LETTER THE FIFTEENTH. Letter from the Archbishop - Visit to the "Encarnacion Reception Description - The Novices Convent-supper · Picturesque scene Sonata on the Organ - Attempt at robbery - Alarms of the household-Visit to San Agustin Anonymous letter - The Virgin de los Remedios-Visit to the Chapel-The Padre The Image - Anecdote of the large pearl-A mine. 24th. THE Archbishop has not only granted me permission to visit the convents, but permits me to take two ladies along with me, of which I have been informed by the Minister, Señor Co, in a very amiable note, just received, enclosing one from Señor Posada, which I translate for your edification. To His Excellency, Señor Don J. de D. C- -0. MY DEAR FRIEND AND COMPANION: April 24th, 1842. The Abbess and Nuns of the Convent of the Encarnacion are now prepared to receive the visit of our three pilgrims, next Sunday, at half past four in the afternoon, and should that day not suit them, let them mention what day will be convenient. Afterwards we shall arrange their visit to the Concepcion, Enseñanza Antigua, and Jesus Maria, which 218 66 are the best, and I shall let you know, and we shall agree upon the days and hours most suitable. I remain your affectionate friend and Capellan, MANUEL POSADA. 27th. Accordingly, on Sunday afternoon, we drove to the Encarnacion, the most splendid and richest convent in Mexico, excepting perhaps la Concepcion. If it were in any other country, I might mention the surpassing beauty of the evening, but as except in the rainy season, which has not yet begun, the evenings are always beautiful, the weather leaves no room for description. The sky always blue, the air always soft, the flowers always blossoming, the birds always singing; Thomson never could have written his "Seasons" here. We descended at the convent gate, were admitted by the portress, and received by several nuns, their faces closely covered with a double crape veil. We were then led into a spacious hall, hung with handsome lustres, and adorned with various Virgins and Saints magnificently dressed; and here the eldest, a very dignified old lady, lifted her veil, the others following her example, and introduced herself as the Madre Vicaria; bringing us many excuses from the old Abbess, who having an inflammation in her eyes, was confined to her cell. She and another reverend mother, and a group of elderly dames, tall, thin and stately, then proceeded to inform us, that the Archbishop had, in person, given orders for our reception, and that they were prepared to show us the whole establishment. The dress is a long robe of very fine white casi NUNS AND NOVICES. 219 mere, a thick black crape veil, and long rosary. The dress of the novices is the same, only that the veil is white. For the first half hour or so, I fancied, that along with their politeness, was mingled a good deal of restraint, caused perhaps by the presence of a foreigner, and especially of an Englishwoman. My companions they knew well; the Señorita hav ing even passed some months there. However this may have been, the feeling seemed gradually to wear away. Kindness or curiosity triumphed ; their questions became unceasing; and before the visit was concluded, I was addressed as "mi vida" my life, by the whole establishment. Where was I born? Where had I lived? What convents had I seen? Which did I prefer, the convents in France, or those in Mexico? Which were largest ? Which had the best garden? &c., &c. Fortunately, I could, with truth, give the preference to their convent, as to spaciousness and magnificence, over any I ever saw. The Mexican style of building is peculiarly advantageous for recluses; the great galleries and courts affording them a constant supply of fresh air, while the fountains sound so cheerfully, and the garden in this climate of perpetual spring affords them such a constant source of enjoyment all the year round, that one pities their secluded state much less here than in any other country. This convent is in fact a palace. The garden, into which they led us first, is kept in good order, with its stone walks, stone benches, and an everplaying and sparkling fountain. The trees were bending with fruit, and they pulled quantities of the 220 CONVENT GARDEN. most beautiful flowers for us; sweet pease and roses, with which all gardens here abound, carnations, jasmine and heliotrope. It was a pretty picture to see them wandering about, or standing in groups in this high-walled garden, while the sun was setting behind the hills, and the noise of the city was completely excluded, everything breathing repose and content ment. Most of the halls in the convent are noble rooms. We visited the whole, from the refectory to the botica, and admired the extreme cleanness of everything, especially of the immense kitchen, which seems hallowed from the approach even of a particle of dust; this circumstance partly accounted for by the fact that each nun has a servant, and some have two; for this is not one of the strictest orders. The convent is rich; each novice at her entrance pays five thousand dollars into the common stock. There are about thirty nuns and ten novices. The prevailing sin in a convent generally seems to be pride; "The pride that apes humility;" and it is perhaps nearly inseparable from the conventual state. Set apart from the rest of the world, they, from their little world, are too apt to look down with contempt upon all who do not belong to their community, a contempt which may be mingled with envy, or modified by pity, but must be unsuited to a true Christian spirit. The novices were presented to us poor little entrapped things! who really believe they will be let CONVENT SUPPER. 221 out at the end of a year if they should grow tired, as if they would ever be permitted to grow tired! The two eldest and most reverend ladies are sisters, thin, tall and stately, with high noses, and remains of beauty. They have been in the convent since they were eight years old, (which is remarkable, as sisters are rarely allowed to profess in the same establishment,) and consider La Encarnacion as a small piece of heaven upon earth. There were some handsome faces amongst them, and one whose expression and eyes were singularly lovely, but truth to say, these were rather exceptions to the general rule. Having visited the whole building, and admired one virgin's blue satin and pearls, and another's black velvet and diamonds, sleeping holy infants, saints, paintings, shrines and confessionals, having even climbed up to the Azotea, which commands a magnificent view, we came at length to a large hall, decorated with paintings and furnished with antique high-backed arm-chairs, where a very elegant supper, lighted up and ornamented, greeted our astonished eyes; cakes, chocolate, ices, creams, custards, tarts, jellies, blancmangers, orange and lemonade, and other profane dainties, ornamented with gilt paper cut into little flags, &c. I was placed in a chair that might have served for a pope, under a holy family; the Señora and the Señorita either side. on The elder nuns in stately array, occupied the other arm-chairs, and looked like statues carved in stone. A young girl, a sort of pensionnaire, brought in a little harp without pedals, and while we discussed cakes and ices, sung different |