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But all turn with interest to old Fort Marion, which King Ferdinand supposed, from its cost, must have been built of doubloons, and could never decay! Alas! the moat is dry; the draw-bridge supplied by a plank; the watch-towers battered and broken; and the ramparts, at this time, ornamented with pine cabins, and used as government stables. Indeed, there are few purposes to which it has not been put, save that for which it was erected. Its last ostensible use is that of a state-prison. The old convent of St. Francis has been purchased and converted into barracks.

But to none of these beacons of time did Merton turn with more earnest inquiry than to that ruined gateway. There have those pillars stood, from the day when first the pride of Spain's chivalry graced the portal; when all the city was paved as a court, no carriage being allowed to pass within, lest it should mar its beauty; when its houses were the dwellings of knights and courtiers; when orange-groves, in fullest foliage throughout the year, afforded a perfect shade through every street, and likened the city to a garden; when wealth, and mirth, and song, and wine were for the lordly few, and a watchman stood within that gate, and bowed as these passed by. Yet was it not as the sepulchre of the Pharisees? Above, all was bright and fair to lock upon; but beneath were dark, damp, lonely cells, ready to immure the unsuspecting, and stifle the cries of many a victim of despotism and cruel suspicion. And who shall say how many the Inquisitorial Court sent through that gateway, never to return? All these the watchman saw, and witnessed the retribution, when Spain's proud banner yielded to Britain's flag. And again the troops of England passed that way, and the stars and stripes of Liberty were hoisted to the breeze! Well might the watchman then retire, and the ancient wall be removed; no longer needed to aid the tyrant's power, or shield the iniquities of the Inquisition.

The principal street rans from this old gate, directly through the city, to the flats upon the sea-shore. There are three running parallel to the bay, Water-street being protected from overflow by a beautiful wall recently re-built, and affording a pleasant and fashionable promenade. Short alleys intersect these. In the centre of the town is a very pretty little plaza, ornamented with trees, and a small monument. On one side of this is the market, fronting to the water; opposite, a large, square building, with wings and piazzas, once the governor's palace, but altered to a court-house. On the corresponding sides are the old cathedral, probably the oldest in the Union, and an Episcopal church of recent date. Most of the buildings are of tabby, a kind of stone formed of the concretion of shells, of which there is a quarry on the island of Anastasia, opposite the town. The old Spanish houses were all built of this, and in peculiar style, each having a court, surrounded by a high wall, topped with oyster-shells, at the gate of which visitors were expected to knock. Indeed, there is nothing more picturesque than these old dwellings. As you approach, no pleasing exterior presents, but a gloomy, moss-grown wall; and heavy doors and shutters, clasped with iron bars, rather forbid intrusion. A stranger might hesitate to lift the knocker. When the ready porter throws open the ponderous gate, the bright sun shining through the neatly-tiled walk, the pretty garden with its flowers and fruits,

all smile a welcome. But these scenes are passing away; emigrants from other lands, with their Americanisms and modern improvements, are building their stiff and stately edifices and ultra additions; looking as out of place as a dandy of to-day among the veterans of 'seventy-six.'

Neither was the antiquity of the cathedral-that lonely sentinel of other days, and pointing as it emphatically did to the period of the city's birth-at all respected. It is wonderful with what seeming eagerness men will set to work to obliterate the symbols of time. Even this old church, which had stood for centuries unaltered, and which was an object of intense interest to every stranger, and should have been one of pride to every denizen, could not remain unscathed. Its very age should have spared it from improvement, and hallowed, as it gave it beauty. But no; terrace must yield to puncheon-flooring, and oak benches to pine pens. This is a superficial age, and here, as elsewhere, the substantial must give place to the flimsy!

Merton had followed the main street through the city, passed the plaza and all the most important buildings, nor drew his rein until he halted in front of old St. Francis barracks, whither he had first proceeded in order to make his report in person.

The old convent of St. Francis, now the United States' barracks, was a large old building of tabby, with moss-grown walls aud gloomy aspect. It was originally square, with the exception of two projecting wings in front, and the never-failing balconies and piazzas; but it has since been mutilated, like all the rest, to suit ita new purpose, and numerous and various are the additions and improvements which have been added thereto. It fronts the water, and all the officers' quarters, being on the second story, are exceedingly cheerful and attractive. The parade-ground, however, was now in the rear, and very limited, being only the interior court formed by the three sides of the building. But since the war, the lamented Worth has induced Government to purchase a large lot in front, between it and the water. This has been filled up and turfed; and here the proud banner of the Stars and Stripes floats or the breeze from a noble flag-staff, and forms an attractive feature to any who approach the harbor. Indeed, this is the finest view to be had of St. Augustine. As seen from the bay, the little city stretches along to quite a respectable size, while the peculiar structure of the buildings renders it picturesque and interesting.

Merton gazed for a moment upon the swampy ground or flats alluded to, little thinking that here his comrades were to be drilled and tutored for those deeds of matchless valor they have since accomplished in other lands, and in a warfare where military skill could prove its Worth. But every thing looked cold and cheerless in the dawning day; and he threw his reins to a soldier who came forth from the basement, jumped from his horse, and ascended the broad flight of steps leading to the gallery, where paced an orderly in front of the commanding officer's quarters. The reveillé having sounded, he was soon admitted, and his report made. The precision and promptness with which all such matters are attended to is not only proverbial, but the beauty of true military life. Suffice it to say, here was no loitering, no demurring of lazy or indifferent dispositions; but as soon as the facts of the recent attack of Indians were made

known, a detachment was ordered out; and ere the sleeping denizens were aroused to a sense of the danger near, a company of dragoons were en route to their assistance.

Having relieved himself of this duty by its speedy fulfilment, Merton turned back to seek some lodgings where he could find repose; for, although every inch a soldier, his limbs were now weary, and his spirits flagged. As he knew nothing of the topography of the city, he left the guidance entirely to the animal he rode. The old fellow pricked up his ears, and with a fast trot soon halted in front of the hotel where his former owner was wont to stop, and which, but for the brute's instinct, he might have been long in seeking. Certainly he would not have inquired here, appearances being any thing but inviting. The street was hardly wider than an ordinary alley, and blocked up by drivers and drays, darkeys and customers who thronged the door-ways of the bars, and petty groceries on either side. This hotel was one of the original Spanish houses, and built of stone, but had been added to with bricks, logs or planks, as the taste or means of the proprietors suggested. It was commodious, however, and sported a cupola which commanded a fine view of the city and bay. But better than all, cocks crowed and gobblers strutted a welcome. The gouty landlord advanced to meet him, and idle waiters grinned at the prospect of bits' to come. Even 'Boots' looked pleased in his psuedo capacity of hostler; and with the sign of his calling upon his osnaburg tire, cheerfully led Dick to the stable, while his master followed the boss.

We beg leave to state that we speak of the past. This smiling landlord has made his last reckoning; and in place of his broad pumpkin-like visage, we meet the man of metal, with a dollar in each eye! In answer to your inquiry for a room and the comforts thereof, (no matter for your woe-begone appearance; here, as elsewhere, the worse you look the worse you fare!) he replies: 'A room! how long is your purse?' Then comes a scrutiny of the baggage. 'Pete, will the trunks pay?' We laugh at the old governor of Siam, who refused admittance to our chargé d'affaires until he proved that he had a tail, by appending a long string of meaningless words to his signature; but show me the landlord who uses not the same policy. The longer tail, the more courtesy. The bigger title, the better pay. Merton was shown to the public drawing-room, but scarcely felt in trim to enter. There were several ladies, however, in travelling dresses, here awaiting the tedious preparation of their rooms, and he concluded to take his chance among them. By the fire, in a large fauteuil, sat a fat old lady, with a quizzing-glass, sans ceremonie surveying the company. Suddenly her eye fell on Merton, who had taken a seat on a lounge opposite.

'I perceive you are a stranger, like ourselves, Sir,' she observed. 'Pray, is this your first visit to this ancient city? Won't you sit by the fire? It is not cold, but a fire looks so home-like. I sit here sometimes until I'm almost roasted!'

He smiled, as he recognized his old compagnonne de voyage, and immediately took a seat beside her, replying: 'A fire looks very cheerful to me, Madam, I assure you, after riding through the woods all night.'

'Indeed! We only arrived yesterday. But what state are you from?

I would know you for a Yankee in Lapland! Why, if it ain't you, Mr. what's-your-name? Clary, do come here. This is the gentleman who was so perlite to us at the Bluff. 'Tis so delightful to meet old friends!'

Merton acknowledged the sentiment by a bow, although he scarcely felt entitled to the compliment. Miss Clara, however, who was standing at the window, turned, and cordially greeted him; while Mrs. Scriggins continued to rattle on from one subject to another, with her wonted volubility.

'Did you come across the country from Jacksonville, or up the St. John's to Picolata? I shall be about as wise when you've told me. But, for my part, I was so disappointed! I thought to be in Paradise when I reached Florida; and as to a pine barren, I expected such sights! birds of gayest plumage among the trees, and flocks of deer bounding beneath. But it was lonely as the grave; all the sound we heard was the chattering of the crows; and all we saw was a flock of wolves quarrelling over an old dead cow.'

'You chose an unfortunate route, Madam,' replied Merton. I came across the country from Jacksonville, and I assure you, I did see sights.' But Mrs. Seriggins preferred talking to listening, and continued: 'We did, indeed; but it was not our fault, but our misfortune, as the horse-jockey said when he sold a toothless horse! You saw the old fellow in a cap and surtout - I mean the gentleman who came for us in the boat, at the Bluff? Well, that was the rich Squire Roughenough, to whom my daughter and I were consigned. Of course, we left every thing to him. What a pity titles are not more general! I don't know your name, but I have no trouble in speaking of or to you; the Lieutenant is such a handle. Mr. sounds so or'nary.'

'My name is Merton, Madam.

'That's a very pretty name. Scriggins is not very beautiful, but it's very uncommon. What was I telling you? Oh! I recollect; about our journey. Roughenough had ordered the carriage that day; but these darkeys are so stupid, just like the Irish! Dick didn't arrive until late at night; and then some of the tacklin' needed repair; and then he had a long story to tell about a dreadful murder, and how he had been expecting an Indian to jump from behind every tree, until our hair all stood on end. His stories, together with the pen where we had to lodge, made it rather exciting. Clary thought it very romantic. But old ladies are not apt to look on things in that light. Bless you! the sand-flies and mosquitoes were so thick, I thought it rained; and they bite at both ends! As to the house, it was built of logs, and not bigger than a chicken-coop; only here and there was a clap-board, so that you could see the sky above, and the trees around you; and if you dropped any thing, the pigs and chickens stood ready to drag it off, through the cracks of the floor. Then there was but one room and one bedstead for eight or ten people! They told us they intended enlarging the premises; but if they don't improve them, so far as I can see, it will only be an increase of difficulties! Clary and I were the only ladies, and we were honored with the old pine bunk, around which they agreed to hang blankets to screen us; but just as I was crawling upon the crazy old 'stead, in only my night rig, down it went; the string

of the screen snapped, and there we were, all in dishabille before the company! and, you know, thick frills and no curls is so unbecoming! There was a large fire blazing in the stick-and-clay chimney; and in front, luckily with their backs to us, sat half-a-dozen fishermen, in red flannel or check shirts, smoking and chewing, and telling stories of their hairbreadth escapes, and wonderful feats with wild-cats, wolves, and alligators. Our catastrophe, however, interrupted the history of the varmints, as they term all wild animals; and after re-settling our affairs, they gradually ceased talking, and one after another fell asleep, alternately nodding in their chairs, or taking their turn upon the pallets spread on the floor. It was about midnight that I began to feel the influence of Orpheus, despite the stings of sand-flies, or thrusts of gallinippers' fangs, with their everthreatening buzz still ringing in my ears, when I thought of poor Roughenough, and peeped out to see where they had stowed him. The fire had burned down to coals, save an occasional blaze flashing from the back log. In this uncertain light, it was some minutes before I could distinguish one ugly moss-like chin from another, as they lay stretched upon their rude pallets, in all the restlessness of slumber; all stamping and kicking as they got an extra thrust from the thickly-swarming mosquitoes. At our feet, inside the curtain, snored the landlord and his spouse; and on either side the fire-place was crouched an old salt, with his tarpaulin drawn down over his eye-brows, and a colored cotton kerchief spread over his face. I could n't make out their broadcloth, but I knew neither was Roughenough, from their shoes. However, I was not kept long in suspense. Down from the attic, a hole in the wall, came a bed and bedclothes, and very soon I saw the object of my search descending the ladder, with a pillow-case over his head, and his coat over his arm; otherwise he was dressed.

"Mrs. Scriggins, are you awake? you can't possibly be asleep!' said he. I had withdrawn my denuded head, and he continued: Had we not better make a start? 'Tis nearly day-dawn, and not very cold. What says Clara? Where is she?'

"Here am I, barely alive. By all means, let us depart. I have not winked, and the night seems interminable.'

'I felt rather skittish about travelling, but equally so as to remaining. Our chat aroused the old man and his wife, who regretted we had not been better accommodated; adding, that when the war was over they intended to build a new house. In vain we told them we knew it was not their fault that we had not rested; the old woman did not at all like what we said, and we felt that the sooner we got out of her quarters the better.'

You were very unlucky,' replied Merton, who was greatly amused at the old lady's recital of scenes; which, however, lost their zest, when afterward he was called to participate in them. In visiting a new or sparsely settled country, we must take things as we find them. It is not only useless but unwise to grumble. Inhospitality is not often a fault with the settlers. They will grant you all the accommodation in their power; but you must be satisfied, and make no invidious remarks, or they will be likely to teach you that a Cracker' is not to be insulted with impunity.

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