centre, by means of which it effectually preserves the grain, not only from dampness, but from the attack of any vermin whatsoever. In this pastoral country, like that of the patriarchs of old, the riches of the Circassians consists in the number of their flocks and herds, to which we may add their wives and children. Those of my host, Ghatkhe Atiokhai, were numerous, and remarkably fine, particularly the horses, the greatest attention being paid by every Circassian to their breed, which are highly esteemed in the neighboring countries, Russia and Turkey; and I remarked, that the character with which the cattle were branded bore some resemblance to the Grecian alphabet. During our rambles through the grounds, we found the wives and children of my host, with their slaves, employed at agricultural pursuits, or tending flocks and herds. Some were engaged in reaping, others in milking the cows; and one fine looking princess, with the force of an Amazon, was repairing a wooden fence with a hatchet. Among the children there was a remarkable good-looking, curly-headed boy, and a girl, about eight or nine years of age, who seemed, in an especial degree to possess the affection of the father. I was just in the act of extolling the beauty of the children, when I was fortunately checked in time by the captain; for though, in Europe, you win the heart of a parent by praising his offspring; yet here, for the same compliment, you are accused of intending to extend over them the malign influence of the evil eye. The young urchins were not inappropriately named the "Look of a Lion," and the "Speed of a Deer," for the one was playing with the half-wild horses as if they were kittens, while the fair young princess displayed the utmost agility in driving her refractory charge of goats, cows, and buffaloes, to water. The women of Circassia are not, as in other parts of the east, completely confined to the harem, nor are they altogether obliged to conceal their features with the veil from the observation of the stranger, that article of dress being worn more as a shelter from the sun, when taking the air, and, in-doors, as a graceful form of head dress. The wives of my host were habited in a species of white garment, made from camel or goat's hair, which enveloped the whole form. To this was added a muslin veil, and you cannot think how picturesque was the effect when viewed from a distance. The sanctum sanctorum, in which were lodged the women and children, in addition to being closed with a wooden fence, was completely concealed from view by the thick foliage of groves of trees. Here are also the sheds for the cattle; the remainder of the cots being either set apart for the reception of strangers, or inhabited by the dependents of the chief. There might have been altogether about six or seven; the whole built of hurdles, plastered inside and out, and neatly thatched with reeds and Indian corn leaves. Each cot contained two rooms: the one with a large fire place in the centre, appropriated to cooking and domestic purposes, somewhat resembled that of an old English farm-house, having pot-hooks and hangers, while the other answered the double purpose of a sittingroom and dormitory. A chequered mat, of variegated colors, covered the floor; and a divan surrounded three sides of the room: the only additional furniture being a few small tables, about a foot in height, and something resembling a chest of drawers; unless, indeed, we include the saddles, bridles, housings, and weapons, that hung suspended against the walls. These occupied by the ladies of the chieftain and their slaves, were furnished in a similar manner; the only additional decoration, presume by the way of ornament, were shelves loaded with glass, china, and bright culinary utensils, made of brass, copper, or glazed pottery, intended more for show than use. There was also a grand display, hanging upon lines across the room, of the various specimens of female industry, such as embroidered napkins, handkerchiefs, veils, and costly dresses, glittering with gold and silver. In one corner was a heap of matresses, and in another pillows and coverlets covered with a gay muslin quilt of various colors, but most studiously arranged, so as to show the ends of each, which were decked with satin, sprigged with gold and silver; and it is but justice to the fair dames to say, that every thing was kept remarkably clean and neat. Of every part of the dwelling of this primitive people, the little verandah, in fine weather, is the greatest favorite; this is generally furnished with a mat and a bench for a divan. Here the visiter is regaled; here the improvisatore chants the warlike songs of his nation; the story-teller relates the traditionary tale. Its cool shade offers an agreeable retreat from the burning sun, for taking the noon-day siesta, or for indulging in the delights of the darling tchibouque. It was beneath the shade of that of my hospitable host, towards the close of the evening, while sipping our coffee and smoking our tchibouques, in company with him and his wives, the fair princesses, Nazeek and Djanteen, who whiffed theirs with as much gusto as a German student, that a young warrior arrived, at the head of a train of young men about his own age, all well armed and mounted upon splendid horses. The young prince, who was remarkable for the symmetry of his athletic form and the frankness and sincerity expressed in his countenance, was introduced to me as the cousin of my host, the son of one of the Khapsoukhe chiefs, called Beitzroukou. His visit was for the double purpose of arranging commercial relations with the captain for a supply of powder and salt, and inviting me to the residence of his father, some twenty leagues distant across the mountains. Accordingly, the next morning we commenced our route long before Aurora made her appearance; and even thus early, the family of my host had breakfast prepared, similar to the repast I have already described. A stranger in Circassia, who may be introduced to the ladies of his host, is expected, through coustesy, to present them with some trifling articles for their wardrobe. Aware of this custom, I pro vided myself, before leaving Trebizond, with a variety of trinkets, more showy than valuable, together with a plentiful supply of colored and white muslin shawls, pins, needles, German silver fireboxes, &c. Several of which I presented, when taking my departure, to my host and his family. I need hardly say that they were objects of universal admiration, and tended to elevate me in no slight degree in the estimation of the people. Here I also bade adieu for the present to my captain, whose friendly attention I shall ever remember, and committed myself to the care of the young prince, and his gallant troop. Departure for the residence of a Circassian chief-Romantic character of the scenery-colony of Krim-Tartars-Alpine village-abundance of game-arrival at the residence of the chief-his appearance and manners-interior of a Circassian dwelling-house-a serenade in Circassia-war-cry of the Circassians--introduction to the family of the chief-beauty of the women-their manners and costume -occupation of the Circassians. To attempt giving you a detailed description of my rout is impossible, as it lay across a country, wild as if no other foot had trodden it save that of the beasts of the forest; it was not merely up hill and down dale, but over a succession of dizzy precipices, savage glens, and frightful defiles, bared, broken, entwined, and distorted, forming altogether, a picture of Alpine scenery rarely witnessed in the most savage districts of Europe. Notwithstanding our ride was one of the most neck-breaking description, yet these daring mountaineers galloped over it with as much nonchalance, as we should through a stubble-field in England; and, however elevated, yet every spot capable of producing vegetation was covered with most splendid forest trees, and even, in some fertile patches, we found an Alpine cot, with its half-wild inhabitant tending his goats.-It was not till after ascending several thousand feet, that the peculiar character of the Caucasian mountains was developed; for however precipitous or rocky the ascent may be, each invariably terminated in a fertile plateau, even at a height of between four and five thousand feet above the level of the sea. This is, perhaps, independent of their well-known bravery and patriotism, the principal cause that every attempt to subdue these people has been hitherto found impracticable; for, when driven from the plains, they ever found a secure retreat on the mountain tops till they recruited their forces, and then descended to annihilate thelr enemies. On the summit of one of these plateaux, where we remained during the noon-day heat, I found a blooming village, surrounded with orchards and agricultural fields, all extremely fertile, and in a high state of cultivation. I soon ascertained that the inhabitants were a colony of Tartars, who, having escaped from Russian oppression at the conquest of the Crimea, had here found a secure asylum. When I told them, in their native language, that I had recently travelled through Krim-Tartary, these simple-minded people lavished upon me a thousand kind attentions; indeed we had every reason to feel grateful for their hospitality. Like the Circassians, the Tartars conceal their little dwellings behind embankments or clusters of trees; and, were it not for the numerous herds of cattle grazing in the fields, and the men and women employed at the various work of husbandry, it would be impossible for the traveller to discover that he was in the neighborhood of a human habitation. I found these Alpine cots to be of the same peculiar form as those I had before observed while wandering in the remote mountain districts of the Crimea. The roof is always flat; being strongly built, and covered with a layer of gravel, they become perfectly impenetrable to the rain. During the summer months, the Tartars are accustomed to furnish the tops of their houses with a divan and carpet, when they are used instead of the interior for taking their meals and receiving the visits of their friends; nor are they less valuable in the autumn, when they serve as a granary, on which to dry their grain and fruits. In the centre of each cot is a large chimney appropriated to the treble purpose of communicating their wishes to their neighbors, a channel for the smoke to escape, and a window to light the apartment. The vestibule in front is frequently the kitchen; the rooms for the harem being on one side, and the stables on the other. However singular these cots may appear when described, they are nevertheless exceedingly well adapted to the climate, being warm in the winter and cool in summer. During our ride, we shot several kinds of game such as wild turkeys, pheasants, hares, and deer, to which I may add jackals, wild cats, and an immense boar. And although the Circassians are unrivalled as marksmen at a stationary object, yet I was infinitely more successful when firing at a bird on the wing, or an animal at full speed: this arises from the bad custom I before alluded to, of using the javelin as a rest for the rifle. The forests appeared to abound with animals of every description. In addition to those I have mentioned, there are wolves, bears, foxes, the lynx, &c.; and, if I have been rightly informed, the inhabitants of the Caucasus are sometimes favored with a visit from the tiger. On descending the mountains, sufficient light remained for us to obtain an indistinct glance of the little congregated cottages of the highland prince to whom we were repairing; which, from the palisadoes in front, and the semicircular rivulet that formed a natural moat as it rushed past, appeared fortified. This, however, was not the case, for the numerous flocks and herds that covered the hills, told more of rural life than feudal vassalage. Several horses were standing under the verandah, ready saddled; when, on our leader firing his musket, we were presently joined by the old chief and a few of his clansmen, who welcomed me in the most friendly manner to Alleghei, (Circassia, in the language of the natives.) The appearance of the prince was tall and erect, with a beard descendend half way to his girdle. His features still handsome, but roughened by long exposure to the weather, wore a mingled expression of good nature, ferocity, and cunning, the effect of a long life of warfare and peril. Although he had attained the age of seventy, yet he managed his steed with as much ease and grace, as any one of the athletic youths that surrounded me. Indeed, he is said still to excel in horsemanship, and all the military exercises of his country; he had only returned a few days previous to my arrival, from the camp near Soudjouk-kali, where he performed prodigies of valor in defending the passes against the advance of the Russian army, and was now preparing his clansmen for a second campaign. The residence of my host was quite as primitive in its construction as that I before described, the only difference being, that there were a few more detached cottages, and two or three, by way of distinction, were plastered outside with a species of mineral clay, found in the environs, which becomes, from exposure to the weather, exceedingly firm, and has not a bad effect. As to comforts and conveniences, none were visible either in the furniture or the arrangements: the windows, open by day, were simply secured at night from the cold damp by an ill-fitting shutter; and during the severest weather, a piece of parchment is the substitute for glass. This total absence of domestic comforts was singularly contrasted with the splendid armour of the men, their gemmed weapons, noble horses, and rich housings; together with the magnificent Oriental costume of the women, who, in their dresses of gold brocade and silvered muslin, resembled so many peacocks proudly strutting about the farm-yard. Still, the traveller arriving at the house of a Circassian chief has no reason to complain. The room appropriated to strangers is always furnished with a divan, pillows, and co verlets: the cheer is by no means to be despised; and I do not think that any people ever tendered the cup of refreshment to the weary traveller with more genuine hospitality. On entering the stranger's apartment, to which the prince had the courtesy to conduct me himself, his squire, according to the general custom of this people, divested me of the whole of my weapons, and hung them up on the walls of the room with those of his master, except the poniard, which a Circassian never parts with, being considered a part of his costume. How like the warriors of ancient Greece! "And now with friendly force his hand he grasped, His coat of mail, and glittering helm unclasped, Are left, nor more the conqueror's crown will win." Having partaken of an excellent supper, attended with the same ceremony as before described, two female slaves brought in warm 3 |