road to Narva, at nine o'clock in the evening, to a very comfortable inn. Here the Russ character began to subside; most of the boors speak German. In the morning we were much gratified with contemplating a town, which the romantic heroism of Charles XII of Sweden has for ever rendered celebrated. We passed over the ground where, on the 30th of November, 1700, Charles routed one hundred thousand Muscovites with eight thousand Swedes. History says, that upon the first discharge of the enemy's shot, a ball slightly grazed the king's left shoulder; of this he at the time took no notice: soon after his horse was killed, and a second had his head carried away by a cannon-ball. As he was nimbly mounting the third, "These fellows," says he, "make me exercise." His sagacity and humanity were conspicuous in the disposal of his prisoners, who were five times his numbers: after they had laid down their arms, the king returned them their colours, and presented their officers with their swords, marched them across the river, and sent them home. I have heard of the humane policy of a British general, who finding, after a battle, that his prisoners greatly exceeded his own troops in numbers, and not possessing the local facilities that favoured the Swedish conqueror, to prevent any ill consequences from a situation so embarrassing, he made every prisoner swallow a copious quantity of jalap, and then ordered the waistband of his breeches to be cut: by this aperient and harmless policy, he placed four men under the irresistible control of one. The waterfalls are about an English mile from the town. At a distance, the trees, which hang over the valley through which the waters roll, were enveloped in mist. I should suppose these falls to be about three hundred feet wide, and their descent about seventeen. The weather at this time was delightful, resembling some of our finest days in May. In the evening we went to a play, performed by a strolling company of Germans: the hero of the piece was a young English merchant, decorated with a polar star on his left breast; and another of the dramatis persone was a drunken lady. We left Narva at seven the next morning, and entered the province of Livonia. The roads were excellent, and the country beautiful: our horses small, plump, and strong; and above we were serenaded by larks singing in a cloudless sky. Our drivers wore hats covered with oil-skin, and woollen gloves; and the German pipe began to smoke. The little Swede excited the wonder and admiration of every Livonian boor, who had never before beheld such a vehicle. In the evening things began to assume a less pleasing aspect: as we approached the lake Piepus, the roads became very sandy, and the country dreary. At the post-house at Kleinpringern, we saw the skins of several bears hanging up to dry, and conversed with a party of hunters, who were going in pursuit of that animal, with which, as well as with wolves, the woods on each side abound. Here let me recommend every traveller to take an additional number of horses to his carriage, otherwise he will experience the inconvenience which attended us before we reached Rennapungen, the next stage. To the little Swede we put two horses, to the barouche six; all lean, miserable animals, wretchedly tackled, and in this trim we started at nine o'clock in the evening, and, axletree-deep in sand, we ploughed our way, at the rate of two English miles an hour: at last our poor jaded cattle, panting and almost breathless, after several preceding pauses, made a decisive stand in the depth of a dark forest, the silence of which was only interrupted by the distant howling of bears. Our drivers, after screaming in a very shrill tone, as we were afterwards informed, to keep these animals off, dropped their heads upon the necks of their horses, and very composedly went to sleep : a comfortable situation for a set of impatient Englishmen! Finding that the horses of the little Swede began to prick their ears after three quarters of an hour's stoppage, I and my companion awoke our postilion, and ordered him to proceed, that we might send fresh horses for the other carriage. To our surprise we jogged on tolerably well, reached Rennapungen in about four hours, and dispatched fresh horses for our friends, who rejoined us at five o'clock in the morning. When I entered the inn at this place, two Russian counts, and their suite, occupied all the beds; so I mounted an old spinnet, and with a portmanteau for a pillow, and fatigue for opiate, went to sleep, until the travellers, who started very early, were gone, when I got into a bed, which the body of a count of the empire had just warmed. This circumstance reminded me of the answer of a chamber-maid, at an inn at Exeter, who, upon my requesting to have a comfortable bed, observed, "Indeed, Sir, you cannot have a better one than the one "I have secured for you ;" and, by way of recommendation, added, "Lord B- who arrived from Lisbon about ten days since, died " in it two nights ago." The following day we passed through a country which, no doubt, was a perfect Paradise in the estimation of the race of Bruins; to whom I left its unenvied enjoyment, to sit down to a comfortable dinner at Nonal, the next stage, having abundantly replenished our stock of provisions at Narva. After skirting a small portion of the Piepus lake, a vast space of water, eighty versts broad, and one hundred and sixty long, we arrived at Dorpt, which stands upon a small river that communicates with the lake. The town is extensive, has several good streets and handsome houses, and is celebrated for its university, in which there are twenty-four professors, and one hundred and forty students, one-third of whom are noble. Upon the summit of a hill that commands the town are the remains of a vast and ancient abbey, which was founded by the knights of the Teutonic order, new preparing for the reception of the university library: the palace of the grand master occupied the spot where the fortifications are building. The Teutonic order was established in the twelfth century, and declined in the fifteenth. In a crusade against Saladin, for the recovery of the Holy Land, a great number of German volunteers accompanied the emperor Barbarossa; upon whose death his followers, who had distinguished themselves on that spot where, several centuries afterwards, it was destined that Sir Sidney Smith, with unexampled heroism, should plant the British standard before Acre, elected fresh leaders, under whom they performed such feats of valour, that Henry, king of Jerusalem, the Patriarch, and other princes, instituted an order of knighthood in their favour, and were ultimately placed under the protection of the virgin Mary in honour of whom they raised several magnificent structures at Marienborg, or the city of the Virgin Mary, near Dantzig. Afterwards growing rich, they elected a grand master, who was invested with sovereign prerogatives: by the bulls that were granted in their favour, they were represented as professing temperance and continence; virtues which, no doubt, were religiously observed by soldiers, and travelled men of gallantry. The prison of Dorpt, in which a number of unfortunate creatures are immured, is a subterranean vault, damp, dark, narrow, and pregnant with disease and misery. To be confined in it is, in general, something worse than being sent to the scaffold; for a lingering death is the usual fate of the wretch upon whom its gates are closed. Hanway, in the name of justice and humanity, denounced this dungeon: to the present emperor some recent representations have been made upon the subject; they will not be made in vain to one who, gloriously reversing the ordinary habits of beneficence, listens with more fixed attention to the sounds of misery, in proportion as they are distant and feeble. If a pebble be thrown into a standing pool, it will disturb its even surface from the centre to the extremities; but if a stone be cast into the ocean, it creates but a momentary interruption, unfelt by the succeeding wave: thus will a petty occurrence agitate the tranquillity of a small community, which would produce no sensation upon expanded and active society. A trifle, not quite as light as air, a few days before our arrival, had rudely and unexpectedly shattered-the peace and harmony which once reigned in the academic bowers of Dorpt. Professors were drawn out in battle array, and vengeance assumed the mask of learning. Two professors' ladies had had a violent dispute at cards, and unfortunately they lived opposite to each other: one of them, upon a sunny day, when all things look clear and bright, ordered her maid, a plump, brawny, Livonian girl, whilst her opponent's husband, a grave and reverend gentleman, was looking out of his window, as a mark of scorn and contempt, to turn her back towards him in her chamber, and exhibit le derrière de sa personne, sans voile. It was a Livonian thought: the social condition of the country, the rash infirmity of human nature, the summary projects of pique, all plead for the urbanity of the lady, who only in this solitary instance forgot the dignity of her situation. All Dorpt was at first convulsed with laughter, save the parties concerned, and their immediate friends. The most erudite civilians were sent for; and after long and sagacious consultations, a bill was filed against the mistress and her maid, to which regular answers were put in, most ably drawn up. Nothing short of penance and excommunication were expected. No doubt, this most important suit has been long since determined; and much do I regret, that ignorance of the decree prevents me from finishing the fragment of this curious event. Upon turning the corner of a street, we beheld a sight at once shocking and humiliating to the pride of man; a vast pile of skulls and bones of the terrific and ambitious knights of the Teutonic order. In breaking up some cemeteries, for erecting the foundation of a new university, these wretched remains were removed, that once formed the plumed and glittering warrior, who, N N -with his beaver on, His cuishes on his thighs, gallantly arm'd, And vaulted with such ease into his seat, As if an angel dropt down from the clouds." The students at the university seem desirous of retaining in their dress some traces of the martial founders of the town, by wearing great military boots and spurs, a common coat, and a leather helmet with an iron crest: a costume less appropriate could not easily have been imagined. The peasant women of this province are very ordinary, and wear huge pewter breast-buckles upon their neck handkerchiefs. At Uttern, the first stage, we found the governor of the province had ordered all the post-horses for himself and suite, and was expected every hour to return from a singular species of service. It appeared that an ukase had been passed considerably ameliorating the condition of the Livonian peasants, but the nature of it having been mistaken by three or four villages in the neighbourhood of the posthouse, they revolted. Two companies of infantry were marched against them, and after flogging half a dozen of the principal farmers, tranquillity was restored, and we met the soldiers returning. This spirit of disaffection detained us at this post-house all night, for want of horses. At night a Russian, apparently of rank, of a powerful and majestic figure, and elegant manners, arrived: after a very agreeable conversation at breakfast, he departed early in the morning for Moscow, to which city he gave us a cordial invitation: the stranger proved to be count P- -Z, who took the lead in the gloomy catastrophe which occurred in the palace of Saint Michael. In all the post-houses is a tablet, framed and glazed, called the taxe, on which is printed the settled price of provisions, horses, and carriages. Travelling still continued cheap, at the rate of ten-pence English for eight horses for an English mile; but it was painful to see the emaciated state of these poor animals. The roads still continued dreadfully sandy; we were seldom able to go above three verts an hour. The little Swede, who overturned us very harmlessly in the sand, a little before we reached Wollemar, where we dined, still preserved her popularity; and, as modest simplicity frequently triumphs over presuming splendour, she diverted all the attention of |