LETTER L. DOMINICAN CONVENT AT RONDA SINGULAR SITUATION OF ZAHARA DEPAR ALGAUCIN- VISIT TO THE CORREGIDOR · CHEERFUL EVENING ·ARRIVAL AT ST. ROQUE. ST. ROQUE, JAN. 1810. BEFORE we left Ronda, we visited the church of the Dominican convent, to see some paintings in fresco of Alonzo Vasquez, a native of that city, who, about the year 1598, obtained considerable celebrity among his contemporaries. Some of his pictures are preserved in the cathedral of Seville, and in the collections of the amateurs of that city. The paintings in the church of the Dominicans are not in good preservation, nor do they, in my judgment, justify his high reputation. Those in the cloisters of the Franciscan convent of Seville are much superior, having probably been executed when he had obtained a greater proficiency in his art. In the cloister of this convent we saw, what I have frequently observed, but not mentioned to you before, the words "aqui se sacan las animas," literally, here souls are drawn; importing that masses are said in this place for the liberation of souls from purgatory. We passed the first hour and an half after leaving Ronda, in ascending the hills to the southward of the city. When we had gained the summit, the view was extensive and delightful, stretching to the westward towards Xeres and St. Lucar, while to the south we beheld Gibraltar, and the distant mountains of Africa. The rock of Gibraltar, from the eminence, appeared merely a molehill, when compared with Apes-hill on the coast of Africa, though the latter was five or six leagues farther from us. From this elevation, our whole journey to Algaucin was a continual descent, which occupied nine hours. The road runs along the ridge of hills, which gradually become lower, with spacious and fertile vallies on both sides. These hills, to the tops, are covered with vines, which are not much attended to by their proprietors. Very little wine is made in this district, though the vineyards are extensive, as their produce is generally appropriated to making vinegar or brandy. We observed several towns in the most romantic situations, which appeared to be almost inaccessible, more especially one upon our right, the singularity of which, and the difficulty of reaching it, surpassed all the others; we passed on its eastern side, and some passengers informed us, that the only path to it was in the opposite direction, and was accessible only to asses and mules. This town was built by the Moors, and is called Zahara. The streets and houses are scooped out of the solid rock, and the descent down the precipices at the backs of the habitations, which are close to its edge, must be, on the sides from which we viewed it, at least twelve hundred feet. The other towns, which are placed in positions of similar strength, are numerous, and imprint on the face of the country the strong marks of that Y Y feudalism, which, for ages, gave a character to Spain, the traces of which are still visible in the habits of the people, and will probably become indelibly imprinted by the futile attempts of France to subdue this country to its yoke. At Algaucin, though the second city in the Sierra de Ronda, and peopled by ten thousand inhabitants, the only posada was most miserably dirty, and destitute of even the homely bedding to which we have lately been accustomed: we applied, therefore, to the corregidor, who sent for the alcalde, and directed him to order the alguazil to furnish us with the three best beds in the vicinity of our wretched hotel. It was easy to see, by the manner of this magistrate, that the request was not unusual, and his orders were arranged with the utmost dispatch; but being at the house of this officer, either his politeness or his loquacity detained us by a long political conversation; which, if it did not discover enlarged ideas, was yet not destitute of patriotism. His views and conversation were confined merely to the expulsion of the French from his own province, for it seemed to be the feeling of his mind, that the Andalusians alone ought to defend Andalusia, the Valencians, Valencia, and the Catalans, Catalonia ; but that Spain, as one kingdom having a common interest, should be so organized as to draw all exertions to a common centre, and by a union of efforts concentrate its force, and liberate itself from the evils that assail it, never seemed to have entered into the contemplation of this man. The narrow views of this individual are, I am persuaded, conformable to those of most of the inhabitants; they feel for the fate of their own town or province, but not for the fate of Spain: they invent plans, and organize troops, for the protection of their immediate district, while the general defence of the country is neglected. We were on very friendly terms with this magistrate, and during our visit, many of his neighbours paid their respects to him, and joined in our conversation; while, on a bed on the floor of the same apartment, his daughter, a young lady of about eighteen, who was sick, related all her symptoms to us with as much freedom as if we had been her physicians. Algaucin is finely situated on the ridge of a hill, whence a beautiful glacis, terminating in the valleys on either side, is covered with fruits, vineyards, and corn fields. On the pinnacle of a rock above the town, an ancient fort, of Moorish construction, produces a striking appearance; while the river Guadiaro in the valley beneath, completes the beauty of the scene. In this place there are some mineral springs, which are administered for the cure of various diseases: one in particular has the property of rendering the use soap unnecessary in the operation of washing. of I was much pleased with the frankness and simplicity, and I must add the politeness of the family on which I was billeted. After a miserable meal, when I retired to my quarters, they were all assembled, and received me in the kindest manner. The conversation naturally turned on Englishmen, of whom their only knowledge seemed to be derived from such of their neighbours as had visited Gibraltar. The females expressed surprise, that the English, who were powerful enough to keep that fortress in defiance of Spain, had not been able to conquer France: they were unacquainted with the intelligence which the corregidor possessed, that the enemy had entered into Andalusia, and therefore felt the fullest confidence, that the united powers of two such countries as England and Spain must soon succeed in exterminating the French. It would have been cruel to have communicated information which could only have embittered the passing moments, and have been of no use in preventing the threatened calamities. Till a late hour, the evening was spent with much vivacity and cheerfulness. According to the custom of the country, successive visitors entered and departed without ceremony, and perhaps the number was increased from curiosity to see and converse with an Englishman. The guitar was introduced, the fandango was danced, patriotic songs were sung in full chorus, and innocent hilarity continued throughout the evening. Though I could complain of nothing like impertinence, the curiosity of the family was excessive; my portfolio, containing implements for drawing and writing, my snuff-box, seals, razor-case, and even the buttons of my coat, were examined with minute attention, and excited no small degree of surprise; but the camera lucida produced crossings, and the exclamation of " the English are the very devil." According to the custom of Spanish families, no refreshment but water was presented, and I have no doubt but after their evening meal, the whole stock, both of liquor and provisions, was exhausted, and the supply for the next day must depend on the nearest shop. In the morning, I offered money for my bed, which was declined; and I perceived that I had given them more gratification by presenting each of the ladies with a printed card of my address in London, and an impression of my seal on the back of it, than I could have done by any pecuniary present. At a more early hour than the protracted enjoyment of the pre |