top o bottom, but, most mercifully, the hull had received no injury. This event spread consternation among the sailors, and with dejected countenances, they scarcely dared to raise their heads, while they looked on me as the servant of Shangte, and as one who enjoyed his protection. From this time they ased to ridicule me, and on the other hand treated me with great respect.-The elements seeme, at this time, to have conspired against us; winds and tide were contrary, and our progress was scarcely perceptible.

In the neighborhood of Shanso is Kanchow, one of the principal ports of Shantung. The trading vessels anchor near the shore, and their supercargoes go to the town by a small river. There is here a market for Indian and European merchandise, almost all kinds of which bear a tolerable price. The duties are quite low, and the mandarins have very little control over the trade. It may be stated that in general, the Shantung people are far more honest than the inhabitants of the southern provinces, though the latter treat them with disrespect, as being greatly their inferiors.

On the 8th of September, we passed Tingching, a fortress situated near the shore, on the frontiers of Chihle and Shantung provinces; it seemed to be a pretty large place, surrounded by a high wall. We saw some excellent plantations in its vicinity, and the country, generally, presented a very lively aspect, with many verdant scenes, which the wearied eye seeks for in vain, on the naked rocks of Shantung.

On the 9th, we were in great danger. Soon after we had anchored near mouth of the Pei ho (or Pih ho, the White river), a gale suddenly arose, and raged for about six hours. Several junks, which had left the harbor of Le-to with us were wrecked; but a merciful God preserved our vessel. As the wind blew from the north, the agreeable

temperature of the air was soon changed to a piercing cold. Though we were full 30 miles distant from the shore, the water was so much blown back by the force of the wind, that a man could easily wade over the sand bar; and our sailors went out in different directions to catch crabs, which were very numerous. But in a few days afterwards, a favorable south wind blew, when the water increas ed and rose to the point from which it had fallen. In a little time large numbers of boats were seen coming from the mouth of the river, to offer assistance in towing the junk in from the sea.

We had approached a considerable distance towards the shore before we saw the land, it being almost on a level with the sea. The first objects which we could discern were two small forts; these are situated near the mouth of the river, and within the last few years have been considerably repaired. The natives, who came on board, were rather rude in manners, and poorly clothed. Scarcely had we anchored, when some opium dealers from Teëntsin came alongside; they stated, that in consequence of the heir of the crown having died by opium smoking, very severe edicts had been published against the use of the drug, and that because the difficulty of trading in the article at the city was so great, they had come out to purchase such quantities of it as might be for sale on board our junk.

The entrance of the Pei ho presents nothing but scenes of wretchedness; and the whole adjacent country seemed to be as dreary as a desert. While the southern winds blow, the coast is often overflowed to a considerable extent; and the country more inland affords very little to attract attention, being diversified only by stacks of salt, and by numerous tumuli which mark the abodes of the dead. The forts are nearly square, and are surrounded by single walls; they evince very little advance in the art of fortification. The people told me, that when

the vessels of the last English embassy were anchored off the Pei ho, a detachment of soldiers-infantry and cavalry-was sent hither to ward off any attack that might be made. The impression made on the minds of the people by the appearance of those ships is still very perceptible. I frequently heard unrestrained remarks concerning barbarian fierceness and thirst after conquest, mixed with eulogiums on the equitable government of the English at Singapore. The people wondered how a few barbarians, without the transforming influence of the celestial empire, could arrive at a state of civilization, very little inferior to that of 'the Middle Kingdom.' They rejoiced that the water at the bar of the Pei ho was too shallow to afford a passage for men-of-war (which, however, is not the case; when the south wind prevails, there is water enough for ships of the largest class); and, that its course was too rapid to allow the English vessels to ascend the river. While these things were mentioned with exultation, it was remarked by one who was present, that the barbarians had fire-ships,' which could proceed up the river without the aid of trackers; this remark greatly astonished them, and excited their fears; which, however, were quieted, when I assured them, that those barbarians, as they called them, though valiant, would never make an attack unless provoked, and that if the celestial empire never provoked them, there would not be the least cause to fear.

Though our visitors here were numerous, they cared very little about me, and treated me in the same manner as they did the other passengers. Most of the in

habitants, who reside near the shore, are poor fishermen; their food consists, almost exclusively of Barbadoes millet, boiled like rice, and mixed with water in various proportions, according to the circumstances of the individuals;-if they are rich, the quantity of water is small, if poor, as is usually the case, the quantity is large. They eat with astonishing rapidity, cramming their mouths full of millet and salt

vegetables, if they are fortunate enough to obtain any of the latter. Most of the inhabitants live in this way; and only a few persons who are wealthy, and the settlers from Keängnan, Fuhkeën, and Canton provinces enjoy the luxury of rice. In a district so sterile as this, the poor inhabitants labor hard and to little purpose, trying to obtain from the productions of the soil the means of subsistence.

The village of Takoo, near which we anchored, is a fair specimen of the architecture along the banks of the Pei ho,-and it is only on the banks of the river, throughout these dreary regions, that the people fix their dwellings. The houses are generally low and square, with high walls towards the streets; they are well adapted to keep out the piercing cold of winter, but are constructed with little regard to convenience. The houses of all the inhabitants, however rich, are built of mud, excepting only those of the officers, which are of brick. The hovels of the poor have but one room, which is, at the same time, their dormitory, kitchen, and parlor. In these mean abodes, which, to keep them warm, are stopped up at all points, the people pass the dreary days of winter; and often with no other prospect than that of starving. Their chief enjoyment is the pipe. Rich individuals, to relieve the pressing wants of the populace, sometimes give them small quantities of warm millet; and the emperor, to protect them against the inclemency of the season, compassionately bestows on them a few jackets. I had much conversation with these people, who seemed to be rude but hardy, poor but cheerful, and lively but quarrelsome. The number of these wretched beings is very great, and many, it is said perish annually by the cold of winter. On account of this overflowing population, wages are low, and provisions dear; most of the articles for domestic consumption are brought from other districts and provinces; hence

many of the necessaries of life-even such as fuel, are sold at an enormous price. It is happy for this barren region, that it is situated in the vicinity of the capital; and that large quantities of silver-the chief article of exportation-are constantly flowing thither from the other parts of the empire.

Some mandarins from Takoo came on board our junk; their rank and the extent of their authority were announced to us by a herald who preceded them. They came to give us permission to proceed up the river; this permission, however, had to be bought by presents, and more than half a day was occupied in making the bargain.

Before we left this place, I gave a public dinner to all on board, both passengers and sailors. This induced one of their company to intimate to me, that in order to conciliate the favor of Matsoo po, some offerings should be made to her. I replied, "Never, since I came on board, have I seen her even taste of the offerings made to her; it is strange, that she should be so in want, as to need any offerings from me."-" But," answered the man, "the sailors will take care that nothing of what she refuses is lost."-"It is better," said I, "to give directly to the sailors, whatever is intended for them; and let Matsoo po, if she be really a goddess, feed on ambrosia, and not upon the base spirits and food which you usually place before her; if she has any being, let her provide for herself; if she is merely an image, better throw her idol with its satellites into the sea, than have them here to incumber the junk."-"These are barbarian notions," rejoined my antagonist, "which are so deeply rooted in your fierce breast, as to lead you to trample on the laws of the celestial empire."-"Barbarian reasoning is conclusive reasoning," I again replied; "if you are afraid to throw the idol into the waves, I will do it, and abide the consequences. You have heard the truth, that there is only one