common in Great Britain throughout ancient times, and even among the higher classes of society-as, for instance, King Robert the Bruce, who died of leprosy-the disease now seldom or ever attacks any indigenous person if he has never quitted his native country; the most recently recorded example being one Dr. Webster mentioned during a late meeting of the Royal Medical and Chirurgical Society, of a man whose death by that disease occurred in 1851 at Guy's Hospital. When readers remember St. James's Palace was first built as a leper-house, and that there existed formerly upwards of one hundred such institutions in England and Scotland-that of Sherburne, near Durham, even containing sixty-five inmates-whereas leprosy is rarely seen at present, better evidence can be scarcely adduced to demonstrate the improved physical state of the general population.

Among the numerous religious establishments of Granada, though many are now tenantless, or appropriated to secular purposes, the Carthusian convent, a little way into the country, ought to be visited. From the chapel-terrace a splendid view of the Vega and gorge of Muelin may be obtained, showing that holy friars, whatever might have been their designation, always had an eye to beautiful situations and physical comforts. There is nothing remarkable in the architecture of this extensive building, excepting the gorgeous ornaments and expensive materials employed in constructing the chapel. The great door leading from the convent into this sanctum is made of tortoiseshell, ivory, and cedarwood, all being exceedingly beautiful. The chapel itself is richly gilded, having many finely-carved stalls for the monks, while the presses for containing their clerical dresses, both in material and workmanship, were magnificent. Splendour and luxury forming the chief characteristics in this appendage to the habitation of parties who may have called themselves poor soldiers of Christ, but became, in reality, luxurious drones, often doing nothing. The corridor ought especially to be examined by every Englishman who may visit its precincts, as he will then learn some alleged facts in the history of his own country, respecting which he was doubtlessly, till then, wholly ignorant.

On the walls of this enclosure there is a series of fresco-looking paintings, which pretend to represent the cruelties suffered by Carthusians during the reign of Henry VIII. in England. For instance, in one of these representations a friar has a spear thrust through his body. In another a man is felling a Carthusian with an axe. In a third, angels are rescuing several holy martyrs from their tormentors. One represents four monks dragged to execution, while three are hanging from a gibbet. Besides other representations which may be here observed, each equally absurd. They are, however, curious, and indicate with what kind of legends the followers of St. Bruno attempted to delude, if not themselves, at least others, whose minds they wished to enslave through false statements and superstition. The sanctuary also should not be forgotten, as here no expense seems to have been spared. Such a splendid collection of beautiful marble ornaments on every part is quite extraordinary, and seldom, if ever, seen elsewhere. The cabinets of cedar-wood, motherof-pearl, tortoiseshell, and other valuables, are really superb. Indeed, in no other part of Europe, unless at the Carthusian church near Pavia, in Lombardy, has the writer ever noticed anything at all analogous to this

But their glory has

convent of the same order of friars near Granada. departed. The whole flock-about one hundred and twenty-having been expelled from this oft well-stocked fold, when all religious orders were suppressed in Spain. Solitude and desolation now reign everywhere. The garden lies waste; the refectory, dormitories, and every other appurtenance are no longer occupied. While the ample store-rooms, which formerly contained abundant provisions, being now empty, a colony of mice would likely starve in places which, during olden times, overflowed with abundance. But matters are now entirely changed in reference to lazy monks, as they have been all turned adrift, with the option of either becoming useful citizens at home, or of expatriating themselves to lands more congenial in their estimation.

Another convent also merits inspection, which has been recently converted to a more mundane purpose-viz. that of St. Jeronimo. It is now a cavalry barrack, where war-horses frequently caper over the handsome court that was formerly a promenade for spiritual soldiers of the Church militant. Besides the chief patio with circular arches, marble pillars, and Gothic balustrades-well worth seeing-this building also contains several objects of interest; among which the sepulchre of the great captain deserves special notice. The tomb formerly contained the bones of that greatest of Spanish generals; but popular favour being sometimes fickle, the mob, which broke into this convent at its suppression in 1836, not only destroyed everything, but even scattered the warrior hero's mortal remains, and those of his wife, to the winds; while the French, during the Peninsular war, carried off Gonsalvo's sword, pulled down his banners, and so completed the ruin of this celebrated monument. Another convent, that of St. Domingo, has a fine colonnade in the court, and now forms the museum of Granada. It contains a number of pictures, but none of any great value. However, the place should be visited, if only to admire the figures of saints and apostles carved on its chapel stalls, which are very good, and of a superior description as works of manual artistic labour. Several other ecclesiastical remains, as also Moslem antiquities, deserve record; but to do so would require more time and space than are now at command, consequently they must be omitted; remarking nevertheless, that no locality throughout Spain is so interesting as this ancient Moorish capital, or so well deserves being inspected by foreigners, who always feel far more pleased with what they there see, than even the natives themselves. In the present critic's opinion, Granada, and especially its Alhambra, constitutes the sight of the entire Peninsula.

may

be

Although all the monasteries in Spain, which formerly formed the "habitat" of the now extinct genus "monk," are now empty, it interesting to English readers if informed that, in many Peninsula cities, the institutions for such inmates were numerous. For example, Malaga had 15 convents for men only; Barcelona 19, in which 1212 monks at one time resided; Ecija, 20; Valencia, 24; Toledo, 38; Salamanca, 39, where historians also counted eleven thousand virgins; Granada, 40; Cordoba, 44; Madrid, 66; and lastly, Sevilla, which contained not less than 84 before their suppression; the most magnificent in the latter city being the Franciscan. This superb convent had fifteen cloisters, and apartments for two hundred resident monks; many of these being both elegant and spacious. Like the Cartuja at Granada, all convents

are now without clerical occupants; and when it is considered that many of the useless residents of these palaces were connected with some of the first families in the country, turning out the drones from such hives of idleness was a great triumph, and has proved highly beneficial in its consequences. At the end of the last century, it is said eight thousand nine hundred and thirty-two monasteries existed throughout Spain, whose inmates were all condemned to celibacy; some having large revenues, as, for instance, that of San Lorenzo at the Escurial. That receptacle of idleness usually contained one hundred and sixty friars, and had an annual income of at least fifty thousand pounds, arising partly from lands, and partly from immense flocks of Merino sheep which they possessed. The fraternity, therefore, besides their other functions, being great graziers, were hence, in more ways than one, extensive wool-gatherers, as also fleecers of the community.

to

Analogous to most Spanish cities, Granada possesses its public promenades, in which the élite of society are accustomed "tomar el fresco"-to breathe the fresh air-towards nightfall. The Alameda has many umbrageous trees, which keep the foot and carriage-way under a deep shade; but it is little frequented, the Carrera de Xenil being the favourite rendezvous. On Sunday evening, about sunset, this place was crowded with well-dressed ladies in veils, carrying fans, attired as if going to a party, and enjoying the delightful evening breeze, or conversation, as if they were at a tertulia. The scene looked gay; and as several carriages, then containing fashionable-looking persons, and drawn by mules, were also present, the spectacle became pleasing; while the Sierra Nevada mountain-still capped with snow-being seen in the distance, at the same time that numerous fountains scattered their cool refreshing waters around, this promenade appeared, in some respects, superior to the Rambla at Barcelona. Close by is a church, which was then open. Here it seemed odd for female visitants to leave the Carrera and enter within, say their evening prayers; as if they had not been so gaily engaged only a few minutes previously. Some remained only a short time, but others much longer; while several even made their devotions rather a serious affair, seeing that immediately the church threshold was passed, down they fell on their knees, and then slowly crawled along one side of the centre aisle, till they got opposite the high altar. There, prayers were muttered, a string of beads counted, and having devoutly crossed themselves, they now returned-but still crawling-by the opposite side towards the door; where, having dipped their fingers in holy water, and again crossed themselves, they returned to the promenade. This seemed a singular exhibition, although common in Spain; and as silence, with almost total darkness, from the want of candles, characterised the whole assemblage, it became very curious to see numerous black kneeling female figures sailing along the hard dirty stones in a line, like boats on a smooth lake. The effect thereby produced was ludicrous, and very different from solemn; at least in an Englishman's estimation. While to many fair votaries, thus using their bare knees instead of leather-shod feet, unpleasant consequences must have ensued, especially as the male part of the congregation frequently spat without ceremony; and Spanish saliva being always tainted with tobacco, the custom is more offensive. There

fore soap, water, and a towel, must have been in requisition soon afterwards.

No Spanish town of even provincial importance being complete without possessing a theatre and plaza de toros, of course Granada has both these appendages to amuse its idle population. However, at the season when these sketches were written, as neither of the above-named places of amusement was open, they need not be further mentioned. The Cockpit Circus was likewise closed, although it constitutes, next to bull-baiting, a favourite resort for Granadino majos, both in high and low degree. But had it been otherwise, certainly that barbarous pastime, of looking at two courageous animals lacerating each other to death, would never have been witnessed by the writer on any consideration. Such horrid sport exhibits nothing national like bull-fighting; and as the latter can be only seen in the Peninsula, curious foreigners in search of originality may therefore be excused should they for once in their lives visit a plaza de toros. On the other hand, however, let them always eschew "alectoromachy."

Notwithstanding the numerous interesting objects worthy of examination at Granada, besides the many historical associations therewith connected, after all novelty has ceased, even this curious city then begins to seem dull, and leads the stranger to think of his departure. Some may make excursions in the neighbourhood with much advantage, while those who like the fatigue of ascending mountains can climb to the summit of the Sierra Nevada. The present traveller being quite satisfied with viewing that stupendous snowy height from the public promenade, then felt no inclination for such an undertaking, any more than what he experienced when admiring either Mont Blanc or Monte Rosa at a distance, during a holiday tour made some years ago in Switzerland. All high mountains form very fine adjuncts to any landscape; and although the Sierra Nevada is far under either of the former in altitude, that fact did not induce him to attempt such feats, however beautiful it appeared in the cloudless horizon. Being so near, a piercing wind sometimes blows down towards Granada, whereby the summer heat becomes moderated. This occurred on one of the evenings passed by the writer on the Carrera de Xenil, when the air actually felt chilly, even while a burning sun shone in the western hemisphere. During winter the entire Sierra is often covered with snow. Then the weather becomes exceedingly ungenial, and hence injurious to health; while in spring, from the snow melting rapidly, serious inundations take place, which cause much injury. Whereas, the reverse follows during summer, as indicated by the late dry condition of the Xenil and Darro rivers, little rain having fallen for several months. From these and other local influences, Granada cannot be deemed a health-restoring country for invalids, although the spring climate is reported as often pleasant. Further, the winters are frequently cold, while summer proves very hot, unless when Sierra Nevada blasts reduce the atmospheric temperature.

EASTERN AFRICA.

French Intrigues-Pigmies and Snow-Mountains.*

THE manifest design of France to found in Africa an empire to rival, if not eclipse, British India, of which empire Algeria, connected by Timbuktu and the Niger with Senegal, is to be the western portion, destined with the progress of time to absorb the whole patrimony of the Moors; Egypt, of whose abasement the occupation of the isthmus by a party of armed ouvriers may be looked upon as the ominous forerunner, to be the north-eastern; Zula or Adule, and the islands of Annesley Bay-the ancient Sinus Aduliticus-and the finest haven in the Red Sea, to be, with the dominions of the recreant Ubie of Tigray and Theodore of Abyssinia, the eastern; Madagascar, the south-eastern; and the Nile, connected by the Chadda or Binue, and the Bahr al Gazal with the Niger and with the Shari and Lake Tshad, completing, as it does, the circle of anticipated conquest, and constituting Sudan or Nigritia as the centre of African empire, impart, with the progress of recent discovery, more especially in the neighbourhood of the "Lake District," justly so designated, a new and unforeseen interest to African exploration and to African topics.

6

"The mere fact," as Ravenstein remarks in his introduction to the work before us, “of the isthmus being part of the Turkish Empire or of Egypt, would not deter France from occupying it; for scruples of conscience are not allowed by that nation to interfere with political ideas.' Zula has been chosen as the second station on the route to Madagascar, and while the occupation of Suez may at will furnish a pretext for seizing upon Egypt, that of Zula may open Abyssinia to French conquest. Fortunately there is a power which can put a veto upon those plans of aggrandisement in north-eastern Africa, and that power is Great Britain. Gibraltar, Malta, Perim and Aden form a magnificent line of military and naval stations on the route to India, and perfectly command it. Only after having converted the last three into French strongholds, and thus striking a decisive blow at the naval supremacy of Great Britain, could France ever hope to carry out her designs."

Massawah, Massowa, and Muccawah, as it is variously spelt, possibly from Ma-Saba ("os" or "portus" Saba), constituted in former time, like Adule, a port of the Sabæans of Meroe, then a port of Abyssinia, till it was occupied by the Turks in the seventeenth century with the neighbouring littoral, and has remained subject to them ever since. The nayyibs, substitute or lieutenant-governors, were appointed by the Pasha of Jedda; they kept the littoral in subjection, restricted commerce to

* Travels, Researches, and Missionary Labours, during an Eighteen Years' Residence in Eastern Africa, &c. &c. By the Rev. Dr. J. Lewis Krapf. With an Appendix and a Concise Account of Geographical Researches by G. G. Ravenstein, F.R.G.S. Trübner and Co.

Travels in Eastern Africa; with the Narrative of a Residence in Mozambique. By Lyons M'Leod, Esq., F.R.G.S., &c. &c., late H.B.M. Consul at Mozambique. Two Vols. Hurst and Blackett.