lake survey, or of a single light-house district, was considered ample duty for one officer. With triple duty on my hands, and instructions that forbade my devoting any time to the report that interfered with my other duties; without assistants who were engaged on the expedition, or who were familiar with such duty, I trust that it will not be considered strange that the presentation of the report has been delayed, or that I should be ready to admit its many and great imperfections. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, W. F. RAYNOLDS, Lieut. Col. Engineers, and Brt. Brig. General. Brevet Major General A. A. HUMPHREYS, Chief of Engineers U. S. Army, Washington, D. C. REPORT OF BREVET COLONEL W. F. RAYNOLDS, U. S. A., CORPS OF ENGINEERS, ON THE EXPLORATION OF THE YELLOWSTONE AND MISSOURI RIVERS, IN 1859-'60. Table of contents. 1. Captain Raynolds's report and journal. 2. Lieutenant Maynadier's report. 3. Reports of detached parties. *4. Table of latitudes. 5. Table of chronometer errors. *6. Meteorological observations and barometer heights-Fort Pierre to Deer creek-Captain Raynolds, 1859. *7. Meteorological observations and barometer heights-Fort Sarpy to Deer creek-Lieutenant Maynadier, 1859. *8. Meteorological observations and barometer heights, from Deer creek to Fort Pierre, Captain Raynolds, 1860. *9. Meteorological observations and barometer heights, from Stinking river to Omaha, Lieutenant Maynadier, 1860. *10. Meteorological observations at Deer creek. *11. Meteorological observations at Fort Pierre. *12. Report on geology by Dr. F. V. Hayden. *13. Report on fossil plants by Professor J. S. Newberry. *14. Report on birds by Dr. Elliott Coues. *15. Report on mammals. *16. Catalogue of plants by Dr. George Engleman. *17. Report on carices by Professor Chester Dewey. OFFICE LAKE SURVEY, Detroit, 1867. SIR: After spending the greater part of the previous winter on duty at the southern part of Florida, on the 6th of April, 1859, I was summoned by telegram to Washington, where I received the first intimation that it was the intention of the department to assign to me the important duty of exploring the extensive, and then almost unknown, country drained by the Upper Missouri and Yellowstone rivers. My entire want of previous preparation for this duty is offered as an explanation of the many deficiencies that I am conscious exist in the performance of the duty assigned to me. *Not Printed. The following are the instructions under which the exploration was made: "WAR DEPARTMent, Office ExPLORATIONS AND Surveys, "SIR: Under clauses of the military appropriation acts, providing for 'surveys for military defences, geographical explorations and reconnoissauces for military purposes,' I am directed by the Secretary of War to instruct you to organize au expedition for the exploration of the region of country through which flow the principal tributaries of the Yellowstone river, and of the mountains in which they, and the Gallatin and Madison forks of the Missouri, have their source. The objects of this exploration are to ascertain, as far as practicable, every thing relating to the numbers, habits and disposition of the Indians inhabiting the country, its agricultural and mineralogical resources, its climate and the influences that govern it, the navigability of its streams, its topographica features, and the facilities or obstacles which the latter present to the construction of rail or common roads, either to meet the wants of military operations or those of emigration through, or settlement in, the country. "Particular attention should be given to determining the most direct and feasible routes: "1. From the neighborhood of Fort Laramie to the Yellowstone, in the direetion of Fort Union, on the Missouri. 2. From the neighborhood of Fort Laramie northwesterly, along the base of the Big Horn mountains, towards Fort Benton and the Bitter Root valley. "3. From the Yellowstone to the South pass, and to ascertaining the practicability of a route from the sources of Wind river to those of the Missouri. "To accomplish these objects most effectually the expedition should proceed by the Missouri river to Fort Pierre. Here a large number of the Dakotas will be assembled to receive their annuities, and overtures should be made to obtain their assent to your proceeding to the source of Powder river by the Shayenne and its north fork, by which a new route leading west from the Missouri river would be examined. To aid you in accomplishing this object, the clothing, et cetera, to be given to the Dakotas by the government, under the treaty made with them by General Harney, will be turned over to you by the Indian Bureau for distribution. "From the source of Powder river the expedition should proceed down that stream to its mouth; thence along the Yellowstone to the mouth of Tongue river, up which a detachment should be sent to its source. The remainder of the party should continue on the Yellowstone to the mouth of Big Horn river, and ascend the latter stream to the point where it leaves the mountains. Here the two divisions of the party should be united. The approach of winter may require the expedition to pass that season in this neighborhood, or if time suffices, the expedition may ascend the Big Horn river to Wind river, where a favorable wintering place can be found. "The next season should be spent in examining the mountain region about the sources of the Yellowstone and Missouri, to ascertain the character of the routes leading south and west from the navigable parts of those rivers. On returning one party should descend the Missouri, using skin boats to Fort Benton, where a Mackinac boat should be in readiness. The other portion should descend the Yellowstone, in skin boats, to its mouth, where it should join the party with the Mackinac boat, and all proceed to the settlements. With a pack train it would not, perhaps, be practicable to carry more than three months' full supply of provisions, but the abundance of game in much of this region renders it unnecessary to provide the usual quantity of bread and bacon. "The following places are convenient as depots, and you should make your arrangements accordingly, viz: The Platte Bridge, Fort Laramie, and the American Fur Company's posts, Fort Alexander Sarpy, Fort Benton, and Fort Union. If the Dakotas should withhold their consent to the expedition proceeding up the valley of the Shayenne, and you should not deem it advisable to make that examination without their consent, the expedition will proceed to Fort Clark or Fort Union, and move to the Yellowstone near the mouth of Powder river. "You will use your own judgment in modifying the plan proposed in the event of any unforeseen circumstances or physical obstacles preventing an adherence to it. "You will endeavor by all the means in your power to conciliate and gain the friendship of the different Indian tribes you may meet, and will assure them of the good will of the government, and of its protection in all their rights. You are authorized to purchase Indian goods to be used in compensating the Indians for their services when required, and for purchasing from them such articles as you may need. By thus securing their friendly co-operation you will not only be relieved from danger of interruption, but be enabled to obtain from them much valuable information which would be withheld if you were obliged to enter their country in a hostile attitude. "To aid you in the discharge of these duties, you are authorized to employ eight assistants as topographers, geologist and naturalist, astronomer, meteorologist, physician, &c., at an average salary not exceeding $125 per month, and to pay their actual travelling expenses to and from the field of operations, and to subsist them while in the field. You will procure your assistants, employés, equipment, supplies, &c., at those points which seem to ensure the most economical and effective organization for the party. The sum of $60,000 will be set aside from the appropriations to defray the expenses of the expedition, which amount your expenditures must not exceed. "The colonel of topographical engineers will be directed to supply you with such instruments as you may require on your requisition. 66 The commanding general of the Department of the West will be directed to detail an escort of 30 picked men of the infantry, under the command of a lieutenant, who will report to you for duty. "Transportation for the provision and equipage of the escort, their subsistence and their necessary ammunition, will be furnished respectively by the quartermasters', commissary, and ordnance departments. "The quartermasters', commissary, medical, and ordnance departments will be directed to furnish, as far as practicable, all necessary transportation, provisions, arms, and supplies, those required for the civil employés to be paid for at cost prices at the place of delivery, from the appropriation for the expedition. "All necessary transportation, provisions, arms, and supplies which you cannot obtain from those departments, and all minor instruments, books, and drawing materials, will be purchased out of the appropriation for the exploration. "You will communicate with the department through this office, to which you will make the reports and returns required by regulations of an officer of engineers in charge of a work or operation, and such other reports, transmitted as often as the means of communication will allow, as will keep the department apprised of your various movements, and the progress of the expedition under your charge. On the completion of your field duty you will return, with your assistants to Washington, and prepare the maps and reports necessary to a full exposition of the results of the expedition. "Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 66 "Captain W. F. RAYNOLDS, 66 “A. A. HUMPHREYS, Captain Topographical Engineers in charge. Corps Topographical Engineers, Washington." The district that I was thus ordered to explore is bounded on the north by the British possessions, on the east by the Missouri river, on the south by the Niobrara and the Platte, and on the west by the dividing ridge of the Rocky mountains, thus extending from the 43° to 49° of north latitude, and from the 100th to the 113th meridian of longitude west of Greenwich. Its dimensions are thus 650 miles east and west measurement, and nearly 400 north and south, while its area is about 250,000 square miles, nearly one-fourth larger than all of France, or than the kingdoms of Spain and Portugal, and more than double the area of Great Britain. Previous explorations in this region were confined almost exclusively to the immediate vicinity of the great rivers, or penetrated only to the borders of the district named. Lewis and Clarke in 1804'-5-'6 ascended the Missouri, crossed the continent, and returned by the Yellowstone. I can testify to the wonderful accuracy of their descrip tions of localities, but their geographical positions are not always reliable. Nicollet in 1839 reached Fort Pierre. His investigations and determinations of positions were such as characterize all the labors of that eminent savant. Governor Stevens in 1852, in his railroad expedition, confined his explorations mainly to the Missouri river, or to the country north of that stream, above the mouth of the Yellowstone. Lieutenant Warren, topographical engineers, explored the Black Hills in 1855, and ascended the Yellowstone, as far as the mouth of Powder river, in 1856, determining accurately his positions and adding greatly to previous knowledge of these localities. "Bonneville's Adventures" and "Astoria," two of Irving's delightful sketches, are accounts of adventures, many of which were located in this district, but it is difficult to trace the routes travelled, and no reliable data are given for geographical positions. Several other expeditions were conducted along the Missouri, mainly with the view of determining the geological features; but none of these added much to our geographical knowledge. The fur companies in their dealings with the Indians have for years had their agents travelling in all parts of this country, but their journeyings have had no scientific character or value. All preliminary informa tion in regard to the interior of this vast region was thus exceedingly vague and unsatisfactory. The district is naturally divided in a marked manner into three great sections. Of these the eastern is drained by several streams having a general easterly course and emptying into the Missouri. The middle division comprises the entire drainage of the Yellowstone, whose main branches all possess a northerly course. The third division, includes the drainage of the southern and eastern bankof the Missouri, above the Yellowstone. Aside from these general features, which suggest themselves at a glance at the map, there are some minor topographical facts of interest that can be stated. About latitude 38°, near the Spanish peaks, the main-dividing crest of the continent takes a westerly trend, and from this point branches off an outlying chain running nearly north and south. This, as it gradually diverges from the range, forms the eastern boundary of the "parks," in which the Arkansas and the Platte have their sources. Near latitude 41° the main crest trends still more rapidly to the westward, enclosing between it and the outlying range a wide and comparatively level tract, known as the "Laramie plains," which may be regarded as a fourth "park." In this series of "parks" the most striking feature is the northerly course of all the streams. The south fork of the Platte rises in the South park, and runs nearly north for more than 100 miles before it turns suddenly to the east. The Middle park is drained by the head-waters of the Colorado, which also have a northerly course of about 50 miles before leaving it. The North park is drained by the north fork of the Platte, and this stream flows in a northerly course for 150 miles and, passing through the Laramie plains, unites with the Sweetwater, after which it assumes the general easterly course of the Platte. These same general fea The tures of topography obtain on an enlarged scale north of the Platte. outlying spur, indeed, loses its great elevation and becomes rather a divided than a mountain range, but it continues in a northerly course, striking the Missouri river near the mouth of the Yellowstone in latitude 48°, and still affects the course of the rivers and the formation of the country. The great divergence of the main-divide to the northwest makes the distance here between it and this outlying ridge very great, and the clearly defined parks are found along the base of the former; of these there are three, namely, the valleys of the upper Big Horn, of the upper Yellowstone, and of the three forks of the Missouri, which are basins surrounded by mountain ridges, with the streams all tending northward. Between these minor parks and the outlier are the great valleys of the Yellowstone and the Upper Missouri. The course of the outlier in its southern part is marked by lofty peaks, (among which may be mentioned Pike's, Long's, and Laramie,) but north of the Platte the Little Missouri buttes form its most prominent landmarks, and it soon sinks, as stated above, to a mere prairie ridge, although at the mouth of the Yellowstone it is so prominent that it attracted the attention of the earliest travellers in that country. Eastward of this ridge the country to the Missouri is (as far as we explored it) the high, broken prairie of the west, presenting no serious obstacles to travel; and the Black Hills lying eastward of and contiguous to the outlier, and rising to a height of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the general level, was the only marked instance of upheaval we encountered in this immense plain. South of this great tract visited by the expedition are found the valleys of the Kansas and Arkansas rivers, with their tributaries, having a generally easterly course, similar to that which characterizes the Platte after leaving the mountains. RIVERS TRIBUTARIES OF THE MISSOURI. North of the Platte, the principal streams flowing eastward are the White, Niobrara, Shayenne, Moreau, Palanata or Grand, Cannon Ball, and Heart rivers. Of these, the White and Niobrara, receiving their supply of water from the outliers of the Black Hills and the high lands north of the Platte, are large streams, and always contribute considerable water to the Missouri. The Shayenne is much the most important tributary between the Platte and Yellowstone. It is formed by two main branches which entirely surround and drain the Black Hills, and as it receives its water from the numerous mountain streams of this district, its supply is much more constant and reliable than that of any of the other rivers to the north. Its valley below the forks is from half to three-quarters of a mile in width of alluvial soil, and covered with a heavy growth of bottom grass. Beautiful cotton-wood groves fringe its banks throughout its whole length. This portion of the river receives several tributaries, but all are prairie streams, and consequently contain little water during a great portion of the year. The river-bed, is mainly quicksand, and great care is consequently requisite in finding fords. The bluffs bordering the valley below the forks are bold, and in most instances access to the river bottom from the neighboring plains is difficult if not impracticable. Wherever the bluffs have been subjected to the action of water they present the stratified clay formation of the "bad lands." Above the forks the bluffs are found close to the stream, and the valley becomes narrower. The tributaries are clear, and constant mountain creeks flowing through beautiful valleys. The whole region of the Black Hills is unquestionably destined at no distant date to afford homes for a thriving population. The mountains will furnish a sufficient supply of pine lumber for ordinary uses, and, although timber is very scarce in the region as a whole, yet the Black Hills will fully supply this great deficiency in the district immediately adjoining. |