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and tower into the sky, cast a pleasing gloom upon the whole lande scape. The more diftant mountains of the vale embosoming the moss-grown village, with the meadowy flac around it, are seen retiring in lines crosúng each other behind in the most picturesque manner possible, whilst the intermediate space, betwixt the village and the observer, is filled up with a small lake, whose waters reflect. ing the mountains which bound it, contract their fombre hue, and render the scene still more interesting. I could almost have fancied that naure untamed bore here an uninterrupted fway amidst the gloom and grandeur of these dreary rocks, had not the filence been, at intervals, interrupted by the loud blasts from the neighbouring copper mine, which rolled like distant thunder along the atmosphere.' Vol.i. Þ. 182.
· The village of Llanberis is romantic in the extreme; it is fo. tuated in a narrow graffy dell, surrounded by immense rocks, whose fummits, cloud-capped, are but seldom visible to the inhabitants from below. Except two tolerable houses in the vale, one belonging to Mr. Jones, the agent to the copper mine, and the other, which is on the fide of the lake, opposite to Dolbadarn castle, be. longing to the agent of the Rate quarries; the whole village consists but of two cottages, apparently the most miserable. They are in general constructed of a Maly kind of stone, with which the country abounds, and with but just so much lime as to keep out the keenet of the mountain blasts. The windows are all very small, and in addition to this, by far the greater part of them, with having been formerly broken, are blocked up with boards, leaving only three or four panes of glass, and affording scarcely sufficient light within to render even “ darkness visible." Here I might have expected to find a race of men, who, subject to the inconveniences, withont participating in the benefits of civil society, were in a state litile tort of misery. These men, it might again be fuppofed, in this secluded place, with difficulty contriving to keep up an existence, would be cheerless as their own mountains, throwded in snow and clouds; but I found them not so, they were happier in their mossgrown coverings, than millions in more exalted ftations of life; here I truly found that
· Tho'poor the peasant's hut, his feasts tho' small,
. At night, returning, every labour fjed,
He fits him down the monarch of a med.
There are two houses in this village,' at which the wearied traveller may take such poor refreshments as the place affords. One, of these belongs to John Close, a grey-headed old man, who, though born and brought up in the north of Yorkshire, having oc
cafion to come into Wales when he was quite a youth, preferred , this to his Yorkshire home, and has resided here ever fince. The
other house is kept by the parith clerk, who may be employed as a guide over any part of the adjacent country. I found him well acquainted with the mountains, and a much more intelligent man than guides in general are. He does not spe:k English well, but bis civility and attention were a sufficient compensation for that defect. Neither of these places afford [affords] a bed, nor any thing better than bread, butter, and cheese, and, perhaps, eggs and bacon.,
• As I was one day fitting to my rustic fare, in the former of. these houses, I could not help remarking the oddness of the group, all at the famie time, and in the same room, enjoying their diferent repafis. At one table was seated the fanvily of the house, confifte ing of the host, his wife, and their fon and daughter, eating their bread and inilk, the common-food of the labouring people here; a large overgrow old sow making a noite, neither very low nor very musical, whilft he was devouring her dinner from a pail placed for her by the daughter, was in one corner, and I was eatiog my bread and butter, with an appetite fteeled against diceties by the keenness of the mountain air, at a table covered with a dirty napkin, in the other corner. This scene, however, induced me ever afterwards, in my excursions to this place, to bring with me refrelhments from Caernarvon, and enjoy my dinner in quiet in the open air. But excepting in this fingle instance, I did not find the house worse than I had any reason to expect in such a place as this. The accom. modations in the clerk's house are poor, but the inhabitants seemed very clean and decent people.
i The church of Llanberis, which is dedicated to St. Peris, a cardinal, miffioned from Rome as a legate to this isand, who is said to have settled and died at this place, is, without exception, the most ill-looking place of worship I ever beheld. The first time I visited the village, I abfolutely mistook it for an ancient cottage, for even. the bell turret was so overgrown with ivy as to bear as niuch the ap. pearance of a weather.beaten chimney as any thing else, and the long grass in the church-yard completely hid the few pave stones therein from the view.' 'I thought it indeed a cottage larger than the rest, and it was sometiine before I could reconcile to myfelf that it was a church. Here is yet to be seen the well of the saint, inclosed within a square wall, but I met with no sybil, who, as Mr. Pennant relates, could divine my fortune by the appearance or non-appearance of a little fiih which lurks in fome of its holes. . ,
• The curate I saw, and was introduced to; le resides in a meanlooking cottage not far diftant, which seemed to consist of but few other rooms than a kitchen and bed room, the latter of which served also for his study. When I first saw him he was employed in reading in an old volume of sernions. His dress was somewhat Gingi lar; he had on a blue coat, which had long been worn threadbare, a pair of anrique corderoy breeches, and a black waistcoat, and round his head he wore a blue handkerchief. His library might have been the same that Hurdis has described in ihe Village Curate.
Yon half-a-dozen thelves support, vast weight,
And character. From the exterior of the cottage, it seemed but the habitation of misery, but the smiles of the good man were such as would render even misery itself cheerful. His falary is about forty pounds, on which, with his little farm, he contrives to support himself, his wife, and a horse, and with this nender pittance he appeared perfectly contented and comfortable. His wife was not at home, but, from a wheel which I observed in the kitchen, I conjectured that her time was employed in spinning wool. The account I had from some of the parishioners of his character was, that he was a man respected and beloved by all, and that his chief attention was occupied in doing such good as his circumstances would afford to his fellow creatures.
• I venerate the man whose heart is warm,
Whore actions say that they respect themselves. · The vale of Llanberis was formerly almost covered with wood, but of this, there is at present but little left, except a few faplings from the old roots, which only serve to remind us of the greater tvant of the rest. Within the memory of persons now living, there were great woods of oak in different places about these mountains. Leland, who wrote in the reign of Henry VIII. says, “ The best wood of Cairnarvonshire is by Glinne Kledder (Glyn Llwydaw), and by Glin Lhughy (Glyn Llygwy), and by Capel Kiryk (Capel Curig), and at Llapperis.” In the time of Howel Dha, Howel the Good, who was made prince of Wales in the year 940, the whole country must have been nearly covered with wood, for it is ordered in the Wellh laws, founded by him, that “ whoever cleared away timber from any land without the consent of the owner, he should, for five years, have a right to the land so cleared ; and after that time it fhould return again to the owner." These mountains also for. merly abounded in deer, which even continued in great quantities till much later than the reign of Henry VIII. but after the use of fire arms became general, they were foon all destroyed.' ; Vol. i. P. 190.
The island of Anglesea, the Mona of the ancient Romans, would of course attract the attention of our traveller, and he presents us with a description of this famous residence of the druids. In this description the rich copper mine of Parry's mount forms a distinguished feature. Returning from Anglesea, Mr. Bingley again fixed his residence at Caernarvon; and after various rambles into different parts of the adjacent country, he, for the last time, visited Snowdon. Of this visit he gives the following account.
"As I had, upon coming into Wales, made a determination to ascend Snowdon by all the tracks that are usually pointed out to travellers, I, for the last time, undertook the task, along with a party of four others, from Beddgelert, William Lloyd, the village school. master, (his scholars being always, during the suinmer time, en. gaged in rostic employments) performing the office of guide.
The distance from Beddgelert to the summit being reckoned not less than fix miles, and a lady being one of the party, it was thought best for her to ride as far as the could without danger, and for the rest to walk. In this manner therefore we set out, beginning our mountain journey by turning to the right from the Caernarvon road, at the distance of about two miles and a half from the village. We left the horse at a cottage about half way up, from whence taking a bottle of milk to mix with some rum we had brought with us, we continued our route over a series of pointed and craggy rocks. Stopping at different times to rest, we enjoyed, to the utnoft, the prospects that by degrees were opening around us. Caernarvon and the Isle of Anglesea, aided by the brightness of the morning, were seen to great advantage; and Llyn Cwellyn below us, shaded by the vaft Mynydd Mawr, with Caftell Cidwm at its foot, appeared extremely beautiful. In ascending, the mountains, which from below appeared of an immense height, began now to feem beneath us; the lakes and vallies" became more exposed, and the linle rills and mountain streams by degrees became all viâble to us, like silver lines intersecting the hollows around. , ! We now approacbed a molt treinendous ridge, over which we bad to país, called Claudd Coch, or the red ridge. This narrow pass, not more zhan ten or twelve feet across, and two or thrçe hundred yards in length, was so steep, that the eye reached on each fide down the whole extent of the mountain. And I am firmly persuaded that, in some parts of it, if a person held a large stone in cach hand, and let them both fall at once, each would roll above a quarter of a mile, and thus, when they stopped, be more than half a mile afunder. The lady who was with us, to my great surprise, passed this horrid ridge without the smallest signs of fear or trepidation.
• There is no danger whatever in crossing Clawdd Coch in the day time, but I must confess, that though I am one of the last to be alarmed by passing among precipices, I should, by no means, like to venture, as many do who have never seen it, along this track in the night. If the moon fhone very bright I should not, to be sure, mind it much, but a cloud coming suddenly over might even then render it dangerous. . There have been several instances of persons who having passed over it in the night, were so terrified at feeing it the next morning, that they have not dared to return the same way, but have gone a very circuitous round by Bettws. I was informed that one gentleman had been so much alarmed, that he crawled over it back again upon his hands and knees.
• In the hollow on the left, are four small pools, called Llyn Coch, the red pool; Llyn y Nadroedd, the adder's pool; Llyn Gwâs, the blue pool; and Llyn Ffynnon y Gwas, the servant's pool
Soon after we had passed Clawdd Coch, we became immersed in light clouds, till we arrived at the summit, when a single gleam of fun bine, which lasted but for a moment, presented us with the majestic scenery on the west of us. It, however, only served to tantalise us, for a smart gust of wind obscured us again in clouds. We now Iheltered ourselves from the cold under some of the proje&ting rocks near the top; and ate our dinners, watching with anxiety the dark Thades in the clouds, in hopes that a separation might take place, and we be once more delighted with a sight of the grand objects around us. We did not watch in vain, for the clouds by degrees cleared away, and left us at full liberty to admire the numerous beauties in this 'vast expansive scene. The steep rock of Clogwyn y Garnedd, whose dreadful precipices are, some of them, above two hundred yards in perpendicular height, and the whole rock a series of precipices, was an object which first struck my companions with terror, and one of them burst out in exclamation,
- How fearful · And dizzy 'tis to cart one's eyes fo low!
- The crows and choughs that wing the midway air, .; Shew scarce la gross as beetles.. .
• We now stood on a point which commanded the whole dome of the sky. The prospects below, each of which we had before confidered separately as a great scene, were now only miniature