratification than I enjoyed from seeing their favourite dance the Volero ; to me, it appeared far inferior in grace and expression to many performances of a similar nature which I have seen both in London and at opera houses on the Continent. Almost every man in the theatre wore a uniform; but had an hundred thousand men been collected

from the different European armies, the officers could not have exhibited a greater variety of dresses than was displayed in this narrow compass; every one seems to wear his dress according to his own fancy, and deems it sufficient if it be military, without regarding its similarity to others of the same corps.

Adjoining the theatre there is a suite of coffee-rooms, where all kinds of refreshments are prepared for the company. In these apartments the ladies are seen drinking sangre, or iced water, and the gentlemen are employed in smoaking their segars, a practice which is carried to a disgusting excess.

The mode of visiting, after a first introduction, is very easy and familiar: you may enter the house at any hour, and, without being announced, proceed to the apartments of the family, where you generally meet agreeable company. On these occasions refreshments are seldom distributed beyond a glass of iced water, or a very cool liquor, called agrace, composed of the juice of unripe grapes, cooled with ice, and sweetened with sugar. The visit is always paid to the lady of the house, who is constantly dressed to receive company. Señora at whose house I most frequently visit, is a fine woman, has a large family, dresses well, talks a good deal, and is generally surrounded with visitors; indeed, dress, cards, and occasionally music, form the principal pursuits of the ladies.

I must not omit to mention one occupation in which they pass a large portion of their time. They daily frequent the churches, yet I fear their religious ceremonies are performed rather with a view to amuse than instruct. They kneel, it is true, before the altar, or humble themselves before the image of some saint-lisp a few

D

prayers